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The cold world of skimo & alpine climbing

The cold world of skimo & alpine climbing

Wednesday, September 22, 2010

Ice commeth!

If you haven't seen it, great video! Ignore the product speil. (or not as all three are exceptional tools ;)


Morgan74 said...

Just wondering if you think it is possible to fit an extra rest on the new Nomics a la Ergo? It is not listed as a spare part on the Petzl website but it seems like it might just bolt on, were it available.

Aslo wondering about your thoughts on Black Diamond picks vs Petzl. I've only briefly used the old nomics and they felt quite blunt, limiting my first time ice placements which I think is due to the vertical profile of the pick.....whereas the BD's seem much more tapered. There used to be the option of a cascade pick for the nomics but this seems to have been phased out.


Poncho said...

Hi Morgan,
The new TRIGREST is available, cheap (under $20) and bolts onto most any tool. It comes on the Quark and the new Ergo. Petzl part number is U19 TRI. I have added them to my old Quarks and it would work great as a third grip on the Nomic.

Picks? Everyone makes a good pick these days. I happen to make and sell the best BD picks :) BD's changed their designs a bit last year and it helped a lot. Petzl Cascade picks were the ticket with the Nomic for pure ice. They are still available. But the newest "ICE" picks come on the Nomic and Quarks now with he "DRY" standard on the new ERGO.

All the new Petzl picks are now T rated. Same material and heat treated as before, 3mm tip, just a better rating. BD's Lazer is also a 3mm pick but is B rated just as all of Petzls have been until this season. BD offers a T rated mixed pick to take the likely abuse. It is called the Titan.

The Cold Thistle picks are not rated but have been tested by BD and come in 30% stronger than anything else out there.

They will be available and shipping again shortly.

I really like the Nomic on ice with the Cascade or ICE pick and pick weights. The Nomic excels in that format. The Astro or DRY pick and no pick weights makes pure ice climbing a LOT harder I think. But lots of guys climb with them set up that way. Adding the pick weights help some but I find the other mixed style picks too sticky on pure ice with the additional hooking teeth.

Morgan74 said...

Thanks for getting back to me so comprehensively!

I will digest and take it on board...keep up the good work.