You either get it or you don't...

As December rolls by I have the urge to get back out on some ice, snow and into the alpine. But it hasn't always been that way. At one point I stopped alpine and ice climbing because so many friends had died doing it. I just didn't have the metal strength to continue in the game.

Too many good friends and relationships were gone like dry wood in a bonfire.
I turned to warm stone to keep my passion alive. And while I have almost none of those physical skills remaining today the mental strength gathered on hard rock now allows me to go back into the alpine or back to work in my shop on those off days when I would really prefer not to.

Tsunami, 5.11b R/X

But it has taken years and a lot of additional support to be where I am at now and be comfortable in my own skin.

Some of us go climbing to find out just how strong we are. And it generally has little to do with how many pull ups you can manage.

Rock climbing is a previous gift that now allows me to climb again in the alpine. But any form of climbing, work or sport can be your path.  Any activity where you choose to test yourself, checkers or may be just getting out of bed can be more than enough.

Hard rock climbing really has little to do physically with winter alpine climbing. But you either get the idea and style behind climbs like the B-Y and Tsunami or you don't.  

The video is great. Enjoy!




The Bachar Yerian 5.11c R/X from cole gibson on Vimeo.

Where did I come from?

If you are going to be reading the blog seems like a fair question that deserves an answer. Not every summit is listed here or every climb pictured here a success.  But simply where I have been.   And looking back some of what seems important to me today.



Canadian water ice, winter1972/73
On the top of Cascade waterfall here.









Deltaform, Canadian Rockies in 1975
This Mtn is still a passion of mine.  The N. Glacier and shortly after the 2nd ascent on Super Coulior.

North side of Deborah, Alaska range, May, 1976
with help from the AAC

FA, Central Pillar, N Face Temple July 1976 with Mike Eastburn, 16 hrs.

Early morning on the Eiger, Oct 1978
Prior to bailing later in the day

Polar Circus, Canadian Rockies 1980
a year later the 2nd one day ascent.
Now most do it rather casually in 5 hrs or less
from the road to the chains.

FA Yahoody, trad, .11b 1980  A big step for me in EBs and a swami belt.

Slipstream, 2nd ascent and 1st one day, in 7hrs. Canadian Rockies Jan 1981
with Gary Silver, RIP

My line on the 2nd solo of Edith Cavel after Royal Robbins, August 1981

7 hrs car to summit.

FA, Tsunami, trad 5.11b R,  the Selkirks 1986

1987 Solo Illusions/ FF combo, 5.11a, 4 pitches

FA Lingerie, trad, .12b 1987

FA UNI, trad .12b 1988

Which I had rated .11+

2006 solo of Polar Circus, seemingly a perennial classic for me.

Fun winter mixed in the Cascades, 2008



















Curtain Call, WI6, Canadian Rockies 2009
with Jack Roberts, RIP














2nd Ascent, Blue Moon vair. on Pineapple Express.
IV, AI3, M6, 5.9
Mtn. Snoqualmie, 2009  

The Alps, Winter/Spring, 2011

Fall and Winter of 2011

Stage IV Cancer survivor

Carlsberg

Canadian Rockies, Winter/Spring of 2012,  

Rt Hand WW

Winter/Spring 2013

March thru May, Spring 2014, '15, '16  back in Chamonix again skiing and climbing.

PC 1980

It is a low priority, work in progress, but more here:

http://firstascent-dane.blogspot.com/