Mountain Photography

When I was a kid Gaston Rebuffat's photos (and writing) inspired me and literally drove me to explore the mountains.

I've grown up but never loss the thrill of  seeing Rebuffat's work.  Great mountain photography is like porn I suppose hard to define but you know it when you see it.

I am a huge fan of Chamonix based photographer and climber,  Jonathan Griffith's work.  How could a climber not be?  Jon, shares his photos and trip reports on his various web sites.  The content is good enough to get me back to Chamonix after being absent several decades.

http://www.alpineexposures.com/blogs/chamonix-conditions

And now he  offering an amazing opportunity with a Alpine Photography Course.

http://www.alpineexposures.com/blogs/chamonix-conditions/6143764-chamonix-photography-course

Just a big thumbs up for the guys who make the effort to document and share our way of life.

Some great STOKE!

WORD!

Yet to be verified but word is Colin Haley recently soloed Mt. Hunter's North Buttress, stopping just short of the true summit, specific route is unknown.  But Colin has done three different routes there in  previous seasons, the Bibler- Klewin, the French Gully and Deprivation.   (thanks for the update John)

"Next we geared up for an attempt of the Bibler-Klewin on Mt. Hunter's North Buttress (commonly and erroneously referred to as the "Moonflower Buttress"). First climbed in 1983 by Todd Bibler and Doug Klewin, this route snakes up an aesthetic line of ice streaks on the crest of the North Buttress."

Stunning solo obviously no matter what route or where he stopped high on the mtn.  But a nice tribute as well imo to his visit there climbing with Bjørn-Eivind Årtun.

Bjørn-Eivind Årtun leading the Shaft

photos courtesy of Colin Haley

http://colinhaley.blogspot.com/

"Shattered"

Climbing footware for a size 15 US foot

This is a guest blog from Climbing Guide, Ryan Stefiuk

More writing from from Ray can be found @ http://bigfootmountainguides.com/

All my life I've had “large” feet. Mine are long but narrow size 15's. When I started rock climbing in 1996 I didn't feel like there were too many good rock shoe options. Yes, I could choose from a few different models of entry-level FiveTen shoes, but on the whole I didn't feel like there were many choices.

For years I crammed my feet into any too-small shoe, thinking that a tight fit would help my climbing. Some tight-fitting shoes actually fit my long feet and helped me climb better. Others made me focus solely on the pain associated with edging and smearing, and I wanted nothing more than to throw those shoes away and go back to flopping my way up routes.

When I began ice climbing in 1998 I immediately hit a brick wall with boots. There was one option I knew about – the Lowa Civetta. They make the Civetta up to size 16. Whew. I was good to go. The Civettas carried me up many a route, albeit sloppily. They weren't the best boots for using you feet, even with good crampons. I suppose some of the slop was due to my lack of experience. The Civetta, however just didn't compare favorably to today's high-tech single and double boots.

I've been climbing for sixteen years now and my footwear situation doesn't seem quite so grim any longer. Over the years I've discovered what shoes come in large sizes, and what models fit best. In order to make other big-footed individual's lives easier I've compiled a list of the best footwear available. The quest to accommodate your Sasquatch-sized feet doesn't have to be as difficult as mine was.

Below I'm going to outline good footwear options for people who's feet are larger than size 13. If you have size 13 feet or smaller nearly all climbing footwear is readily available. If you have size 16 or larger feet you may just want to try barefoot waterskiing or basketball. Climbing footwear may be hard to find.

As someone who has big feet, there are several keys to finding the right footwear and keeping it in good shape. A good climbing shop will have some larger sizes in stock. An even better shop will have stock and be willing to order products too. Try on everything that's even remotely close to your size. You'll be surprised by what fits and what doesn't. Once you've found the right footwear take care of it. I resole nearly all my climbing shoes twice and my approach shoes once before retirement. It's important to resole shoes before they're in need of real T.L.C. If you blow a hole in the rand it might be too late. When the rubber gets thin send them in to be resoled.

ROCK SHOES

Nearly all shoe manufacturers make some shoes to size 15. Most now make multiple models. After repeatedly trying FiveTen shoes I've given up. The Italians make damn fine footwear, and their rock climbing shoes are no exception. If you're trying to fit shoes, most American climbing shoe manufacturers run a bit truer to size. I wear a 14 in most Five Ten, Mad Rock and Evolv shoes. I wear anywhere from a 12-14 in Scarpa and La Sportiva shoes (meaning many models fit me).

Here are the top picks from the current 2012 offerings:

La Sportiva Nago – My very long size 15.5 feet fit tightly into size 46 Nago's. Sized more comfortably, I would wear size 47. They're made to size 48. I'm not interested in any of the shoes produced by Sportiva outside of Europe. These entry level Italian-made shoes still climb reasonably well when sized properly.

La Sportiva Cobra, Miura, Katana, TC Pro – Believe it or not, size 46 (the largest size offered) in all of these shoes fit my feet and climb unbelievably well. The TC Pro's don't quite fit the way they're meant to fit, but they're still the most amazing edging shoes I've worn and they last a while. The others listed fit tightly, as they should, but not uncomfortably tightly.

La Sportiva Mythos – These stretch a ton and are made to size 48. I wear a 46 in these too.

Scarpa Techno – Scarpa might discontinue these. I like them and wear a size 47. These have been good trad shoes

Scarpa Helix, Reflex – One is a laceup, the other a slipper. These entry level shoes are nice as all-around shoes for moderate climbing and will stretch over time. I wear size 46 and they're tight. I guess someone with 17's could wear the 50 in the Helix and be comfy.

Scarpa Force – Another velcro offering from Scarpa, made to size 47. I tried these on and felt like a 47 would be adequate.

Mad Rock Flash – I've had three pairs of these cheap shoes and they climb really well. Once they stretch out they are comfortable enough. For gym climbing I like them. I wear size 14 and they are tight at first.

Evolv Defy – Another decent, cheap gym shoe. I wear a size 14 in these too. They're a bit softer than the Mad Rock Flash.

APPROACH SHOES

Lots of options here to size 48. Again, La Sportiva and Scarpa seem to take the cake for quality design and durable construction. Five Ten has a few models in large sizes too if you're into their products. Here are my choices from the 2012 offerings from these companies:

La Sportiva Boulder X – Size 48 fits my feet tightly at first. Some slight initial discomfort leads to a good fit for climbing and approaching without any foot slop inside the shoe. These shoes are durable and climb reasonably well.

Scarpa Geko Guide – Size 47 fits like a climbing shoe and eventually becomes comfortable for extended approaches. The Geko's are aggressive “climbing” style approach shoes. When sized tightly they'll actually climb as well as most entry-level climbing shoes. During a guided ascent of the 900' Community Pillar (III 5.9) in Red Rocks last fall I wore them the whole time and my feet thanked me later in the day.

Scarpa Zen, Mystic, Dharma Pro – All of these shoes are built on a similar last and should fit similarly. They're all built to size 48. These stiff shoes require a bit of breaking in but outlast most others. They won't climb the same way that the Geko or Boulder X will.

Scarpa Crux – Also made to size 48, I've worn several older versions of this shoe, and despite a lining that accumulates an awful stench (a theme I've noticed across many Scarpa shoes), these shoes climb well, hike reasonably and are affordable. They'll probably hold a resole just fine too.

MOUNTAIN BOOTS

Well, options abound for rock shoes. Approach shoes to a lesser degree. Large-footed individuals have far fewer options when it comes to mountain boots. Most boots are made to size 13 or 14. My feet hate me. I spent too many years in size 48 Nepal Extreme and Nepal EVO. Just this past year I did a complete upgrade to size 49 Nepal Extreme and size 49 Baruntse mountain boots.

When searching for boots in large sizes it's best to search a company's full website. Many internet search engines will redirect you to a company's North America site, but to find the most accurate sizing information you'll have to look on the European websites. In addition, most boots larger than size 48 are going to come from Europe and may take a long time to order and ship.

Scarpa Phantom 6000 – These boots are made up to size 49 in Europe but only offered to size 48 in the U.S. I haven't used them but I'm curious about them - they're a lightweight double boot with a built in gaiter.

La Sportiva Nepal Extreme - Most of us haven't seen a Nepal Extreme on a store shelf in several years. They're still made in Europe but the more popular Nepal EVO GTX is the only Nepal offering in the states. These incredibly well made boots come in sizes up to 50 and need to be special ordered from Europe. The build quality actually seems better than that of EVO GTX.

La Sportiva Baruntse - These boots are made to size 50 and stocked in the United States, meaning you can order them and have them delivered in less than a week. These boots climb well and are very warm. They're going to work for just about any mountain region below 8000m and are suitable for cold weather winter use. They're like a double boot version of the Nepal, meaning they're durable and functional.

Lowa Civetta - These boots have traditionally been made to U.S. size 16. They're warm and have stood the test of time in the greater ranges of the world. The addition of an Intuition liner makes these boots warmer and easier to maintain. However, in my opinion they won't compare favorably to newer models double boot models like the Baruntse and Phantom 6000, which have flexible outer shells and come with a stock thermoform liner.

Do you have suggestions or other good large footwear options for climbers? Post a comment below and I'll be sure to add the information to this post, which will also become a page on my site, bigfootmountainguides.com so that it's easier to find.

Double boots (climbing specific) Part One the Baruntse

I seem to write a lot about boot.  Originally the big reason for that is I have a hard time getting a good fit in any boot and secondly I really don't like cold feet.  I have few boots that fit me really well, were warm enough and were as light as I thought they should be.

Don't make the mistake of thinking this is a recent problem that is just effecting the current  generation of Alpinists.  It isn't.  I had similar thoughts back in the 70's.  And I am sure others had similar thoughts long before I and my friends did then.

No question we have the chance to climb in some really nice boots these days.  Still the trick is to get the lightest weight boot possible that still offers the required protection from the cold and you keep the ability to climb hard in the boots.

The bigger the boot (volume wise) likely the warmer it will be.  And the worse the fit and the less likely it will climb technical ground with ease.  Ease compared to a pair of "more technical" single boots.  The reason a good single boot will be "more technical" is it can fit your foot tighter and give you a more precise fit.   Generally a single boot will do so by having less insulation in the boot upper and the laces can snug the boot around your foot easier for a better fit.

Just as we have all adopted slipper style rock shoes for a better feel of the rock, most Alpinists when they are able with the temperatures will adopt a light weight (lwt) single boot for technical ice and mixed climbing.

It is no surprise that lighter weight and more sensitive footwear have allowed us all to climb harder in any climbing venue be it hard rock or hard mixed.  The one caveat is still "the cold".

Two ways to dress for the cold.  Dress to insulate you from the cold and what ever physical out put you think is required that will still keep you warm when not active.  Or dress to the physical output you aspire too and hope you can maintain a pace to keep you warm in that system.

One is the safe and conservative bet.  It also means you will carry more.  The other is Russian Roulette with your toes.   Make a miscalculation and you will spend some down time from climbing while your feet heal up.

The result of a miscalculation at 7000' in Dec. Cascades 

If everything goes perfectly on an alpine climb generally even in winter in the Alps or NA, a double boot isn't required.  There are so many really good "super gaiter" styled single boots available now almost any of them will get you through most winter climbing with no cold injuries.   Unless of course things go wrong......

Double boots are really made for the knowledgeable Alpinist, that knows eventually, things won't go as planned.

Double boots aren't the best answer to Immersion foot.  That is generally a educational effort that may  be best prevented by prior knowledge and proper foot care, pre trip, during the trip and post trip.

More on Immersion foot here:

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/06/immersion-foot.html

There are three likely places you'll hurt get your feet hurt from a cold injury, dehydration, belays, storms, bivies.

Belays are a given in hard technical terrain.  Dehydration doesn't need to be.  Get on a climb that is out of shape/condition or harder than your current skill level and you may well spend longer there than first anticipated.   Storms are a given in the mountains.  The weather forecasting now is a lot better than it was a few decades ago.  Take advantage of that fact.  Bivies?  Have the right bivy gear for the conditions.  Learn first hand that you really need to unlace your boots, if not get the shells off completely is a good idea on a cold bivy (or any bivy).  The increased circulation from just unlacing your boots will help fend off Immersion Foot and/or Frostbite.

Food for thought anyway.  Lots of reasons to wear a double boot.  The ease of which you can climb technical ground in them is not one.

This series of blogs will hopefully give a better overview of the 4 double boots that currently dominate much of the world market and certainly dominates the North American market.   Weights listed are from my postal scale for one size 45 boot, not a pair.

La Sportiva Spantik 3#.05oz / 1362g
La Sportiva Spantik with a Baruntse liner  2# 12oz / 1247g

La Sportiva Baruntse 3#4oz / 1470g

Scarpa Phantom 6000 new 2010 model 2#10oz / 1190g

La Sportiva Olympus Mons 3#6oz/ 1530g

Lets start the discussion with my favorite boot of the bunch:

The La Sportiva Baruntse

Better yet let's start with what I think is wrong with La Sportiva's Baruntse.   It really irks me when a company comes up with a incredible design and then for what ever reason (cost, model line appropriate) dummies down the product.  If you are a Porsche fanatic the Cayman and 911 projects easily come to mind.   The Cayman is an incredible car but limited by Porsche so it won't compete directly with the 911.  So what you get is a dummied down Cayman.

The Baruntse is too heavy.  Simple as that it is too heavy.   Easy way to make it lighter?  Carbon mid sole used on the newest Batura and the Oly Mons, and the Spantik.   Ditch the big lug Vibram sole for the lighter, stickier and shallow lug of the Vibram Mulaz.

Not just my thoughts but those of a number of the Cold Thistle readers:

"Do you have any insight into whether La Sportiva will produce an "Evo" model of

the Baruntse?  I would think that could be an ideal double boot:

Start with the Baruntse but use a Carbon Fiber insole (instead of Ibi-thermo) 
and make the TPU midsole thinner/lighter (same as the Batura 2.0).  Use Vibram 
Mulaz soles instead of the thick and heavy Montagna sole.  Make the inside 
height about 5mm higher at the toes.  Make the rear boot strap loop larger, and 
sew it at a 3rd place to the top of the cuff.  (Alternately, attach one end of 
rear boot strap to top of the stretch cuff.)  Use single rivet lace hooks on the 
shaft to reduce weight.  Inner boot: no changes!
 
If you have any contacts within La Sportiva, please pass these suggestions 
along.  I expect these changes could easily save half a pound in the weight of a 
pair of these double boots."

So it is not just me thinking the Baruntse is too heavy and that the Bareuntse could easily be the basis for the best traditional double boot ever built.  It is hard to see the technology available at La Sportiva to build a better Baruntse and also seeing that technology left on the drawing room table. 

OK, enough bitching.  What is right about the Baruntse?  All of these boots has advantages and disadvantages over the other 3 double boots I've listed.

I don't think anyone will argue that the Baruntse (manufactured by Palua, France) liner is the best of the bunch.  It has a super easy lace system and more importantly is "easily" heat formable for a perfect fit.  The outer shell's lacing system on the Baruntse is time proven and very simple.   A simple, traditional double boot lace system.  I have not heard of a lace failure on this boot.  between the exceptional inner boot and the easy to lace outer shell you will generally end up with an exceptional fitting boot.  And one that will climb exceptionally well despite the extra bulk and volume needed to keep you feet warm on even Denali without an overboot. 

The result is a highly technical and super warm boot that climbs exceptionally well on ice mixed and rock.

I think it is best to look at the La Sportiva Nepal Evo when making fit and performance comparisons to the Baruntse.

So yes if you like the Nepal Evo or the previous Nepal Top, you will likely be thrilled with the fit and performance of the Baruntse.   The Baruntse is simply, in my opinion, a super cold weather version of the Nepal Evo.  And I make that comparison with all due respect.  The Nepal Evo is one of the most technical alpine climbing boots in the world today.  Could the Baruntse be better?  Sure it could.  If it were better (read lighter in weight) it would be the only double boot I own.  The Baruntse offers the best fit and most support of all the double boots I have listed.   It is also priced at the low end of all the double boots I have listed.  Performance and cost advantages.  Makes one wonder about the weight doesn't it?

There are other posts here @ Cold Thistle on the Baruntse.  "Baruntse" in the search function should get you that info.  Including earlier pair of boots I did add the Mulaz sole to and drop a few oz.

But I'll leave you with a great video where the Baruntse (and the Scarpa 6000) were used on a quick ascent of Denali with no over boots.  More to come on the Spantik, 6000, and Oly Mons.

<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/26046094" width="500" height="281" frameborder="0" webkitAllowFullScreen mozallowfullscreen allowFullScreen>iframe>

Arc’teryx Alph FL Review

"The abseil off the Aiguille Du Midi Bridge into the Cunningham Couloir"

Nice Toque there Dave!

Arc’teryx Alph FL Review by Dave Searle.

I’m not really a huge fan of waterproofs for climbing being as most of the time I don’t climb in the rain.  As Mark Twight eloquently put it in Extreme Alpinism “if its raining in the mountains, you should just go home”.   I agree.  However summer alpinism isn’t that predictable and more times than I can count I have had a good drenching on the walk out.

When I first laid my hands on the Alpha FL I knew it was going to be a winner and is probably going to accompany me on lots of my alpine adventures.   I have been using it for a few months now ski touring and steep skiing and it’s worked really well.  It really is no frills. No pit zips, only one generous chest pocket, no wired hood and even the zip pulls are just  bit of coloured dental floss!  It doesn’t even have a zip gutter on the main zip because the zip itself is waterproof enough.  I was a bit worried that the zip might not stand up to serious windy wet weather but to be honest I don’t really care.  Wind is one thing and rain is another but together and you wouldn’t see me leaving the house for much more than a dash to the shops.  If, however, I was climbing in Scotland and I knew it was going to be grim (which it normally is) then I might pack something a bit more bombproof but that’s not what this jacket is trying to achieve.  Even then I still think I would grab the Alpha FL because it has a good balance of being burly without all that extra useless stuff….like hand warmer pockets.   Who needs hand warmer pockets when either climbing or belaying? I don’t and I think if you ask yourself then you’ll probably agree you don’t either.  Extra unnecessary weight for sure.  Ueli agrees…..

Three layer Goretex in it's own stuff sack.

Active shell is gore’s most breathable fabric and it hasn’t let me down so far.  I’ve yet to reach the point of thinking “I wish I had pit zips” without just whipping it off and shoving it in the tiny stuff sack provided.  The outer fabric on the Alpha Fl seems pretty sturdy to.  Not a mark on it after tree skiing and scrabbling about on granite for a few months, the two things which are guaranteed to end the life of a lightweight waterproof prematurely. 

The hood is good and it of course fits over a helmet well and reduces down on a bare head neatly. The chin piece isn’t as high as some other jackets I’ve seen but it still covers enough.  As I said it doesn’t have a wired peak but it is stiff enough for that not to matter.   The arm articulation is great, the sleeves don’t ride up my arms at all and the hem stays put.  Exposed waist and wrists is a common problem I face with jackets due to my disproportionately long arms.

So it’s not the lightest waterproof jacket in the world at 295g but it isn’t that far behind either!  I defy any sub 250g jacket to withstand half of what I have put this jacket through in two months.  A little extra weight can go a long way in durability for sure.  Definite thumbs up from me here.   Oh and purple is the new green I have been informed. J

Dave using the Alpha FL in the Cunningham Couloir 

Vince Anderson Interview?

 
From Morten Johansen.  You can listen to it here:

http://dbkk.dk/images/stories/Vince/vince%20anderson.mp3

Crazy snow year in Chamonix!

The Access Fund?

Please excuse the weird formatting here.  For the life of me I couldn't get this letter to appear correctly on the blog.  Message is good though and worth a look. cheers, Dane

"Dear Climbers,

I’ve had the opportunity and pleasure to climb freely in the Red River Gorge. 

This beautiful area boasts a plethora of world-class climbs from easier moderatesto top-notch challenges, including one of my latest achievements—Pure Imagination5.14d.

Whether you’re climbing 5.6 or 5.14, the Access Fund needs the help of climbers 

like us to ensure that there are always places available for us to push our 

limits and to enjoy the great outdoors.

I am writing to encourage you to join the Access Fund—the national advocacy organization that keeps climbing areas open and conserves the climbing environment. Today the Access Fund has over 10,000 members (climbers just like you and me) and affiliates whose support helps protect America’s climbing. This year, they’ll host more than 160 climbing trail and crag cleanup days, and lobby on federal, state, and locallevels to ensure continued access to climbing on public lands. They will also work with private landowners to preserve access to the areas we all love to climb—like the Red River Gorge.

*But there’s more to do.* Become a member of the Access Fund today and be a part ofthe largest climbing advocacy movement in America. For $35, you’ll join the ranks of climbers who respect the land, and our sport. And, thanks to the generous 

support of my sponsor, Petzl, you’ll get a FREE Attache locking carabiner, while 

supplies last! Just enter *Promo Code PETZL04.

The Access Fund exists for you. 

And your membership makes all the difference. Please join today.

Thanks in advance for your support, and welcome!"

See you out
there,

Sasha DiGiulian
Access Fund Member & Sponsored Athlete

P.S. Enter *Promo Code PETZL04* to receive your FREE locking biner!

How is your French?

Climbing pack in Cham?

More on climbing packs from Dave Searle in Chamonix.   Call it a Euro perspective :)  Thanks Dave!

With the recent Cold Thistle theme being centred around climbing packs I thought I’d put in a word or to as well. 

Last year and the year before my climbing pack was the Black Diamond RPM 26.  It was more or less the ideal Chamonix climbing pack and served me well on many good days out from big north faces to sunny rock climbing and hauling 25litres of water on training runs.  Its simple clean design, low weight and smart features where a real winner.  The material is good, tough enough to withstand granite chimneys (cheese graters) without being too heavy.  With two side pockets and a small lid pocket stashing gloves and snacks is easy and with a simple yet effective draw cord compression on the front shedding a layer is easy to.  It was however difficult to carry a rope on the outside (necessary if your packing bivy stuff) and the zip top closure was slightly worrying.  I never had any problems but when the teeth start to sit funny it’s pretty scary to think it could burst open at any time landing you in deep trouble. 

I have recently replaced the BD with a Blue Ice Warthog 26.  26 litres seems to me to be the perfect size for a climbing pack out here in Chamonix.  If you need anything bigger you’re either doing something wrong or something very hard!  The only time I needed a bag bigger last year was on my failed attempt on the Desmaison/Gouseault with would have required two bivi’s on the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses.

I much prefer the lid system on the Warthog which makes carrying a rope a breeze with the separate strap and the helmet carrier is a great idea to, something that the RPM was missing . The Ice ace loops are simple but work really well.  I have even jerry rigged the Rope carrying strap combined with a ski strap through the lower Ice Axe loop to make a rudimentary but effective ski carrying system.  It worked fine with my 108 waisted ski’s and held the ski’s in the perfect cross carry position for bootpacking. 

The material on the Warthog is tougher and a lot more durable so it should last longer than my RPM and also would take the odd hauling session if required.   The removable light waist belt is good to (the same as the RPM).  I never climb with a waist belt but it is good to have one for those long slogs up to the bottom of the Jorasses. 

The quality of Warthog is superb too.  It’s still going strong after half a season of use and abuse without any signs of wear.  I’m looking forward to giving it as much use and seeing how it fairs!

Climbing Packs part 4

Steve House on the N. Face of Alberta, April of 2008

Custom CCW pack made to order.  photo courtesy of Vince Anderson 

http://www.skywardmountaineering.com/

Screen snap shot from a video featuring Colin Haley in the Spring of 2011, Chamonix,

Patagonia prototype pack, no lid.  Same pack Colin and Mikey Shaefer used on Devil's Thumb.  And the pack Colin used in lectures for show and tell here in Seattle. 

http://colinhaley.blogspot.com/2010/08/devils-thumb-diablo-traverse.html

http://www.colinhaley.blogspot.com/

http://vimeo.com/23577174

This is the last blog in a 4 part series on climbing packs.  It really isn't fair of me to emphasize the fact of just how good basic packs are with pictures of Steve House, Colin Haley, Vince Anderson and Mikey Schaefer all using similar type packs for their own climbing.  There are dozens of other pack manufactures out there and lots of extremely good alpinists using much more complicated packs.  I have nothing to gain from promoting these simple pack ideas.  And the same pack ideas were around when I started climbing, long before Twight, House or Haley began their own adventures.   

But these guys are picky about their own gear and can use or have anything they want made.  Which for me means it is likely worth paying attention from time to time to what they are using.

You need to look close in the left hand margins of this picture but Vince Anderson's pack on Alberta is there as well.

Steve with the lid on while on Alberta.

photos courtesy of Vince Anderson

http://www.skywardmountaineering.com/

But the pack style isn't just for the super stars.  Here is another set of packs I mentioned previous.  Stock CCW Ozone on the left in red ballistics cloth and a custom CCW climbing pack on the right in the Spectra grid.  Good side by side size comparison for volume. 

packs and photo courtesy of Ryan@bfmgs

http://bigfootmountainguides.com/2012/04/13/the-perfect-climbing-pack/

More here:

http://www.larsonweb.com/backpacks/id1.html

And finally two more custom CCWs.  My stripped version that weights in at 22oz.    My point here is don't believe the ad hype.  When you start looking at climbing pack weights  make sure you actually weigh your choices or go to someone you can trust to give you the weights.  I have listed most of the major players in the blog at some point.  

Five, 60 meter ropes in this one and 30#

Even at 22oz my custom version is a amazingly tough in Spectra and not a tiny pack.

Nastia's  new, custom version of the Ozone with a 17" back sewn up in Spectra ripstop with compression straps, crampon patch and straps with a lid attached on the left.   It weighs in at 28oz with the lid, removable foam back pad and all.   Nastia's  custom Ozone is a much smaller pack than my 21"  backed custom CCW.  Which makes perfect sense as I am 6'1" and she is 5'4".

In the alpine, where this style of pack excels. 

Photo courtesy of OlegV

Michael Wejchert's  custom Cold Cold World Ozone loaded for late-season ice climbing.  "Inside are boots, extra layers, two water bottles, and my puffy. Under the lid are my crampons and helmet. I love how the lid stretches to accommodate a helmet or rope." 

Lid in the pack..easy. 

The tool attachment system: shock cord, essentially. Four bar-tacked tabs give some options for ice tools or a foam pad for single-push climbs and the like. Randy made sure the tabs were big enough for carabiners also. Totally removable for summertime rock climbing.

More here on Michael's custom version:

http://www.farnorthclimbing.blogspot.com/2012/04/company-next-door.html

Le Fil a Plomb

Gorrilla's in the Mist..alpine rock

Low Impact Training?

FYI..I am not a coach and don't pretend to be.  I'm going to share some training observations here that work for me related to climbing.  They may or may not work for you.  The  fitness comments I make are just the tiny tip of the iceberg on training.  To train and get stronger you really need to educate yourself on the subject and all that it incorporates.   Or do both and climb!  Climb a lot!    Because I don't "climb a lot", I train.  I typically train to my weaknesses, endurance and physical strength.  You have to know what you want from the training first, to get what you need out of the training.

For most who will read this with some interest it is likely because "high impact" training hurt or has injured you previous.

I have never been a big runner.  But I have ran and I do run now.  But for most running on pavement will tear you up given enough miles.  Running on pavement is rough on everything from joints to tendons.  Well it at least tears me up, has in the beginning as a teenager and does now in middle age.  Hilly trail running (which can be a lot more "dangerous") for me is a lot softer impact sport.  I am forced into a forefoot strike instead of a heel strike and the surface is generally a lot more forgiving.  Not to say it isn't easier to trip and bust your ass or an ankle running trails instead of you local high school track, paved trails or the side streets.  And you can run with a forefoot strike anywhere once you learn (relearn?) the skill.

Foot strike is important.
more here on foot strike:

http://barefootrunning.fas.harvard.edu/1WhyConsiderFootStrike.html

http://barefootrunning.fas.harvard.edu/4BiomechanicsofFootStrike.html

But running is not a low impact sport.  Generally you learn early on if you can run.  You either don't get injured running or you do and it becomes a problem trying to keep running.  I am good up to 1/2 marathon distances both for racing and training.  At full marathon distances my body is telling me the mileage and the race efforts are just too much.   I don't have a runner's body at 200# and 6'1" so no surprise.  But even at 180# marathon distances still hurt and take a long time to fully recover from.  Too long if I want to climb during the summer and the risk of injury training, just too great.

So I limit how much running I do.  But there are two low impact sports I try to do a lot of.  I really like them both simply because I have been doing them for as long as I can remember.  Swimming and riding a bike.

And in a controlled environment I don't have to worry about dying doing either.  Both are mindless activities the majority of time for me.  But not always if you up the environmental hazards.  And with even a tiny bit of care neither will hurt you significantly physically even during hardest work outs.

And the fourth sport is Skiing.  Downhill on the lifts, back country and side country on 3 pin gear and Skimo gear.  It is all skiing to me.  And like the bike or swimming something I have been doing a long time.

Here is where I start to define what I want from my training. If you don't know what you want from your exercise efforts you'll likely never get what you want from your exercise efforts.

Running Goals?  (running is always training for the mtns eventually)
Olympic and Sprint Tri racing
1/2 IM race finishes
trail running for endurance
uphill running to simulate and strengthen my climbing

Bike goals? (biking is always training for something)
200+ mile days (road bike)
Tri and TT racing
endurance days in the mtns = endurance days on the bike

Swimming goals? (swimming is generally training for swimming/tris)
IM distance swims
Sprint and Oly distance races
relaxation

Skiing goals (skiing is generally for fun but sometimes it is to better my skills or training for endurance)
technical or steep skiing
endurance days in the mtns
relaxation

And then there is number FIVE which is also low impact
Rock/Ice climbing or crag climbing goals?
get stronger physically as a climber for the mtns or to just up my abilities on tech terrain

Back to the "Principle of Specificity"
But I know why and how I train.  Do you?

You can never be too strong, too rich or too pretty :)    Which is why others advocate the benefits of a crossfit or similar strength training programs.  I don't generally partake but I suggest others do for the obvious benefits to be gained.

Converts?

One of the most personally satisfying things I get to see from Cold Thistle is the guys/gals out climbing every day taking some of the ideas I write about and making them their own.  No greater compliment to me.  I am thrilled that anything I write or suggest actually gets rethought and used.

Here is one that popped up on my blog radar this morning.  Very cool pack Ryan had made up :)   And a great blog!

http://bigfootmountainguides.com/2012/04/13/the-perfect-climbing-pack/

barefoot running?

I often get emails asking what I do to get fit and/or stay fit.  As I work on my own recovery and try to get to a level of fitness I now find acceptable I have to ask myself that same question.   This will be the first in a long series of blog posts that will answer some of that question for the readers here and what I find of interest (but may or may not agree with) for my own training.  The easy answer is always the best, pick your own poison and then just go climbing!


It is called the "Principle of Specificity".
More here:

http://sportsmedicine.about.com/od/glossary/g/Specificity_def.htm

Not everyone gets to climb every day.


The Truth about Barefoot Running

Why barefoot running is not suited for the average runner.


By G.S.Seltzer
http://triabilitycoach.com/


Perhaps you are familiar with the barefoot running craze, started by the book Born to Run by Author Christopher McDougall. Perhaps you have been thinking about giving barefoot running a try. Many run and triathlon coaches recommend running barefoot to some degree on a soft surface, such as grass, to help improve your running mechanics. Most experts agree however, that running barefoot most of the time is neither safe nor practical.


Reality Check


Although great in theory, running barefoot is not for everyone. Raise your hand if you came across any barefoot runners in any race you ran in the last year. The good news is that the running shoe industry is taking note of the interest in barefoot running and minimalist shoes. Minimalist shoes, or minis, are lightweight because they have few bells and whistles, such as built up heels that many experts claim make our legs and feet weaker, causing injury. Shoes like Vibrams provide a barefoot ride and feel, while providing some protection against puncture wounds from debris and road rash.


The Reality


Running barefoot is dangerous for the vast majority of runners for two main reasons. First, rocks, twigs, glass, and other debris will likely cause injury at some point. Second, the muscles and joints of the legs and feet typically are weak because we wear shoes continuously. Some runners attempt to eradicate this, running a few miles each week barefoot, performing foot and leg strengthening exercises, and walking barefoot in and around the house. Running stride drills barefoot on grass, the track, or at the beach are good examples. Strong feet provide a solid platform for the body to ride upon – weak feet do not. Start out slow focusing on your form will help you prevent injury.


Barefoot Running Does Have its Place


If you are determined to take barefoot running to the road here are a few considerations. Start slowly until your calves, arches, and Achilles tendons adjust. Increase the distance slightly each week, and listen to your body if you experience aches or pains as mentioned above. Run on a smooth, soft surface. When transitioning to hard surfaces, such as the road, try using minimalist shoes, which are low to the ground, lightweight, and provide the feel of being barefoot. Vibram, New Balance, Nike, and Newton Running make some of the better-known minimalist shoes.


Final Thoughts


If you are prone to injury using running shoes, running barefoot is not likely to change that; if you do not get injured often in running shoes, than why change? Trade in your heavy, clunky shoes with the anti-sway this, and the heavily cushioned that for a pair of minimalist shoes. Trade your heel strike for a mid-foot strike and rejoice at the results. Allow for a proper transition, and seek a qualified run or triathlon coach for assistance. The time and resources invested will be well worth it in the end.


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Gregg Seltzer is a certified USA Cycling and Triathlon coach, as well as strength and conditioning trainer. Gregg owns Triability Coaching, based in Southern California. Contact Gregg via email at gregg@tri-ability.com or phone at 800.884.2194.
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The photos below are of my HRM  on a short hilly run intentionally done right at my lactate threshold pace.   Like weighing your climbing gear it is hard to know where you are really at unless you measure it.  In this case the easy way to measure performance (and performance changes) is with a heart rate monitor (HRM).

It is officially Spring here!

My buddy Sol on some fun local rock.  Enjoy!