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The cold world of skimo & alpine climbing

The cold world of skimo & alpine climbing

Thursday, June 2, 2011

Quick tour of my choice in biners....

In my "best of" list I mentioned a few biners that I think are stand outs. 

It has been a while but I haven't counted how many different styles and brands of carabiners I currently have.  It is more than six..  What I actually use is three or four styles and generally just two, maybe three on a regular basis.

I generally try to hold on to my gear so I have carabiners that go back a few years.  If you think super light and small 'biners are a "new deal" check some of these out.

The blue Latok mini biner is rated at  kN 1700 and weighs 28g.   The newest green Metolius mini is rated at kN 2200 @ 26g.

I have to agree with Colin Haley, who once described the Metolius by saying "they finally made a biner that is too small".   I have them.  I don't use either.

A biner I have used a lot is a bent gate.  One of the first imported into the US, the blue gate "New Alp" imported by Climb High from France in the late '70s is on the left.  Rated at kN 220 @ 56g.  I did most of my hard rock climbing with that biner on my rack.  The idea was a quick clip and it worked very well for that  purpose.  In the middle is a more recent bent gate by Black Diamond that I still use in some situations 19 kN @ 46g.    And on the right my current favorite the Trango Super Fly 30g and 24kN   

The runner up for my own use on the Trango is the BD Oz @ 30g as well and 20kN.  Pretty much the same size and feel.  BD is off on the numbers a bit but I use both on my rack now depending on the price they can be had at.

I use three locking biners depending on the required use.  Left to right, Trango 40g @ 24 kN, Black Diamond Gridlock 78g @ 22kN and the Mammut 78g and 24kN.

And I have a few I am still undecided on.   Trango on the left, a small Camp  @ 22g and 20kN and the new Petzl @ 30g and 20kN

And finally a carabiner that impressed me while we watched it being destroyed at the Grivel factory.
The hard anodized Grivel Yamma K2W biner, 34g and 27kN that is individually tested and serial numbered in production.  An extra 3 to 7 kN bmp in stregth is a big bump in all these lwt biners.   No quessing either as Grivel tests biners like this one to failure on a regular basis.

If nothing else I like consistency.  I find it annoying to climb with all sorts of differing sizes and styles of carabiners on my rack.  So I try not to, even if that means we use my rack a lot :-)


Anonymous said...

Two biners that I really like and that you haven't mentioned are the Petzl attache 3d locker (super light munter) and the WC Nitro (really light and a little bit roomier than the Oz).

Chris said...

I find the small Camp Nano's work for me but not all my partners. The Metolius mini is heavier and smaller so the test one I bought is on my chalk bag.

My big biner is the WC Helium.
My small biner is the Camp Nano.
My racking biners are color coded DMM phantoms.
My little and main lockers are Trango Superfly or from now on, Wild Country Neon (same size/weight but keylock)

I rack nuts/tricams on OP Dovals. I go back and forth on notch gate biners or notchless for nuts but the Dovals are a good size if you want the notch.

For belay biners, the only big locker I carry, I find the Petzl Attache or the cheap Metolius Element the best. I tried the Attache 3D as I got a free one and while it is a nice and light biner, they're smoking crack if they think it's as smooth as the other 2 on autoblock.

I've got other biners but if I have to buy any, these are my current favs.

Kurt Hicks said...

One more that is worth looking at is the new Camp Phantom. As light as the Oz (supposedly, i haven't weighed each), but is HUGE in comparison. It's going to be my go-to ice/winter carabiner this coming season.

Dane said...

DMM Phantom? And lighter than the Oz says DMM.

copper said...

Any new thoughts on your favorite biners for ice climbing?

Dane said...

Trango Super Fly is still my favorite.

copper said...


Dane said...

Yes, wire gates.