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The cold world of skimo & alpine climbing

The cold world of skimo & alpine climbing

Wednesday, April 16, 2014

Grivel Twin Gate?

Ya, I have seen a lot of fluff and faff in the climbing world.  When it comes to bits and pieces stuff comes and goes.  The bad or complicated stuff simply binned early on.  We all have some I suspect.  And really wish we didn't.

I needed some spare lockers recently for glacier skiing.  And even the gear shops in Chamonix don't offer any real alternatives.  The new Edelrid locker is cool but expensive and hard to find.  And not any easier to use than a normal locker when you compare it to the newest gold standard....the "Twin Gate" by Grivel.

Nothing impressive in new technology for a locker really over the last 40 years or so, till now.

Simple, sleek design work here that is extremely effective.
I'll say it up front.  The Twin Gate technology is the best "locking" biner yet designed, by a fair margin.

Really curious now as to the size and shape of the new biners  (as in several models) that will be available with this technology.  But I do know there will be several.  Including wire gate versions.

But it is the solid gate version Haston is playing with in the video that most impressed me.  When they are available I will own some.  And better yet I'll use a  Twin Gate in places I have always wanted some extra a security but was unwilling to put up with the hassle of a typical locker.

That in my mind is a very good thing.  My climbing just got a little safer. (or will soon enough)
And I appreciate the help.

I swear,  Stevie Haston does not have magic fingers here.  The newest Grivel is just that easy to use and it just that secure.  Hate it when I get teased with products I can use today, want to buy NOW and won't see in a store shelf for a few months yet.  But I played with this biner and depending on what versions of this gate make it to market I will own some.  I hate lockers generally.  But this one changed my mind.  I was laughing the entire time playing with one..thinking of how many ice screws my partners have lost from broken plastic biners or popping the wire gates with screws hanging on a harness.  This thing really does ROCK! (and lock)  And trust me...I don't have magic fingers.  Fumble fingers more like it.  But I don't generally drop gear.  I'd guess from playing with the Dbl Gate biner  I could race Stevie here in the video with just a minute or two of practice.   If he dares to show in SLC for the NA debut the gauntlet has already been thrown :)  I don't normally tag a lot of words on to a biner.  But this one really is worth a look.


18 comments:

Unknown said...

Interesting - I'd been wondering if this was an advancement or a gimmick. Glad to hear some early positive feedback.

Anonymous said...

Got to see one in work this week (the Scarpa rep had one with him as both imported into UK by same company). It really is as easy to use as Stevie shows in the video, and a good size too - not too small to be impossible with gloves, but not so big that no-one will use it.

Anonymous said...

How do you feel this biner compares to the BD magnetron?

Poncho said...

Not much into gimmicks.

"Simple, sleek design work here that is extremely effective.
I'll say it up front. The Twin Gate technology is the best "locking" biner yet designed, IMO."

Anonymous said...

The Grivel twin gates all seem quite large. I would like to see one that is about the size of a Petzl Attache or Metolius Element.

Phil said...

Have you actually used this thing outside the shop?

Semnoz said...

Thanks for the heads up!
Very interesting. Great to see a brand new take on "old" technology. Will definitely look for these carabiners in shops to see how truly easy they are to handle. I clip all my gear to my harness gates out, not sure if this will add complexity.

On a side note, could have done without the, "If you value your life," b.s. at the end.

Poncho said...

Been using the wire/solid gate version for a week now. Wasn't what I wanted but what was available. Ended up replacing the lockers in use on my harness for skiing/crevasse rescue here.. Once I started using them it was obvious just how much better they are..and that once you try them you won't be going back. Same size as my Trango Superfly lockers fwiw. Just less faff to use them. Reccomendation is solid...it's not a gaper's view.

Poncho said...

End of the video shows the models they have made to date. I have the smallest on the far left. But there will be other models available as well that are not shown. What I have is the same size and close to the weight of a Oz or Superfly I think plus the extra gate. No scale here in Cham but when I get home I do a proper review hopefully with all the differing models. I can say this...I'll own a bunch of them eventually. "If you value your life and all" :-)

Max said...

Looks pretty cool but it also looks like it would be pretty hard to manage with gloves on. That being said it looks pretty cool for rock situations.

Poncho said...

Gloves? Take a look at about 2:40/ 2:45 in the video. Gloves are easy. No shit guys these things simply work. And it is easy. I don't do much rock any more. If it isn't useable in winter climbing with gloves I have like zero interest.

Nicolai Michel said...

Too bad they have a notched nose. Perhaps I'm clumsy, but those notches always catch when I'm trying to unclip. Glad to see some innovation though.

brian p. harder said...

I was out with another Grivel "Steve" and he favored them, as well. He had the full wire version prototype.

BTW, I'm always surprised by the kind of hate and flaming on forums and blogs by individuals who haven't actually touched the product. What the hell is up with that? When I'm King of the World, no one will be allowed to have an opinion until they actually try something. LOL

Anonymous said...

Hmm. Wonder how they stack up to the Rock Exotica Bi-Wire?

http://www.rockexotica.com/products/carabiners/rockd_bi_wire.html

Snow Slog said...

I'd have to try it with gloves to believe it. Unfortunately my REI doesn't carry Grivel biners in store.

Poncho said...

Ya, going to be awhile before any retail stores see this biner. Longer yet for your local REI I suspect.

Tom said...

One downside - they didn't call it the "69" gate!

Stefan said...

Thanks for the early feedback on a new product Dane. When I saw these come out my immediate reaction was... a bit of a gimmick. But decided to order one to have a look (the same model as in the video) and I share your conclusion -- they are fantastic (though I qualify this by stating I haven't used it outdoors yet).

I've tried it at home with softshell gloves and heavier ice gloves, and they are dead simple to use. Was a bit annoyed as had just bought a bunch of lockers to use on screamers and belay cordelettes...

If I was pushing the grade on ice I'd definitely use these on the two screamer quickdraws I always place to protect to belay (a habit) plus have a few extra quickdraws with these on, no hesitation. No problem using these one-handed and I'd say they're far easier to use with gloves than twistlocks.

I'm not climbing much or very hard so don't feel the urge to change the lockers on my rack, but can one day see myself doing so. These are the biggest krab innvoation since wiregates.