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The cold world of skimo & alpine climbing

The cold world of skimo & alpine climbing

Friday, March 20, 2026

Black Crow Camox '25-'26

Black Crow photo




Some background?  There are several places in the Chamonix valley that off piste skiers hang out at the end of the day. In town it is the Elevation with an outside ski rack. Just outside the ice cream parlor below the train station with a railing fence that has skis stacked on it daily. And forced into a crowded train ride back from the tours that drop down to the train coming back from Vallorcine at the upper end of the valley. If you are a gear geek any given winter season you can generally notice one brand of ski showing up a lot.  Over the 30 years I have been skiing in the Valley the brand and skis change almost seasonally. 

Almost.

The last 10 years I've been seeing Black Crowns gather more and more customers.  To the point the "green" ski is very common being used by men. The "red" ski, more common being used by women, and more recently the "pink" ski being used by either if you can make out a gender as they scream by at Mach1!

Before anyone gets all hot about me labeling the red ski a "girl's" ski it is just my observation from what I saw while in Chamonix last winter. If you know the colors Black Crow uses on their skis they are all very distinctive. Nothing more.  Nothing less.  When I started wondering what the bright red ski was, I almost 100% of the time saw the ski was in a woman's hand or just as likely on a woman's ski pack. At that point knowing almost nothing of Back Crow skis I began to assume the "red ski" was a woman's specific ski. 

No matter the optics in the Valley or the advertising blitz, boy did I have that wrong!

I've generally been a huge fan of 100 +/- ski under foot for almost all of my skiing the last decade. Last 3 or 4 years I have bumped that up some, to 105 +/- and been happy enough.  That said with skis up to 138 under foot in my quiver for the blower days that seem to become less and less common even if you are willing to chase storms across several states.



The is more to the story on widths. But it isn't the story today. Yesterday I unpacked a new pair of 183cm Camox.  Then took the time to clean them and add DPS' excellent Phantom base prep. It is a long-lasting, high-performance base "wax".  But not a wax at all. I've found more than worth the effort, cost and time.

This morning, in a hurry, I mounted a set of Dynafit race toes and Plum heels. And off I went for some expected sloppy spring skiing at Bogus.  It was 47F at 8am on the hill! Ice (which surprised me) in the shade on the first few runs. Fair size water puddles just getting off the lifts. It was slush two hrs later. And I had skied just under 11K feet of vert in 10 miles according to my Slopes phone app.  Not much. But enough to get a good feel for the skis in Spring conditions. Skis could have been a little better on the blue water ice.  But what ski at 95mm couldn't be?  By the time the slush was starting to get heavy and moved around the skis were showing me just how stable they were cruising the groomers at 30mph. Mind you this is supposed to me a 95mm back country ski, not a yoyo ski. And I was skiing as hard as do any ski.  I wasn't even remotely disappointed at the Camox's performance. In the 183.8cm size I was skiing they come in at 1570g/1575g per ski.  My long time, go to Dynafit Denalis (which are pretty dang light) are 99cm under foot and 1325/1332g per ski.  The Corvus are more stable, easier to ski, every bit aa quick under foot, have a good bit more tail support and are simply more fun in every way except maybe while being carried on your back.



I've always loved super light skis. Dynafit has made some.  I have a full quiver of Movement skis that still are.  But for the little added weight, the entire line of back country skis from Black Crow has really upped my skiing fun from the super light skis.  But that is another story that needs to be told.  The Camox?  It aint just a "girl's ski" ;-) I might even snag an extra pair of 171cm just to carry around!

Charlie touring in the Argentière basin and definitely not on what most would consider a "touring" ski!




The Camox on the Italian side of the Mer de Glace
.
Black Crow photo

Things are changing some at Black Crows for next season '26-'27.  Worth looking again as they drop some weight in the Freebird line and change up what is under foot a bit.



FWIW?  I am not on a Pro deal with Black Crow and no one supports me here financially.  I typically sort through Ebay and online shopping to find end of the season deals on skis I want to try and write about.  And why my comments are usually but not always at least one year behind the times ;-)   I have become a big fan of the entire line of Black Crow skis over the last two seasons.  If you are looking, one dealer located here in Idaho (who is located 500 miles north of me) that I have found to be easy to deal with and generally carries a full line of Black Crow skis is,  "Two Wheeler Ski Dealer",  Two Wheeler & Ski Dealer | Hayden, ID | Keeping North Idaho Pedaling for Over 24 Years    Ask for Brenda ;-)  

Wednesday, September 17, 2025

LWT boots from Scarpa and La Sportiva? 2025

 

The late, Ueli Steck, in the lwt alpine footwear and crampons of his design 


"Sometimes they are approach shoes.  Sometimes they are runaway shoes?"   J. Lind

One of my first real climbing adventures back in the early '70s was walking in for a couple of hours to a moderate technical rock climb.   Back then 2 hours from the end of the road seemed like a serious trip.  We carried moderate sized packs, dress in wool knickers and heavy leather boots for the bit of steep, hard snow we would traverse along the way.   



As the years went by, I made that same trip many, many times from early Spring and lots of slushy snow to the first snowstorms in the Fall.  By Fall I wished a couple of times that I was somewhere else as we navigated by memory huge talus fields of slippery granite boulders, wishing I was somewhere else.

40 years pasted in a blink of the eye.  Where we had grand adventures all kitted up to tackle any alpine adventure turned in afternoon larks for the walk in.  No more heavy leather boots more likely just runners of one sort or another, shorts, a cotton shirt and different levels of success and entertainment.  All that eventually lead to a forgotten pair of runners and reluctantly walking in with only a pair of flip flops on my feet.  Doable and really not much of a strain much to my surprise. Good for a laugh now!

One trip does stand out in retrospect from the mid to late '70s.  As we were slogging up hill and occasionally post holing into my crouch in the wet Spring snowpack, a couple of locals were running out the same trail, lightly clothed and wearing tiny day packs.   What really impressed me was one of guys was wear a pair white, with green strips, Adidas Rom.  A lwt leather court/running shoe if I remember correctly.  They stopped for a moment to chat, and I just had to ask!  What is up with "the runners" in all the snow?  Turns out he was also kitted up in some of the first Gore-Tex sox.  I just had to laugh.  I was sure THAT would never work! Little did I know.   

Since then, without Gore-Tex sox, I have worn typical runners to 21K feet on Aconcagua with ease in good weather.  And may times worn runners to 11K' on Rainier from mid-July to early Sept.    

Not far from that "first adventure" hike is another opportunity for a few days out for fun.  This one is a day along ridge traverse for most, that can be done either going north or south.  Just a bit of technical climbing on the ridge line going either way.  But a very fun approach to start either line is up a good bit of 4th class rock of the small granite dome call the "Beehive" for the shape of feature.

The fun starts right at the dome's edge.  Enough 4th class rock you sure don't want a misplaced step.  And a place a comfortable pair of rock shoes might really be appreciated for the first 15 minutes of so.  And again, if you miss the easiest way up the dome a few minutes later.

A few decent climbers have found their trusty "approach shoes" really weren't all that good on this particular "approach".  My first trip ended up forever changing the fit of my pair runners.  So much slab climbing literally turned he shoe on my foot.   They were OK that day out but never the same again.  Sticky soles but not enough support on the upper to take that abuse of 1000' of easy 4th class slab climbing most of it splayed out or side hilling.  Dually noted for the future. 

I don't remember what shoes I used the second time out and going south.   But I would have remembered if I had wrecked another pair of shoes. 

The 3rd time I went old school, which worked out almost perfectly for the entire day.  But as much fun as an old school rock shoe was for the short technical bit of traverse if really wasn't the ideal footwear.   A decent running with sticky rubber and good support would be better, I think.  Lots of good approach shoes out now that can do 2 of the three.  Want to add crampons?  Typically, we all came up short until recently.   But none of the shoes I've been in have been able to do it all at even a mediocre level.  On occasion I imagined such a shoe but never though anyone would market it.  I always thought they would be way too specialized to ever make a profit on, even in my wildest imagination.

More to come.......




You know you are on to something fun in a hiking 'boot', when the first time you touch rock, you wonder, "how tight/small can I fit these things and still walk all day in them?!"









   

Saturday, May 17, 2025

DPS, Movement, La Sportiva, Black Crow ski, 102mm to 107mm under foot, from '24/'25






Post script:  Jan 21, 2026
For most of us in the NW US there has been little snow.  I had all these skis by late spring last year but even then, snow left early in my normal late spring haunts.   I was able to spend some time on the Movements and the DPS prior.  But it surely wasn't the amount of time I wanted.   But no time on the La Sportivas and the Black Crows until this Jan or '26.  Even then I was able to get in  170K vertical feet last year by this time and only 94K vertical feet so far this year.  Dismal at best.  The Tempos from La Sportiva have been interesting skis on hard packed snow and ice.  The previous years ski (orange) more fun than the super lwt, current (black) version in the terrible snow conditions I've had to date.  All that was as expected frankly just by the skis weight.   No snow or simply really hard now and ice simply doesn't allow a honest test or much to write about.   

On the other hand, the same conditions have allowed both the Corvus and the Navis Freebird models from Black Crow to really shine.  There are a bunch of reviews out there now on both skis.  Nothing yet that I could find on the La Sportivas.

The Freebird Corvus is more akin to a pure downhill board than any ski I own.  Very similar to and a fun ski I think in every way, comparing it directly to the DPS Kaizen 105.  I don't think either will disappoint.  You can add the same descriptors to the Navis Freebird if you like.  Not as heavy overall.  But it still has the feel of solid alpine ski performance.  At the moment think the Corvus is the standout of the heavier 105/107 duo.  The weights are very comparable.    I'm out for a month now, headed for better snow hopefully.  I'll have a much better impression of what the skis listed here are capable of on my return hopefully and I'll update my thoughts here as I process the experience.  

another edit Mid Feb. '26:
After a few weeks of skiing almost every day I went back to take another look at some of the online comments/reviews made about this ski.  Have to say, what some people were skiing (a male and female couple commenting in particular on you tube) is not the ski I am skiing on.

The Corvus is a solid downhill ski capable on everything for me but glare ice where I'd prefer a little less width.  But other than glare ice I love this ski.  I don't typically ski very fast.  Low to mid 30s at most generally.  But on the Corvus I have little problem running them up to 40mph on piste according to my Slopes phone program.  Certainly, fast enough for me.  And the skis are very stable there.  If they weren't I wouldn't be writing this.  I'm skiing them in a soft boot, no power straps and a Dynafit tech binding toe with a race heel.

Yes, they are a heavy touring ski.  Compared to an old Dynafit Denali or a 106 Movement, any ski is going to be heavy. And almost anything is going to be more stable than either of those two super lwt skis.   But the Corvus makes up for that weight in the pleasure and increased control on the down for me.

I like the Corvus a bit more than the Navis.  But plenty of skiers much better than me that prefer the Navis.  My take of all the skis I have skied on to date for pure down hill performance if you are using a midweight touring boot is, either ski will be exceptional.  Just so there is no confusion for my rave here, I bought both pair of Black Crows online and paid the asking retail price.  No deals here so I owe no one.  So far on a terrible, no-snow winter here in the West, these two pair of Black Crows have been the one thing that hasn't been a disappointment.  No joke.  And the Corvus for me a real standout.

As A foot note, the build quality @ Black Crow isn't excelled by anyone making skis that I have seen.  Adding DPS Skis' excellent no wax base treatment, PHANTOM, was well worth the investment to me.

This is a well written review that I do agree with.

I wish I had more info for you.  But as most have noticed, we are still lacking snow.  60F here for Christmas.  Time no to go find some!
  

  




My preferred touring and everyday ski width (touring and lifts) until this winter has been just under 100mm.   98mm and 95mm more often than not.   But I also know the advantages of a wider ski (up to 138mm under foot)  in the right snow conditions.   The skis in this comparison are what I have been using in the 102 to 107 range to date and my thoughts on the manufactures and ski designs.  As always YMMV (your mileage may vary). 

I'll be adding my impressions here on each ski, as my ski season winds down and I get time over the next few weeks. 

The short version?  The most succinct differences in how this batch of skis performed for me was generally defined by turn radius, and the amount of rocker on each skis.  Again, for me, the more rocker in the ski, the shorter the ski seems to ski.  The less rocker the more a ski seems to ski to the length it measures. What does surprise me is weight didn't make a big impact on how much better or worse the ski performed.  But weight was clearly noticeable to me as the conditions deteriorated.  Swig weight on your feet does matter.   Good snow conditions generally make any ski stellar.  For me, bad snow conditions are sure to make an unruly ski more apparent and a stellar ski design easily noticeable.


Charlie Bosco ripping Black Crow  Atris, on the Valley Noire. 


Black Crow 

Nevis Freebird, 173.4cm, 102mm, 19m, 3# 10.3oz / 3# 9.4oz  

Corvis Freebird, 176.2cm, 107mm, 21m, 4# 2.4oz / 4# 2.80oz

 

 La Sportiva 

'23 Tempo, 179cm,  103mm, 18m, 3# 14oz / 4#

'25 Tempo, 179cm,  103mm, 18m,   3# 3oz / 3# 4oz



Skinning on the '23 version of the Alps Tracks 106.


Movement 

'23 Alps Tracks, 177cm, 106mm, 19m,  3# / 3# .02oz. 

'25 Alps Tracks, 178cm, 106mm,  21.5m,  2# 14.5oz / 2# 14.oz

I bought both the older model and the newer model Alps Tracks late last season. And it was an internet comment that really got me wondering just how much different the new version might be from last year's version.

But frankly what I was really looking for was the widest ski I could find that was @ or under 3# per ski.  The Dynafit Denali's had simply spoiled me @ 98mm under foot and 2# 12oz per ski at 176cm.  The Denali will ski literally any snow condition I can ski.  Even as It is not an easy one to  replace no matter what anyone wants to say about the latest and greatest.

Gear reviews | Dynafit Denali | PowderGuide

The big indication they were different is the turn radius.   The '23 version is @ 19m.  The newer version is at 21.5m.   Less rocker on the '23 106 and more rocker on the '25 106 than the original  Denalis.  And that is pretty indicated how each Alps Tracks would ski.  The '23 holds an edge better, and is more stable everywhere.  The '25 is more playful and even with a 21.5 radius still quick under foot.   Both are very light weight and a pleasure on the ski track or on your back.

"Who prefers a more precise ski?" That would be me, thanks ;) And without a doubt '23 106 is a very precise ski. I was able to ski some of my best runs of the year (technically most difficult for snow and terrain) on the '23 version of the 106. I really like the ski. Being mounted online which is pretty far forward helps that ski IMO. No question the older ski, even in a 106 width, is scalpel in bad snow and on steep terrain. I can't say enough good things about the ski. Either version is way more solid than it should for the weight at speed. The newer version is surfier, and releases a lot easier. The older version, because it has an almost flat tail and little rocker reacts better at some speed. You need to be on top of that ski. If you are, the ski will pay dividends for sure. This year's model? It is mounted 2+ cm back from the previous ski. Which had me concerned when I was mounting. But, in for a penny in for a pound on Movement's skis. A bit more rocker was added to tip and tail on the '25 version. A hand flex test tells me the tail is a bit softer as well. Overall, I'd say the new ski is a little softer over all as well.  Not a noddle but softer than the previous year. Frankly none of those changes were giving me high expectations over last year's Model. Turns out there really are times a ski company improves a ski, instead of just changing the top sheet. Almost but not quite dramatic in the 106's comparison. I've skied slush, powder, some nasty mank, both wet and dry in both. Loved the newest 106 everywhere I have skied it. May be a bit more than the earlier version. I simply love the newest version.  Really a fun ski to skin with and even better to carry. I've skied some glare, spring ice and some hard freeze-thaw, in bounds, spring ice. None of that was any fun but the skis managed well enough. This is a very, very forgiving ski. Much more forgiving than the previous version of the 106. I like them both. But the new version just takes less effort and is simply more fun for me to ski. In the world of lwt 100+ touring ski, both are outstanding pieces of engineering. I was wondering if I would ever find a ski as light as, or lighter than, the Dynafit Denali-Dhaulagiri series? I have no doubt in my mind that I found, better skis than either, which is saying a lot for width, weight and versatility. And that is saying something in my book. I grew up on old school Rossi GS skis from the 80s. Boards you could rip around on at 35 or 40 mph with not too much effort. My Slopes phone app says the 106 is good for 35mph, no issues, and big smiles ;)  Pretty much 40mph being my max on any ski on a typical day of lift skiing. I typically like making lots of turns these days. But really fun to have a ski that seems capable of doing both without having to tightly crimp your toes in either venue. This makes a really fun ski for me!






DPS 

'25 Kaizen, 179, 105mm, 18m, 4# 2.7oz / 4# 2.3oz 

This is an interesting ski that I had high hopes for.  They cost a pretty penny and then some, so I was expecting something rather magical.   

The first weekend I took these out it was 10F at the base of my local mountain.  Cold and clear enough that my feet would eventually get cold (seldom happens to me during lift skiing), Eventually my entire body got chilled in the subzero temps.   And that took me several days to recover from.  So it really was cold.

Typically, I would have stopped skiing in those conditions.  But the one reason I kept skiing was how much I was enjoying the  Kaizen105s.   

The conditions were cold and hard snow,  more wind packed chalk that hard packed groomed conditions.  Not yet ice but within a few days of the typical freeze, thaw cycles we get, it would be.  But this day, on this particular kind of snow these skis were pretty incredible.  No speed limit for me, at the end of the day my computer said 46mph.  As fast as I likely ever ski.  35 is closer to typical if not 30mph.   During all that the skis felt solid and really easy to turn.   I like to make turns.  But these were easy enough to  simply let them rip in a bit in GS style skiing.  

I was impressed with the ski, and not just by the money I spent on them.  It is sometimes hard to convince oneself that the dollars invested really are worth the end result.  I suspect I am not the only one who has had second thoughts after a rather opulent purchase that has one questioning their own choices. 

So after one day of skiing and around 40' vert feet I was pretty sure I liked the Kaizen 105.

The question was how much?   I had a planned 6 week trip to Europe.  I really didn't want to bring a huge quiver of skis this time around.  I just wanted to ski with the least about of luggage and the most amount of fun.  My first pack was 3 pair of skis.  I decided that was too much weight, so which two pair would I bring?

I don't remember now if I had another day on the Kaizens or not.  Probably not if I can't remember it.   But somehow, I decided that the Kaizen, and a pair of 98mm underfoot lwt touring skis would suffice for this trip.



Literally the first run in France that season was a run down the Petit Envers in heavily wind effected, bottomless snow.   Not perfect conditions for me, while unacclimatised and not particularly fit for skiing at 3,500 meters.

Frankly I am still not sure if the skis helped me that day or were a hinderance.  Either way the skiing was pretty incredible.





To be fair,  being unacclimatised and not particularly fit, is a terrible way to get honest feedback on any ski no matter the conditions.   

As the trip progressed, I got better at both.  And skiing where I like the most out of Chamonix, I skied on the Italian and French side of the glaciers about twice a week if not more. 

That would include some of the worst snow conditions I have encountered in my lifetime, literally.  The kind of snow that has your partner, the better skier between you, crying.  And may be just a little bit, me wanting too.  It was bad at times.  Really bad.


The good stuff!


For may be half of those runs, looking for skiable snow I was on the Kaisen.  The other half the lwt 98cm under foot.   There are advantages to both skis in terrible conditions.  You just have to be able to take advantage of the ski.  For the kind of skiing, I really like?  I think, but don't actually know, that the touring version of the Kaizen might have been the best of both worlds, the Pagoda Tour CFL 105.  I am not sure I will get to test that theory but may be.  After all the Tour version is made for just the sort of nonsense, I really like to ski in Europe but seldom get a chance here to get that kind of milage in similar conditions. 



That said, as I type this, at the end of August '25, I am not disappointed in my Kaizen purchase.  I had some incredible days skiing the Kaizen on velvet corn, spring snow, powder and chopped up powder in France and Italy at the resorts.  Really fun days where the Kaizen made me a better skier than I actually am.  I am hoping my choice of the Kaizen will prove itself here at home this season and impress me even more than it did on that first day out last Feb.  

I did get to ski enough actual ice on this ski to know I'd rather have a narrower ski.  "Duhhh"....he says.  For really hard snow there are any number of more user-friendly skis.  The Pagoda 90 comes to mind from DPS easily enough.  But most decent skis in the 90mm under foot will make a 105 seem unpleasant, I think.  There are limits at least for me as to just how "one quiver" a ski might be at 105 under foot.

 

Sunday, May 11, 2025

Leashes again? Really?!

 "I want to retain my ski.  Way, way less worried about unknowingly skiing in avi terrain."

 DB,  May -11-2014



Since I wrote that I have spent a lot more time watching grass grow and shoveling manure than skiing.  And even less time skiing terrain that I actually worry about loosing a ski.  But I still do fall down on occasion, even on easy terrain while simply skiing on piste.  Or as we know it here in NA "at a ski area" as "on piste".

In that 11 year's time, I have seen some things and heard even more.   One of the best and most astonishing to me was putting on my skis in the parking lot getting ready for an easy hour plus tour into a hut.  I am seldom willing to spend the money for a guided trip, so this was a rare occasion for me.  But I was looking forward to the skiing the terrain, spending time in the American version of a hut (a yurt in this case) if for no other reason than there are so few huts s here to choose from.

Anyway, back to the parking lot 2 years ago.  A guide walked by and told me, rather bluntly, to remove my ski leashes, as "We don't allow them for safety reasons."  My first thought was....."WTF?  Really?" but I bit my tongue and complied.  Stashing my leashes in my pack.  Obviously, there will be no discussion with der leader.

The trip was uneventful and easily forgettable other than that conversation.   The proposed "extreme ski week" turned into a basic skimo class for ice axe self-arrest and how to move on steep terrain with your newly acquired crampons and the guide's suggested 45cm ice axes. 

What I did find amusing, when looking at what was an inspiring, and technical ski decent across the valley was the story of the 1st decent a few years earlier by the then owner of the guide school.  Turns out he took an inconsequential fall on the lower section of the face and then the resulting 15 mile ski out, on one ski.  Funny to me that no one thought that an opportunity to rethink "what was allowed". 

Sometimes people learn slowly...very slowly.  And have lots of time to reconsider their decisions.  Sometimes you don't.

This Spring while skinning up to the col on the shoulder of the Grand Montet, I watched a ski go by us, doing Mach 1, into a crowd of skiers on piste below us.   An expensive day out or could have been for any number of folks.  The loss of a ski hopefully the least of it.

Then there is the current published thought, from a good many IMGA guides, that brakes are better everywhere.  Better only because you are safer, with your skis and leashes, less likely to trap you in an avalanche.  Mind you it is the same fellows that don't recommend an air bag because they aren't warranted in "normal skiing".  But avalanches are normal skiing?  Saying nothing at all of skiing in crevassed terrain and the likelihood of a fall into a crevasse might well mean a lost ski. 

Always happy to have the conversation about avis while winter climbing or doing patrol work and tossing bombs.  Seen lots of avis in both.   I try to stay out of avi terrain while doing "normal skiing".   Conversations about helmets, air bags, beacons, and leashes seem appropriate to me even today.

10 years ago, there weren't the amount of tech bindings being skied in resorts in Europe compared to the numbers now. An even fewer in most of North American currently.  Tech bindings on full size alpine skis even more rare.   And when you do see them, almost always with brakes.

In Europe on the other hand, I saw as many brakes on touring skis and I saw skis, with neither brakes, or leashes.  The skiers using the always available option of locked toes.   I've skied a lot on locked toes and race heels.  I have always used leashes on that set up as well.  Redundant no doubt but I like the added security of always retaining my skis, if I can do my part.   Even while not liking I have to bend over and clip the leash to my boot.  It seems so uncool and slow having to do that.


Skiing off  Punta Helbronner @ 3,462m in Italy, April of '25.  A Blue Ice, Choucas harness, on me and stainless cable leashes, with a mini 
biner on my skis.


Not anywhere I want to lose a ski.   Below?  On crevassed terrain, 7 miles from a decent coffee.


Tuesday, November 28, 2023

Warm feet? Do I want a Double or Single boot?

 Or maybe better asked, "How to avoid this?!"





This is the Internet.  So, the following is basically a "rinse and repeat" of earlier info posted prior.

I'll get to the boot question in a minute.  But if you have never had cold feet, feel free to skip this one.  Cold feet have been a reality for me since my very first outdoor endeavors, literally starting in the 3rd Grade!   That was a long time ago and I have learned to manage cold feet for the most part, even after some serious chemo induced neuropathy, but warm feet are still an ongoing process, decades later.

I can barely remember now, crying from the pain in my feet as a 3rd grader, and twenty years later the pain of having to walk off Mt Rainier in cold mid-winter condition in only my socks.  My feet swollen and frost bit from a bad bivy on top of Liberty Cap and unable to wear my boots once my feet unthawed.

I like technical gear and those discussions.   But let's start this conversation with some basics that have little to do with the gear you buy.   This part is free, just needs to be installed on your hard drive, located between the ears, and is worth more than any pair of boots.



Been a while since I have made a serious blog post.  But if you can make use of the search function here, in the content are some comments on staying dry to stay warm. 

It took me a long time to figure out a lot of my cold feet issues are/were caused by wet feet.  I now suspect my feet naturally perspire more than the next guy's.

VBL socks and antiperspirants can help there.   I have used both to good effect.  I have climbed a lot in some very cold conditions, (-40C and elevations up to 22,000ft ).   I've only had minor frost bite once, that winter in Mt Rainier in 1976.   

Bottom line on wet feet?  If your socks get wet from sweat your feet will eventually get cold.  You can protect the insulation in your socks with a VBL (but they tend to slide around some) or by using a good dose of rub-on antiperspirant.    I like antiperspirant and a thin sock, relying in the boot for insulation.

More on the boots shortly.

You need to know the source of the problem before you can solve it, right?   So, no wet feet!

That is a good start.  A number of reasons I can now list as to why I froze one of my feet on Rainier.  All, but one, were trivial mistakes by a rookie.    The same mistake, most make, is the culprit almost every time.

Dehydration.

Get dehydrated and tired in cold weather and you are very likely to become a frost-bite victim.  Simple as that.  Both dehydration and physical exhaustion are pretty much a part of winter alpinism.  Do your part.  Stay hydrated, and go out physically fit.

Fitness?

No one wants to be a mouth breather.  And not everyone is Colin Haley.  If you can climb as fast as Colin, you might get up the Cassin, unharmed, in single boots.  If you plan of belaying all the mixed pitches and stay a couple of nights out on the Cassin, best to take a good pair of double boots and enough fuel (which means bringing a stove) to stay hydrated.  

Colin wasn't the only one on the mtn that year (2018) in singles.

"5) Better gear.
Compared to my previous attempts, my crampons, ice axes, helmet, umbilicals, and clothing were all lighter weight. Also, this time I carried single boots rather than double boots, and no stove."

Cassin Ridge Speed Solo – Skagit Alpinism (colinhaley.com)


Common sense once you figure it all out.

The black set of toes above?   Not mine thankfully.  And I wasn't on that particular climb.  But it was one of the coldest nights I have spent in the mountains sitting in a tent below them. They had an open bivy.  Temps lower than the climber and his gear were prepared for.  But I'd guess it was the dehydration and wet feet (from hard climbing all day) that were the real culprits.   It wasn't fitness or a gear issue IMO.   

Look closely at any climbing frostbite injury and very likely something similar will jump out as the cause.

Cigarettes?   Not an uncommon suggestion. Nicotine is indeed a vasodilator.  Best to do some more reading on the subject if that is the answer you prefer.   I'll stick with dry feet and a better water intake :)

"Vasodilators dilate arteries and/or veins. This results in increased blood flow and lowered blood pressure. Vasodilators are commonly used to treat high blood pressure (hypertension) and heart conditions."  


"Hello friends with terrible toe circulation, have any of you tried a full double boot and found it to be significantly warmer than a lighter tech option?" BM

Not an uncommon question.

Still, I don't think it is the right question on how to solve "cold feet".

Good hydration, dry feet, and right up there, as the "most important" basis for warm feet, is boot fit. If the boot doesn't fit well you are simply screwed from the get-go.

Almost everyone will find one brand of boot a better fit than another brand of boot. The boot you may have your heart set on (and your pocketbook) may be the worst boot for your feet. A smart buyer will use the Internet and their credit card to order in every boot that you think will do the trick and rug test them all for fit. Simply return what you know won't work and sort the rest in the comfort of your own home. The results may surprise you.

Dry feet? Check.

Manage your fluid intake? Check

Perfect boot fit? Check

The perfect boot? Ya, not so much ;)

A few have used fruit boots on Polar Circus. No need really, as the climbing isn't all that difficult. I've used double boots there several times in cold weather and really light weight tech boots there in nice weather and Spring conditions. 8hr suffer fests in the cold or 4hr romps under blue skies. Pick your poison for the boot and the conditions.

But that is what alpine and ice climbing are all about, right?

A lot of difference between "perfect" conditions and a bad day out.

Photo is from a few winters back. A bunch of us were trapped on top of the Midi in a storm. Notice what the locals are wearing for boots. I was the only one waiting for the tram the next morning, in single boots. And very glad I didn't have to spend the night in the loo again in singles.


Technical ground in double boots? Sure. But every ounce on your feet eventually adds up to pounds on your back.



If I can stay warm, I will always choose a lighter boot. The cost of the wrong choice may be steep.

"You must ask yourself, is it $1000 total, or $100 per toe?"  JJ


Last but not least.  How many pair of boots do you own?   For a long time I owned a pair of mtn boots and a pair of rock shoes.  It was all I could afford.  

These days I own 4 different pairs of mtn boots.  All sorted by weight and warmth.  Overdone?  Sure.  But having warm and dry feet, and the least amount of weight/bulk on my feet makes the $ spent per toe worth it to me.

My "old" double boots (the Scarpa 6000 I wrote about below) are still working fine. But there are a few new ones I'd love to try.   But up front, the boot needs to fit your foot and your use, not mine.  Good luck!






And finally, all viable, modern options, to extend your comfort level of your own boots.

Lenz socks

Thermrup insoles

chemical toe warmers





Saturday, November 25, 2023

FS Dynafit Blacklight boots size 29.

 FS New (unworn/unmolded/hang tags intact) Dynafit Blacklight boots, size 29, $600 shipped CON US. Venmo or Pay Pal if you pay the fees. Neat boot. Lighter and stiffer than a TLT6P Just not a good fit for my feet.




Saturday, November 11, 2023

Movement's, "Alp Tracks", series of ski, plus 1

A meter of new snow!   The 2021/22 Movement 106 in its element.  


15 years ago Dave Goode, in Provo Utah, was making carbon fiber skis that still have yet to be surpassed for weight.

Ten years ago Dynafit did a run of very light weight touring ski that covered 3 different widths from  78mm to 98mm underfoot.  For what they were, all of them still skis exceptionally well for their width and weight as a touring skis.  And IMO all are still exceptional skis by any standard.

Here are some numbers for comparison:

The Nanga Parbat 80mm

171 x 80mm    Nanga Parbat 1052g

The Cho Oyu 88mm

174 x 89mm    Cho Oyu         1180g

and the Denali 98mm

176 x 98 Denali 

1299/1259 = 1279g average

1294/1305 = 1300g average 

Ten years on now, the general touring skis have gotten wider and overall lighter for the most part.  But few have match let alone surpassed that run on the earlier Dynafit skis for the weight compared to the width under foot.


Movement's skis for 2022 and 2023?  Construction?

  • ULTRALIGHT CARBON
  • wood core, ultralight paulownia
  • DOUBLE PLATE TITANAL
  • BASE SPEED
  • RACE EDGE
Tour width skis available in the men's specific ski?  (Thy also have women's specific skis in similar
widths)

Weights listed are actual from my own skis.

This ski has a slightly different construction.  More on it coming shortly.

Race Pro 77.
77mm  838/828g per ki
833g average on my pair (161)




85mm
2022 version
968g (161)
This is a ski I took on a local 20 mile ridge traverse.  I'd done the traverse before on 65mm x 161cm race skis.  My day sucked because of that choice in skis.  Snow was really wet and the majority of the traverse is flat or slightly uphill until the last 1000 ft drop.  My race skins failed mid trip.  Life got old fast.  I ended up walking in knee deep, wet snow, for much of that trip.  The skkis were too skinny and the skins simply sucked.   This time around I used Movement's clip attach skis, which were great even after, literally, dozens of transitions.   It was an outstanding combination for that particular trip.  Nothing I  own was going to make it any better than the Movement 85.    That traverse is a lot better with no snow, on a mtn bike :)





90mm

1030g (162)  This is a ski I don't own.   It was a tossup between the 85 and the 90 underfoot.  The "on sale" price point made that decision for me.




95mm

1108g (161cm)  Short and stubby, intentionally.





98mm (2023/24) version

1273g/1275g per ski (178cm)

1274g average for my pair, which is outstanding.

This is the ski I bought to replace my aging 176cm, Dynafit Denali.    The Denali was listed as 131-98-116, 21.5m  and weighted in at a1290g.  The 98 is listed as 126-98-124.  20.5m radius and came in at  is 1270g.   So the two skis are very close.  A little less side cut, and hopefully, a little less hooky on the Movement in bad snow.   We'll have to see if they ski good enough to justify carrying the extra 1 pound in ski weight over some of my lighter 161cm ski for Spring and Summer corn.  I once thought so and skinned on a pair of Huascaran to Camp Muir.  Huascarans were a full 2.5# heavier than either of the two LWT skis.  For a run ski down from Muir to the bridge very fun, but a really dumb idea to carry an extra 2.5# on your feet..anywhere...if you can help it!  I expect the 98i to be just as much fun as the 2023 106mm version, just in a bit less ski in overall weight.   I'd guess it to be every but the ski the original Denali was and a good bit more playful and forgiving.  Which should equate to an outstanding b/c touring ski. More to come on that choice and why.




106mm (177cm) 2022 version 1340/1335g






2023/24 version 1296/1283g


When I went looking for a new ski in Jan. of 2023 it wasn't like I needed a new pair of skis.  The ski inventory in my shop is embarrassing in its selection.  But some of them are getting a little long in tooth if not by technology, then by use.  

At the start of the pandemic, I had sent a deposit for what I had hoped would be a fun 4 or 5 days of steep skiing.  It took a couple of years a change of ownership before that deposit was finally honored.  Turned out it was the biggest ski season in decades and the snowpack to match.  I've never left home with the avi danger so high in the back country.

But that trip or at least the promise of that trip sent me looking for a new ski with at least the weight and surface area the older Dynafit Denali.  

The Denali has been my go-to ski for a while now.  It had replaced my much-loved Cho Oyu that I have spent even more time on.   The Denali was a bit more forgiving, and I liked the added 10mm under foot, both of which bettered the Cho.

I have skis going from 65mm under foot, all the way to 138mm under foot.  Usually more than one and between them a number of great skis that overlap on width.  The Denali is 98 under foot.  It was replaced by the Dhaulagiri @ 95mm underfoot.   And eventually replaced again and again with a few tweaks by the Dynafit to arrive at the Blacklight 95, which is the current, touring oriented, 95mm from Dynafit.

I bought and skied on two different sized 95 Blacklights.  Although the BL 95 is close in weight,  IMO it is no Denali when it comes to how they ski.  A decent ski sure.  But nothing to write home about either.

So the search continued throughout the winter.

Skimo Co. in SLC generally has a great selection of back country skis and, more importantly to me, reliable data.

Movement Alp Tracks 106 - 2021/22 (skimo.co)

What they offer IMO are very reliable descriptions of how the skis actually perform.  I would prefer more in hand reviews that a J. Peterman catalog of fantasy writing.   The best I could hope for on reliable data was what the end users were commenting on in Skimo's Q&A section.  Even then I found some of the comments totally at odds to my own from actual use.

Which in turn got me to write about my experience with a number of Movement skis here.

The 106 was my first Movement ski.  So the conversation really starts here.

There was some back and for the between SKIMO comments and perspective buyer's comments on the two versions of the 106.  Which made me favor the "more traditional style 106 from 2022.  Flat tail, a little stiffer maybe and a less "fun" ski by what I would consider "modern" standards.   I think the "less fun" comment is spot on when compared to a dbl rockered, twin tip style, modern freestyle ski.  The Praxis GPO is a classic modern, and really fun ski.  DPS 112RP is different yet but another.   Both are also a good bit more under foot @ 112/116mm and weight well over 9# for a pair.  The Movement 106 comes in 3# lighter for a pair.

So not the best comparison.  The 2022 version is not the best for shape as a comparison either.

Don't get me wrong I really like the 2022, Movement 106 version.  But it has its place.  And it is not the 2023 version.   I skied the 2022 version in all sorts of snow.  And it would be a great all around ski for me as is in soft snow conditions.

But playful it is not.  You have to work the ski.

The 2023 version with pronounced twin tips and a slightly softer flex is flat out a better soft snow ski.  And at least in the two pair I ski, the 2023 version is a bit lighter.

Everyone very likely has one run that stands out from the 2022/2023 ski season.  I have a couple of them.  Both on the 106.  And earlier winter run made me think the 2022 version was one of the best skis I have ever skied on for size and weight.  Same run, in similar conditions, 2 months later convinced me the 2023 ski was without a doubt the best lwt "mid fat" ski I have been on.   I am stuck on that conviction even now.  The 2023 version is simply an easier and more forgiving ski in soft snow than the 2022 version.

That said, I'd still carry the 2022 version to ski off Rainier, early season.

Which such a quiver of sizes to choose from it is fun to pick and choose what width and length of ski you might want for your own adventures and the time of year.

There is no doubt that the Movement ski line up really are good skis.  Isay that  even when not focused on ski weight.  Every Movement ski I own skis exceptionally well.   But the reason I bought them is their weight.  It is the weights specs that first grabbed my attention with Movement.  The weight alone has continued to hold my attention on this width of ski.

I wrote this comment on the 106 first, but I'll try to give some perspective on the other with ski widths as well before I am done.