The shell game? But in this case we are discussing insulation.

PrimaLoft One insulation has been exceptional.  But as I have pointed out in previous writings there are differences in the  other PrimaLoft insulation values of the differing products.  And a wide difference on price as well. Enough so that I typically wouldn't buy anything but PrimaLoft One.

Here are the old definitions:

	PrimaLoft® The human body uses energy to keep warm PrimaLoft uses a patented microfiber structure to help the body retain warmth and conserve energy. PrimaLoft is as warm as down, compressible, breathable and offers superior water repellency so you remain dry, warm and comfortable even under the most extreme conditions. These performance qualities and technical benefits make PrimaLOft the thermal insulation of choice for outerwear and sleeping bags. Wash/Care Instructions: Machine wash and rinse in cold water, gentle cycle. Tumble dry warm, remove promptly. Do not dry clean, bleach, iron or steam.	Please keep orders to 1/8 yd increments. Minimum order is 1/2 yd. 1/8 = 0.125 1/4 = 0.25 3/8 = 0.375 1/2 = 0.5 5/8 = 0.625 3/4 = 0.75 7/8 = 0.875
PrimaLoft One	PrimaLoft® One Comprised of 100% specially treated polyester micro-fibers (1 denier or less). Has the highest col value per weight of all PrimaLoft insulations at 0.084. It has softest hand and is the most compressible of all PrimaLoft insulations and abosorbs 3 times less water, and is 24% warmer than the closest competitive insulation. Available in two weights: 3 oz and 5 oz. Width: 60"  3 oz Price: $11.95/yd 5 oz Price: $16.95/yd   Type   One Sport Weight   3 oz 5 oz
PrimaLoft Sport	PrimaLoft® Sport Comprised of 100% polyester blend micro-fibers (1 denier or less) and fine fibers (>1 denier). Has increased durability and loft due to blend of both micro and fine fibers, along with a little more binder. Col value by wieght is 0.074. Gram for gram PrimaLoft Sport is warmer than any other competitive continuous filament or thin insulation. Available in two weights: 3 oz and 5 oz Width: 60"  3 oz Price: $9.95/yd 5 oz Price: $14.95/yd

Here are the newest insulations:

PrimaLoft®
Gold Insulation

The benchmark in performance of all synthetic insulations

PrimaLoft® Gold Insulation

PrimaLoft® Gold Insulation Down Blend

PrimaLoft® Gold Insulation USA

PrimaLoft® Gold Insulation Eco

PrimaLoft® Gold Insulation Eco with Grip Control     

PRIMALOFT® Silver Insulation A high-performance insulation with the full spectrum of features to brave the elements

PrimaLoft® Silver Insulation

PrimaLoft® Silver Insulation Eco

PrimaLoft® Silver Insulation Down Blend

PrimaLoft® Silver Insulation Hi-Loft

PrimaLoft® Silver Insulation with 4Flex

PrimaLoft® Silver Insulation USA

PrimaLoft® Silver Insulation Performance Fleece 

PrimaLoft®
Black Insulation Eco

Warmth, softness and lightweight comfort from post-consumer recycled materials       

PrimaLoft® Black Insulation Eco

PrimaLoft® Black Insulation Hi-Loft

Significant to me is:

Gone is the info to make realistic comparisons of insulation to weight per cost.      

"Primaloft GOLD is widely considered to be the industry best when it comes to synthetic insulation and the standard in terms of warmth-to-weight ratio. Previously known as PrimaLoft ONE, it is made with extremely thin individual fibers and provides insulation by capturing body heat in the countless tiny air pockets that exist between these fibers. The thinness of the fibers allows not only for more trapped air in a given amount of insulation, but also allows for relatively good compressibility.

Primaloft SILVER Hi-Loft, seen in the Patagonia DAS Parka, is a continuous filament insulation made with fibers of differing thicknesses. Primaloft calls this their loftiest insulation. This insulation is less compressible overall, but more durable in the long run.

Coreloft, Arc'teryx's proprietary insulation, is made of many short, thin fibers, and is used in the Arc'teryx Atom LT Hoody and Arc'teryx Atom AR Hoody. It is very warm, but not quite as warm as PrimaLoft GOLD.

ThermaTek, another proprietary Arc'teryx insulation, is a continuous filament insulation used in some of Arc'teryx's high end products like the Arc'teryx Fission SL, which is more like an insulated ski jacket. Arc'teryx claims it to be warmer relative to weight than Coreloft, but it isn't as compressible.

Exceloft is a proprietary fiber insulation used by Montbell. It uses a combination of thick and thin hollow polyester fibers. We found the Montbell UL Thermawrap Jacket warm for its weight. However, it is difficult to compare Exceloft's warmth directly to Primaloft GOLD because the Thermawrap uses 50g/m2 Exceloft insulation, while the Primaloft GOLD used in test models is 60g/m2.

Thermal.Q Elite, a new proprietary insulation from Mountain Hardwear, uses a combination of thicker, longer fibers to form a framework, and short, thinner fibers to fill the gaps in between. Mountain Hardwear claims both better warmth and compressibility for this insulation. Again, it is difficult to compare its warmth directly to Primaloft 60g/m2, as the two products we tested, the Mountain Hardwear Hooded Compressor uses 100g/m2 Thermal.Q Elite. "

Quote above is from this review:

http://www.outdoorgearlab.com/Insulated-Jacket-Reviews/Buying-Advice

I also found this while looking...

"PrimaLoft® GOLD
PrimaLoft® Gold Insulation – the highest performing synthetic insulation available. The ultimate in warmth-to-weight available in a synthetic is coupled with incredible packability and softness that mimics goose down, all with excellent water-repellency for wet-weather protection.
PrimaLoft® SILVER
PrimaLoft® Silver Insulation utilizes a proprietary water repellent finish to keep you warm when wet. A comfortable loft and feel provides warmth, while super-lightweight properties allow freedom of movement for whatever your day may deliver."

I am not in the market for a synthetic jacket but you might be.

These are the last "real" numbers I can dig up.  When I started dissing Sport and Eco for my own climbing it seems names and info  changed or became exceptional hard to find.  I find that odd.

PrimaLoft's own published data comparing Primaloft One, Sport and Eco below which has been deleted from their web site:

Primaloft One: 0.92 dry / 0.90 wet, clo/oz
Primaloft Sport: 0.79 dry /.72 wet, clo/oz
Primaloft Eco: 0.68 dry/ 0.60 wet, clo/oz

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2012/11/primaloft.html

SKi Mo update..

Stolen from an email this morning but good overall view I think..


http://skimo.co/

La Sportiva's newest double boot..

This is a boot I advocated for  the last couple of years at La Sportiva NA.  Seemed obvious to me.

@ a list price of $790. retail

.

Cancelar respuestaG2 enhances the La Sportiva high mountain boot line from the 8000m Olympus and 4000m Batura.  The G2 is intended for  mountaineering at 6000 and 7000 metres.

Scarpa moves on...new 6000 and 8000.

 

Thanks for the heads up James!

Be kind...

"Be kind to everyone you meet,  because we all fight an unseen battle for life."

https://vimeo.com/outdoorresearch/dorais

2nd Chance?

 

 

Dare to live the life you dream, not the life you think you must. Seldom will you get a second chance.....

Force..the story of Mikely Schaefer

Time..

Some lessons here..on avalanche rescue

And the back story of the accident.

http://avalanchesurvival.tumblr.com/

Thanks DZ and JJ for the links.

The Grand Teton...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eka5SzZITaY&feature=youtu.be

Teton Ice...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E0uMK4S58Ng&feature=youtu.be

Praxis Freeride ski

 

Caution:  If you aren't into geeking out on gear and big mountain skis in particular skip this one.
Next write up will be some "new" ice climbing gear I am using this trip.  So more to come.

"a little bit scary"

http://youtu.be/0iI0RI5hjWU

"https://www.youtube.com/embed/0iI0RI5hjWU"

http://youtu.be/OYlbPNRDOXQ

"https://www.youtube.com/embed/OYlbPNRDOXQ"

and a little Chamonix skimo

more ice in the Alps..

Careful what you ask for on Tech bindings!

Bend, break or drop?


"If you’re not getting accidental releases (pre- release) you are way ahead of the game on any binding, provided you’re the type of skier who seldom falls. Nonetheless, main thing is if you _can_ ski the binding unlocked, at reasonable settings, so you might get at least a smidge of leg bone and knee protection out of the deal."  Lou Dawson @ WildSnow

DPS 99 Tour vs Dynafit Denali..

DPS 99 Tour and the Dynafit Denali numbers and hand flex comparison...

This seems like it should be an obvious comparison.
I'm really interested in seeing what the "new guys", aka DPS, knows about real touring skis.  The same place Dynafit has a well established and exceptionally well respected entire line of skis.  I have owned 6 pair of DPS.  None I would call "touring skis".  But I also know others that do make that claim for their own DPS skis and use them as such all winter and spring.

Not for everyone...

But life continues to get better in the mtns.

A solid performance combo in any soft snow condition:
Dynafit Huascaran, 177cm, 112mm under foot.  Speed Superlight binding.  8# 12.5oz
Dynafit TLT6 size 28, 6# .5oz

Total 14# 13oz

Much of the PNW sucks for snow right now...

Last year I started skiing in the PNW in late October.  Not unusual for us.  This year it has been better bike weather than ski weather.  At 1:30am it is in the 50F out side my office.  Likely to set a new high record in the high 50s or low 60s in Seattle over he weekend.  Ouch!

Chamonix seems to be doing only marginally better!

But I've been playing with 4 tech bindings combos that are new to me.   Needed some additional info on one set up and found this...

http://skimo.co/tech-binding-heel-gaps

How can you not smile?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZOScetWwEwc

Fear?

Yep, there ya go..."I FEAR crevasses".  Not the little ones, mind you that anyone spending time on a glacier commonly sees or better yet never sees as you whizz by on skis.

One of those days? Really?

Enjoy this one...skiing only and  @ the lifts but likely worth a look :-)

wow!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=is5qkedjBY0#t=248





https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mo7I_V_Szpg

And the winter starts.....Avalanche!

Foglietta Avalanche Burial -Jan 2015

 http://biglines.com/locations/europe/avalancheburial/

Summary
6 people in the group; 5 people taken in the avalanche; 3 partially buried, 2 totally buried (under approx 30 cm); Avalanche released when the 5th person was skiing. 3 people injured needing medical attention e.g. broken bones and torn ligaments; 1 person spent 4 days in the hospital.

Neve!

For most in NA we seldom if ever see real Neve.  It is a thing of joy when found in abundance.   No screws of course but amazing sticks and easy on the calves.  The squeak of "some fun!"

Modern Skimo a its Finest

Petzl Nomic tools and Dynafit PDG super lwt skimo boots.   Cutting edge for this game currently.

Face Nord des Grandes Jorasses, Pointe Young

The Chamonix experience...

"Buy the Fucking Ticket!"

There have been a rash of new mountaineering books coming from Patagonia publishing....and Chamonix photographers recently. (Take a look @ Alpine Exposures)  Haven't seen or read them all but had some time to read again this week.  And found a treasure here!

The name Kelly Cordes is likely known for hard climbing, margaritas and his writing. 

Cordes' most recent "The Tower" showed up the other day.   Being the critical literary scholar that I am, (huge roll of eyes here) of course I looked at the nice color photos first.  Then I got sucked into a  chapter that caught my eye.  An hour later I was hooked, rope, tools, pack  and tent.  That surprised me!   It is not often I get caught up in or even simply interested by a climbing story these days.

I grew up reading Messner's work, stories of Maestri, Mountain Magazine and having over the years met many of the characters in this book.  Generally I detest books where I actually know the climbers being discussed or quoted.  And to be honest never really enjoyed much of Cordes' previous writings.
I really enjoyed the skill and diplomicy that Cordes showed writing "The Tower". I've got a fairly extensive mountaineering library.  "The Tower" is not only a great historical perspective on Patagonia but a wonderful read on the current climbing environment and excitement there as well.

Going to Patagonia? Gone there in the past?  Or just interested in the history of Patagonia and the climbing there?

"The Tower" by Kelly Cordes is one, if not the best modern mountaineering book I've had the pleasure to read in a long time.  Careful though.  This is a book that is not easy to sit down.  Sad part is, the book does has an ending. 

A great read is truly a treasure.  Gotta say thanks to the author for this one!

 
"The Tower"
By Kelly Cordes
Patagonia Books
http://www.amazon.com/The-Tower-Chronicle-Climbing-Controversy/dp/1938340337
 

Nolan's?

It doesn't take a lot of imagination to make an epic adventure.  Every place I have lived or just visited has it's own local "Nolan's".   I suspect there is always one "there" to fit your imagination and abilities no matter what your sport or current skill level.  Ya just gotta look.   Just takes the imagination and courage to get on them!  Finishing is always optional...showing up is the firststep and often the most difficult.

    Nolan's">http://vimeo.com/112023687">Nolan's 14 - Trailer
from Pheonix">http://vimeo.com/user30116641">Pheonix and Ash Productions on Vimeo.https://vimeo.com">Vimeo.>

27,375

"That is the average lifespan in the United States today: 27,375 days.  If you are typical, that is what was deposited in your “time bank” when you were born.  Every day, whether or not you want to, you make a withdrawal of 1 day.  When the days run out, you die.  Game over. "

Reflect on that fact when you watch this:

3456">http://vimeo.com/113313108">3456 feet
from Ride">http://vimeo.com/ridegreener">Ride Greener on Vimeo.https://vimeo.com">Vimeo.>

Learning to ride or ski takes a LOT longer when you decide to hike every hill. Fight every battle? Right every wrong?  Not that we shouldn't try mind you.   Life is if anything the ability to  more fully understand your desires and goals.  Harder yet knowing how to balance and accommodate them responsibly into the world around you.   In the end you get 27,375 days.  1500 on either end you'll be lucky if you are conscious enough to actually enjoy ;-)

525,600 minutes...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hj7LRuusFqo

Call it 26,000 even.  What will you do with yours?

BD Stainless again....BD recall of the Whippet stainless ski pole

Black Diamond Equipment Recalls Whippet Ski Poles Due to Risk of Injury

http://tetonsandwasatch.com/2014/black-diamond-whippet-ski-pole-defect/

Recall Details
Units: About 3,000.
Description: This recall includes Black Diamond Whippet and Whippet Carbon ski poles manufactured May 2013 through January 2014.
The Whippet is gray with two telescoping shafts and the Carbon Whippet is black with three telescoping shafts.
The upper shaft of both models is made of aluminum and has a black and orange rubber handgrip with a built-in, stainless steel, serrated pick and a black nylon wrist strap with a an orange Black Diamond logo.

http://blackdiamondequipment.com/en/whippet-recall.html

It is a commercial ad but I liked it....

Patagonia as a clan, and corporate culture does a lot of neat stuff.  The ad aside, I liked this for several reasons.

Skimo boot comparison, Scarpa Alien 1, Dynafit PDG and TLT 6 P.

 

One likely has to ask.."why start with this photo?" 

 

I have thought long and hard on how to do this review.    For some rappelling on skis is going to seem pretty extreme.  For others?  They would be skiing here unfazed, where I was really happy to have a rope for a pitch or two.

Patagonia Nano-Air and Arcteryx Atom Lt comparison?

Colin Haley on the Midi.  photo courtesy of Mikey Schaefer

I've had more questions about the new Nano-Air from Patagonia than any other specific piece of gear this Fall.  Obviously the Patagonia Marketing & PR department is doing its job!

Every email asked the same question..."how do the two compare?  "How about a Nano-Air in a straight up comparison to a Atom LT?"

The PP, April '14

 

More info for those that have asked?

video of the gully filmed the same month
                                                  
http://vimeo.com/89836263

and prior to that

http://chamconditions.blogspot.fr/2011/04/profit-perroux-aiguille-du-midi.html

same line...with more ice a few years previous

http://www.alpineexposures.com/pages/goulotte-profit-perroux-photo-trip-report

comparison and topo

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2014/04/ok-that-was-fun-now-back-to-climbing.html

Welcome to the PNW!

This was filmed in an amazing storm cycle from last winter @ Baker.  We got something like 10 feet of snow locally in 7 days.  Baker got more!  It was pretty good skiing that week ;-)

The end result and rain that followed gave us  avi conditions that took down one of Crystal chair lifts.


The">http://vimeo.com/111243317">The Shadow Campaign // Whitewash
from DPS">http://vimeo.com/dpsskis">DPS SKIS on Vimeo.https://vimeo.com">Vimeo.>

BIG skiing! and Jérémie Heitz

Jérémie">http://vimeo.com/105151757">Jérémie Heitz | Swiss skier
from Jérémie">http://vimeo.com/user14006594">Jérémie Heitz on Vimeo.https://vimeo.com">Vimeo.>
http://vimeo.com/105151757

Nut Cracker on Winter Dance...

http://youtu.be/xOm6Nktxof4

Thalay Sagar

Skiing "out there!"

Polar">http://vimeo.com/42909836">Polar Star Couloir -- Possibly a Dream
from Joshua">http://vimeo.com/alpinesummits">Joshua Lavigne on Vimeo.https://vimeo.com">Vimeo.>

Dynafit Denali?

This ski review thing is kinda fun and deceptive all at the same time.  I had a new friend ask me this summer, "how can you do a legitimate ski review on the conditions we were skiing as compared to our typical  snow?" 

My answer was, "it is all snow, ya turn left and ya turn right".  That and the fact is I have no interest in skiing on or writing a review from what I would consider "typical snow".

I ski a lot in a maritime snow pack in the Cascades.  But also ski in the Western States interior and the Alps.  I use my skis as tools.  And I have gotten more and more picky on the skis I like and want to spend time on.  I've become more educated about what a ski is capable of and more importantly what I am capable or...or not as a skier.

The picture above is the current crop of what I wanted to ski on this winter.  Everything there is just a slight variation of what I have been skiing on for the past 3 or 4 seasons.

I have had few duplicates of my ski choices.  The first ski that fit that category was the Huascaran.  A mistake on my part as the 196cm ski was not the 177cm ski.  Would seem obvious at first glance but it wasn't to me.   The next time I bought two different sizes of the same ski was with the Cho Oyu.  I used and really liked both sizes of the Cho Oyu.

I picked the short pair of Cho Oyu as one of 4 pair last winter to take to France.  And to be honest, it was pure luck on part to have that specific pair of  Cho.  It was the ski that really saved my ski season there.  Out of the 4 pair of skis along on that trip, for various reasons, I ended up using the Cho Oyu more than any other ski.  From steep skiing (well steep for me anyway) to the Haute Route.  I was impressed with the Cho.  It is a good ski for my own use.

Here are a couple of previous comments on the Cho:

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2013/06/dynafits-cho-oyu-and-nanga-parbat-for.html

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2013/12/it-is-back-in-my-quiver-dynafit-cho-oyu.html

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2014/01/dynafit-cho-oyu-ski-mini-review-again.html

As much as I liked the Cho there were a few things lacking for my own unreserved use.  But I certainly wasn't going to complain because I've had some of my best skiing ever on a Cho Oyu...literally.  By the end of last season I was using the Cho every where without reservation.

Of that new rack pictured above, 4 of the skis there are specific picks to better the performance of the Cho in certain conditions.  Mind you the conditions I am thinking of are pretty harsh.  Which are bad snow, hard base underneath and the results of a fall likely fatal.

The few times I skied that kind of terrain last winter, all on a short Cho Oyu, I wished for a more stable ski.  But I wasn't willing to ditch the super light weight ski and race bindings to get there either.  Instead I tried to adapt my own skiing to the gear as best I could.  97% of the time I simply enjoyed the ski.

Knowing I would be on more, similar terrain this coming winter I wanted to hedge my bets.
So I bought two pair of lwt custom Praxis skis that Keith made up for me @ 9d8 and 110mm.  And two pair of Dynafit skimo boards. (Dynafit's Manaslu and 7-Summit to be reviewed later)   All with the idea of more ski than the Cho was capable of because of the lwt construction.

The two Dynafit Denalis in the above picture were an after thought really.  Unknowingly I figured it would simply be a heavier version of the Cho Oyu with the added width @ 98mm under foot..instead of 88mm.    How bad could it be?

Turns out not bad at all!

Before I start here.  I am making the comparisons of the Cho to Denali because I thought the Cho Oyu was a stellar ski for my own use.  The direct comparison of the specs of the Denali to the Cho should tell you how much I already respect the Denali's performance to date.  I wasn't kidding when I said, "I've had some of my best skiing ever on a Cho Oyu."

Here is the comparison.

Up front, my actual ski's weights:

the 176cm Denali  1247g per ski @ 98mm under foot
the 174cm Cho Oyu 1210g per ski @ 88mm under foot

Less than 3oz per pair heavier and a longer ski with the Denali.
Bonus to the Denali there IMO.

Cho Oyu
Dimensions   125-88-111 [174]
turn radius      16-12-15m [174]
410-430mm tip rocker, 160mm tail rocker

Denali
Dimensions   131-98-116 [176]
turn radius        22.0/21.0 [176]
430mm tip rocker, camber, 200mm tail rocker

What all that means to me is a more stable, less hooky ski on nasty conditions.  Not that I consider the Cho hooky, it isn't.  But I did ski some of the worst wind pack, wind and rain breakable crust and ice conditions on the Denali that I have ever skied.   Few, if any skis would have made those conditions enjoyable. Not enjoyable snow conditions by any means but the Denali ended up being a solid choice for me.  I was able to stay up right the majority of time when my partners weren't always so fortunate on lesser skis.   I'm convinced it was advanced ski technology that was unable to cope with the ever changing and generally terrible conditions more than it was my skiing ability.

Not that I was rocking every turn/run by comparison either mind you.  But I was getting down in one piece on the Denali and happy with the ski.  More so than I thought I might/should be.  I also brought a 2nd pair of very solid all terrain skis on that trip, but never ended up using them.  Funny as I wasn't even tempted to take them out of the ski bag.  Says a lot on just how good the Denali was in the variable conditions we had.

One of the places I thought the Cho really shined last year was our early hard snow conditions here in the PNW.  The Cho skied exceptionally well on those perfectly groomed but pretty hard snow conditions we had in late December and early January here in the PNW.  Turns out I got a day or two on similar conditions during the Austral winter.  And while it was obvious some of my ski partners really wanted to see if I could actually ski the Denali, even my 176cm version was up to almost anything a big free style ski was capable of on hard pack.  Where the Cho would have been done on groomers, the Denali even in a short 176cm was still cruising like a champ.  That surprised me.  As did the Denali's performance on ice worthy of crampons.  The kind of ice you generally only see in the mountains above 10 or 12K feet.

Breakable crust that I would have preferred a DPS Spoon on, or at least 115mm under foot,  the Denali skied with little effort.  Wasn't the ski in the way, that is for sure.  More my lack of technique.

I have some bigger, lwt, wood core ski to fill in the gaps on the nasty snow of any steep French gullies this winter.  Only time on those new boards will tell me which of those skis will better the Denali.  But at least for me the Denali to date have been better than the Cho in hard conditions.  And the Cho was a proven bench mark as a lwt ski for me last winter.

I bought both the 176cm ski which I have skied on and the 184cm Denali hoping I can take advantage of both sizes.

The video from last Spring shows a place I was wanting more ski than the Cho.  The Denali might be just enough more ski for some added some security there..that day..those conditions.   Make no mistake these are wider versions of really good skimo boards.  They aren't the typical touring skis or the typical soft snow ski.  They are true mountaineering skis.  The Cho is a well proven version of that definition even while being just one year old.  From my little time on the Denali I think it is a even more mature version of that tool.   With race bindings on them I hope to prove that statement to myself over and over again this winter.

https://www.dropbox.com/sc/cbvrvkxdh31a73m/meASDDzPax?n=5289956#lh:9-2014-04-26%2007.42.25.mov

Some are sure to ask..as I did.  How about a comparison to the La Sportiva Nano?  To start with $300 to $500 more @ retail.  Ouch!  I have not skied the Vapor yet.  But the comparisons on soft snow between the Denali and the Vapor, from those I trust, have been very favorable.

But money no object?  Ya gotta wonder right?
It is a very modern 5 point ski.  Some advantages there.

General consensus from those that I know that have skied both:
"Mind blowing weight for a powder plank!"

1180g [172cm] for one ski
129-103-120 [172]
19m [172]
Generous tip rocker, camber underfoot, gentle tail rocker

For everything skimo related look here:
http://skimo.co/

Newest Trango Raptor...ice tool

I've always had high hopes for this tool.  Great retail price point to start with, @ $175.00 per tool.  Now with a ice specific pick and a more comfortable handle.  It was good as a Gen 1 version.  Suspect the Gen 2 version of the Raptor will be even better for my own use.    I know just by looking at the new handle (less spike more open finger hook)  the ease of rotation will be improved significantly.

I'm looking forward to using them and then writing a full review.

 

A few years ago on the original version @ the Weeping Wall.

1st generation Raptor

No smoke and mirrors here, but real design changes coming from climbers using the tools not the marketing department.

It is time........

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ISagf2eCzKg

Avalanches Claim Lives of J.P. Auclair, Andreas Fransson, and Liz Daley

A sad day indeed. 






http://youtu.be/LrbSKF5zxvI

details here:
http://www.tetongravity.com/story/ski/j.p.-auclair-and-andreas-fransson-confirmed-dead-in-chilean-avalanche

Fall yard sale...

All five ski for sale are pictured on the left side of this picture..

Part of last year's bumper crop.  Time for me to pull the bindings, change boots and move on...

Skis only, no bindings.

All are in exceptionally good condition tops and bottoms.  One mount with Dynafit Radicals on the Protest, and Huascaran.  Speed Superlight were mounted on the 182 GPO.  Radicals and then Rossi Axial 2 on the 192 GPO.  There are no lemons here.

Add actual shipping costs via US mail to any of these skis or boots.  US sales only.   Pay Pal preferred.

Praxis Custom ordered ski:

Carbon GPO, sunset top sheet, 192cm.  Twice mounted with Speed Radical to a TLT6 29,  and recently with a Rossignol Axis 2,  $300.

Dynafit

Hauscaran, 192cm.  Once mounted with Speed Super Light to a TLT6 29,  $300.

La Sportiva


Hang5,  178cm, Once mounted with Speed Radical to a TLT6 29,  $300.

Ya, that was a bad idea...

Not cleaning a binding and boot I suspect ended in this rather spectacular, dangerous and likely totally unnecessary fall.

 

 

Season after season I see the same things happen while skiing with my groups.  Silly little mistakes that lift skiers seldom if ever worry about.  The one in particular that drives me crazy is popping a binding off on the first turn.  It is a Rookie mistake.   And easily avoidable if you are informed,  experienced or simply willing to pay attention. 

 

Doesn't matter if the walk is across the parking lot or a 1000 meter boot pack, the process of getting into your bindings should always be the same.  Clean off both boot and binding.  Better yet have a partner help you with it as required.  Trust your ski partners to help you do it right.  If you are using a tech binding the problem is worse than a alpine binding.  But neither binding style is immune to the effect of having foreign material, dirt, rocks or simply snow and ice in the binding or on the boot proper.

 

Ski bindings are not made to work with foreign material of any sort between boot and binding.  Get it wrong and the binding simple will not stay on.

 

 

This is a classic situation where you have to pay attention and cleaning your off boots.  Better yet, think of where you'll be putting on your skis and the platform required to do it all safely not just for you but for everyone in your group.

 

 

 

Don't let the terrain fool you.  Snow and ice can be just as bad as dirt and rocks when it comes to eliminating the security of a good ski binding.  Alpine ridge boot pack or a set of steel stairs.  The attention you pay on cleaning your boots and bindings should not change.

Experience tells  me most will have the ski skills for this this long before they have the courage.  And for good reason.

In my experience most will have the ski skills to ski difficult terrain long before they have the fundamental knowledge of how to do it safely.

 

 

Blowing out of the binding on the first turn is your, your partner's and your guide's fault.  Everyone is responsible for each other.  Do that in difficult terrain or a no fall zone and the  risks go up accordingly.  Like a bullet sent down range with the pull of a trigger, there are no "overs".  You don't get to call a mistake back in the mountains and wish it weren't so.  You live or die by your mistakes.

 

With tech bindings work your toe levers every time you click in to clean your pin holes.  Don't let the peer pressure of the group skiing off on step in alpine bindings rush you.  Pay attention to your own mounting platforms while attempting to get your skis on.  Be sure you are capable of cleaning your boots, clicking in and NOT loosing a ski all at the same time.

 

Listen to your own intuition.  If you think some of your partners decisions are questionable...they more than likely, are.  Do what you need to do, to be safe.  Be well aware of the consquences of your actions and that of your partners.

 

And finally....ski the conservative line and in a conservative manner in the back country.  Or at the very least think about how hard it would be and how long it would take to get the biggest bozo in your group off the mountain and back to medical care if they missed the next huck and things went terribly wrong.  Can you solve that problem alone if it goes bad?  Or are you relying on others to prop your sorry ass up and get you out?   

 

That doesn't mean missing all the fun.  What is does mean is thinking about the result a nasty fall could mean. 

 

If you have no clue...and nothing wrong with that, ask questions.  Everyone started this stuff at the beginning of the book.  If you need the Cliffs notes versions, listen to those that do have a clue and then act accordingly.  It aint rocket science.  It is easy to be a quick study.

 

If you are skiing with a partner you owe them thinking ahead, for everyone's peace of mind and ultimately everyone's safety.

 

 Hopefully this is a better explanation.  Look closely at the photo then dbl click.   Guide is high right on the slope in a yellow jacket.  He is hiking to retrieve the first lost ski.  You can see it just left of the little snow ledge on the rock cliff.  A second ski is below him stuck in the snow left of another rock.  At the end of the slope, his client, in blue, recovering from what I'd suppose mentally at least (she was unhurt thankfully despite all the rocks on this slope) was a fairly traumatic fall.

 

 

Time Travel? A chance to experience it...

"Hey all!
   Just trying to promote Simon McCartney's slide show at Neptune's, Thursday,September 4. It's absolutely free, and you can bring alcohol! I think it starts at 8:00...guess I should have double-checked! But I KNOW that all of you will LOVE this show (I think, anyway!). Just a bit of backstory, just in case. Simon and Jack (Roberts) climbed the North Face of Mt. Huntington (in Alaska) in 1978, and then the Southwest Face of Denali in 1980. Both of those climbs were ground-breaking for their times, and to my knowledge, have yet to be repeated in their entirety. BFD. After the epic on Denali, Simon withdrew altogether from climbing, completely and totally. He and Jack saw each other that next summer, but never again, nor did they ever have contact again. Jack used to "look" for Simon for years, but finally gave up. But Jack talked to me a LOT about Simon, the climbs, etc, so I kind of felt like I knew him. He so wanted to see Simon again. Years passed, Jack died. I was on Camino in Spain when I received an email message, "Simon McCartney looking for Pam Roberts." Long story short, Simon had finally decided to come out of hiding from the climbing world, and tried to contact Jack. Found out he had died, found out he had a widow, and set about
trying to find me. We connected....he wanted to write a book about their climbs. I have all of Jack's journals from those climbs, and the photos. In the ensuing 2 years, Simon has written a book(unpublished as of yet) of these 2 climbs with the help of Jack's journals and photos, and we have become friends. He's been wanting to come to the States to reconnect with various people from that time period, and so part of that time will be here in Boulder. He's really excited, and excited to give a show. This is a big deal for him, and I have to say, it would be the most significant thing for Jack, were he still alive, so it's a very big deal for me. I'm just "tagging" you all because you are friends, because you "get" climbing, and you knew Jack.........so come if you can! It will be a never before seen experience...not even Jack got to see this! Invite anyone you want........I'd love to see a full house!
   anyway..........
cheers,
pam (Roberts) "

Dynafit bindings ramp?...if you are on them think about this...

 

Next time you buy or snap into your Dynafit bindings.

Or the next time anyone wants to tell you ramp angle isn't a problem on b/c ski bindings.

The difference between a Dynafit rental heel and a Dynafit Speed Super Light heel is 21mm.  Or just over 3/4",    .789" or there abouts.

Then think about just how well you would ski if you stuck a 3/4" lift under your heel.   Sure you can shim the toes as Dynafit does with their spacer or use one of the B&D versions.

Or you could actually use a combo of toe and heel that has the least amount of ramp from the get go.

 

My suggestion? ZERO ramp.

 

 

EDIT:

Some asked so here ya go guys.

A couple of Dynafit combos I am currently using that I really like.  Not easily put together here in the States but easy enough else where or if you travel/go on the Internet early season.  Either system is easy to use, super strong in any alpine situation you'd use a touring boot and most importantly to me, proven reliability. 

I'd bet these guys would be happy to put it together for you given some notice.  Tell them I sent ya :)

http://skimo.co/

http://skimo.co/bindings

These combos give you +4mm to a -1 depending on adjustment plate or toe shim used.

Speed Superlight toe, no shim and a race heel (-/+ 0)
Speed Super light toe, no shim and a adjustment plate w/race heel (+4.5mm)
Speed Radical toe, 6.5mm factory toe shim and Superlight heel (-1mm) (toe is hell for stout)
Speed Radical toe, 6.5mm shim and Superlight heel with adjustment plate (+4mm)

Even the worst of the combos above is a full 9+mm less ramp than a current Speed Radical.

Once you have skied @ -0- it is really unappealing to go past even 3 or 4mm.   And that isn't even taking into account stack height on the bigger ramp angles and the traditional shim fit to get closer to a -0- ramp.  All of which I find almost as annoying but in a different way.

My go to binding set up for most skiing of any sort is a race heel and toe.  No shims.  But if you want a adjustable heel and low ramp, use the Dynafit Speed Superlight heel with track, and add the factory 6.5mm toe shim to what ever toe you use.  Cut the top clip off for the race toes to fit.  Works perfect.

I unintentionally skied a good part of my season last year on the Race binding and the back adjustment track ending up with 4.5mm of ramp.  While I would have preferred -0- ramp the 4mm wasn't annoying.

As Linnaeus noted boot board ramp angle and boot forward lean is also an import factor here.  The most modern boots I think will perform better and you as a skier with less binding ramp angle.  Pretty common stuff in the alpine world.   The BC boot and binding makers have different priorities.  My take on that is it isn't helping anyone to ski better to use more ramp angle on their bindings.  Good skiers can work around a lot.  Others not so much.

More here on ramp angles of Dynafit bindings:
http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2014/01/tech-bindings-aka-dynafit-bindings-part.html

Speed Radical toe, 6.5mm shim and Superlight heel with adjustment plate (+4mm of ramp total)   Not a heavy binding set up by any means but not a super light either.  Just a STOUT binding system by my standards with as much ramp angle (4 or  5mm of +) I am willing to use on a daily basis.

Thalay Sagar....

Damn it!

DamNation">http://vimeo.com/89928979">DamNation - Trailer
from Patagoniahttp://vimeo.com/patagoniavideo">Patagonia> on Vimeo.https://vimeo.com">Vimeo.>

Old school, New school....lost and found?

Hess and Deborah from the North.

In the late spring of 1976, I and 3 others did out first Alaska trip.  Not flying into KIA but going farther north into what was then a little visited area.  David Roberts, Don Jensen had come before us as had others we didn't know and hadn't read about.  For us it was a good adventure

The tail of two tips....Dynafit's carbon, Nanga Parbat, Cho Oyu and Denali

Whole lot of Dynafit love happening on the Haute Route!

I am a big fan of the Dyanfit's newest Nanga Parbat, Cho Oyu.  And I suspect the Denali will be just as good or better of a ski if you need the extra width.   But!   And it isn't a big BUTT... more like a irritating PIA.  One that should have been caught a long time ago by the designers and Dynafit testers.   There is this one small problem.

The tip on these skis suck.  Yes the new tip design takes Dynafit's excellent skins well.  And no. my bitch isn't a square tip thing.  Although one has to wonder why a square tip other than to cut weight or more than likely just to be different..

What is annoying is a little sharp edged bump where the ski's edge and the ski/skin  tip insert meet.

 

If you double click on the photo above and look at the left edge of the ski where the edge and tip meet you'll notice a little indent and the resulting bump where they meet just short of the ski's edge end.

Seems trivial when you look at it.  But for me it isn't trivial.  It is really annoying.

Light weight clothing...ski touring specific.

The morning this picture was taken coming out of the Vignette hut it was cold and windy.  To be honest I don't think any of us thought we would really be skiing into Zermatt later that day.  Weather was coming in, it was cold and all of us were tired from the last 5 days of skiing.

 

Ski poles..me poles? A2.16 Pro Trailer, Mountian Pole! again.

Here is a pole drive by for ya....

My current pole collection dating back to the late '70s from right to left.

And until recently everything was still in use.  No more.

Good idea, but a poor understanding and  follow through on my part here:

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2013/11/can-you-open-your-mind.html

The gear list?

going, going ...gone!

Most won't care.  But a few have asked.   From the many options I have here to ski and climb in what did I take to or end up using full time in Chamonix?  Each was carefully chosen from a lot of options.
Never been to Chamonix when I didn't want to buy or think I "needed" something.  Of course I did eventually!  But this is what I actually used this trip to great satisfaction.  And better yet, never thought I lacked anything for gear or clothing.  I went heavy on ski and could have left the Hauscaran or the GPO at home...but not both.  The other two I used a lot.  Boots as well.  All good choices I'd take again. 

The ice axe......

My first lasting impression of "ice climbing" was a quote.  Don't remember where it came from now but most likely a European from the '30s who had spent some serious time on steep North Faces in the Alps.

"Where there is snow, we can go!"  

Westcomb Shift LT in Neoshell

 

Westcomb sez:
"Industry’s lightest Polartec® NeoShell® Jacket. The Shift Hoody offers no-compromise wind and water protection, in a featherweight shell. Designed so the gram counting outdoor adventurer can maximize experience with minimal weight."

For this year's trip to Chamonix I was determined to not over pack or take so much new gear that I would never get a chance to use it all.  I did exactly that last time.  Besides the over weight and excess luggage charges (which were as much as my original plane ticket!)  the entire process ended up a disaster.  Gear was lost or stolen mailing it back to save money and there was gear in France I never did get a chance to use.

PPP on my part.

Straps or brakes?

Entering the last gully on the Grand Envers

Rant mode on here and at full volume!

Peak Performance BlackLight Synthetic Puffy?

Sking into Zermatt.  Last day of the tour.  Clothing is sorted!

For those reading the  blog long term it is obvious I get pretty excited about my light weight synthetic puffs.  I own a bunch of them from different manufactures and at least attempt to use them all.  Arcteryx, Mountain Equipment, Mont Bell, Patagonia are some of my favorites.

But I am ever seldom happy for long.  The more you use the best gear available, the more it becomes clear on how to better it fro your own use.