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The cold world of skimo & alpine climbing

The cold world of skimo & alpine climbing

Thursday, February 25, 2016

Scarpa Phantom Tech review




I wrote the Phantom Ultra reviews starting in Sept 2010!  It took some 3 years to catch up with the significance of this boot.

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/09/scarpa-phantom-ultra.html



                                                  Photo courtesy of Jonathon Griffith
                               

Ueli Steck wasn't one to wonder if a lwt boot would suffice on cold ice. The Ultra was never imported into North America but available in Europe. I still think the Phantom Ultra was a much better boot than the Phantom Guide having used both boots.

I try to keep up on  a few things..alpine boots being one of them.  I've not missed La Sportiva's new dbl boot entry or Arcteryx's new "dbl" boot line .  I was involved on the ground floor in both ideas.

I think the next step in the evolution of boot technology was the Scarpa Rebel Ultra.  I suspect Scarpa did as well hence the name.."Ultra".





Having used the Rebel Ultra mid winter @ altitude in the Alps I can say it worked fine...but could be a little warmer :)  The Phantom Ultra was just a little warmer.  I suspect the newest Phantom Tech to be a even better boot than the Phantom Ultra was and ....every bit as good of boot as the Rebel Ultra is now.   Thanks to Grammy for the updates. 

Photo courtesy of Chris Graham 
More coming shortly on the Phantom Tech from a few of us that buy are own boots, and that are just now starting to use the Phantom Tech..

I'll update this review as I get more info.

Today it is weights.

All boots are size 45 and weighed on my postal scale

Rebel Pro Goretex  852g
Rebel Ultra             860g
Phantom Tech        970g (Scarpa listed @ 815g for a 42)
Phantom Ultra      1030g
Phantom Guide    1120g
Phantom 6000      1160g   (last generation with a Baruntse liner)   (Newest 6000 is listed @ 995g for a 42)

Quick high points?

The new Phantom Tech drops 2 full ounces per boot from the older Phantom Ultra.
4 oz. for the pair in my size 45.

Both Toes and heel crampon attachment points have changed for the better.  Any crampon will fit the newest Phantom  boot much better.

The boot sole and the ankle articulation of the new Phantom Tech are way, WAY stiffer than the ultra, Guide or Rebel Ultra.

While you wouldn't think the internals of the boot would have changed much..that would be an incorrect assumption.

Anyone climbing in a Phantom Guide now will be pretty impressed I think with the changes in the Phantom Tec.  There is a reason there is no longer a Phantom Guide model available. (at least in North America)  For once I actually agree with Scarpa's marketing plan here :)  It is a very nice boot.

Super light generally means less durable.  Slightly higher and much more durable gaiter than the old Ultra or Guide.  The new wrap around gaiter is suppose to be the chit.  I am with holding my opinion on that one till I get some time in the boot.

Over all?  It is lighter than the Ultra my previous high point for boot design.   It would appear to be warmer and at least from the rubber sole up.  And at first blush it seems to be a warmer boot than the Ultra.  Comparable to the Batura and Phantom Guide I think.  May be warmer than either.  Or at least that is what my trashed feet are telling me.   That info and the source is not as reliable as they once were :)  A super light technical ice and mixed boot.  It is not a double boot for warmth.  But it is the best thing I have seen in a "warm" single to date.

Boots this light and agile will change how you climb.

9 comments:

Anthony Orkiolla said...

Dane,

The rebel ultra was just too narrow for my fat feet. I had to give them up. Does this gain any width, or is it the same last/sizing?

Dane said...

Worth trying I'd guess. They seem wider than the older Phantom Ultra to me. Which means they'll be wider than the Rebel Ultra. Don't think the two boots (Phantom/Rebel) use the same last but that is just my "foot feel" nothing specific for you past that.

Stefan said...

I climb in a La sportiva Nepal Evo GTX in Austrian Winter and want a warmer boot for longer Routes as I get really cold Toes on longer Belays. Do you think the Phantom Tech will do, or just get the new 6000 and have a bit of extra warmth?

Front Pointing will compromise on the 6000 I think, but if they got the new one also stiffer than the old ones I think I should be fine with that.

High Altitude is not neccesary ( At the Moment I'm fine with the Austrian Alps, but maybe with the warmer Boot I'll try some Western Alps Winter Climbing )

Cheers
Stefan

Dane said...

The Phantom Tech won't be much warmer than your Nepals. I'd try the 6000 (which I really like on steep ice with a better inner boot) or the La Sportiva G2 is another good choice for warmer feet.

Stefan said...

Thank you for your sugestion. I think I will get the 6000 then, as my local Shop has them.

Cheers Stefan

Unknown said...

total heel lock down, lighter, warmer, stiffer and edges better than the batura. crampon fit (grivel, petzl) is finally what it should be no more swapping in diff brand bails. really stoked on this boot.

Mike Gillam said...

Dane,

Do you think the Phantom Techs would be a good (warm?) ice/mountaineering boot for the North East? New Hampshire, Adks, Vermont...

Mike

Dane said...

Mike, I think the new Tech boots are a solid choice for most winter climbing short of a double boot/temps. I used my Ultras every where and in some pretty cold weather. The Tech version is "just" a lighter, warmer version of the older Ultra. Pretty high praise from me.

Minor said...

Any update after a season? Looking to get something to replace my old, heavy, cold Nepals.