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The cold world of skimo & alpine climbing

The cold world of skimo & alpine climbing

Monday, April 23, 2012


One of the most personally satisfying things I get to see from Cold Thistle is the guys/gals out climbing every day taking some of the ideas I write about and making them their own.  No greater compliment to me.  I am thrilled that anything I write or suggest actually gets rethought and used.

Here is one that popped up on my blog radar this morning.  Very cool pack Ryan had made up :)   And a great blog!


Damien Gildea said...

Ha! Last week I was going to contact Randy about making me exactly the same thing - a longer Ozone.

Dane said...

Nice packs ;_)

My bet is you'll really like it.

James said...

Dane, first off, congratulations on your recovery -- your story is an inspiration to many. Thanks for sharing it.

Thanks as well for the blog, and for a great series on packs. I, too, am tempted by the Ozone now.

Just two questions:

1-I noticed that aside from a mammoth stash of Advil, you don't seem to pack first aid supplies, emergency kit stuff, repair kit, etc. Is this just a result of weighing the probabilities vs. the weight?

2-Not sure if you take topic requests, but I'd be curious to hear how you think through what to bring for a rack (assuming you don't have beta beforehand for a climb) -- as a greenhorn I tend to be extra when I'm not sure, but a few add'l pieces can dwarf grams saved by spectra fabric, titanium stove, etc.

Thanks again,


Dane said...

1st aid? Good question I think. Lots of answers. While guiding I carried a small first aid kit in a plastic container. Over the years it became obvious as to what kind of things I needed generally. So that got pared down for my own use.

Lots of ways to look at 1st aid. Injuries you can "fix" and still be mobile on and injuries you can't fix and then you'll need to be carried out is my personal perspective.

Advil, a roll of athletic or duct tape and a bandana or two will usually get you through the first stage. It won't be pretty but so far that combo has worked. Needing a real rescue? That will generally take some imagination. Some serious pain killers (222s and up) and the ability to communicate.

Repairs? I don't plan on any repairs. Spares maybe but no repairs.
Emergencies? Better be able to make do for 24 or 48s with what you bring is my though. Cell and Sat phones make a lot of sense to me if there is a "real" accident.

Rack? Depends on what I am trying to do and how hard I think the climbing will be compared to my relative skill.
If you can solo everything on route the rack can be small right? If the difficulties are at my limit or over it I'll likely need more gear. So depending on the difficulty and my skill at that moment I try to take only what will be required and then hope for the best. It is always a fine line. But what I know will be required is that I will have to climb better if the gear won't cover it.

The better rack choices are experience based I think.