The La Sportiva Spantik
They are tough, durable enough and not too heavy. The laces, lace eyelets and inner boots could be better. It would be a much better boot by most accounts if delivered with the Baruntse's Palau inner boot.
La Sportiva Spantik 3#.05oz / 1362g
La Sportiva Spantik with a Baruntse liner 2# 12oz / 1247g
La Sportiva Baruntse 3#4oz / 1470g
Scarpa Phantom 6000 new 2010 model 2#10oz / 1190g
La Sportiva Olympus Mons 3#6oz/ 1530g
French Mtn Police uniform boot?
photo courtesy of Courtney Ley
The newest mtn bike shoe?
The Spantik is the one double boot that seems to dominate the cold weather climbing world right now below 6000m. Only the Scarpa 6000 has made much of an impact on that good fortune.
57g is about 2 oz
172g about 6 oz
The difference in climbing in a lighter boot? The extra ankle and calf support is a noticable on the Spantik. The warmth? Only the Oly Mons stands out here in warmth. All of these boots are plenty warm for any where under 6000m in winter.
More on the Spantik here:
Any chance you could post a picture of the Baruntse liner? I've never seen one and would be interested to be able to see the differences between the Bauntse and Spantik liners. Are they the exact same liners that Palau sells on their web site?
Kai, in the cold thistle link at the bottom of this article are several pictures comparing the two inner boots. That specific liner is only sold by La Sportiva.
Question for you about crampon fit/Boot selection, I have a pair of the Petzl Lynx's and I'm doing most of my climbing in the Colorado Rockies, I've been using the plastic toe piece for the Lynx's on a pair of Sportiva Trango Guides for some easy ice climbing. My question is twofold, is there any downside to not using a toe bail, and if there is, are the Petzl and BD toe bails interchangeable because I have been having fit issues on my Koflachs and from what I have read on your blog the new Petzl toe bails have some fit issues and I know BD sells replacement toe bails. Also, I'm considering buying a double boot for cold weather for climbing since my Koflachs have too much slop for any technical climbing, would you recommend the Phantom 6000's or the Phantom Guide's?
the biggest problem with the spantik? They don't make them big enough stopping at 47, whereas the Baruntse (and the Batura just) fits even bigfoots like me!
I just got back from The Disapointment Cleaver on Rainier and saw Dave Hahn and quite a few other guides wearing the Baruntse, but didn't notice any Spantiks. It was well below freezing till the sun came up and my toes were verging on numb in my trango ice evos. Definitely would have been hot as hell in the Baruntse for 75% of my time up there but if things had gone wrong I would have been in trouble. Thanks for all the great info on your blog, enjoy reading it.
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