Posts
Amazing conditions on les Droites this past winter.
Jackson/Shea on les Droites, winter 2011
Richard Cranium Memorial Buttress, winter 2011.
Last Spring in the Sierra
9 years ago
Saturday, April 30, 2011
Wednesday, April 27, 2011
Will as a voice of sanity? Who'd have thought ;-)
Good read...
http://gravsports.blogspot.com/2011/04/eat-this.html
Bottom line from my perspective...eat, train, recover and sleep. Enjoy. Repeat.
Train/exercise enough to burn what you eat. Simple...when it comes to weight gain or loss.
Know the difference between training and exercise.
http://gravsports.blogspot.com/2011/04/eat-this.html
Bottom line from my perspective...eat, train, recover and sleep. Enjoy. Repeat.
Train/exercise enough to burn what you eat. Simple...when it comes to weight gain or loss.
Know the difference between training and exercise.
The Full Spectrum of Gloves?
When the rock does this to a set of picks in a few pitches...think what it will do to gloves?
How every alpine glove eventually ends up.
One of the topics that came up in the requests was more glove info. Most of us are on a constant search for a better glove. That might be a warmer, more durable, more water proof or easier to dry glove. It depends on your need at that moment for that particular adventure. If anything it is worth noting that few of us climb in the same gloves. And there are a gazillion manufactures out there. I am about as anal on my glove choices as I am on my boots so..as always buyer and reader beware ;-)
Here are some examples of the glove styles I use constantly.
full leather gloves
glove liners, both wool and synthetic
wool gloves or mittens
all synthetic gloves
leather and synthetic combination gloves
Dave in his prefered BDs.
(I own mittens but so seldom use them I'll leave them out of the conversation)
The brand names that I prefer at the moment are Outdoor Research and Mountain Hardware. My partner's (all of them) most commonly used glove is one form or another from Back Diamonds. And I have used BD gloves myself.
The flip side to Matt's pair of BD gloves above.
It wouldn't have been my first choice but still good enough to get Matt up the Ginat last week in less than stellar weather.
The brand name gloves I have used a lot in the past are:
Dachstein
Helly Hensen
Gates
Chouinard
Black Diamond
REI
Here is how I divide up my glove choices and there is some over lap generally. But easy to get some cash wrapped up in gloves.
Liners/approach gloves
leather/rap or bush whack (think 10' high slide alders or Devil's club)
XC ski
DH ski
tech climbing gloves
alpine climbing gloves
cold weather gloves
My first go to glove is the BD Polartec liners either Midweight or the Heavyweight. And I generally loose them before I wear them out. And I wear them out by melting them on a stove. Awesome glove. Works for approaches, XC skiing, spring DH skiing, as a lwt tech glove or a warm weather alpine glove or nasty bush wacking. Many designs like them but these are the best I have used.
http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/
Leather? I use them in the alpine on bush wacks and on nasty steep raps with 7mm twins My favorites are a pair of thin steer hide I buy at Lowe's. But they have to fit perfectly and they aren't cheap. They generally last 4 or 5 years with consistent use with a chainsaw and around the yard. I'm also partial to the Metolious full finger belay glove. Although i never use them for belaying. I like a glove you know isn't going to come apart in use. This is the glove I use for the free rap off the Midi's bridge in cold winter temps. It is awesome and cheap. Mine are now 10 years old and just getting broken in. Nice glove!
http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/belay_glove.html
How every alpine glove eventually ends up.
One of the topics that came up in the requests was more glove info. Most of us are on a constant search for a better glove. That might be a warmer, more durable, more water proof or easier to dry glove. It depends on your need at that moment for that particular adventure. If anything it is worth noting that few of us climb in the same gloves. And there are a gazillion manufactures out there. I am about as anal on my glove choices as I am on my boots so..as always buyer and reader beware ;-)
Here are some examples of the glove styles I use constantly.
full leather gloves
glove liners, both wool and synthetic
wool gloves or mittens
all synthetic gloves
leather and synthetic combination gloves
Dave in his prefered BDs.
The brand names that I prefer at the moment are Outdoor Research and Mountain Hardware. My partner's (all of them) most commonly used glove is one form or another from Back Diamonds. And I have used BD gloves myself.
The flip side to Matt's pair of BD gloves above.
And all better now ;-)
The brand name gloves I have used a lot in the past are:
Dachstein
Helly Hensen
Gates
Chouinard
Black Diamond
REI
Here is how I divide up my glove choices and there is some over lap generally. But easy to get some cash wrapped up in gloves.
Liners/approach gloves
leather/rap or bush whack (think 10' high slide alders or Devil's club)
XC ski
DH ski
tech climbing gloves
alpine climbing gloves
cold weather gloves
My first go to glove is the BD Polartec liners either Midweight or the Heavyweight. And I generally loose them before I wear them out. And I wear them out by melting them on a stove. Awesome glove. Works for approaches, XC skiing, spring DH skiing, as a lwt tech glove or a warm weather alpine glove or nasty bush wacking. Many designs like them but these are the best I have used.
http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/
Leather? I use them in the alpine on bush wacks and on nasty steep raps with 7mm twins My favorites are a pair of thin steer hide I buy at Lowe's. But they have to fit perfectly and they aren't cheap. They generally last 4 or 5 years with consistent use with a chainsaw and around the yard. I'm also partial to the Metolious full finger belay glove. Although i never use them for belaying. I like a glove you know isn't going to come apart in use. This is the glove I use for the free rap off the Midi's bridge in cold winter temps. It is awesome and cheap. Mine are now 10 years old and just getting broken in. Nice glove!
http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/belay_glove.html
I use my gloves for all sorts of stuff but the only skiing specific gloves I use are made by these guys:
I generally have pretty warm hands and seldom suffer through the scream'in barfies even in pretty cold weather. So a lwt XC glove often gets used for DH skiing. I like Model ”S” 0103-00 for what it is worth.
These make a decent thin dry tooling glove as well.
Thomas Smiley photos: www.smileysmtphoto.com
ALPINE CLIMBING GLOVES
Alpine climbing for me generally means winter. In spring, summer and fall any combination of gloves on this list can and generally do get used. But winter I have some old favorites. Mtn Harware and OutDry are my favorites along with a couple of pair of the OR gloves. You can read more on the Mtn Hardware Hydra and the OR Vert in earlier blogs.
I have found the OurDry to keep my hands dry even when the entire outer shell and insulation is soaking wet and frozen stiff. Not the best situation but then my buddy's are often in some version of the Black Diamond Gortex or BDry and have wet hands and frozen gloves. Some difference but not a lot. OutDry seems more durable as it is harder to punch a hole in the water proof liner..."I think". But nothing scientific here just anecdotal evidence.
The one thing I have convinced myself of is that thin gloves like the Hydra work very well in some pretty cold conditions. When it gets colder I used to be convinced a removable liner was mandatory. Not any more. Truth is when it gets really cold and I need a warmer glove, I really need more insulation. Liner may or may not be useful depending on how good the glove is and how easy it is to use. If it is that cold drying the glove out hasn't been a problem as the inner of the glove doesn't get very wet.
I used the Mtn Hardware Typhon this winter as my back up, warmer glover to the Hydra. Dave was using the Mtn Hardware Jalapeno when he got cold or wet enough. I thought the Jalapeno easier to use and just as warm as my wool lined Typhon. Typhon's liner comes out, the Jalapeno's doesn't.
From Mtn Hardware I now use the Minus One, the Hydra, the Torsion and the Typhon depending on temps, use and need.. I'll likely start using the Jalapeno next winter.
I like a thinner glove with leashless tools so I don't have to remove my gloves for any reason. But get cold enough and the thicker gloves require me to pull the gloves off more than I want. Removeable liners that stay on when you pull the shells work well there. Big gloves, the Typhon and Jalapeno for example, are like good double boots, a pain in the ass to climb in...but without them you (me anyway) wouldn't still be climbing.
One of the things I found interesting this winter is the gloves I can generally climb with in Canada just weren't warm enough in the Alps this winter. That was a surprise. Thankfully I took some warmer gloves along but I wasn't happy climbing in them generally. It took so getting use to the thicker and stiffer gloves on technical ground and with my (tight) Nomic or Ergo handles. I used the Quarks with a more open grip some specifically for that reason. While I didn't have cold hands on that trip it was PP planning all around on my part.
Look around and try what you think will work for you. When you find some that do, be smart and buy 2 pair. Gloves are like climbing footware you'll want the RIGHT pair for every occasion
Pray you don't end up with this glove collection! And these are just the good ones ;-)
Tuesday, April 26, 2011
SPEED! Also known as being wired...
Ueli Steck on the Matterhorn
GJ Blog: "What speed ascent stands out? What are you most proud of?"
Steck: "I think my climb on the Grandes Jorasses. It was an onsite climb. I used my technique learned from the Eiger."
http://gearjunkie.com/ueli-steck-climber-interview
In this case coffee isn't going to help as much as having it wired instead of being wired.
I've spent a good portion of the blog talking about lwt gear and going fast. Here is a well known and well used technique that is easily ignored or just over looked by those unaware.
For the vast majority of those reading the blog I suspect, like myself, most are all impressed by the speed ascents of hard alpine routes.
What I'd bet is most don't realise is speed comes from being wired. Hard wired in fact.
Very few climbers will walk up to the Nose on El Cap and attempt a one day ascent. Likely even fewer capable of doing it. If you look at the records set on the Nose the guys that trade that record back and forth have also climbed the Nose generally dozens of times or just as likely their partner has if they haven't.
But actually climb the Nose or Half Dome and it becomes obvious to many that a one day ascent might well be within your own abilities with a little extra effort after dropping some gear. Not 2 hrs mind you but with in 24hr might seem more reasonable.
I am not taking anything away for anyone here. I've mentioned some awesome people and tremendous athletes And the speed climbs are amazing athlete feats. Very cool stuff all around. Just thought it worth making the point for those that aspire to climbs like the Nose in a day or the Eiger in a day. Or for that manner any route that you want to set a personal record on. Be it Rainier or the Nut Cracker. When I gently remind one of my long time climbing partners just how much difference it makes in route finding, gear selection and time if even half the climbing team has been on the route at least one, it can make a huge difference. Some timers he needs the reminder. His common answer is "let it go".
But you also have to possess the additional skill set to go faster with the additional beta. Point is most of us will need both (skill and knowledge) to go "fast" by today's standards.
But the reason I mention it here....besides the fact it will bug my partner, again, is that those that don't realise what is behind the speed curtain, should be aware of it.
Having a climb wired, be it a boulder problem of a long alpine route makes it easier. We all know that. Few of us haven't taken a buddy out and sand bagged them on a climb or had it done to us. You or they knew where it went and how, we didn't. Makes a difference on a 10 foot boulder problem and makes a difference on 6000 foot face.
No surprise but soloing routes where others are climbing makes a huge physiological difference, just as repeating a route that you have done before lowers the emotional strain. The mind controls the body.
Think about style. It doesn't take much to realise that solo, on sight, is good style. Enough so that Steck points it out in an interview. If you want to go fast the more you know about the climb the faster you can go. TV Mtn videos, guide books, topos all help. But knowing it up front is a good place to start as well.
If you want to go faster...climb it first.
photo by Robert Boesch
Steck: "I think my climb on the Grandes Jorasses. It was an onsite climb. I used my technique learned from the Eiger."
http://gearjunkie.com/ueli-steck-climber-interview
In this case coffee isn't going to help as much as having it wired instead of being wired.
I've spent a good portion of the blog talking about lwt gear and going fast. Here is a well known and well used technique that is easily ignored or just over looked by those unaware.
For the vast majority of those reading the blog I suspect, like myself, most are all impressed by the speed ascents of hard alpine routes.
What I'd bet is most don't realise is speed comes from being wired. Hard wired in fact.
Very few climbers will walk up to the Nose on El Cap and attempt a one day ascent. Likely even fewer capable of doing it. If you look at the records set on the Nose the guys that trade that record back and forth have also climbed the Nose generally dozens of times or just as likely their partner has if they haven't.
But actually climb the Nose or Half Dome and it becomes obvious to many that a one day ascent might well be within your own abilities with a little extra effort after dropping some gear. Not 2 hrs mind you but with in 24hr might seem more reasonable.
I am not taking anything away for anyone here. I've mentioned some awesome people and tremendous athletes And the speed climbs are amazing athlete feats. Very cool stuff all around. Just thought it worth making the point for those that aspire to climbs like the Nose in a day or the Eiger in a day. Or for that manner any route that you want to set a personal record on. Be it Rainier or the Nut Cracker. When I gently remind one of my long time climbing partners just how much difference it makes in route finding, gear selection and time if even half the climbing team has been on the route at least one, it can make a huge difference. Some timers he needs the reminder. His common answer is "let it go".
But you also have to possess the additional skill set to go faster with the additional beta. Point is most of us will need both (skill and knowledge) to go "fast" by today's standards.
But the reason I mention it here....besides the fact it will bug my partner, again, is that those that don't realise what is behind the speed curtain, should be aware of it.
Having a climb wired, be it a boulder problem of a long alpine route makes it easier. We all know that. Few of us haven't taken a buddy out and sand bagged them on a climb or had it done to us. You or they knew where it went and how, we didn't. Makes a difference on a 10 foot boulder problem and makes a difference on 6000 foot face.
No surprise but soloing routes where others are climbing makes a huge physiological difference, just as repeating a route that you have done before lowers the emotional strain. The mind controls the body.
Think about style. It doesn't take much to realise that solo, on sight, is good style. Enough so that Steck points it out in an interview. If you want to go fast the more you know about the climb the faster you can go. TV Mtn videos, guide books, topos all help. But knowing it up front is a good place to start as well.
If you want to go faster...climb it first.
Monday, April 25, 2011
Reader's survey?
If you look at the top ten most read articles on the Cold Thistle blog they are:
•Petzl Nomic and Ergo.."danger danger will robinson" (gear update)
•Scarpa Phantom Guide vs the La Sportiva Batura (gear review)
•Be attentive when placing ice screws! (climbing technique)
•The Outdoor Retailer Show SLC 2011 (gear news)
•The Scarpa Phantom 6000 review (gear review)
•The Climbing Sweater? (gear review)
•My climbing pack? (gear review)
•Ice climbing skills and techniques (climbing technique)
•Petzl Nomic Review..Old vs New (gear review)
•Design triumphs..the Norrøna Lyngen Down Belay jacket (gear review)
Gear reviews get the most over all traffic. And I have more of those planned. But many of the new ones will be on clothing not on hard goods. The exception this spring will be BC skis, boots and bindings as I wade my way through to come up with gear that will work better for me next year. We might be lucky enough to have Crystal Mtn stay open till late June or early July this year. So I plan on skiing in the BC and on lifts until the majority of snow is gone.
I have a litany of reviews I am still working on from this winter season (another look at two previous boots, more crampons, something on ropes, a bit on rock gear, a test on stoves, but mainly more clothing) but what I really want to know is what would you like to see for content.
The Blog started as me just spewing about what ever interested me at the moment. As the seasons change so do my interests. Long easy alpine traverses, spring skiing, triathlons, rock and of course some alpine climbing is generally the mix. My interests. But I'm curious as to what yours are?
•Petzl Nomic and Ergo.."danger danger will robinson" (gear update)
•Scarpa Phantom Guide vs the La Sportiva Batura (gear review)
•Be attentive when placing ice screws! (climbing technique)
•The Outdoor Retailer Show SLC 2011 (gear news)
•The Scarpa Phantom 6000 review (gear review)
•The Climbing Sweater? (gear review)
•My climbing pack? (gear review)
•Ice climbing skills and techniques (climbing technique)
•Petzl Nomic Review..Old vs New (gear review)
•Design triumphs..the Norrøna Lyngen Down Belay jacket (gear review)
Gear reviews get the most over all traffic. And I have more of those planned. But many of the new ones will be on clothing not on hard goods. The exception this spring will be BC skis, boots and bindings as I wade my way through to come up with gear that will work better for me next year. We might be lucky enough to have Crystal Mtn stay open till late June or early July this year. So I plan on skiing in the BC and on lifts until the majority of snow is gone.
I have a litany of reviews I am still working on from this winter season (another look at two previous boots, more crampons, something on ropes, a bit on rock gear, a test on stoves, but mainly more clothing) but what I really want to know is what would you like to see for content.
The Blog started as me just spewing about what ever interested me at the moment. As the seasons change so do my interests. Long easy alpine traverses, spring skiing, triathlons, rock and of course some alpine climbing is generally the mix. My interests. But I'm curious as to what yours are?
Saturday, April 23, 2011
The homeboys and girls!
Gwain above the difficut crack, Sept. '78.
Not really home...or even close. But a great effort by some friends on the Eiger the last few weeks. All fast one day climbs! Congrads to all six. I suspect they (Colin and Nils already do) will all have some great photos up soon. Jon as always packed his huge SLR on route. Check'um out.
Will Sim and Jon Griffith
Nice hammer on that Nomic :-)
http://www.alpineexposures.com/blogs/chamonix-conditions
http://willsim.blogspot.com/
Caroline and Adam George...
http://intothemountains.com/
http://carolinegeorge.blogspot.com/
http://www.travelblog.org/Bloggers/SwissMiss/
Colin and Nils
Colin Haley Photo
http://colinhaley.blogspot.com/2011/04/verte-courtes-doites-eiger.html
http://www.alpineaddiction.no/?tag=eiger
Not really home...or even close. But a great effort by some friends on the Eiger the last few weeks. All fast one day climbs! Congrads to all six. I suspect they (Colin and Nils already do) will all have some great photos up soon. Jon as always packed his huge SLR on route. Check'um out.
Will Sim and Jon Griffith
http://www.alpineexposures.com/blogs/chamonix-conditions
http://willsim.blogspot.com/
Caroline and Adam George...
http://intothemountains.com/
http://carolinegeorge.blogspot.com/
http://www.travelblog.org/Bloggers/SwissMiss/
Colin and Nils
Colin Haley Photo
http://colinhaley.blogspot.com/2011/04/verte-courtes-doites-eiger.html
http://www.alpineaddiction.no/?tag=eiger
Friday, April 22, 2011
Thursday, April 21, 2011
Fun!
First time I went to Europe in '78 one of the things that really impressed me was how entrenched alpinism was in the society of France and Switzerland. A Guide has the same respect in the community as a attorney or doctor here in the States. Similar in Canada but even more so because the societies know more about them and are exposed to the professional guides even more than they are in NA. Compare that to the position a guide has in the US.
Here is a classic example. Enjoy! I did ;) Your kids might as well ;)
Mark the Mountain Guide from Mark Seaton on Vimeo.
Here is a classic example. Enjoy! I did ;) Your kids might as well ;)
Mark the Mountain Guide from Mark Seaton on Vimeo.
New record on the Eiger?
"Dani Arnold topped out the Eiger North-face in a mere 2h 28’. He climbed solo but surpassed some 20 teams on his way up the Heckmair route. Dani Arnold claims the fastest ever ascent – he was about 20 minutes faster than Ueli Steck in 2008. As opposed to Ueli, Dani did not freeclimb the Hinterstoisser traverse (Steck’s ascent was in wintertime, when that passage was freeclimbable)."
More here:
http://www.mammut.ch/basecamp/en/basecamp-news/dani_arnold_eiger_record?iframe=1
"Spring/Summer/Fall" (April 20 in this case) and Winter (Feb 18 for Ueli's climb) climbs are generally not thought comparible.
Ueli in one of the best videos on the Eiger done after his original solo.
More here:
http://www.mammut.ch/basecamp/en/basecamp-news/dani_arnold_eiger_record?iframe=1
"Spring/Summer/Fall" (April 20 in this case) and Winter (Feb 18 for Ueli's climb) climbs are generally not thought comparible.
Ueli in one of the best videos on the Eiger done after his original solo.
Wednesday, April 20, 2011
Huntington....
Mt Huntington's, North face on the left, French Ridge aka NW Ridge center and the West face with the Harvard Route on the rib and just out of sight on the far right side, the Phantom Wall. Phantom Wall was first climbed by Jay Smith and Paul Teare on their third attempt in 1991. It has not had a second ascent despite a number of strong attempts.
More here:
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP14/climbing-notes-tackle
http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/huntingtonapp/
Mark Westman kindly allowed me to post his hi-def picture of the right side of the West face of Huntington. The Harvard Route takes the left hand spur in this picture. Phantom Wall is directly above the climbers. "Jared Vilhauer and Tim Dittmann making an attempt on the Phantom Wall last Saturday". Make sure you dbl click both photos for full effect. Thanks Mark!
More here:
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP14/climbing-notes-tackle
http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/huntingtonapp/
"
The last one for today....
I was finished then saw this one of Will...which I han't seen.
Classic study in good form on steep ice. One I'll eventually watch a few more times myself.
Will Gadd Ice Climbing in Marble Canyon from ARC'TERYX on Vimeo.
Classic study in good form on steep ice. One I'll eventually watch a few more times myself.
Will Gadd Ice Climbing in Marble Canyon from ARC'TERYX on Vimeo.
Tuesday, April 19, 2011
News from Shisha Pangma on Ueli Steck...
18/04/2011 - by Planetmountain
"Ueli Steck top speed solo on Shisha Pangma
On 17/04/2011 Swissman Ueli Steck ascended Shisha Pangma (8027m), Tibet in record time.
After a month acclimatising in the Khumbu region, Ueli Steck has kicked off his Himalayan season with a bang: in a mere 10.5 hours the Swissman climbed
Shisha Pangma, at 8027m the 14th highest mountain in the world.
Making the most of the weather window Steck set off from ABC at 5800m at 22:30 on Saturday at 22:30, and climbed the SW Face in 10. 5 hours. 20 hours after departure he was already back in Base Camp. The blitz climb was carried out alone, after his partner Don Bowie's wise forfeit since he did not feel perfectly acclimatised.
Details here:
http://www.uelisteck.ch/en/news/news/230-erfolg-am-shisha-pangma-detailbericht.html
Shisha Pangma is Steck's third 8000er, after Gasherbrum II in July 2009 and Makalu in September that same year. The alpinists have now time to celebrate: they're already focused on the next objective, Cho Oyu (8201m). Naturally to be climbed in Ueli Steck style, i.e. in record time."
Notes from::
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?keyid=38082
More on the peak and a previous solo of the Soulth Face by American, Chris Warner, on his 16:40 hour summit climb. See Chris' comments (comment section) which made me aware of his climb in 2001. And the link to his trip report on Shared Summits.
http://www.sharedsummits.com/index.php/Shishapangma-2001.html
http://www.8000ers.com/cms/shisha-pangma-general-info-198.html
Ueli Steck's Project Himalaya from Mountain Hardwear on Vimeo.
"Ueli Steck top speed solo on Shisha Pangma
On 17/04/2011 Swissman Ueli Steck ascended Shisha Pangma (8027m), Tibet in record time.
After a month acclimatising in the Khumbu region, Ueli Steck has kicked off his Himalayan season with a bang: in a mere 10.5 hours the Swissman climbed
Shisha Pangma, at 8027m the 14th highest mountain in the world.
Making the most of the weather window Steck set off from ABC at 5800m at 22:30 on Saturday at 22:30, and climbed the SW Face in 10. 5 hours. 20 hours after departure he was already back in Base Camp. The blitz climb was carried out alone, after his partner Don Bowie's wise forfeit since he did not feel perfectly acclimatised.
Details here:
http://www.uelisteck.ch/en/news/news/230-erfolg-am-shisha-pangma-detailbericht.html
Shisha Pangma is Steck's third 8000er, after Gasherbrum II in July 2009 and Makalu in September that same year. The alpinists have now time to celebrate: they're already focused on the next objective, Cho Oyu (8201m). Naturally to be climbed in Ueli Steck style, i.e. in record time."
Notes from::
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?keyid=38082
More on the peak and a previous solo of the Soulth Face by American, Chris Warner, on his 16:40 hour summit climb. See Chris' comments (comment section) which made me aware of his climb in 2001. And the link to his trip report on Shared Summits.
http://www.sharedsummits.com/index.php/Shishapangma-2001.html
http://www.8000ers.com/cms/shisha-pangma-general-info-198.html
Ueli Steck's Project Himalaya from Mountain Hardwear on Vimeo.
Monday, April 18, 2011
Mountain travel?
One thing that became glaringly obvious to me in Chamonix was..to climb there in winter you need to ski. And not just get by skiing but really ski. Walk like you ski and ski like you walk kind of skiing.
I keep up on Colin's blog. Paid attention to but didn't really clue in on the skiing. I figured, "Chamonix...when I couldn't climb, I'd ski". How bad can it be to be me ;-)
http://colinhaley.blogspot.com/
I've spent months at a time on skis, with a pack, a bomb or even a full size grain shovel. But I haven't been into skiing for a while now.
This blog started with a totally different title. I had intended the comments to high light some of the newest gear available for BC skiing. But the truth is skiing is just another skill, like belaying or using an ice axe that anyone that really wants to climb mountains needs to know. The Europeans have known that from the beginning. Their environment demands it. Two major dangers in the mountain snow pack, avalanche and crevasses. Sure you can climb without skiing. But you'll never be an Alpinist.
My first real AT boots were a pair of plastic Trappeurs with a Vibram sole. Not the best sole for a decent release in a DH binding of that era. (circa 1980) My skis were 190cm Rossignol Alp 3000. Fat, wide and short for the day. Loved those skis. But not the panche or speed of the 207 SMs, just more fun generally. Only the AT binding set ups kept them from being a amazing bit of gear. To be honest one of my reasons for the lack of excitement in skiing the last decade or so was the lack of gear that was up to the technology available.
I still hadn't seen anything to impress me for lwt mtn travel past Ned Gillete's Epoke 900s and 50mm bindings. We used that gear up to 14K on Denali for over a decade. Great for mileage...not so good on the down hill. But still way better than walking. Easier to carry the climbing boots than ski in them.
So after skiing for a month and then doing the high traverse off the GM and over to the north face of le Droites in my Spantiks and a pair 180cm of BD Aspects I was well aware of the limitations of my skill and my gear that day. Embarrassing so...and imo dangerous.
I am seldom intimidated on a pair of skis or by terrain. Kinda goes with the the knucklehead idea of "water ice..how hard can it be?" That morning I came to the conclusion one could be easily killed just getting to a climb in Chamonix. It as the first time that the thought had occurred to me after all the talk and previous incidents and the heartfelt discussions. This while everyone else in the basin that morning whipped by me on AT boots and generally shorter skis. By the time I got to the face any notion of actually climbing (it or anything else) was drained away by each patch of bare glacier ice traverse, one kick turn and each open crevasse at a time. Places most sane people would be roped up on. But no one ropes up in Chamonix for the "normal" runs. And this is a ski run commonly skied by locals or guided for the tourists. Tourists like me..
The thought of actually climbing in AT boots (which I have detested for several reasons) at that point seemed like a reasonable and much healthier option if you didn't first end up in the bottom of a crevasse just getting there. (to be fair way fewer rescues in the Argentiere than the Vallee Blanche it that is any consolation)
I had great beta and a plan for the climb. Only the approach and decent were stopping me. When I asked one of my acquaintances their suggestion after having just done the route again for the umpteenth time...the only suggestion offered was "take skis up and over".
Ya, I was fooked at that point. Out of psyche, out of time and out of my league.
I have never been stopped on a climb because of my gear selection. But I have questioned my own choice in gear and what I could have done better while on route many times. I prefer not to do that on climbs I suspect will be challenge enough with out extra weight on my back and some funky boots to climb in.
More to come on this subject but now you know why I have been looking at the AT ski blogs more closely.
Right now I headed out to go bc skiing for the day. A renewed passion.
Here is an idea of where I suspect to eventually be going. (and I'd bet the sport of climbing and skiing does as well)
http://www.wildsnow.com/4461/dynafit-tlt-5-performance-review/
http://notesfromtheneve.com/2010/03/02/a-new-era-in-touring-boots/
Photo courtesy of Colin Haley @ http://colinhaley.blogspot.com/
I keep up on Colin's blog. Paid attention to but didn't really clue in on the skiing. I figured, "Chamonix...when I couldn't climb, I'd ski". How bad can it be to be me ;-)
http://colinhaley.blogspot.com/
I've spent months at a time on skis, with a pack, a bomb or even a full size grain shovel. But I haven't been into skiing for a while now.
This blog started with a totally different title. I had intended the comments to high light some of the newest gear available for BC skiing. But the truth is skiing is just another skill, like belaying or using an ice axe that anyone that really wants to climb mountains needs to know. The Europeans have known that from the beginning. Their environment demands it. Two major dangers in the mountain snow pack, avalanche and crevasses. Sure you can climb without skiing. But you'll never be an Alpinist.
My first real AT boots were a pair of plastic Trappeurs with a Vibram sole. Not the best sole for a decent release in a DH binding of that era. (circa 1980) My skis were 190cm Rossignol Alp 3000. Fat, wide and short for the day. Loved those skis. But not the panche or speed of the 207 SMs, just more fun generally. Only the AT binding set ups kept them from being a amazing bit of gear. To be honest one of my reasons for the lack of excitement in skiing the last decade or so was the lack of gear that was up to the technology available.
I still hadn't seen anything to impress me for lwt mtn travel past Ned Gillete's Epoke 900s and 50mm bindings. We used that gear up to 14K on Denali for over a decade. Great for mileage...not so good on the down hill. But still way better than walking. Easier to carry the climbing boots than ski in them.
So after skiing for a month and then doing the high traverse off the GM and over to the north face of le Droites in my Spantiks and a pair 180cm of BD Aspects I was well aware of the limitations of my skill and my gear that day. Embarrassing so...and imo dangerous.
I am seldom intimidated on a pair of skis or by terrain. Kinda goes with the the knucklehead idea of "water ice..how hard can it be?" That morning I came to the conclusion one could be easily killed just getting to a climb in Chamonix. It as the first time that the thought had occurred to me after all the talk and previous incidents and the heartfelt discussions. This while everyone else in the basin that morning whipped by me on AT boots and generally shorter skis. By the time I got to the face any notion of actually climbing (it or anything else) was drained away by each patch of bare glacier ice traverse, one kick turn and each open crevasse at a time. Places most sane people would be roped up on. But no one ropes up in Chamonix for the "normal" runs. And this is a ski run commonly skied by locals or guided for the tourists. Tourists like me..
The thought of actually climbing in AT boots (which I have detested for several reasons) at that point seemed like a reasonable and much healthier option if you didn't first end up in the bottom of a crevasse just getting there. (to be fair way fewer rescues in the Argentiere than the Vallee Blanche it that is any consolation)
I had great beta and a plan for the climb. Only the approach and decent were stopping me. When I asked one of my acquaintances their suggestion after having just done the route again for the umpteenth time...the only suggestion offered was "take skis up and over".
Ya, I was fooked at that point. Out of psyche, out of time and out of my league.
I have never been stopped on a climb because of my gear selection. But I have questioned my own choice in gear and what I could have done better while on route many times. I prefer not to do that on climbs I suspect will be challenge enough with out extra weight on my back and some funky boots to climb in.
More to come on this subject but now you know why I have been looking at the AT ski blogs more closely.
Right now I headed out to go bc skiing for the day. A renewed passion.
Here is an idea of where I suspect to eventually be going. (and I'd bet the sport of climbing and skiing does as well)
http://www.wildsnow.com/4461/dynafit-tlt-5-performance-review/
http://notesfromtheneve.com/2010/03/02/a-new-era-in-touring-boots/
Sunday, April 17, 2011
Bush wack!
I still have scars on my shins from two of last summer's adventures.
My plan was to stay on the snow and my skis as long as possible this year with the amazing NW snow pack. Avoiding new scars was the thought. Then I saw this. Nice reminder. Make sure to dbl click the picture.
If you are into REAL adventure skiing..plenty of it on these two great blogs.
http://slcsherpa.blogspot.com/
http://slc-samurai.blogspot.com/
SLC? Who'd thought...the Chamonix of the USA? But with bush wacking. It is afterall an American tradition!
Dbl click..amazing pictures. All photo credits here to both the Sherpa and Samari blogs.
My plan was to stay on the snow and my skis as long as possible this year with the amazing NW snow pack. Avoiding new scars was the thought. Then I saw this. Nice reminder. Make sure to dbl click the picture.
If you are into REAL adventure skiing..plenty of it on these two great blogs.
http://slcsherpa.blogspot.com/
http://slc-samurai.blogspot.com/
SLC? Who'd thought...the Chamonix of the USA? But with bush wacking. It is afterall an American tradition!
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