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The cold world of alpine climbing.

The cold world of alpine climbing.

Sunday, February 3, 2013

Winter OR 2013

Remember a lot of the new gear and clothing I am showing here won't be available at your local retailers until summer (at best usually) or Fall of 2013!

It is a BIG show to cover in a couple of days. This year I got a late start and the driving was pretty bad, so my time was cut to just one full day at the show and a day in the BC at Alta on the snow.

Here were the highlights that interested me.  Some of it I have been using for a while and will have a review up soon.  Some I have and haven't yet used and some of it I will likely never see :)  And a bunch of it I am scrambling to get my hands on asap.

The nasty 800 mile drive was a great comparison of old and new technology, Julbo,  Vaurnet and Cebe sun glasses.  No flies here.  Review coming shortly.


Scarpa!  Even at the predicted price point (read expensive) I predict the Rebel Ultra will rock the NA alpine market!  These are just now hitting the warehouse in Colorado.  Review coming asap.  Going to take a lot to get me out of the Phantom Ultra.  My hybrid 6000 did that.  But the Rebel Ultra may well keep me out of them year around.
 
Dang!  Edit note: 2/5/13 A reader, Zgemba, noted the new toe on the Rebel Carbon which I had missed!!   Actually a new boot called the Rebal Pro GTX.  Which is a INSULATED Rebel Carbon with clip on crampon attachments.  (Thanks Raf! )   The new sole allows for clip on crampons and it is insulated.  Both are a huge improvement over the Rebel GTX for the majority of my own use.  Nice catch Zgemba and Raf!  Damn it!  Now I want two new pairs of boots.  It never ends!!
 
 



 Ski Trab, skis and bindings.  One of the major players in ski mountaineering which you are about to hear more of.





Scarpa SkiMo race boots....hugely popular.  More to come. Gotta wonder how they climb :)

A quick look at the newest Dynafit skis.  I'm waiting for my own pair of the bright red Nanga Parbat.  Going to be hard to impress me after two seasons on the Broad Peak and another on the Seven Summit. They promise me I will be impressed.


The newest TLT6 with no TLT5 in sight!!  That hurts!  More weight, stiffer boot.  Not the direction I would have preferred.  So I am stocking up on the TLT5 first.





Dynafit 115g (yes 4oz. total weight) and 160g (5.5oz total weight) race bindings.  I have been skiing *everywhere* the last two years on the 115g Low Tech Race and the Dynafit Broad Peak skis.



And a damn fine climbing boot it is as well!   In my size 45s?
La Sportiva Batura 2.o. 2#2oz / 970g
La Sportiva Trango Evo Extreme GTX 2#3oz (35oz) / 992g
Scarpa Phantom Ultra new 2010 model 2#3.5oz (35.5oz) / 1006g
Scarpa Phantom Guide new 2010 model 2#7.5oz / 1120g
La Sportiva Batura 2nd gen. 2#9oz / 1170g
La Sportiva Nepal Evo 2#10.5oz / 1205g

The DyNA PDG is 870g per boot in a 29 shell or 1.9 POUNDS....1 # 14oz or 30oz! Dropping a full 10oz per pair off my size 45 from the lightest FABRIC ice climbing boot!


More on ski packs from Camp and Dynafit coming





Outdoor Research just floored me with all the great alpine and ice gloves they are no making today.  OR has always been good.  Now?  Simply stunning with such a broad collection of speciality gloves.    Look for a full review of every model I think is exceptional from OR...and there are a lot of them!  Bravo OR!



La Sportiva's new SkiMo race boot!  You'll have to stand in line to get these.  Short line but it is STEEP buy in!  Yes, sick as it is I want some!


And La Sportiva's SkiMo boot for the normal folks.


This one from Petzl made me crazy.  A bolt on "Dart" reinvented.  Now we just need a clip on model...Please!!  Oh, PLEASE Santa!!!  Lynx meets Dart...finally!  Wel almost anyway.  My bet is they are floating around Chamonix already.  Anyone care to hold that bet for me?
 
 
One, if not THE, coolest thing at the show...Petzl's new hand sharpener for ice screws.  This thing really rocks.  You'll never have to send me (or anyone else) your screws again

Petzls newest ice screws, now with a crank, new teeth and a aluminum version that should again...rock the alpine world!   Hopefully more on these two coming up.

Petzl harnesses always deserve a second look.

The one item I saw that really opened up my imagination this show. Always a surprise what that "ONE" piece of gear might be.  Last summer it was the new Scarpa Rebel Ultra.  This show surprisingly it was the new Arcane Hoody from the Canada's Westcomb.  Sewn at home.  A stretch Shoeller super light weight soft shell, fully water proof and breathable with taped seams and 180g of Primaloft.  This thing is going to make the Duelly obsolete.  And almost half the retail price!  It is NUMBER ONE on my hit list right now. 


Speaking of the Duelly...the Solo (one layer of insulation)  now has a hood and is back with the Duelly (two layers of insulation) and some small fit changes!  Awesome climbing jackets.  And a bunch of new down from Arcteryx as well.
 


La Sportivas new 4 buckle full on combat AT boots. .the lightest weight boot in that category we were told

10 comments:

PÅ TUR MED OLSEN said...

The steel tip alu screws from petzl are amazing. I tried them some weeks ago. But was not allowed to take photos. Not sure how light they are, but my guess is at least half the weight of a all steel ice screw. And twice as easy to place! I also saw the e-climb screw which I think is kind of the original and already (?) available on the market. I think e-climb with a great product as this deserves more attention.

Dersu said...

I first saw the prototype Petzl ice screws areound a year ago. The sponsored climber who had them told me, that he didn't like them that much, since ice and snow were hard to "clean" from the screw because of the aluminum. Let's hope Petzl managed to resolve that issue.

Not many impressive pieces of clothing this year Dane?

Kerwin. said...

Good stuff Dane. You might have missed some stuff, but your post covers all the important bits!

Really looking forward to this rebel ultras, any price guess?

Jon Rhoderick said...

other things to be psyched on
Eurotape will be sold from Trango, apparently the best white tape for crack climbing
New sportiva hardshell (did you see that one Dane?)
Metolius lighter hexes and 8.9mm rope

Dane said...

Thanks Kerwin. $539 on the Rebel Ultras.

http://www.scarpa.com/scarpa/products/p_71028-200

Zgemba said...

Good stuff as always Dane. Any idea what is the boot next to the Rebel Ultra in the second photo? Looks like Rebel Carbon, but with front welt for step-in crampons?

Dane said...

Nice catch Zgamba! I had missed that. It is the Rebel Carbon with a new clip on crampon toe. Nice! I added another photo to give some detail. Just dbl click them to enlarge. Pretty exciting actually as I really like the Rebel Carbon. Only the crampon attachment I found lacking. Fixed now. Pointing that out was much appreciiated!

Anonymous said...

No 2nd slider on zipper of that Westcomb jacket... Not for me :-( Moreover, cannot be qualified as belay jacked IME.

Dane said...

No 2nd slider on many/most of the jackets these days getting used as belay jackets.

My most used belay jackets are 100g weight. Your use of a belay jacket and what you find useful is up to you and your environment.

I was very impressed obviously with the materials and fabrics used in that Westcomb. I haven't seen one outside the show however and could easily change my mind when I do. Till them I thought the thing very innovative.

But no question it was NOT specifically designed to be a belay jacket. My thought was it might well make a good one anyway.

Anonymous said...

Take a closer look at the crampons this guy uses http://vimeo.com/62990189

Matej