Black Diamond Heel Lever Concerns?

Editors note:
The following blog entry is by NE climber Joe Palma. Once Joe had warned me of the issue on his crampons I looked at my own. I use Black Diamond heel pieces (bought from BD mail order) on my own hybrid crampon binding systems. I found 3 or the 6 heel pieces deformed from pressure where Joe's failed.   *Just to be clear here, this is not a cosmetic issue.  If the heel wire slips through the heel piece as Joe's did, you'll loose tension on the binding and likely loose a crampon.* 

Black Diamond Heel Lever concerns by Joe Palma

A couple of evenings ago I was inspecting and fitting my Stinger and Sabretooth crampons to a new set of La Sportiva Baturas, when I discovered a problem. Wanted to get the word out for others to inspect their newer style BD crampon rear bails for similar issues.

I was adjusting the length of one of the Stinger crampons, when I noticed that the rear bail wire was no longer sitting in the groove of the retainer in the tension adjuster; it was rattling around free in the plastic track between the retainer and the bottom of the lever. At first I thought it might have been a manufacturing goof, but that didn't make sense as I'd had about 10 days last season on the Stingers, and there's just no way I wouldn't have noticed the wire not sitting in the retainer. The date code on the Stingers is 1334.

Pulled the rear bail apart completely and found that the bottom lip of aluminum retainer, which the tensioning screw runs through, had deformed with the tension of the bail wire. I can only assume the wire deformed the retainer sufficiently, such that the wire was able to pull through.

When I checked the rear bails on the Sabretooths, same design, they didn't show similar patterns of wear

I wear a large boot (size 46) and size/tension my crampons carefully; amongst the things I take into account are making sure the rear points don't extend beyond the back of the heel, that the retaining posts on the rear assemblies clear the heel of the boot, and that there's no rattle nor play in the crampon. That generally means I have a reasonable amount of tension on the heel bail; not so much that I have to struggle to get them on/off, but enough to ensure a secure fit and interface.

Attached a few pictures below that should help clarify:

First is of the aluminum retainer. Note the deformation on the left hand side of it; that was the end that was tensioning up on the wire. There is some deformation on the right side as well; that's from me re-assembling the bail with the retainer reversed and tensioning the rear bail on the boot with a moderate amount of pressure. Wanted to see how easy/difficult it would be to deform the retainer. It doesn't take much.

Retainer Submitted By: Joe Palma on Dec 19, 2012

And the retainer assembled in the levers on the Stinger

Rear bail 1 Submitted By: Joe Palma on Dec 19, 2012

Rear bail 2 Submitted By: Joe Palma on Dec 19, 2012

Rear bail 3 Submitted By: Joe Palma on Dec 19, 2012

Next are a couple of photos of the rear bails of my Sabretooths, have more days on them, but they don't seem to show anywhere near the same pattern of deformation

Sabretooth 1 Submitted By: Joe Palma on Dec 19, 2012

Sabretooth 2 Submitted By: Joe Palma on Dec 19, 2012

I've emailed BDEL's warranty group and, of course, they put replacement rear bail assemblies in the mail to me yesterday, and I've shipped back the bails for their inspection. I asked them to have someone from the QA group get back in touch with me once they've had the chance to inspect the assemblies. Whatever I hear back, I'll pass along.  Joe Palma

Update from Joe 1/4/13
"Heard back from BD's QA folks and they've not seen a similar situation with the rear bails. There wasn't anything remarkable with the aluminum insert; certainly doesn't appear to be defective materials or design. Only thing that makes sense as a cause is that during fitting the Stingers to the Baturas I hadn't adjusted the frame length and in the process of levering the rear bail, I applied enough force to flex the plastic heel lever and deform the aluminum insert such that the wire slipped through. I was fitting the crampons on a workbench in my basement, not in the field, so I could exert considerably more force on the lever than I would when actually apply when putting them on in the field. Bottom line is inspect your crampons for wear, particularly the rear bail assemblies if you like to reef them down tight and during sizing. Had replacement bails shipped to me by BD's warranty department and the Stingers are back in action. "

Polartec Power Shield Pro...

Patagonia's Northwall jacket in Polartec Power Shield Pro and a grid fleece interior

As unlikely as I might have thought you'd ever see a virtual Patagonia ad on Cold Thistle..here goes :)  The editorial content is really suppose to be a well deserved Polartec ad/public service announcement but I can understand the confusion.  I am just as enamored with all the pretty colors, so what the hell :).

16 months ago I was lucky enough to get early samples of two different Polartec fabrics Patagonia was going to be using to great effect.  Obvious now, Patagonia has decided to expand on that effort in their alpine climbing line.  Great decision I think.

I'm generally not a big fan of the Patagonia patterns as they haven't fit me very well.  The current generation of garments are better.  Not an "Arcteryx fit" yet but much better than in the recent past I think.  Call fit a work in progress at Patagonia.  It doesn't happen often but I just spent some of my own money on gear at the local Patagonia store so it is good enough!  And some of what I bought is very, very good I think.  Thanks for the extra help there Travis!

What isn't a work in progress is the two fabrics that Patagonia is using.

Polartec Power Shield Pro

and

Polartec Power Shield Pro with the Regulator high-loft grid fleece interior.

Both are amazing fabrics for my intended purpose, which is alpine and ice climbing in cold environments.  And to some extent, alpine skiing, BC and lift served.

Interior fleece on the Northwall jacket

 

Photo above courtesy of http://backcountryskiingcanada.com.    Good review here:
http://backcountryskiingcanada.com/index.php?p=page&page_id=Patagonia%20Northwall%20Soft%20Shell%20Jacket

My first thought with the Polartec Power Shield Pro w/ fleece interior was,  "just add Neoshell".  And "I REALLY gotta have pants in this stuff!"  Then we would REALLY be rocking!   From the few I have heard of using the Neoshell/ Power Shield Pro combo so far, the feedback I have heard is "best pant I've ever used!".

I think that pretty much "covers it" from my perspective as well.  Much more to come on that in a future review or two.

Polartec Power Shield or Power Shield Pro is used in all these garments from Patagonia.  Costly and hard to justify the price, may be, but well worth a look.  I think these garments and the various versions of Polartec's Neoshell are the cutting edge for performance fabrics at the moment.

Mixed Guide Hoody is a hybrid hard and soft shell combo. 

Green is a hard shell, technology, the blue is stretchy and tough Power Shield soft shell.  Not the Power Shield Pro material.  But there is only a slight difference in the laminate used and virtually none in actual use outdoors that I can tell.  Check out the listed stats of both stats in the comments section below.

 

 

 

 

 

soloing in a Frontpoint

 

 

The first jacket I used with similar (almost exactly the same) hybrid construction to the Mixed Guide was the now discontinued Eddie Bauer Frontpoint.  The Frontpoint is still a bench mark in performance and weight for me.  And a go to piece for my own climbing even now.   Although a bit heavier by 4 oz in a size large (and likely more durable as well) the Mixed Guide will likely replace the Frontpoint for many projects.

The Patagonia Northwall pant pictured above.  Much as I really wanted to LUV these pants, for me the fit was terrible.  Which was a huge bummer. ( and eventually became perfect with a little help from the Chemo diet a year later)  But the Patagonia 100% customer satisfaction guarantee was rock solid, so no worries.  Patagonia is expensive in comparison to some other soft goods companies but also really easy to deal with if a problem does occur.  I'm always impressed by that.  At similar price points, let me know how far you get with Arcteryx for example on repairs or a warranty issus?   My experiences there have been bleak.   The Patagonia Northwall pant was truly an eye opener for the potential performance of Polartec Power Shield Pro with the Regulator high-loft grid fleece interior.

Men's and woman's versions of the Northwall jacket.  The Northwall is a very warm soft shell.  If you run cold this jacket may offer the option of a a warmer, and still very durable soft shell. 

The 2nd color choice on the Mixed Guide...hard to be bashful in either of these.

And the same jacket I'm using in the mast head photo on Carlsberg.  Now one of my all time favorite climbing shells, the Patagonia Knifeblade, made from an uninsulated version of Polartec Power Shield Pro.

Rab in the rain? The RAB Cirrus Wind-Top

Truth is I spend a lot of time in the rain.  I live in the foot hills of the Cascades for crimney sake.  It is to be expected.   And if I sort out the time spent, more of it is in my office than outdoors this time of year.  Thankfully with the 22 of Dec close at hand!    We all have are own crosses to bare.  My buddy was commenting on how cold it was skate skiing in and out of Moraine Lake last week.  While I was running in the rain @ 36F degrees.

 

Cold is cold.  But good gear can limit the suffering.

 

Which is why this quick blog.  I like being surprised by good gear.

 

An hour run in a heavy rain at 36 degrees is a good test of one's will to get out of the house (at least for me) and of the gear.  Not much gear involved.  Gloves which I seldom, almost never, run in.  But it was cold enough I kept them on the entire time.   I used a simple lwt fleece liner glove.   My favorite Lopren running socks, Nike flats, a pair of Paradox tights, a Performance hooded jersey and my RAB  Cirrus Top.  The less you use likely the better you'll want it to be.

 

An hour later my jersey was still dry.  I was still warm and sweat was still running off me.  Jacket was totally soaked, (as is everything except my core)  but the fabric still had water beading up on its surface.  I am dry for the most part under neath and not wet or cold from the rain or the effort.  Much to my surprise I didn't suffer much.  And I hadn't expected much of the Cirrus in the conditions.  The actual results rather pleasant by comparison.

 

How cool is that? 

 

Advertised as a wind shell by RAB but good in enough for some rain if you can keep moving and the DWR is new enough I suspect :)   I am beginning to really appreciate this one.  More to it than meets the eye.   Side pockets that serve as vents for one. Great fleece backed "collar" if you zip it up and leave the hood down as I normally do running, even when it is pouring out.  But nice to have an option that works so well.  Great color choice for those required high  visibility days.  Simple elastic cuffs.   Well under 5oz.   Not every lwt shell is created equal.   The Cirus is better than most.

 

 

 

The Cirrus Wind-Top,  full zip version.

Using the same Pertex Quantum 15 Denier fabric as the Pull-On
the Wind-Top also features an under-helmet hood and 2 zipped
hand-warmer pockets.Designed for fast and light use the Cirrus
Wind-Top is a fully featured jacket that can be used over layers
to create a warm and windproof clothing system yet weighs in at
just 120g / 4ozThe Cirrus Wind Top is ideal for adventure racers,
mountain marathons, fell runners, mountain bikers, or even for
super lightweight alpine style ascents on rock where wind proof
protection is required.

Sizes: S - XXL
Weight: 120g / 4oz (4.6oz for my Large)

$110 retail

More here on shells

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2012/10/super-light-wind-shells.html

How much did it weigh, 1984?

In 1984 John Bouchard wrote of his and Titione's, six day, January ascent of the S. Face of Aconcagua with a total of.....".no more than 10# of clothing and 25# packs".  The details are reprinted above.

I added up a similar and very specific list a few days ago.   The price of this full kit list today could easily make a grown man weep to get it under 10#.

Total is 8.9#

* 2 pair of socks liner and a med weight 
5.25 oz/ 150g

* boots/inner boots
2# 8 oz/ 1134g  Scarpa Phantom 6000 with Baruntse liner
               
*Long john bottom
166g/ 5.8oz wool blend 166g /5.8oz                     

*Pants
602g/ 21oz bib in Polartec's Neoshell/ Power Shield Pro/ grid fleece interior

*t shirt
220g / 8oz Patagonia lwt fleece zip T

*shell
340g/ 12oz Westcomb Shift 12oz

(or combine the two with a Arcteryx Venta MX 22oz / 628g and save 1oz. )

*insulation/ wind shell layer
RAB Xenon Hoody 311g / 11oz

*Belay jacket
Mtn H Nilas 631g/ 22.2oz

*gloves
Mtn Hydra 262g / 9.25oz

*hat
Arc. Rho beanie
36g / 1.25 oz

*helmet
Petzl Meteor
224/ 7.9oz

Lots of different combos available.  This is the best I could do for the warmth involved and a systems approach.   How does your gear's weight measure up to 1984 standards?  And the more specific question I think, "how much better/warmer is it?"

Large or XL jackets and more

Might be worth a look at the new additions.  Could be an early Chirstmas if you are the right size.
http://coldthistletools.blogspot.com/2011/12/cold-thistle-review-gear-for-sell.html

Korra Pesce interview

Yooo! Momma!

These GLoves ROCK! Fly Low Gloves.

 

 

FlyLow leather gloves ...


"Why does every ski patroller wear work gloves while skiing? The answer is simple, because they are just as tough as $150 leather palm gloves and they breathe better, so they keep you dry longer. Dry hands = warm hands. Flylow took the classic 1/2 leather work glove and made it nice: the fingers fit right, the stitching is consistent, the leather is soft and flexible. Then we brought on Big Al the glove baker to heat up the gloves and apply Astko's SnoSeal Bees Wax treatment to the gloves. But that is not all! Then he bakes them again, coats them again and bakes them one final time to give you the best pair of work gloves a guy (or gal) could ask for. Triple baked and super affordable!"

$30 for the fabric back, $40 for the full leather model.

A great lwt ski glove.  They simply rock!  I just bet $40 they will work with a set of ice tools.  Price is right.  I like them!  Easily available, just do a quick Google search.

Rumor is:

"Kinco in Portland OR makes these for Flylow, and Flylow, seals them, then rebrands 'em.
Go to the hardware store, buy a pair of Kincos for $12, buy Snoseal for $3 - bake them yourself.
The only other edge Kinco has, is they reinforce their palms and fingers with an extra layer of pigskin. The Flylow version doesn't have this. "

Synthetic 60g and 100g Insulation pieces?

Here is a update:

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2012/12/synthetic-insulation-60g-to-100g.html

The Belay Jacket Tutorial

Ryan Johnson bundled under a Fisson SL and a Dually layered over an "action suit" base, photo courtesy of Clint Helander

 

 

I write about, study, worry about, buy and use a lot of belay jackets.  It hasn't always been so.  And until relatively recently (only the last 10 years) in my own climbing career never actually used a "belay jacket".   While at the same time for the last 30 years I have been intentionally trying to climb "light and fast", all while not freezing my ass off. With varying amounts of success.

  

Sure, on the rare occasion I have carried what some would refer to now as a  "belay jacket".  But they were really just part of my sleeping system that allowed me to carry a lighter bag.  Not anything I intentionally wanted to climb in.  And even then it would have to be pretty darn cold for me to be able to climb in those same jackets without over heating.

 

 

With out a belay jacket, and more importantly, without the knowledge of how to properly use a belay jacket, the idea of "light and fast", generally will mean something other than: light, fast and no sleep till you were off the hill.

 

At  some point your endurance and your gear  will limited what you do in the mountains.  The limit (which seems pretty well proven @ this point) for us was 40 hrs of continuous climbing.  Better plan on a nap by hour 40.   Or even better, a good bit of sleep to recover and better rehydrate from the effort.   

 

It is the decision that you will likely go over 40 hrs that will determine what additional gear you'll need for the required nap.  And how much you'll likely suffer for the decision.  

 

From the email the blog generates and the typical Internet traffic on "belay jackets" I see, it is obvious to me that there is some confusion on how a "belay jacket" is best used. 

 

If you have any doubts the first thing you should do is read Mark Twight's EXTREME ALPINISM.  The current crop of belay jackets were specifically designed around the idea on a "action suit" for climbing and easily added over layers of insulation ( the "belay jacket" )  when stopped, to maintain body heat.   

 

But here is the rub.  Like many great ideas, it is how that idea is applied that counts.

 

Cool muscles work more efficiently than over heated muscles.

If you don't believe that or don't understand it try a simple test.  With the same clothes and effort run a 10K in the rain @ 50F degrees and run the same 10K @ 95F degrees

 

Now apply that lesson to your own climbing.  Sure you need to survive.  So you'll want to take the amount of insulation required to do so.   But you also want to be efficient in your own climbing.  Which will mean cool muscles are much better than over heated ones.  Take the least amount of weight that enables you to succeed.  What you need and nothing more.

 

A jacket designed for a 60hr ascent of Denali's Solvak route is not likely the same jacket you will need for your local 6 pitch mixed line in the lower 48.  

 

The belay jacket is part of your belay system.  It is not, by defnition, a part of your "action" suit.

One is for climbing.  The other is an addition to your climbing suit, to retain the body heat you have just generated by climbing, to limit the effects of no movement while belaying.

 

It is important to differentiate between the two.  A 60g Atom LT or a Gamma MX shell  that are the major part of your upper body "action suit" are not part of your "belay jacket" system.  In the opening picture for this blog Ryan is using a Fisson SL (76g)  and a Duelly (152g) as his "belay jacket" system.  That is a full 200+ g of Arcteryx's Therma Tek insulation!   Early Spring can be pretty cold in the shade on the Kahiltna.

 

The Atom LT Ryan climbs in or the soft shell you climb in as a the main upper layer of your "action suit" is not a "belay layer".    My guess where climbers get into trouble is by thinking that a 60g Atom LT and a 100g SV...as good as the combo is to climb in...will then be as warm as a Atom LT and Duelly combo.  The 60/100 g combo is not going to be as warm.  You are talking 160g verses 230g combos. Seems obvious doesn't it?  But I have seen others suggesting exactly that. 

 

It is bad math to add your action suit insulation to your "belay jacket" insulation.  In other words take the insulation required in your belay jacket....just don't take any more than required. 

 

It should be obvious by now that could be 60g or 260g depending on your objective.

 

I can't tell you how many times I have regretted not taking my own advice.  Freezing my ass off at a belay, and then because I was chilled, leaving my belay jacket on to follow the pitch.  Then almost immediately over heating mid pitch because of that mistake.  That is with just 100g insulation for my Belay Jacket, even @ -30C!   I would have been better off to start off cold and warm up on the pitch by climbing.  My clothes would have stayed drier.  I would have stayed better hydrated.  And most importantly I would have been stronger over all on route.  I am a slow learner.  But I do eventually learn from my mistakes.

 

 

Here is a list of what is available from Arcteryx and Patagonia as an example of insulation in their  various models.  Depending on the temperatures any one of them, or any combination of them, could be used as the perfect "belay jacket".

 

Arcteryx:

60g coreloft                   Atom LT
100g corloft                   Atom SV
140g Coreloft                Kappa SV
153g  of Therma Tek    Duelly
153g  of Therma Tek    Fission SL with GTX Pro Shell

Patagoniua:

60g of Primaloft 1          Nano Puff Series   
100g Primaloft Sport      Micro Puff Series
170g Primaloft 1             DAS (2011/2012 version)

Patagonia DAS for 2013/2014

It was brought to my attention this morning (1/3/13) that the new DAS pictured and described here is available now from Patagonia mail order.

 

As anyone who reads the blog likely knows I have not been a big fan of the DAS.  That said knowing full well it is likely the most widely used belay parka made.  Helps that it was the first belay specific parka styled after Mark Twight's writing in EXTREME ALPINISM to be marketed.    A "new" insulated puffy pant that is better fitting and designed for climbers will be welcome by anyone using them for that purpose.

 

Good as the DAS was in the past and is likely to be in the newest generation, shown here, there are always things to improve upon in a very competitive field.

 

The info highlighted below came from an unknown reader of the blog four days after the original post was made and is a must read. (the entire comment is below)   I have missed the boat before and it will likely happen again.  Nice to have a little help once in a while.  I done a bit of editing here as well from the original piece.  I may not agree with everything in quotes here ( and I bet Acrteryx doesn't either if the Duelly is an example)  but I don't have the technical background to dispute any of it either.  Great info either way and I do appreciate the input.   Easy enough to check out the differences in varying Primaloft insulations and how warm they are for the weight.  What they cost is a totally different story and a little harder to get a hand on. 

 

"Synergy is a continuous filament insulation, which is fundamentally different from PL1 and every other short staple polyester fill. For starters, it's bulkier, which at first blush would seem to be a negative attribute, but for a garment like the DAS, which requires a boat-ton of polyester fill, a bulkier insulation has some advantages. For one, it breathes better—there's more space between the polyester fibers—and insulation that breathes better is going to retain less moisture, thereby staying lighter throughout the day. Also, an insulation that breathes better is going to dry your action-suit out quicker because the climate within your layers will be less humid. Lastly, and least importantly, a continuous filament insulation is going to be more durable, which is certainly not a bad quality to have in a garment that's intended to go in and out of your pack all day.

One idea that Twight makes clear in his book is that in order for your system to continue to push moisture all the way into the air, your insulation must get more breathable the farther away it is from your skin. This explains why Patagonia has chosen PL1 for their Nano line, PL Sport for the Micro line, and Synergy for the DAS. Each insulation is loftier than the next, make sense? It's also why Patagonia includes a thin layer of PL1 on the inside of the DAS—it's the layer that's closest to your skin and the one that will come in contact with the most moisture. "

Some of the Patagonia sales pitch below from another source and the technical details.   Be sure to read the info posted previous on Primaloft insulation to put the newest combo into perspective.  Only 60g Primaloft 1 in this version  and a 120g of  Primaloft, "Synergy".

 

"They're updating their DAS and also releasing DAS pants. I know

you're not a big fan of the DAS, but supposedly the fit is completely being overhauled and is not quite as baggy. Also, it's being updated to use only 60g of PL1 and 120g of PL Sinergy, which has a much lower CLO value. Overall, sounds like it's getting slightly lighter but also slightly less warm. My math says that 120g of Sinergy is the same as 95g of PL1 (CLO .73 vs PL1 CLO of .92), making the new DAS have only the equivalent of 155g of PL1 in the torso and 95g in the arms (current DAS has 170g in torso and 133g in the arms). DAS pants have 100g of PL1."

 

"For full-on alpine conditions, the DAS Parka is our warmest insulated

jacket made with high-loft 120-g PrimaLoft® Synergy insulation throughout, added PrimaLoft® One insulation in core areas, and a lightweight, PU-coated nylon ripstop shell that is durable, highly water-resistant and windproof. FABRIC: 1.2-oz 20-denier 100% nylon PU-coated ripstop with a DWR (durable water repellent) finish. Insulation: 120-g PrimaLoft Sinergy 100% polyester; torso additional layer: 60-g PrimaLoft One 100% polyester"

Fun memories.....and the Vuarnet Cateye sun glass

Mugs Stump soloing on Thelay Sagar, 1986.  Photo by Micheal Kennedy (courtesy of Patagonia's archives)  

I had just returned from the head.  There were several tables of us crowded around in the Road House that had just gotten off Denali after a big storm cycle went through.   Everyone at the table had been stuck at 17K for a few days.  Mugs and I had dug out each others tents a few times as the clients stayed in doors.   We were all happy, hungry and glad to be out of the mountains (at least I was anyway).

I sat back down and found my pork chop missing along with most of my mashed potatoes.  When my jaw dropped opened and my temper started to flare, Mugs and the rest of the table had a deep and well deserved laugh at my expense.  Great way to finally relax a bit, get warm and drink a beer or two.

I didn't have enough money in my pocket to buy another dinner. May  be an extra beer.   Of course they had already ordered and paid for one of both for me.  And I quickly realised how much of a dick I was being but not quickly enough.   Mugs could be hilarious in a social setting.  I eventually had a good laugh as well.  Mug's story of the cold on the Moose's Tooth bivy was funny and frightening.  He told us his head went  numb from the cold.  It had me rolling on the tent floor.  "No?  Really?  Your head hu?"   Or maybe it was the whisky.  Likely both.  Great story either way.  I was never sure if he was pulling my leg.  But I didn't think so.  Damn, that would be really, seriously, COLD ;)  Bet he is still laughing about that one!  Yep, "my head went numb!"  May be it was Bridwell's bivy stash that did that?

Hard for me not to remember Mugs and smile when I see a pair of Vuarnets.  Maybe it was the picture above and the Patagonia's Capiline ad.   It is a picture that still defines alpinism for me even today.  And you have to remember Michael Kennedy pulled out a camera to get the shot while soloing as well!      

We all went over the 'shrund together when Mugs and Paul Aubry did the Moonflower.  Brad and I failed on our proposed route.  Mugs was wearing Vuarnets in the bright sun that day as well. May, 1981.

Much more about Mugs here:
http://www.thecleanestline.com/2009/02/the-dream-a-journey-of-the-spirit-with-mugs-stump.html

Anyway Vuarnets are a fun memory for me.  Mugs and I would see each other on and off in Alaska every season for a few years.  He introduced me to Wild Things gear and by example, harder climbing than I had ever imagined possible.

Now that I think about it, even Doug Klewin had a pair or two of Vuarnets bitd.  Doug was wearing black framed, Cat Eye, Nuatilux lens Vuarnets on the 1st ascent of the North Buttress of Hunter!  Hard to believe that tiny bit of important NA mountaineering history (trivia)  might have be lost!   :)

Doug Klewin racking up mid "Shaft" on the 1st ascent, N. Butt of Hunter, Todd Bilbler photo

Anyway when I was doing the sunglass review earlier two things I found very exciting. The first was my original Vuarnets had lasted 35+ years.  They cost $58 at the time, which was a pot full of money for me.  My Galibier Mountain glasses had only been $38 a couple of years earlier.  So the Vuarnets were a big step up for me.   In my mind they were my first piece of  "man jewelry".   Gas was .63 cents a gallon in 1978!   I have broken three frames in those 35 years.  They are easy enough to replace if you have an oven or even boiling water handy.  But my lenses have no scratches and only one tiny pit on one lens from being dropped flat onto fresh pavement from about 6 feet up.  They are the only piece of my original climbing gear I still use.  More importantly one of the few pieces I still really like.  They have been "everywhere" with me climbing.  I had them on for my first 5.10 lead.   And all but one of the walls I did in the Valley.   Most every ice climb I had done in Canada up til 1990 as well.  And with few limitations they are as good as any thing available today I think.  Few would think of a $100 pair of sunglasses as jewelry today.

The second thing I find exciting?  I had looked around and saw Vuarnets selling for anywhere between $200+ and $350.  Crazy money IMO for a retro pair of glasses no matter how good the lens.
Maybe not so much crazy money if I remember how long they have lasted.

But then I found them, where else, but on Ebay.  Direct from France in all styles and lenses and at decent prices.  Nothing over $150 that I actually wanted and most a few bucks less.

For some reason I kept digging around on the Internet and found a US dealer who specialises in repairing vintage Vuarnets and selling parts as well as complete sunglasses for $105 including the shipping.

On a serious note.  The Vaurnet glass lens give excellent sun protection for your eyes.  There are multiple lenses available to fit most every one's needs.   I can attest that all the glass lenses are really tough and durable under hard use conditions.  The original nylon "cat eye" frames are robust and tough.  Most importantly for me is they fold almost flat and are easily carried/stored in a pocket on long mountain trips (like Denali).  Same place modern sunglasses can be bulky and hard to pack and fragile while living in the confines of a tent.

"Vuarnet lenses filter out all harmful UVZ, UVB and UVC radiation. Their multi-layered anti-reflective coatings eliminate glare and bounce-back light.

 

All Vuarnet lenses are made from the finest glass, ground and polished on both sides to ensure distortion free vision, and are heat tempered for impact and scratch resistance.

 

They meet the most stringent quality control standards and exceed all the performance criteria imposed by European, American and Australian consumer legislation. 

 

Skilynx Brown Silver Gradient Mineral lenses: PX4000, The Original and Legendary Vuarnet Ski Lens. Amber yellow base, brown & anti-reflective coatings.

Double gradient silver exterior filters to absorb white light glare, especially on or around snow and bright light conditions. Eliminates glare and reflection, enhances contrast and depth of field.

The essential lens for mountains activities and at sea. The Skilynx lens blocks nearly all of the violet and blue light, thus reducing glare and eye strain, while allowing more of the yellow-orange-red end of the spectrum to pass through to the eye, enhancing contrast, depth perception and sharpness of vision, making distant objects visually clearer.

This lens benefits from chemical tempering in order to make it secure. Besides the excellent adherence of surface treatments, it benefits from an outstanding longevity.

Each lens is engraved with the letter , symbol of authenticity Vuarnet."

Here are the links that I found for Vaurnet.  I have recently ordered from both companies and been happy with their service and products.   Enjoy!

 

JMARGIFTS.....a USA based company based in Saint Paul, MN.
Repairs, spare parts, and new sunglasses they can build you to your spec/color/lens on some styles, the Cat Eye in particular.   Quick service.  $105.00 for a new set of Cat Eye Skilynx (Mugg's choice in the mountains) or Nautilux including the shipping in the US!
http://www.jmargifts.com/index.htm

SHOPEYEWORLD....a French based company in Courbevoie, France
New glasses and spare frames in most every (all?) original Vaurnet styles.  Decent prices and free shipping if there are multiple purchases at once.  Hit or miss on the  speed of delivery though.  You'll need to be patient.   Typically $150 for the same Cat Eye Skilynx here but frames and some of the other Vuarnet lens tints can be had cheaper or on sale here occasionally.
http://stores.ebay.com/shopeyeworld 


I suspect Mugs would get a laugh  out of the fact Vuarnets are still around and that I'm suggesting here they are a good pair of glasses :)  But I am not pulling your leg.   And I'll remember to hang onto my pork chop!

POLARTEC ALPHA: New INSULATION

For those interested in such things this is a must read:

http://iceclimbingjapan.com/2012/12/07/polartec-alpha-insulation-alchemy/


I think many of the best possibilities using Polartec's Neoshell are still unheralded.

Now a new insulation?  Bravo!

If you can see a bigger picture, the future looks bright!

Real Time Wind map for the US.

Gotta thank JoJo for this one.

http://hint.fm/wind/