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The cold world of skimo & alpine climbing

The cold world of skimo & alpine climbing
Showing posts with label boot reviews. Show all posts
Showing posts with label boot reviews. Show all posts

Saturday, September 21, 2013

Dynafit ONE and TLT6 comparison?





I do have some additional long term ski boot reviews in the pipeline but here is an interesting observation from this week that kinda surprised me.   Although I have both boots in the closet and have skied the ONE a bunch the thought never occurred to me to make a comparison.

Thursday, September 19, 2013

The Dynafit TLT6 ski boot, shake and rebake!

 
Lets see if I can sort through some of the early Internet misinformation and misrepresentation on the TLT6.  Admittedly some of it clearly my fault here @  C-T no matter how unintentional.

First up lets talk shells and add some definitive comparison numbers to the older TLT5.

Zamberlan 4000 Eiger Ice boot...

 
A few years ago at Winter OR I stumbled across a boot company called Zamberlan.  Honestly I can't remember if I had heard of them prior.  May be in Europe some time but I simply don't remember now.  Friend Jonathon Miller and fellow guides at the show really liked their Zamberlan boots and tried in vain to get me hooked up with Zamberlan that winter,
 

Wednesday, September 18, 2013

Mammut Eiger Extreme Nordwand TL Boots




Mammut sez:

"Despite a complete range of technical features, this full-gaiter boot is the lightest in its category, making it a perfect fit for the Eiger Extreme range."

Weight is not the end all for even a weight weenie like me.  But since it is the very first comment of the online Mammut description I'll address that.

Tuesday, September 17, 2013

The C-T Dream Boot ? One of a few BTW.

 
 
 
In a recent  Dynafit TLT 6 boot conversation on the TGR tech forum (skiing specific)
http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/showthread.php/266818-Dyna-TLT6

 I was asked,  
 
"What would you have done (differently), aside from creating a One/Mercury/Vulcan? (honestly curious)"
 
My answer if you are interested is below.   Add a comment if this is a boot you would like to see built.  'Cuz it would be so easy to do!
 
 
"Gotta realise where I am coming from. It aint skiing.

Wednesday, August 28, 2013

Dynafit TLT6 for Fall of 2013

TLT6 with the unavailable currently CL liner
My TLT6 P came with the CR liners which I really like btw. 
Everyone is trying  to figure out the actual weight difference of the CL and CR liners.
 
Edit:
Turns out some of my comments here were based on a preproduction sample.
For the most part the info is accurate but  not always on the minute details.  An example is the One and TLT6 buckles are very similar but not exactly the same.  The last PF-X liner is close but not exactly the same as the production CR liner.  My impressions habven't changed o nthe TLT6 but I strive to be accurate in the deatils so you cna better make up you own mind what is important to you.
 
If you want more detail worth a look here as well on an additional review of a production sample :

The original review below, written in June 2013 after a couple of weeks with the TLT6:

OK, I'll admit it, I am a little pissed.

In late winter and early Spring of 2011 Dynafit started delivering on something special few of us had seen before.    That was the TLT 5 ski mountaineering boot.

Finally a ski boot that would climb ice almost  as well as a decent ice climbing boot and in the right circumstances may be better than some.
 
 
 
So why am I pissed and pointing all this out?    Because as everyone knows or should know by now there are plenty of really good ski boots in the world.  And damn few, real ski mountaineering boots.   Light weight boots you can ski and climb in without your foot wear  ever coming to mind.  The emphasis is on the mountaineering not the skiing so much.  

Dynafit buckled (forgive the pun) under the pressure to build another ski boot and as a result, for the most part folded up the TLT5 and put it away.

My suggestion if you want to climb technical ground in your ski boots?  Hunt the TLT5s down now and buy a pair while you still can.   Either model 5, it doesn't matter.

No question the the newest TLT 6 version is a better ski boot than the original TLT5.    But sweet Mary!!!....I wish Dynafit had gone in the opposite direction and built a better technical ski mountaineering boot instead of a a "better" ski boot.  The public's voice was clear.  There are a lot more skiers than ski mountaineers.   Even if they aren't reading about it here on Cold Thistle most asked, "Build us a better ski boot!"  And Dynafit did just that. 

Now, would someone build us a better climbing boot that skis well?

Overall boot weight is claimed the same on a 27.5 TLT even with the heavier warmer/better fitting  TLT 6 inner boot.

Dynafit's published info fro a 27.5:
1050g  tlt 5 P
1050g  tlt 6 P

"Chris said...
Just received my TLT6Ps with the new CR liner and can compare them to my old TLT5Ps. In a 29.0, the TLT6 shell weighs about an ounce more than the 5. The TLT6 CR liner weighs 2.5 ounces more than the flimsy TLT5 P-TF liner. Total weight difference is 3.5 oz (100g)  per boot."  TLT5 P being  lighter. "

Sorry, I don't have comparable sizes yet to weigh.  There are subtle changes in the boots but the weigh stayed the same mostly by dropping the LTW  inner boot of the TLT 5.

For most of us skiing is the priority on a $1000 retail boot.  Which with the carbon Performance version skiing is clearly the priority.  $750 for the Mountain version.  If the previous boots are any example both ski much better than any light weigh boot has a right to.  They simply ski very well.  I found a preference in the TLT5 for no tongue or power strap on the carbon Performance and use the tongue and power strap on the Mountain version unless I am in really light weight skis.  I also found I liked the Mountain version just a tiny bit better for booting and climbing because it is just a tiny bit softer and a more progressive flex when skiing when all buckled up and strapped in.  Both are very good boots.

I found  the TLT6 version every bit the ski boot and then some of the TLT5.

Eliminating the forward foot flex makes the TLT6 a better ski boot no doubt.  But any hiking or climbing in mixed terrain makes me miss that feature immediately.  I suspect having a size 29 shell and jamming my foot into it makes that flex something I notice and like.  Others simply riveted the TLT 5 toe solid their first season if not week.   Those that did will really like the TLT6.  Smaller toe profile on the TLT6 a result of loosing the hinge.




Buckles have changed some but not always as one might assume.   Certainly not lower profile in every case.  Hopefully they will stay buckled now on breakable crust of the nasty boot packs or even moderate skin tracks.  The fist generation TLT5 hasn't.  One of the TLT5's few faults imo.  Teh nect generation  forward buckle with a "stud" did better.   The new buckles are a different profile and shape which should solve the problem.  The spring snow conditions I skied the TLT6 in didn't allow me to test my theory on a "better buckle system" for staying shut.   I suspect Dynafit did.  I did however use pretty much the same two buckles on my Dynafit Ones all of last season and was pleased with them.  Although the One's instep buckle is higher up on the foot and better placed to lock in the heel in I think.  If the performance on the One is any example it is a better buckle system on the TLT6 by comparison to the TLT5.

If you are looking for a "better AT ski boot" with an emphasis on skiing, the Dynafit One is a pretty good answer btw.  I've been very pleased with the One PX TF when used on my 190cm and longer, 100mm+  skis.  No lack of power in reasonable conditions and very comfortable.   I have a comparison I have been working on since mid summer between the Dynafit One and the Scarpa Maestrale RS.  Short version spoiler?  "Both are very good ski boots!" :)

The real find here IMO is the boot Dynafit has yet to build.  A stripped TLT6 with a fiberglass cuff, the One's upper two buckle sytem and a Pebax lower.  I want that boot!




 
 


 
 
 
Instep buckle is larger and has been reversed, then doubled for more adjustment on the TLT6.
 



 
New cuff buckle on the TLT6 (lower picture) does wrap around better (one extra hinge point) and offer a lower profile on the boot.

 

The TLT6 now has a easily adjustable forward lean adjustment in the cuff.  Thankfully this is a part you can buy and upgrade your own boots with.  Lots of toys to play with on this boot.

 
TLT5 mid sole or lack of


 
TLT6 insulated full length insole
 
I also failed to mention the TLT6 now comes with a soft and a hard tongue at no extra charge.  Yellow and green. Easy to tell apart.   In my first reviews of the TLT5 Mountain and Performance several years ago that option seemed like a no brainier for Dynafit.
 
So if you are listening :)  How about a Pebax lower and fiber glass cuff  TLT6 with a the two upper buckles of a ONE and no extra nonsense.  A metal on metal cuff rivet while you are there as well.  No tongues, no power strap and a lwt Palau foam liner?  Please?   


The TLT6 has been widened in the forefoot to enhance the fit for the general public.  2mm on the instep side, and 1mm added to the outside of the boot.  I dare anyone to do a blind test and tell me the TLT6 is a wider boot over the TLT5.   Helping address one of the most easily identified complaints from those using the TLT5 lift skiing...boot warmth,  is a warmer, full length insole has been added.  It is  easy enough to see.


 
Inner boot?  Late last season I bought a pair of TLT Mountains that have virtually the same inner boot that the TLT6 has now.  Gone at least in the US is the excellent (IMO) Palau heat moldable and exceptionally light foam liner except for the race PDG version and the DyNA here in  North America.  Rumors are the RL liner will eventually be avialable.  My guess is Dynafit is simply punishing the American's (rightfully so IMO) for complaining too much and then adding Intuitions.  (Dynafit comment below sums it up "best for this market")    Replacing the liner in the TLTP 6 is a slightly heavier (I am saying  100g +/- max)  and better fitting (for my feet)  heat moldable liner this season in both versions of the TLT6.  Although Dynafit claims you don't even need heat to mold them.  "Just wear them skiing."  I am always leery of that as an option.  But that seems to actually be the truth from the early reviews I trust.   For a $950+ retail boot you would think they could do much, much better.  But may be I just don't really understand the technology here.  Seriously.  It is possible and I could be wrong.  because I really like the CR liner.  But I also heat molded them.
 
Did he say?
"more down hill orienteed"
 
I've used the original Mountain's liner, the original Performance liner, a Intuition Pro Tour liner and now seemingly the newest version ( or at least a very close copy) that comes in the TLT6P.  The new liner is heavier by a few grams but is also better in every way but weight for my feet.  Likely most feet.
 
This from Dynafit on 9/16 :
- The TLT6s are available in North America with only the CR liner. They are the best for this market, warmer, more downhill oriented, adeguately thermo customizable (in the mean time it's not compulsory to thermo form them, - The fit of the liners is now done without footbed. In this way the skier can adapt the personal anatomy on the soft bottom layer of the liner. This layer changes thickness between the full and half size
 
 
Bottom line?  TLT6 is an awesome back country AT ski boot.  Better by a fair bit in several ways that the TLT5.  Including the new inner boot I think.  Smaller over all outer volume.  Same weight, wider fit, warmer boot, better buckles.  No metatarsal joint to flex on the boot.  Loosing the sole flex alone makes it a better ski boot.  It is worth repeating again.."better ski boot".
 
If you really want a climbing boot to ski in buy the TLT5 if you can still find them on discount.
But you aren't loosing much there either with the newest TLT6.  I may not like the trend to a better ski boot over "a better climbing boot" but the TLT6  is without question an exceptional boot and clearly an improved TLT5.
 

The liner options? Guess they didn't just drop a PDG or the old P liner in the new TLT6 as the CL liner.  Turns out the CL is very similar but slightly different, with laces now, more reinforcement for durability and a bigger flex cuff in the boot shaft. Thickness of the foam is different (1mm maybe 2mm, I am still checking) as well between TLT and EVO. PDG and Evo liners are thinner and offer an even easier ankle flex for a longer stride. But the thin PDG/EVO liner might be an option if you need more room in your TLT?!  Go down a shell sixe on the tLT6 and use the EVO liner?  Might be worth a try.
 
TLT6 liners?  CL liner on the left.  CR liner on the right.
Photo courtesy of www.mountainski.eu
 
 
Great early TLT6 review here as well:
 
 
 
   Interested to see what the foam liner will actually show, if it is ever available in the US...and what else is available in Europe.  
 
 
 
 
 
Now, how about a real, "mountaineering/ski" boot?
Anyone going to step up and dominate that market share?
 


 
Late '70s Scott ski boot.  With a Vibram sole glued on they were a useful LWT mountaineering double boot that you could actually ski in. 

Tuesday, August 6, 2013

The "new" alpine ice boots?

These are all new to me and the blog anyway.   After all the blog is suppose to about alpine ice and winter climbing.  Not the foo-foo world of skiing :)  Some really good boots available these days for cold weather climbing.  The key is finding the one pair that fits YOU the best!  Hopefully I'll be able to shed some light on that part of the process with the up coming reviews, weights and comparisons.

A few of the boots here now or coming shortly for reviews.  I can do better than the stock pictures I pulled off the net this morning :)

Zamberlan
3000 PAINE PLUS GTX RR



4000 EIGER RR



6000 DENALI RR


Asolo

 EIGER





 
 
 
 
 
La Sportiva Nepal Cube

 
 
 
 
 
 
Mammut Nordwand TL
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Lowa 6000
 
 
and the newest Lowa 6000 below
 
 
Lowa Katok XT

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Salewa Pro Guide
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Scarpa Rebel Pro
 
 
 

Wednesday, July 24, 2013

La Sportiva Nepal Cube?

Nepal is one of the very best all around boots from La Spotiva.  And it just keeps getting better.

This is a quick look the newest CUBE version.  Carbon honey comb mid sole like the Batura 2.0 and a new toe cap as well.  The Batura 2.0 was a total revamp of the Batura.  I'd expect the same make over with the Nepal.  More than first meets the eye generally from La Sportiva.   Available  Fall of 2013.

 
 

Tuesday, June 25, 2013

La Sportiva? Back at ya, with the CUBE!



Just when I think there is a leap ahead for alpine boots someone else jumps back in and does a flash burn.

Many have asked me when will La Sportiva update the aging Nepal Evo and Trango Series of boots.  Like I'd have a clue.  I hadn't heard a even whisper out of La Sportiva.   And didn't expect anything new at the up coming summer OR show for Spring 2014 delivery.

Clueless again, guess I got that wrong!

New Trango Cube GTX


"the new state-of-the-art mountaineering boots - Nepal Cube GTX and Trango Cube GTX - set new standards in lightweight and waterproof properties for this sector. Trango Cube in particular has been made using the new and exclusive Thermo Tech Injection method, a thermoplastic coating that eliminates traditional stitching, making the boot even more water resistant than ever before."

http://www.lasportiva.it/news_approfondimento.html?&L=1&tx_ttnews%5Btt_news%5D=2398&cHash=d153fab90d5a36947a2e9e2d146f8253

Sunday, June 23, 2013

the best of the lwt ice climbing boots

 The LWT ice boots:

 
Things have changed in the last couple of years and it continues to be for the better!
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 Scrapa Rebel Ultra size 45 1# 14oz
Scarpa Phantom Ultra size 45 weight 2# 4oz
 


La Sportiva Trango Extr Evo GTX size 45 weight 2# 3oz

 
La Sportiva Batura 2.0 size 45 2# 2oz
 
 
 

La Sportiva Trango Extr Evo GTX size 45 weight 2# 3oz



 


 
Larger volume on the left,  the Batura 2.0 and the smaller volume, the Rebel Ultra, on the right
All these boots fall between these two for volume and warmth. 


 weights are PER Boot:
 
Scrapa Rebel Ultra size 45    1# 14oz
 
La Sportiva Batura 2.0 size 45  2# 2oz

Scarpa Phantom Ultra size 45 weight 2# 4oz

La Sportiva Trango Extr Evo GTX size 45 weight 2# 3oz

Zamberlan Paine GTX  2# 8oz

(how much do your gaiters weigh?)

Every boot listed here except the Trango has a gaiter built in.
All are Goretex lined.  Except the Phantom Ultra.  Which is notable imo.

La Sportiva Trango Prime is another  boot that would fit this category.

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/11/la-sportiva-trango-prime-trango-extreme.html
 
These are five of my favorite lwt single boots for winter use.  Given the option  it is a hard decision on which to choose when looking at the temps that will easily allow any of them.

Soles flexibility depends on you shoe size.  The bigger the boot the more flexible the boot sole.
All of these boots are rigid enough for vertical ice using the right crampons.  "Right" crampon choice on these boots is the key to performance IMO.

Scarpa's Phantom Ultra 
 
Phantom Ultra in use with a Petzl Dartwin


I am a big boy weight wise.   190# stripped and a good bit more kitted out on the ice.  The Scarpa Ultra (both versions) and a Dartwin is IMO a very good set up for vertical ice.   This coming for a guy who really prefers a rigid crampon and rigid boot mid sole.   I learned to appreciate the softer flexing mid soles Scarpa has offered recently.

But given a choice I still like a fairly rigid boot with lots of support.  The lighter weight the better, imo.

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2013/01/true-love-dane-and-his-boots.html

  
Let me do a run down of my thoughts on each and let you choose.

I have long skinny feet with very (VERY) narrow ankles. I'm a Size 45 or 45.5 in these boots. The Scarpa and Zamberlan lasts seem to fit me the best.   I see a lot of comments saying the La Sportivas are a narrower last.    I am not convinced as I can wear any of them with little complaint.  Best to always try on the boots you want to consider.  I find all of the boots listed very close on sizing and lasts.  Only toe boxes changing the fit very much  and of course the lacing systems.  For me lacing systems are best designed, KISS.  KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID.   They make or a break a boot in the end.  I think that gets forgotten some times by the design teams.  I run between a 45 and a 45.5 in all of these boots.

Here is my 2 second review on all of them.

Scrapa Rebel Ultra size 45 1# 14oz

Best fit of the bunch for me in a 45.5 by far.  Easy enough to get in and out of.  Lacing is slick and ankle support very good.  I like this boot.  For the fit and support it offers for the weight I'll put up with the lack of warmth to a point.  1/2# per pair lighter than the Batura.

La Sportiva Batura 2.0 size 45 2# 2oz

Likely the warmest of the boots listed.  But the Phantom Ultra is right in there as well.  Very flexible ankle and a high tech honeycomb carbon mid sole.  Hard to not like this boot.  I find the lace system annoying.  If the lace system offered a better fit for me this would likely be "my" boot.  

Scarpa Phantom Ultra size 45 weight 2# 4oz

Advantage Scarpa here.  Almost the fit of a Rebel Ultra.  Almost the warmth of the Batura.  Heavier than either.  Easy in and out.  They dry faster than any of the GTX boots and they climb well.   I suspect they dry faster because they never get as wet on the inside.  The Goldilocks boot?  May be.  It needs a Scarpa update and to be imported into North America in half sizes.  Likely never ever happen though.  Phantom Guide is already well established in the market.
  
La Sportiva Trango Extreme Evo GTX size 45 weight 2# 3oz

Super slid all around performer.  This is the boot that needed a gaiter.  One designed "out of the box." But a super hard boot to dry out once  wet.  I really like this boot for a lot of reasons.  The best reason?  It is simple and it works every where.....till it gets wet inside. 

Zamberlan Paine GTX 2# 8oz

Old school fit and finish.  Which are good things.  The mid sole is pretty rigid and very supportive.  They fit almost crampon exceptionally well.  Not every boot here does.  They are a bit heavy.  But the craftsmanship and materials clearly show you why they are  6oz heavier per boot than the Batura 2.0.  If you have the money for only one boot and need it to last for a while.  This is your boot.    May be the most comfortable boot of the bunch for me out of the box.

FWIW until recently the Zamberlan boots were extremely hard to get a hold of in the USA.   That has changed.  I'll have full, detailed reviews up shortly on the Paine, Eiger and Denali versions.  They are boots you will want to know more about.  Took me 3 years to finally get a pair in hand and I think, worth the wait.

They are available here:
http://www.prolitegear.com/Zamberlan.htm

All but two of the boots offer sticky rubber soles with minimal lug height. The Zamberlan Paine and the La Sportiva Batura 2.0 being the exceptions with a full size lugs.   Makes short lugs a little slick in some snow conditions.  But that is why we wear crampons isn't it? 

I have heard of the Trango having too narrow of a foot print and being unpleasant on trails..an "ankle twister".     "BS" was my first thought...but I heard it more than once and always from people I trust using the boot. Not something I personally experienced though.  And I have walked a bunch in the Trangos. 

The Ultra is a OutDry lined boot. The rest Goretex lined boots.

All stay dry if you keep the water below boot top height. The GTX boots seems to retain more moisture from foot sweat. All are difficult to dry once wet.

More here on an Ultra and Trango comparison I made earlier.  I was wrong on the Dart/Dartwin/Ultra combo btw.  There are crampons that can be made to fit better but none more reliable and proven over the last couple of years now than the Scarpa-Dartwin combo.

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/12/phantom-ultra-vs-trango-extreme-gtx.html

Lots of options these days to get a really good boot and more importantly to me a GOOD fit.  It has not always been so in this category of boot.  Some work to be done yet.

As I have mentioned so many times previous.
A super light weight double boot that will climb ice, under the magic 1.5# in a size 45.  And something you can actually dry in the field over night should be the on every one's mind.    

Till then I will do my best to wear a few of these out!


 

Wednesday, June 12, 2013

Heads up!? Rebel Ultras are now shipping in North America.



Few pieces of gear I would ever bother to make this kind of announcement on.  Any particular piece of gear I think is *that*  good I will typically want a spare of.  The Ultra is, imo,  *THAT* good.  Only time and other users can verify that fact.  I heard today that the Ultra has arrived in numbers at warehouse in Colorado for North America deliveries.

I'll have more to say about this boot once I get out of my ski boots and get time in them again.  Till then my earlier review is below.  If you are interested in a LWT boot and why you should be, check out the second link that Eric wrote.  My guess is the first shipment of the Ultra will sell out quickly and we'll be screwed here in NA waiting for the 2nd shipment to come in late Fall.  Can't say you weren't warned.  Or I could be totally full of shite.  We'll have to wait and see if my prediction is true or not.  I'm not taking a chance.  Even if that means owning two pair.

Funny, I noted in recent photos of Ueli Steck's gear room half a dozen pairs of the new Ultras.  Now that is a pretty pathetic gear geek to be looking at photos of some guys gear room, right?  Also noted I haven't seen Steck in any other boot but the newest Ultra since they made production and well prior to production as well,  back to Steck and Carolyn George's ascent of the Dru Couloir, 10/2010.  Take that for what it is worth.

http://intothemountains.com/2010/10/16/drus-north-couloir/

Boot links below:

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2013/02/the-scarpa-rebels-part-one-ultra.html

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/05/why-weight-of-your-footwear-is.html