Colin Haley on gear

"Second, anyone who tells you that gear doesn’t matter is clueless (at least in alpine climbing). I’m 100% certain that Rob and I were carrying less total mass of material than any other roped ascent of the route. My ice axes, crampons and helmet are all significantly lighter than they were just three years ago, and massively lighter than the ice axes, crampons and helmets that Steve and Rolo had in 2001. My helmet is the lightest one on the market. My ice axes are Petzl prototypes which are noticeably lighter than Quarks, which are already some of the lightest technical ice axes on the market. My crampons are steel in front and aluminum in back, and connected by dyneema cord. We cut the leg loops off of our harnesses. Our cams were the new BD ultralights. Our ice screws were the aluminum Petzl Laser Speed Lights. Our carabiners and slings were certainly way lighter than the lightest ones available in 2001. We climbed on a single 7.7mm rope, and didn’t bring a second one. I wore single boots on both ascents – the La Sportiva Batura, of which the current version is significantly lighter than the first version that came out in 2007. Yeah, we brought sleeping bags, they weighed 700g each. Yeah, we brought foam pads, but have you seen how light the NeoAir pads are? We had a Jetboil Sol, which is much lighter than the original Jetboil, which already was much lighter than whatever stove Steve and Rolo had in 2001 (probably a white gas stove)."


It is a good read:

http://www.colinhaley.com/infinite-spur-laps/

Scarpa Phantom Tech review

I wrote the Phantom Ultra reviews starting in Sept 2010!  It took some 3 years to catch up with the significance of this boot.

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/09/scarpa-phantom-ultra.html



                                                  Photo courtesy of Jonathon Griffith
                               

Ueli Steck wasn't one to wonder if a lwt boot would suffice on cold ice. The Ultra was never imported into North America but available in Europe. I still think the Phantom Ultra was a much better boot than the Phantom Guide having used both boots.

I try to keep up on  a few things..alpine boots being one of them.  I've not missed La Sportiva's new dbl boot entry or Arcteryx's new "dbl" boot line .  I was involved on the ground floor in both ideas.

I think the next step in the evolution of boot technology was the Scarpa Rebel Ultra.  I suspect Scarpa did as well hence the name.."Ultra".





Having used the Rebel Ultra mid winter @ altitude in the Alps I can say it worked fine...but could be a little warmer :)  The Phantom Ultra was just a little warmer.  I suspect the newest Phantom Tech to be a even better boot than the Phantom Ultra was and ....every bit as good of boot as the Rebel Ultra is now.   Thanks to Grammy for the updates. 

Photo courtesy of Chris Graham 

More coming shortly on the Phantom Tech from a few of us that buy are own boots, and that are just now starting to use the Phantom Tech..

I'll update this review as I get more info.

Today it is weights.

All boots are size 45 and weighed on my postal scale

Rebel Pro Goretex  852g
Rebel Ultra             860g
Phantom Tech        970g (Scarpa listed @ 815g for a 42)
Phantom Ultra      1030g
Phantom Guide    1120g
Phantom 6000      1160g   (last generation with a Baruntse liner)   (Newest 6000 is listed @ 995g for a 42)

Quick high points?

The new Phantom Tech drops 2 full ounces per boot from the older Phantom Ultra.
4 oz. for the pair in my size 45.

Both Toes and heel crampon attachment points have changed for the better.  Any crampon will fit the newest Phantom  boot much better.

The boot sole and the ankle articulation of the new Phantom Tech are way, WAY stiffer than the ultra, Guide or Rebel Ultra.

While you wouldn't think the internals of the boot would have changed much..that would be an incorrect assumption.

Anyone climbing in a Phantom Guide now will be pretty impressed I think with the changes in the Phantom Tec.  There is a reason there is no longer a Phantom Guide model available. (at least in North America)  For once I actually agree with Scarpa's marketing plan here :)  It is a very nice boot.

Super light generally means less durable.  Slightly higher and much more durable gaiter than the old Ultra or Guide.  The new wrap around gaiter is suppose to be the chit.  I am with holding my opinion on that one till I get some time in the boot.

Over all?  It is lighter than the Ultra my previous high point for boot design.   It would appear to be warmer and at least from the rubber sole up.  And at first blush it seems to be a warmer boot than the Ultra.  Comparable to the Batura and Phantom Guide I think.  May be warmer than either.  Or at least that is what my trashed feet are telling me.   That info and the source is not as reliable as they once were :)  A super light technical ice and mixed boot.  It is not a double boot for warmth.  But it is the best thing I have seen in a "warm" single to date.

Boots this light and agile will change how you climb.

La Sportiva's newest double boot..

This is a boot I advocated for  the last couple of years at La Sportiva NA.  Seemed obvious to me.

@ a list price of $790. retail

.

Cancelar respuestaG2 enhances the La Sportiva high mountain boot line from the 8000m Olympus and 4000m Batura.  The G2 is intended for  mountaineering at 6000 and 7000 metres.

Zamberlan 3000 Paine Plus GTX single boot.

There is nothing I like more than the newest super light technical gear.  Especially the newest boots.   But there is always a bit of disappointment on my part with every pair I take out of the box.  Like most of us these days I own several pairs of alpine boots.  Lwt Singles and warm doubles at the very least if you can afford them.  And an additional "super gaiter" boot to fill out a full 4 season "do every thing" quiver.

Zamberlan 4000 Eiger Ice boot...

 

A few years ago at Winter OR I stumbled across a boot company called Zamberlan.  Honestly I can't remember if I had heard of them prior.  May be in Europe some time but I simply don't remember now.  Friend Jonathon Miller and fellow guides at the show really liked their Zamberlan boots and tried in vain to get me hooked up with Zamberlan that winter,

 

Mammut Eiger Extreme Nordwand TL Boots

Mammut sez:

"Despite a complete range of technical features, this full-gaiter boot is the lightest in its category, making it a perfect fit for the Eiger Extreme range."

Weight is not the end all for even a weight weenie like me.  But since it is the very first comment of the online Mammut description I'll address that.

Why a double boot?

With reviews of the most popular double boots on the blog and more coming of similar models I think the use of double boots might need some explanation again.

The majority of my alpine climbing has been done in the Canadian Rockies in winter or in the Alaska Range in spring.

In both places a good single boot and decent gaiter will get you by, generally, in perfect conditions. The problems arise not in the perfect conditions but in the exceptions both in the weather conditions and temperatures. As important or maybe more import is the physical condition of the climber.

Open bivy high on the North side of Deborah May '76


Frostbite is not generally a cold issue believe it or not but simply a physical exhaustion and dehydration issue of climbers strung out in difficult conditions. Double boots are a reasonable insurance policy to avoid a cold injury when you are dehydrated and exhausted and still having to keep moving. Sounds pretty much like any worthwhile alpine climb doesn't it?

While expensive, quality double boots are nothing compared to the price of what even a short stint in the hospital from frostbite and the resulting down time will cost you long term. Not to mention the resulting cold sensitivity that will follow you well into the future. The result of a serious case of frostbite is you'll either stop climbing in cold weather or you'll buy double boots after the first incident. My suggestion is buy the double boots up-front and save yourself the worry and pain.

With all the new climbers able to get out and crag climb long before they jump on difficult alpine climbs single boots are the norm. The single boots generally climb better and are cheaper. The same single boots are generally over kill for most things, including Rainier in summer. So, of course we all want to use those same single boots...that aren't cheap either....all winter and on every climb.

A good percentage of the time you'll get away with it. In Canada these days most climbers won't go out if the temps drop below -15C. That is up from the old norm of -30C as the temps we generally called it off. One of the reasons is most boots are not comfortable climbing below -15C unless they are double boots.


Galiber Makalu dbl boots, late '70s.





The other important reason to invest in double boots is the amount of time you can comfortably spend out in a cold, harsh environment. No they aren't fun to walk in or climb difficult mixed terrain in. But both can be done adroitly with a little practice. You might find they climb ice better than your single boots in fact. On moderate, long, ice routes, most will appreciate the added support and calf relief of a good double boot. The most important reason to look at a double boot is the ability to keep the liners unthawed and warm over night and if required dry the inner out in your sleeping bag. If things really go to shit and you have an open bivy the fastest way to thrash your feet is to be laced into a tight pair of single boots. Better yet on a open bivy you can loosen a dbl boot a bit, gain some warmth usually by doing so, and still keep your 'pons bolted on the boot and not worry about loosing gear. It is a big advantage if actually required.  Getting your steel crampons off your boots or better yet your boots off your feet is alwasy a better and warmer over all option.

The advantages of a double boot are significant to keeping your toes and feet in good health. The down side is first the expense, and then the ability to climb difficult ground in them. That can be over come with time, by climbing more in your dbl boots. Lastly the bulk and weight. The newest boots are getting better.  The Scarpa 6000 and La Sportiva Spantik are both warm, light and climb well.  Worth the added effort to climb in doubles unless you feel like the risk of damaged feet is lower than I do.


On frozen feet after an open bivy at 13,800 in Nov.

Some will wonder about the Batura and Phantom Guide style of boots (single boots with attached "supergators") as a less expensive (if  $500+ is less expensive) option to a true double boot. This style of boot has two design features that limit their use in similar conditions. They are both very difficult to dry out and keep unthawed on over night or longer trips. And the ankles are generally a lot softer and more flexible than a true double boot. So you lose the extra ankle and calf support as well. My take having used a Batura for a few years is they are good one day boots on cold days but I would never take them out over night intentionally. Each style of boot has a place. Just don't trust the advertising to help you decide when and what is right for you.

Times haven't changed much. Good (read winter technical boot) double boots would/do cost a lot more than a good (read winter technical boot) pair of single boots. That changed for 20 plus years as plastic double boots dominated the market place. No matter your skill or experience level plastic double boots were common on almost every mountaineer's feet. And for good reason..they would keep your feet warm and dry in just about any condition...some times too warm. For years you could easily assume that anyone who did technical ice climbing or went out in winter would own a pair of plastic double boots.

Not so today. And because of it I am seeing and hearing of frost bite injuries again outside of the greater ranges....which had been, until just very recently, a thing of the past.
One of my litmus tests for winter climbing partners, 30 years ago and again now is, "do they own double boots?" It doesn't mean that you use double boots on every winter climb.
But if they do, I can generally count on the fact they take their own survival and climbing seriously. That is usually because of hard won experience in really cold weather conditions. So I can worry less about them getting a cold injury and both of us staying healthy on our adventures. And just as often the owner of a pair of double boots is likely to value his partner more than some one with less experience would. Surprised? You shouldn't be. It is all in the details.

If you plan to go BIG and go LIGHT....the place not to short yourself on gear is your boots...go BIG there first!

More on the end result of "minor" frostbite.

http://www.summitpost.org/frostbite/856321







A pair of Herman Buhl's cold weather boots.

By comparison a light weight double boot for their time.  Something the first Kolflachs were.  And the recent TLT5 hinted at  prior to the full blown ski boot with the introduction of  TLT6.

The climbing world still waits for the super light technical double boot to catch up with the modern technology available.


Hermann Buhl (September 21, 1924 – June 27, 1957) is considered one of the best post-World War II Austrian climbers and one of the best climbers of all time. He was particularly innovative in applying alpine style to Himalayan climbing. His accomplishments include:

1953 First ascent of Nanga Parbat, 8,126 metres (26,660 ft) (solo and without bottled oxygen).
1957 First ascent of Broad Peak, 8,051 metres (26,414 ft).
Before his successful Nanga Parbat expedition, 31 people had died trying to make the first ascent.

Buhl is the only mountaineer to have made the first ascent of an eight-thousander solo. Just a few weeks after the successful first ascent of Broad Peak (with Fritz Wintersteller and Marcus Schmuck), Buhl and Kurt Diemberger made an attempt on nearby, unclimbed Chogolisa peak (7654 m) in alpine style. Buhl died when he fell through a cornice on the southeast ridge near the summit of Chogolisa. His body was never found.

"Buhl was very lucky on Nanga Parbat, escaping with just a few frostbitten toes. This story reflects Buhl's style of climbing; totally focused and by taking enormous risks he often succeeded where others failed."

Buhl on Nanga Parbat 1953




http://www.summitpost.org/article/173032/Hermann-Buhl-1924-1957-.html

La Sportiva Nepal Cube?

Nepal is one of the very best all around boots from La Spotiva.  And it just keeps getting better.

This is a quick look the newest CUBE version.  Carbon honey comb mid sole like the Batura 2.0 and a new toe cap as well.  The Batura 2.0 was a total revamp of the Batura.  I'd expect the same make over with the Nepal.  More than first meets the eye generally from La Sportiva.   Available  Fall of 2013.

 

More here: http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2013/06/la-sportiva-back-at-ya.html

 

the best of the lwt ice climbing boots

 The LWT ice boots:

 

Things have changed in the last couple of years and it continues to be for the better!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Scrapa Rebel Ultra size 45 1# 14oz

Scarpa Phantom Ultra size 45 weight 2# 4oz

 

La Sportiva Trango Extr Evo GTX size 45 weight 2# 3oz

 

La Sportiva Batura 2.0 size 45 2# 2oz

 

 

 

La Sportiva Trango Extr Evo GTX size 45 weight 2# 3oz

 

 

Larger volume on the left,  the Batura 2.0 and the smaller volume, the Rebel Ultra, on the right

All these boots fall between these two for volume and warmth. 

 weights are PER Boot:

 

Scrapa Rebel Ultra size 45    1# 14oz

 

La Sportiva Batura 2.0 size 45  2# 2oz

Scarpa Phantom Ultra size 45 weight 2# 4oz

La Sportiva Trango Extr Evo GTX size 45 weight 2# 3oz

Zamberlan Paine GTX  2# 8oz

(how much do your gaiters weigh?)

Every boot listed here except the Trango has a gaiter built in.
All are Goretex lined.  Except the Phantom Ultra.  Which is notable imo.

La Sportiva Trango Prime is another  boot that would fit this category.

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/11/la-sportiva-trango-prime-trango-extreme.html
 

These are five of my favorite lwt single boots for winter use.  Given the option  it is a hard decision on which to choose when looking at the temps that will easily allow any of them.

Soles flexibility depends on you shoe size.  The bigger the boot the more flexible the boot sole.
All of these boots are rigid enough for vertical ice using the right crampons.  "Right" crampon choice on these boots is the key to performance IMO.

Scarpa's Phantom Ultra 

 

Phantom Ultra in use with a Petzl Dartwin

I am a big boy weight wise.   190# stripped and a good bit more kitted out on the ice.  The Scarpa Ultra (both versions) and a Dartwin is IMO a very good set up for vertical ice.   This coming for a guy who really prefers a rigid crampon and rigid boot mid sole.   I learned to appreciate the softer flexing mid soles Scarpa has offered recently.

But given a choice I still like a fairly rigid boot with lots of support.  The lighter weight the better, imo.

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2013/01/true-love-dane-and-his-boots.html

  
Let me do a run down of my thoughts on each and let you choose.

I have long skinny feet with very (VERY) narrow ankles. I'm a Size 45 or 45.5 in these boots. The Scarpa and Zamberlan lasts seem to fit me the best.   I see a lot of comments saying the La Sportivas are a narrower last.    I am not convinced as I can wear any of them with little complaint.  Best to always try on the boots you want to consider.  I find all of the boots listed very close on sizing and lasts.  Only toe boxes changing the fit very much  and of course the lacing systems.  For me lacing systems are best designed, KISS.  KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID.   They make or a break a boot in the end.  I think that gets forgotten some times by the design teams.  I run between a 45 and a 45.5 in all of these boots.

Here is my 2 second review on all of them.

Scrapa Rebel Ultra size 45 1# 14oz

Best fit of the bunch for me in a 45.5 by far.  Easy enough to get in and out of.  Lacing is slick and ankle support very good.  I like this boot.  For the fit and support it offers for the weight I'll put up with the lack of warmth to a point.  1/2# per pair lighter than the Batura.

La Sportiva Batura 2.0 size 45 2# 2oz

Likely the warmest of the boots listed.  But the Phantom Ultra is right in there as well.  Very flexible ankle and a high tech honeycomb carbon mid sole.  Hard to not like this boot.  I find the lace system annoying.  If the lace system offered a better fit for me this would likely be "my" boot.  

Scarpa Phantom Ultra size 45 weight 2# 4oz

Advantage Scarpa here.  Almost the fit of a Rebel Ultra.  Almost the warmth of the Batura.  Heavier than either.  Easy in and out.  They dry faster than any of the GTX boots and they climb well.   I suspect they dry faster because they never get as wet on the inside.  The Goldilocks boot?  May be.  It needs a Scarpa update and to be imported into North America in half sizes.  Likely never ever happen though.  Phantom Guide is already well established in the market.
  
La Sportiva Trango Extreme Evo GTX size 45 weight 2# 3oz

Super slid all around performer.  This is the boot that needed a gaiter.  One designed "out of the box." But a super hard boot to dry out once  wet.  I really like this boot for a lot of reasons.  The best reason?  It is simple and it works every where.....till it gets wet inside. 

Zamberlan Paine GTX 2# 8oz

Old school fit and finish.  Which are good things.  The mid sole is pretty rigid and very supportive.  They fit almost crampon exceptionally well.  Not every boot here does.  They are a bit heavy.  But the craftsmanship and materials clearly show you why they are  6oz heavier per boot than the Batura 2.0.  If you have the money for only one boot and need it to last for a while.  This is your boot.    May be the most comfortable boot of the bunch for me out of the box.

FWIW until recently the Zamberlan boots were extremely hard to get a hold of in the USA.   That has changed.  I'll have full, detailed reviews up shortly on the Paine, Eiger and Denali versions.  They are boots you will want to know more about.  Took me 3 years to finally get a pair in hand and I think, worth the wait.

They are available here:
http://www.prolitegear.com/Zamberlan.htm

All but two of the boots offer sticky rubber soles with minimal lug height. The Zamberlan Paine and the La Sportiva Batura 2.0 being the exceptions with a full size lugs.   Makes short lugs a little slick in some snow conditions.  But that is why we wear crampons isn't it? 

I have heard of the Trango having too narrow of a foot print and being unpleasant on trails..an "ankle twister".     "BS" was my first thought...but I heard it more than once and always from people I trust using the boot. Not something I personally experienced though.  And I have walked a bunch in the Trangos. 

The Ultra is a OutDry lined boot. The rest Goretex lined boots.

All stay dry if you keep the water below boot top height. The GTX boots seems to retain more moisture from foot sweat. All are difficult to dry once wet.

More here on an Ultra and Trango comparison I made earlier.  I was wrong on the Dart/Dartwin/Ultra combo btw.  There are crampons that can be made to fit better but none more reliable and proven over the last couple of years now than the Scarpa-Dartwin combo.

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/12/phantom-ultra-vs-trango-extreme-gtx.html

Lots of options these days to get a really good boot and more importantly to me a GOOD fit.  It has not always been so in this category of boot.  Some work to be done yet.

As I have mentioned so many times previous.
A super light weight double boot that will climb ice, under the magic 1.5# in a size 45.  And something you can actually dry in the field over night should be the on every one's mind.    

Till then I will do my best to wear a few of these out!

 

Gaitered mtn/ice boots? Batura / Phantom / Ultra

Just for the sake of convenience I thought all these should be in the same place for easy reference.

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2013/02/the-scarpa-rebels-part-one-ultra.html

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2013/01/scarpa-phantom-ultra-vs-la-sportiva.html

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/02/new-2011-la-sportiva-batura_14.html

http://coldthistle.blogspot.co.uk/2010/04/scarpa-phantom-guide-vs-la-sportiva.html

6000 specific

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/search?q=6000

The Scarpa Rebels..... Part One "The Ultra!"

dbl click for a full view of the boot

Scarpa introduced the Rebel GTX Carbon last year.  Great boot for its intended purpose.  Which was alpine rock.   In Oct of 2010 I had already seen  "what was coming" on the feet of  Ueli Steck doing some hard alpine mixed and steep ice around Chamonix.  I had wondered if "that" boot would only be "on Ueli's feet"  or ever make it to market.    We now know that answer.  It has indeed made it to market!  The new Scarpa Rebel boot is called the Rebel Ultra GTX.

The other two boots in the Rebel  line are the Rebel Carbon GTX, introduced last year.  The newest Rebel Pro GTX introduced at the Winter 2013 OR show.  I'll review each boot in turn.  The Carbon GTX I've been in a year now so that one I'll rehash a bit later.  The newest Pro GTX I have yet to handle outside the OR show.  The new Ultra?  Those I now have in hand.  And for me, well worth the wait.  Thrilled, is hardly an over statement.

The original Batura on M6 2009

"2/20/08
Boots? Fruit boot technology is catching up to the Mtn. boot technology. You’ll climb different in them but you’ll also climb better. Ice becomes more like rock climbing in the soft ankle boots. Haven’t found one I want to send 1000m of hard 55% alpine ice in (until now) but it is entertaining trying to figure out how to rest the calves with French technique at every opportunity. More time in soft boots will likely encourage me to take them on endurance alpine ice.

Now we have both warm boots and soft ankle boots that have a rigid sole for even my size 12 feet. They can be amazing. Check out the usual suspects to see what fits you. I like the Batura for cold stuff close to the road (they are hard to dry out) and the Spantik for anything over a day out. There are much lighter boots I could be climbing in. We’ve only just seen the beginning to the newest boot technology. In the future look for a dbl. layered fruit boot that is warm enough for Denali which you’ll actually want to use for that M10 at your local crag. "

I wrote that 5 years ago almost to the day now.  And it is true the technology is just beginning to filter down to what is possible.  As I said above "until now".

The drop in boot weight for similar warmth and a lot more performance?

2008
La Sportiva Batura (45) 1st gen. 2# 7oz / 1106g   (one boot)
2013
Scarpa Rebel Ultra GTX (45)  1# 13oz  / 822 (one boot)


And by today's best for weight and warmth?

La Sportiva Batura 2.0  GTX   2# 2oz / 970g

Scarpa Phantom Ultra (2012)   2# 4oz / 1020g

Scarpa Phantom Guide (2012)  2# 7.5oz / 1120g

*Scarpa Phantom 6000 (2012) with Baruntse liner 2# 8oz / 1134g

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2013/01/scarpa-phantom-ultra-vs-la-sportiva.html


It is coming....

I know I'll take some heat for the next few comments.  But anyone with a clue will realise what I am saying next is not a diss to any one's abilities, but simply a recognition of where technology takes us next.

In the pre sticky rubber days, pre-Fire', climbs were harder.  If you were good at your craft the sticky rubber made a difference on what you were now able to climb.  It was in instant jump in your abilities.  That is fact.  When Friends came along just prior, those too allowed any one to climb things they might not have done other wise, safely.   The eventual change from a curved pick to a reverse curved pick was a huge jump on what mere mortals were capable of ice climbing.  Stretch garments that were also warm enough...another jump in technology and what would eventually be climbed.

Anyone that tells you gear doesn't matter is clueless. (no matter what your/his/her skill level)  From the RURP to the Nomic...gear matters.  You just need to be able to take advantage of the gear.  That I can't help you with.

Boreal's Mutant, "fruit boot".

So the boots?  There is a reason the hardest modern mixed gets sent in Fruit boots.  I have a pair myself.  Boreal Mutants in fact.  With crampons they weigh 2 # even per boot in my size 12.

My newest  Rebel Ultras with my lightest steel crampon 2#  9oz. total per boot.

The original Kolflach Ultra @ 3.5# with crampons. 

From April of 2010
"I'd really like to see a sub 3# dbl boot and fully technical crampon combination for my size 12 feet.  Size 12, Koflach Ultra, Aveolite inner boot, circa 1980, Chouinard hinged crampons, Beck/Chouinard straps. Total weight 3# 9oz."

The Rebel Ultra is most certainly not a double boot, but it is more than a simple single boot.  More importantly it is a 4 season (for many areas but not all) ice boot that has finally dropped a almost a full pound off the equation.    In comparison for hard technical climbing, the boot and the crampon have both been improved and now @ the 2# 11 oz. total weight.  The Rebel Ultra isn't perfect.  And it isn't as warm as it might be.  For the weight and performance right now, as in today?  No wishful thinking here.  Nothing even in the same league.   I have no doubt the industry is headed in the right direction with this boot.  Super low profile and volume for a full on mountain boot.  Rigid enough and most importantly,  supportive enough to climb endurance ice in,  as the Phantom Ultra has already proved prior.  The newest Ultra is a better boot yet for fit and support.  I'll be able to climb harder in this boot.  Most will.

 Dave in the Phantom Ultra on les Droites

 

When you are testing boots in the field, with the same crampons and go from 1210g boot to a boot that tops the scale at 822g there is a huge difference on your feet.   I did just that today.  Using a TLT5 P on one foot and the new Rebel Ultra on the other.  You couldn't easily pick a pair of boots that are so totally different in every way.   To start with almost a full pound difference per foot!  But both boots offer some real strengths.    Comparing them side by side was really interesting.  The first was just how warm and supportive the Rebel Ultra really was by comparison.  Big surprise!!  And only in really good ways.  The Ultra is a lot of boot @ 822g for a size 45.

On the newest Ultra I had not originally liked the gaiter.  I've climbed in almost every gaitered boot in existence to date.  Back to an original pair of Trappeurs.  Some were/are better than others.  The Rebel Ultra is very, very good by any comparison to any of them.  It also begs the pant to be stuffed into them to clear your feet and crampons.  Think true Fruit boot performance here.  Even if the boot will breath better with a pant over the gaiter, not in it.  Save the over the pant use for big, cold north walls.  It will keep the boot drier.   For that hard project, tuck the pant and clear your feet and crampons.  Nice option I had given up on a while ago in my other gaitered boots.

The ankle, tongue and lacing system on the Ultra is unique.  More importantly I am not sure that I have ever had such good ankle support, ankle flexibility and heel fit in a boot, ever.  Support and flexibility in one boot?  How does that work?  Not sure myself, but in this boot, it does.  And very well indeed.

The unique and excellent ankle wrap and support on the Ultra.

The tongue and ankle  is wrapped and locked via Velcro and the laces..  It makes an exceptionally supportive and well fitting boot.

The Rebel Ultra's volume compared to the Batura 2.0.  Don't let the looks fool you, it is a warmer boot than it might first appear with such low volume. 

 

The Ultra has a very snug and technical last.  It is a tight fitting boot.  Biggest complaint I heard of the Rebel Carbon last summer is that it fit on the small side.  I saw a number of used ones being sold early on because the tight last of the Rebel wasn't for every one's feet.  This boot will have a very similar last so buy accordingly.   But I suspect they will fit most if you size them correctly first time around.  I have a narrow foot but seem to fit Scarpa generally better than La Sportiva.  I find the fit in the Rebel line exceptional for my feet with enough room in the toe box and exceptional heel hold down.  The Ultra the best of the bunch on all counts so far.

 

Ultra is 10oz lighter per pair than a Batura 2.0 in a size 45.  With a precision fit like no other ice boot in existence to date.  The difference in volume and warmth should be clear in this picture.

.

 

The mid sole on this boot is close to being perfect IMO.  Rigid with the right crampon (Petzl) and flexible enough to walk in easily.

 

Crampons?  No surprise I suppose that the Petzl Darts fit perfectly with an asymmetrical connecting bar.  And they are a dream to climb in for overall weight and performance.  It is  slick combination.  The sole toe profile is tiny so good luck getting a great fit with out a Petzl front bail on your choice in crampons.  I am having a hard time telling you just how impressed I am with this boot.  I am running out of ways to say juts how good this boot really is.  How long will it last?  Not sure...don't care:) 

 

 

I venture to guess that the newest Rebel Ultra will grab the majority of market share in light weight  alpine and ice boots (including the Batura and Phantom Guide) and dominate the market in just its first full season.  Move fast enough and this boot will be warm enough.  And the drop in weight might just allow you to move "fast enough".  The other boot builders?  Take note.  You are looking at the future in performance.   The boot is insulated for warmth and Goretex lined for weather proofing.   As good as this new boot is the technology could so easily be bettered.

 

That prediction is so easily given.  Steck used the prototype of this boot to free the Nomine Crack in the Dru Coulior, mid Oct. 2010.  How many guys have been on the Dru Coulior in a virtual fruit boot?

 

"Italian Korra free'd this pitch, at M7+.... Good effort to Ueli onsight freeing this in the dark!!"  Will Sim

http://willsim.blogspot.com/2011/02/dru-couloir.html#!/2011/02/dru-couloir.html

 

 

The Dru Coulior

Photo courtesy of Dave Searle

 

In case you missed it?   Feb.  2010.  Ueli Steck, Ben Nevis, on the Secret,  X-10.  Scarpa  proto type boots.  Fruit boots again. Take a look at the lack of boot soles about 22:50

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uG95yGRaooY

 

 

If you have ever dry tooled in rock shoes.....you now know the difference this boot will make in the alpine.   The new Rebel Ultra GTX is going to change the game...again.  And for the better.   Save your pennies.  You are going to want this boot.  My bet is they will be hard to obtain the first year.  No guarantee but the link below might help if you are in North America.

 

http://www.scarpa.com/scarpa/products/MOUNTAIN/MOUNTAIN-TECH_MOUNTAIN/p_71028-200

 

 

 

The current Rebel Ultra, that is reviewed above.

 

 

 

 

 

The newest Rebel Pro GTX introduced at the Winter 2013 OR show.

Both of the newest boots are insulated for warmth and Goretex lined for weather proofing.

 

The original Rebel Carbon GTX on alpine rock last summer.

This boot deserves high marks in use.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Winter OR 2013

Remember a lot of the new gear and clothing I am showing here won't be available at your local retailers until summer (at best usually) or Fall of 2013!

It is a BIG show to cover in a couple of days. This year I got a late start and the driving was pretty bad, so my time was cut to just one full day at the show and a day in the BC at Alta on the snow.

Here were the highlights that interested me.  Some of it I have been using for a while and will have a review up soon.  Some I have and haven't yet used and some of it I will likely never see :)  And a bunch of it I am scrambling to get my hands on asap.

The nasty 800 mile drive was a great comparison of old and new technology, Julbo,  Vaurnet and Cebe sun glasses.  No flies here.  Review coming shortly.

Scarpa!  Even at the predicted price point (read expensive) I predict the Rebel Ultra will rock the NA alpine market!  These are just now hitting the warehouse in Colorado.  Review coming asap.  Going to take a lot to get me out of the Phantom Ultra.  My hybrid 6000 did that.  But the Rebel Ultra may well keep me out of them year around.

 

Dang!  Edit note: 2/5/13 A reader, Zgemba, noted the new toe on the Rebel Carbon which I had missed!!   Actually a new boot called the Rebal Pro GTX.  Which is a INSULATED Rebel Carbon with clip on crampon attachments.  (Thanks Raf! )   The new sole allows for clip on crampons and it is insulated.  Both are a huge improvement over the Rebel GTX for the majority of my own use.  Nice catch Zgemba and Raf!  Damn it!  Now I want two new pairs of boots.  It never ends!!

 

 

 Ski Trab, skis and bindings.  One of the major players in ski mountaineering which you are about to hear more of.

Scarpa SkiMo race boots....hugely popular.  More to come. Gotta wonder how they climb :)

A quick look at the newest Dynafit skis.  I'm waiting for my own pair of the bright red Nanga Parbat.  Going to be hard to impress me after two seasons on the Broad Peak and another on the Seven Summit. They promise me I will be impressed.

The newest TLT6 with no TLT5 in sight!!  That hurts!  More weight, stiffer boot.  Not the direction I would have preferred.  So I am stocking up on the TLT5 first.

Dynafit 115g (yes 4oz. total weight) and 160g (5.5oz total weight) race bindings.  I have been skiing *everywhere* the last two years on the 115g Low Tech Race and the Dynafit Broad Peak skis.

And a damn fine climbing boot it is as well!   In my size 45s?

La Sportiva Batura 2.o. 2#2oz / 970g

La Sportiva Trango Evo Extreme GTX 2#3oz (35oz) / 992g
Scarpa Phantom Ultra new 2010 model 2#3.5oz (35.5oz) / 1006g
Scarpa Phantom Guide new 2010 model 2#7.5oz / 1120g
La Sportiva Batura 2nd gen. 2#9oz / 1170g
La Sportiva Nepal Evo 2#10.5oz / 1205g

The DyNA PDG is 870g per boot in a 29 shell or 1.9 POUNDS....1 # 14oz or 30oz! Dropping a full 10oz per pair off my size 45 from the lightest FABRIC ice climbing boot!

More on ski packs from Camp and Dynafit coming

Outdoor Research just floored me with all the great alpine and ice gloves they are no making today.  OR has always been good.  Now?  Simply stunning with such a broad collection of speciality gloves.    Look for a full review of every model I think is exceptional from OR...and there are a lot of them!  Bravo OR!

La Sportiva's new SkiMo race boot!  You'll have to stand in line to get these.  Short line but it is STEEP buy in!  Yes, sick as it is I want some!

And La Sportiva's SkiMo boot for the normal folks.

This one from Petzl made me crazy.  A bolt on "Dart" reinvented.  Now we just need a clip on model...Please!!  Oh, PLEASE Santa!!!  Lynx meets Dart...finally!  Wel almost anyway.  My bet is they are floating around Chamonix already.  Anyone care to hold that bet for me?

 

 

One, if not THE, coolest thing at the show...Petzl's new hand sharpener for ice screws.  This thing really rocks.  You'll never have to send me (or anyone else) your screws again

Petzls newest ice screws, now with a crank, new teeth and a aluminum version that should again...rock the alpine world!   Hopefully more on these two coming up.

Petzl harnesses always deserve a second look.

The one item I saw that really opened up my imagination this show. Always a surprise what that "ONE" piece of gear might be.  Last summer it was the new Scarpa Rebel Ultra.  This show surprisingly it was the new Arcane Hoody from the Canada's Westcomb.  Sewn at home.  A stretch Shoeller super light weight soft shell, fully water proof and breathable with taped seams and 180g of Primaloft.  This thing is going to make the Duelly obsolete.  And almost half the retail price!  It is NUMBER ONE on my hit list right now. 

Speaking of the Duelly...the Solo (one layer of insulation)  now has a hood and is back with the Duelly (two layers of insulation) and some small fit changes!  Awesome climbing jackets.  And a bunch of new down from Arcteryx as well.

 

La Sportivas new 4 buckle full on combat AT boots. .the lightest weight boot in that category we were told