Most of this stuff is the same ice or rock. Will is known for ice but it is worth a few minutes to read his recent thoughts and the resulting discussion if you haven't already. Loved the reality check and the common sense approach.
"Most of the people proposing various strategies have simply not gone out and tested their strategies. I have. Bluntly, until someone experiences the violent forces and speed of high fall-factor falls I just don't think he or she really has an informed opinion on this topic"
My general thought is this:
"There are very few “absolutes” in climbing systems..."
Understanding the dynamics and the systems we are using is what I think is important and more than a penny of simple common sense added to the problem each time. I can count the number of times I have clipped straight into the anchor. It aint many.
This is what common sense tells, and I tend to speak up when I see those ex-USSR "certified" instructors teaching dangerous BS about "thou shall always clip the runner thru topmost anchor piece". Will just summarized that, and deepened the research.
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