Sledge sunglesses by Tifosi?

    -click on the photos to get a full size version-

My environment has changed a good bit in the last couple of years.     I live in an area now that gets 210+ days a year of sun and 82 days of precipitation.   It is a desert.    Beautiful as it is here the barren land and glare here are both rough on the eyes.

We moved here from a environment of 205 sunny days  and some kind of precipitation, on average, 173+ days per year.   Needless to say there was a lot of green :)

With a enough green in the environment light colored glasses are usable even with blue eyes that are more prone to bright light damage.

If you have read through CT it is likely obvious I own and use lot of different sun glasses.   Skiing, climbing, on a horse or bike, or just in the field,  I literally don't leave the house without a pair of high quality sun glasses on or stashed on my person.  

I rate my own glasses two ways.  Sun protection and eye protection.   On a tight single track or a fast road bike decent I want eye protection.   On a horse here in the desert I want eye protection from the blowing sand and dirt.   Shooting?  Eye protection is mandatory as a safety concern.

Enter Tifoi's newest sunglass, the "Sledge".    Or maybe better described as a "google"?   In the last few years any number of sunglass companies have enlarged their lens to almost the size of a small pair of ski goggles.    The Sledge is one of them  and it was designed ground up specifically for cycling.   And they work extremely well there.  Great protection and most importantly great vision with the super large lens.  There are no blind spots with the Sledge on a bike.  If you have ever been hunched over for hours on aero bars looking through the frames (not the lens) of a poorly designed sun glass frame you know the pain.   That is not a Sledge problem.   Ever done that quick lane change and snapped your head left for a second to check oncoming and not have a clear view of what's coming because of a bad frame/lens design?!

I wanted the Sledge in the darkest lens they had available.  Which is a mirrored gray.  And it is dark (3).  Good enough for the bright summer days here.   But it was the clear and intermediate lens that got my attention for every day use in less harsh conditions.

I have a couple pair of clear lens glasses that I use as safety glass for shooting or crashing through the brush.   If I am weed wacking or mowing the lawn  I use a sun glass of some sort as a "safety glass".    But typically none of them offer the eye coverage and protection of the Sledge.  

The lens come as filter rated clear is a 0, the intermediate lens is a 2 and the gray mirrored version a 3.  All tucked into a handy carrying case.

The last time I had an eye injury was from a shard of ice while climbing.   It actually cut my cornea from a pick placement mid lead .  From then on I have generally climb with a visor attached to my helmet.  A eye injury in the middle of a week long climbing trip was not something I want to ever repeat.   Ice climbing is  a place the typical sun glass might be too dark or too light or simply not offer enough protection all the while guaranteed to fog up on you.   I like having multiple len shades to choose from and good venting.

The Sledge has great venting.  I've had no fogging even when just working while stationary wearing  them during 80F temps and 70% humidity and sweating badly.    On a bike...I don't think you'd ever have a problem.  Ice climbing?   I still need to check out.

The company spiel?

Grilamid TR 90 frames.   My Dynafit ski boots are made of some sort of Grilamid.  I have yet to break any of them.  Not without trying!   :)

Polycarbonate lens...tough stuff.  Ballistics tough.
100% UVA and UV protection
Hydrophilic rubber on the frames that gets stickier as you sweat
Lens are coated to reduce eye strain

[b]and a lifetime guarantee against defects[/b]

Sold in four colors, you’ll have the choice of Crystal Orange with a Clarion Blue lens, Crystal Red with a Clarion Yellow lens, Matte Black with a Smoke lens, or Matte White with a Smoke lens – all of which are shatter proof and provide 100% UV protection.

May be the best thing about the Tifosi Sledge from my point of view is the price....$80. MSRP     I am way over what most are asking as the going rate for a decent pair of sunglasses these days @ $200+.  The Sledge is my first pair of Tifosi.   I am impressed.  They won't be my last pair of the brand.

Rethinking tech Bindings?

The most difficult lines I have skied have all been in lwt "race level" Tech bindings.    The story linked below isn't the first time I have heard of a major failure on a tech binding toe while in use.    

Y'all be careful out there!

"How a Close Call in La Grave Changed My Thoughts About Bindings" 

Gear failure is part of the risk we accept as skiers—so how do we stay safe?

https://www.powder.com/gear-locker/how-a-close-call-in-la-grave-changed-my-thoughts-about-bindings/

The top three Arcteryx Cold Weather Synthetic jackets?

The top 3 Arcteryx cold weather jackets?

• I'm well into the process of wearing them out                 
• Fit: True to size
• Size Bought: large in the Kappa and SV, XL in the SL (all seem to have a similar  fit in those sizes)                   

Unusual review for me.

I was looking for the warmest jacket I could find with literally some of the best cold weather climbing jackets hanging in my gear room now. That included both the Arcteryx Kappa and a Fission SL. The list got one more this winter with the Fission SV. I ordered up new versions of each from BC. Tried them all on and kept the SV. The others went back...nothing new there from what I already had.

A life style new to me, but for the last 6 months I've been getting up just prior to dawn, rain, shine or snow to feed livestock for the last 6 months. One of the coldest winters on record here.   Going on 60 days at or below freezing now.  The Kappa, a trusted friend for winter climbing in the Alps and Canada wasn't warm enough most days early and late. The Fission SL, the "go to" hard core winter climbing coat, wasn't up to the task when the wind started blowing @ -25F any time of day. Mind you both of those Arcteryx jackets are really good cold weather pieces! But this is an honest comparison made by wearing all three day after day of multiple sub zero weeks this winter. The SV is slightly longer, sheds wind much better than the other two and because of both the length and wind resistance, it is noticeably warmer. The double chest pockets are handier if required. I now know why you see this jacket on a lot of full time ski instructors in the Rocky Mtn States. Not seen a warmer jacket that can take a real beating (day in and day out on the ski hill or in the barn) and still do the job just as well at the end of the Season as the beginning. If you really need a cold weather jacket the SV is worth the extra price compared to the Kappa for warmth IMO.  Kappa is a taped Goretex product but not warrantied to be water "proof".   Although feature to feature IMO the Kappa is a better buy if it is warm enough for you.  And if you don't need fully taped and water proof Goretex.  Never needed Goretex frankly other than rain gear but have found the water proof layer really nice when it has been needed here.   Goretex was not something I bought the SV for however.  And would now just for the extra protection.    The Fission SL (fully water proof  Goretex as well) is a great climbing jacket for warmth and weight. But I find it hard to justify the price when compared to the other two. For a climbing parka and really cold dry occasions (think of missing the Tram mid winter on the Midi) my impression is you can do better for warmth and weight (short of snow cave living) by going to one of the better down jackets intended for the same use. Still not a big fan of the SV's fashion styling ( still undecided if I like the collar/hood design or not).  OK I'd will admit I wish the collar was higher".  Glad all the SV jacket has a dbl zipper because when it is not really cold, the jacket is too long and too warm.  When it is really cold and windy the length is perfect :)  The SV is now the only COLD WEATHER jacket I have hanging in our mud room getting daily use. And it is THE jacket I grab when I want to be warm and protected from the weather/elements on foot, on a horse or on a exposed 4 wheeler. Given the choices in cold weather jackets I have available that is saying a lot. It is still not the jacket I would take climbing. It is too heavy and frankly not cut for climbing. Kappa and SL are both lighter and cut to easily climb technical ground in. But the Fission SV is the one jacket I wish I had when I really need a warm jacket. Simply because it is the warmest most weather resistant synthetic insulation I own.

I like the snap on the hem and zipper of all three jackets.  Not a fan of the big toothed zipper used although it does work well but hard to get started sometimes.  I have to take my time and be careful.  Never a good situation when it required for a piece of my climbing kit.  Cuffs are dialed!   But also could be done better with just elastic like the Atom Series.    Hoods as expected, are exceptional with or without a helmet.  External pockets?  Not so much thought there was my opinion.  They work..enough said.  Dbls always better than one for me.  Internal pockets on all of them are awesome!   All three are solid cold weather jackets.  Kappa is the lightest least bulky, easiest to wear.  The Fission SL is warmer, slightly bulkier, more wind proof "perhaps" and costs amore than dbl what you can buy a Kappa for.  But it is water proof :)  The Fission SV is longer, more weather proof and WARMER than either.  It has a funky hood and collar design.  Both are good, neither is perfect.   SV does have double breast pockets....which I really like.   Cost is more than a Kappa, and less than the SL.   Best to find any of them on sale in late Spring or early Summer!

Height: 6'1"

Weight: 197lbs

Reel Rock #11

I was lucky enough recently to preview all of the RR #11 Tour.  Some amazing climbing and even more amazing people profiled.  Well worth a look see,  A little digging on the Internet will give you  a number of options for viewing.   From a guy who use to really look forward to the Warren Miller ski films Real Rock Productions have taken over a good part of that yearly stoke.

Hard not to be inspired by the footage and the climbers involved no mater what part of the climbing world you are involved in.

Petzl's new tools?!

It only took one bad experience for me to want a ski specific axe.  Dropping into a gully late in the afternoon and then running into hard ice after the surface slide off  frankly scared me.  Watching everyone pull out their single aluminum tool while either on skis or a snow board as I began setting screws was a little more hair ball than I really appreciated.  Wouldn't have taken much on anyone's part that afternoon to really fook things up beyond repair. 

Later that week I went to Snells and bought two Sum'tec's   One for me and one for my long time ski partner.  I really, really like the tool.  Hammer is great for setting pro.  Pick and weight is good in hard ice conditions.  The same kind of ice that scares me as a skier.

A pair of them actually make a decent pair of alpine ice tools.  But using them sure made me want a pair of chopped  up and a little less technical Nomics even more.  Easy design transition if you have any imagination.   Take a chop saw to a Quark would do the trick as well.  Thankfully Petzl and Ueli Steck saved most of us the cash and trouble of finding a chop saw..

Two new tools from Petzl this year.  The new "Sum'tec" is just a toned down Nomic.  The lwt skimo axe, The Gully,  handy and lwt if you aren't a chuckle head like me and get yourself into trouble on occasion. 

The new Petzl tools should be available by Late July '17.

Ueli Steck's previous PROTOTYPE lwt technical tool below.  And still the version I would REALLY like to own.

The new Sum'tec: 480g or less in a 55cm in length.

The "Gully"... 280g, 45cm.

Steck ,  Kilian and a few others  have been playing with the proto-types
of both tools for awhile now. A pair of them weighs about the same  as one Quark.

"My big day is always tomorrow"

Colin Haley on gear

"Second, anyone who tells you that gear doesn’t matter is clueless (at least in alpine climbing). I’m 100% certain that Rob and I were carrying less total mass of material than any other roped ascent of the route. My ice axes, crampons and helmet are all significantly lighter than they were just three years ago, and massively lighter than the ice axes, crampons and helmets that Steve and Rolo had in 2001. My helmet is the lightest one on the market. My ice axes are Petzl prototypes which are noticeably lighter than Quarks, which are already some of the lightest technical ice axes on the market. My crampons are steel in front and aluminum in back, and connected by dyneema cord. We cut the leg loops off of our harnesses. Our cams were the new BD ultralights. Our ice screws were the aluminum Petzl Laser Speed Lights. Our carabiners and slings were certainly way lighter than the lightest ones available in 2001. We climbed on a single 7.7mm rope, and didn’t bring a second one. I wore single boots on both ascents – the La Sportiva Batura, of which the current version is significantly lighter than the first version that came out in 2007. Yeah, we brought sleeping bags, they weighed 700g each. Yeah, we brought foam pads, but have you seen how light the NeoAir pads are? We had a Jetboil Sol, which is much lighter than the original Jetboil, which already was much lighter than whatever stove Steve and Rolo had in 2001 (probably a white gas stove)."


It is a good read:

http://www.colinhaley.com/infinite-spur-laps/

DRU mixed with a Petzl ad

Petzl rumors.....new tool?!

So what version of the Ueli Steck lwt axe will we see at OR this winter?

I'm betting on the Sum-Tec/Nomic combo versions in the picture just below that he has been using for a while now.  But you never know....he has so many as the 2nd picture shows.

Lots of shots on video here of what I'd guess we'll see at OR.

http://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/82-summits-in-62-days-ueli-steck-tests-his-endurance-in-the-alps-part-1-%7C-presented-by-goal-zero/603993



More here from a previous comment.. in 2013.  Be fun to see what Petzl decided they could produce.

https://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2013/11/stecks-custom-ice-tool-super-nice-super.html



YEA!  They did it!   Took awhile but Petzl showed both a lwt skimo axe and a new lwt "Nomic" as the revamped "Sum'tec" @ OR in SCL 2017.   Makes sense because the new Sum'tec  was so easy to make up with parts they already had on hand at Petzl.

Carhartt Crowley Hoody VS the Arcteryx Gamma MX Hoody.......seriously?

Let's be honest here.  If I can with a straight face make any comparison to a $119 insulated soft shell,  and a $350 insulated soft shell things are really messed up some where in the outdoor industry food chain.  (prices quoted are typical msrp retail pricing)  If you are just into labels...and not performance you can stop reading here :).

Lets start with what I still consider the gold standard of insulated soft shells, the Arcteryx Gamma MX @ $350 US $ currently.

From the Arctery web site:

"Breathable, wind-resistant, lightly insulated hooded jacket constructed with Fortius 2.0 textile for increased comfort and mobility. Gamma Series: Softshell outerwear with stretch | MX: Mixed Weather."

"This wind-resistant, breathable hoody is perfect for alpine specialists looking for enhanced mobility. A tough, highly wind-resistant outer face sheds moisture and a light fleece backer adds warmth while wicking away moisture.

Helmet Compatible Stormhood™

Helmet Compatible Stormhood™ The Arc'teryx helmet compatible Stormhood™ is designed to provide the ultimate protection in cold or wet weather. The laminated brim and hood adjusters secure tightly and deliver full coverage without restricting movement or visibility.

Key Advantages

• Laminated brim
• Adjustable hood cinch cords
• Tall collar for full coverage"

Honestly the last time I can remember using a insulated soft shell (Gamma MX) for climb was March of 2009 on Curtain Call with Jack.  It was cold outside, little wind and the ice wet.  The Gamma MX was a perfect choice in jackets for the day.  Jack was wearing a Mammut version of a similar fabric and pattern.  Cutting edge and good gear for 7 years ago,.

Jack's Mammut

My original Canadian made Gamma MX

Mind you I still use a lot of "soft shells" just nothing like the Gamma MX that is insulated for my own climbing climbing.   I do how ever use a number of lwt insulated garments as "climbing sweaters".  The entire Arcteryx Atom lineup has been good.  The choice in Arcteryx Atom garments depending on temps.  Or the RAB Xenon are some all time favorites for cold weather winter climbing.  I really like the Pertex shell RAB uses.  But stretchable shells that offer good durability,  water resistance and weather protection from Westcomb, Arcteryx and Patagonia are my likely choices these days for climbing or skiing over a insulation with rare exceptions.

So back to the Gamma MX.  My first MX cost me the then seemingly outrageous price of $300 back in 2003 iirc.   So up front the garments last.  This one was passed on to a buddy working on a ranch.  He used it as his every day jacket rain or shine till seams started exploding.  It then went back to Arcteryx for repair and he is still using it today.

The reason I don't use insulated soft shells for climbing now?  They are certainly warm and wind resistant but I've not found one that breaths well enough to climb in.  The criticism continues even with  the newest Gamma MX. 

The fit of the Arcteyx version is excellent for me.  High marks there for detailing, pattern, fit and finish.  Just as I should be in a $350 dollar outdoor jacket.  The Gamma MX is no longer made in Canada and the fabric not as heavy/warm/windproof as the originals but still a good weight IMO and very stretchy.   Decent wet weather protection for a while anyway and they dry quickly when wet.   No question this thing is durable.  Most will give I away or recycle it on Ebay long before they wear one out.  High praise there.

My take on the Gamma MX today?  Not warm enough to ski in alone mid winter.  Not warm enough for most cold weather outdoor actively unless you are moving quickly.  If you are working hard the Gamma MX doesn't breath well enough to justify the weight or durability.  The Atom LT is a better option for me while climbing.  It breaths much better than a Gamma MX.    They are a straight across trade for me in similar weather conditions.  The Atom LT is lighter and breaths better.  The Gamma MX is more as in, way, way more durable in use.

Some folks love climbing in an insulated soft shell.   There are some great ones out there.  The Neoshell versions really impressed me and still do for over all weather protection.  And nothing wrong with the Gamma MX.  As I said earlier I still think it is the gold standard of the category.  Neoshell is the only thing I have seen that enhances a good insulated soft shell. 

So how does the Carthartt Crowley jacket figure into the technical soft shell mix?
It reminds me at least in feel, warmth and weight of the very best of the Neoshell versions of insulated soft shell.

But first two important numbers....a Gamma MX, size  XL and comparable with a slightly roomier fit, the Carhartt Crowley in Large.

Gamma MX Hoody is 1# 13oz. and $350.
Crowley Hoody is 2# 3oz and $120.

The weight difference is noticeable.  So is the durability and wind protection advantage going to the Crowley on both points.   Think of the MX as a bespoke sport coat for a Fall or Spring night on the town.  The Crowley as a nice fitting leather motorcycle jacket for protection on your sport bike.

The Crowley I might delegate as a full time mid winter ski jacket with a slick insulated layer under it.  The MX makes a good piece of kit on the hill if you are moving or the temps mild.

You might wonder why I am so interested in a insulated soft shell now.  For the last few months I have gotten up just prior to dawn and put on what ever I thought would keep me warn in the coldest part of the day as I walk a few hundred yards to a barn to move/feed 100#  hay bales around outdoors, no matter the weather, clear, rain or  now snow prior to sunrise.  Interesting to me what I have learned from the experience that applies to my other outdoor  interests and may be yours.  Wrestling with 100+ lbs of dead weight that is hard to get a handle on first thing in the morning is like having to lead a hard pitch first thing after a bad bivy.  Rather unpleasant.   What have I learned?   I really want warm feet walking through thigh high wet grass.  I want a decent hood on the jacket (wind). And the least amount of clothes to keep me warm and no bind while working.  Pretty much what I want on that hard mixed pitch after a bad bivy.   Jacket has to be TOUGH and abrasive resistant to survive even a week around the horses and barn.  If the jacket collects hay on sticky fabric (inside or out) it won't be comfortable for long.   From my memory snow seems to stick in a similar fashion.  Insulated soft shells are the perfect barn coat or at least could be.  Price has been a big deterrent for me in such an abusive environment.  The best materials are water proof (Neoshell).  All the best soft shells in this category are pretty abrasive resistant.  The high quality insulated versions might well be warm enough 99% of the time in the "barn" environment even mid winter.

I was so convinced that the Gamma MX was the answer to the "barn coat" that I went to Ebay and bought one "new with tags".   Then before it could arrive I found the Carhartt Crowley version in the local Carhartt store and bought that as well.  Hard  to resist the low buy in $ amount truthfully.   The Ebay price on the Gamma MX and the retail price on the Carhartt added together got me into both jackets for a good bit less than full retail on a Gamma MX.  If nothing else it was a nice score I figured.

Two weeks later I am more impressed with the Carhartt than ever.  Enough so to add a rare new gear review here :)

Carhartt Hood?  Works with a climbing helmet no problem.  Big enough and decent vision.  Hood has a simple draw string system and a good chin protector on the high zip front with a pull tag.  All the pocket zippers also have the same nice pull tags.

Cuffs?  Tapered cuff Velcro closure.
Pockets?  One zippered chest on the outside, two zippered hand pockets on the sides.  Pockets are deep unlikely you'll loose much from them even with the zipper down.  One Velcro tabbed drop pocket internally and two that are not sealed that are unintentional pockets....that work good for something like sun glasses or a light glove/hat.   All the pockets are a light woven fabric lined to enhance breathability and lower bulk is my take on it.  The plan seems to work.
Nice gusset around the hemline.  Draw string there as well.

Bottom line here?  Even for twice the price the Crowley is a damn nice jacket.  At $120 it is a steal.  Equally at home on lift served skiing or a cold mixed route that requires some chimney stuffing.  Likely more than one Harley rider will wear it on his bike.  Basic black for color has some appeal.    Nice jacket to haul on your next plane flight to where ever, just to maintain the image.  And it is comfy.  Good enough for a dinner date, beer and a movie  And it makes a decent barn jacket that I won't ever worry about trashing.  It is a insulated soft shell jacket I would actually take on quick shots of alpine mixed climbing.  That is HIGH praise from me.

This jacket was a really fun find.  I've put some decent mileage on it doing everything BUT outdoor pursuits unless you consider riding a horse something exciting.  For the most part I just find it a quick way to get really dirty.  So far all that has spit shined up with just a wet wash cloth on the Carhartt Crowley.  Be curious to see to it looks this time next year.  Don't imagine there will be any surprises the way Carhartt builds clothing.

Best $120 I have spent in a long time.  The new Gamma MX I ordered?  It is here,  still got the hang tags on it.   Still one hell of a jacket even at $350.  I'll be saving it for spring skiing :) 

 

April again...

This series is also good...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5grOpFL7Mys

April on the Eiger

Art!

A Strong Voice that is missed....

Vimeo had a better video but Real Rock had it deleted....
This one is along the same theme.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jeIVZG3SqLU

Nice interview on the new book "The BOND"

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5emO9RyI8ysZFF1WW82SnROeXM/view

Food!

Unbroken Ground from Patagonia on Vimeo.

A bit of steep skiing..Spring in Chamonix!

Huntington, Denali and the "Bond"

"Simon McCartney was a cocky young British alpinist climbing many of the hardest routes in the Alps during the late seventies, but it was a chance meeting in Chamonix in 1977 with Californian ‘Stonemaster’ Jack Roberts that would dramatically change both their lives – and almost end Simon’s.

Inspired by a Bradford Washburn photograph published in Mountain magazine, their first objective was the 5,500-foot north face of Mount Huntington, one of the most dangerous walls in the Alaska Range. The result was a route so hard and serious that for decades nobody believed they had climbed it – it is still unrepeated to this day. Then, raising the bar even higher, they made the first ascent of the south-west face of Denali, a climb that would prove almost fatal for Simon, and one which would break the bond between him and climbing, separating the two young climbers for over three decades. But the bond between Simon and Jack couldn’t remain dormant forever. A lifetime later, a chance reconnection with Jack gave Simon the chance to bury the ghosts of what happened high on Denali, when he had faced almost certain death.

The Bond is Simon McCartney’s story of these legendary climbs."

The new book is now available here:

http://v-publishing.co.uk/books/categories/biographies/the-bond.html

and there is more to the story :)

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2013/03/wheres-waldo.html

Mark Twight puts Huntington's "Timeless Face" into context and closes one chapter to hopefully only open another on Huntington.

"In the early-80s I discovered Mountain Magazine and the north face of Mount Huntington. I thought the protagonists to be the baddest of the bad-asses. This was about the time the WPODs (Newsom was a part of the WPOD) were active in AK. Those guys scared the shit out of me and I put Roberts in the same category. For a long time I took the ascent at face value and inspiration from it because my own experience taught what may be  one when extraordinary conditions and will prevail. But some of Jack's actions off the mountain made the rumors of doubt easier to believe and I did. Reading Newsom's words was a relief because they meant a climb that inspired me for many years was real, and likely the single ballsiest undertaking in the history of North American climbing."

A new film...

Brave New Wild from Oakley Anderson-Moore on Vimeo.

How far in fruit boots?

IIRC it was the winter of  2006-7 (?), that I remember John Freeman telling me he had soloed Polar Circus wearing fruit boots and using Nomics.   Nomic's were may be a year old at the time. Common now anywhere there is ice,  but at the  time Nomic's alone were pretty radical ice tools.   Fruit boots?  Sweet but usually pretty dang cold.  Warm day on Polar Circus?  It all seemed to make  "some sense".  When John was telling me the story it had been a while since I had been on steep ice and either way I was impressed with the choice of gear and the climb. 

This John Freeman:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TQByrChFhZQ

I like the films linked below and Ueli's choice in gear.  Which likely has some to do with his head as well.....but not much :)

Now we see Nomics on anything from Alpine ice to steep water ice or really hard M climbing.  Fruit boots?  Some of the best mountain boots are now better/lighter/warmer than most of the original fruit boots.  Telling for me that the Nomic is still "state of the art".

If that doesn't get you stoked try this......

Some nice visuals!