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The cold world of skimo & alpine climbing

The cold world of skimo & alpine climbing

Thursday, August 4, 2011

Salewa's new Pro Series Alpine climbing boots.....

This one looks pretty slick at first glance but so does the La Sportiva Batura, Zamberland's 4000 Eiger, the Kayland 6001 or the Scarpa Phanom Ultra and Phantom Guide.

But this boot does something no other boot to day will......look closer.

For those that read the blog on a regular basis it is obvious I am into the fit and the design concepts of mountain boots.  I had thought that I had either seen or dreamt about every boot technology currently possible.  Boy was I ever naive!   I have been pushing for and thinking about a concept boot with the ability to climb like say a Batura on mixed, a Spantik on ice and  ski as well as a TLT5 Perf. and be as warm as a new Scarpa 6000 dbl boot.  All while be lighter than any of them and have a lower foot profile   It is a tall order that I don't expect to see any time soon.  But you never know when you might be surprised by this industry!

One of the things I have long thought about and recently discussed with my podiatrist is the damage a soft cuffed and rigid soled mtn. boot does to your feet.  Having already climbed in that style boot for several decades I didn't see any options available and to be honest figured having a rigid sole was mandatory and if my feet suffered long term, so be it.  Just part of the price we pay.        

Then earlier this week I got a few pictures and a tease about the basic idea behind the newest Salewa Pro Series of boots.  

There are no samples available yet to play with but my take this far is. "very cool!"
Here is why.  A sole that you are suppose to be able to change the flex on?  Say what?  A boot you can use and walk with in comfort.  Virtually "flip a lever" and have a rigid boot sole for technical climbing, skiing or crampons and ice?  

It sounds like science fiction to be honest  and I can't read the printed pictured clearly so I am guessing on  most of this past what I have been told..  But the technology is simply amazing if it proves workable.  Imagine a boot you can easily do a long walking approach and then flip a lever and have a dead rigid boot sole for either a ice climb or a ski boot if that was required?

I'll reserve judgement until I get to use a pair.  But this is definitely technology I have never even  dreamed about.  May be you have.  Obviously some one has!  I am really looking forward to getting out to climb and walk in a pair.  

 Make sure to dbl click on all the photos for full effect.


The Pro Gaiter
This is a single boot with a built in gaiter like a Phantom Guide,  Kayland 6001 or the Batura.

Salewa claims this one as the "new bench mark for high level mountaineering and ice climbing".  Bold statement indeed.   I am looking forward to adding to that theory as a end user.  Unknown water proof breathable material in the gaiter, Thinsulate for insulation and a T-Zip.  It is a good start.

The Pro Guide

The Pro Guide should be very similar to the Nepal Evo or Mt Blanc.

If you are at OR, better stop by and look at this one today.  I'm impressed but let me know your thoughts on this one. 


Unknown said...

Those look great. I have a pair of their Mountain Trainer boots I have been really pleased with as a light approach shoe with ankle support.

I am curious though, since Salewa owns Dynafit and Dynafit has announced they are going to start selling a summer line how much overlap/uniqueness there will be in each line. And when will we see a Salewa climbing boot with tech fittings...

Daniel Harro said...

Great concept! How much weight does this add? Anything noticeable? Hoe don you activate the system? Looks like a slotted screwdriver?

Rafal said...


Just saw the boots at the show, and it seems like a great idea, with one caveat: in the "stiff" position, I can flex the boot just by leaning on it on the counter. None of my other mountain / ice boots do this... I'd say the lighter, non-gaitered version would be great for summer alpine: flexible for the approach, stiffer for climbing but, imo, ultimately not suitable for prolonged front-pointing.

Anonymous said...

Springy metal plate in the midsole is that Salewoodoo. When its "flat" the sole is flexible, when turned up, its stiff. You will need the driver or coin or axe/crampon/biner wiregate/jacket zipper/anything. MacGyver it :-)

Est weight 2080/8UK pair, should have wider (insulated they say) fit.
No pictures, sorry. Seen in their workbook for next summer

Dane said...

The reason I mentioned the new technology is it shows what is/can be possible. Even the simple stuff like boot fit generally goes through several generations of developoment before it is truely useful.

Bravo to Salewa for making the first inroads.

Damo said...


The stiffness adjustment is a cool move. I'd wondered about something similar after seeing the failed Grivel GSB crampon attachement - ie. some kind of removable steel/CF strip as a shank that slotted in the front or back. This looks neater, if it works.

Back awhile I posted on one of the forums about how many of the boots sold, esp the Hi Alti ones, are not used for any tech climbing and don't really need to be that rigid. Most of the climbing is walking. Flexier boots would be comfier and warmer and less tiring, and fine for French tech etc.

Neil said...

Hello Dane.

I'm not sure if you need to know of yet another mountain boot, but in the interests of embracing-the-all have you seen these boots from Boreal?

Also, check out their double versions under the mountain section.

Didn't really know where to post this, hope here is all right.

I was so very sorry to hear your news, I wish you well and a speedy recovery. Take care now.


Dane said...

Boreal makes some brilliant products, Thanks for adding them here.