Light is Always Right..... Part duex

GCC, Mount Kitchener, photo by Ken Weeks


"And so it goes on, the ceaseless evaluation of weight against eventuality; the number of krabs and pegs estimated in accordance with the difficulty of the climb and then whittled down to a manageable load."

Joe Tasker, MOUNTAIN LIFE, 1975

In alpine climbing nothing really changes.  With the exception of global warming the mountains don't change a lot in a man's life time.  And even then alpine climbing has always been about "conditions".  As the mountains have warmed we have just changed the seasons we climb in.    Good conditions generally makes any alpine climb a romp.  Bad conditions can make them into a slug fest, death march.

We as climbers haven't changed physically.  Even the best professionals of today are going to be hard pressed to ride a bicycle half way across the country and then climb any of the European Classic North faces with modern gear instead of the gear they relied on in the '30s.  That kind of fitness and mental sobriety few still own today.  Think not? OK, put everything you need including your climbing food, in a ruck, hop on your one speed bike and pedal it partway across, Italy, France or Germany (take your pick) all while wearing the same clothing you are going to be climbing in. Then WALK into the route and spend a couple of days out.  When you finally get down, you grab you bike and peddle home.  Get the idea?  Tough!

Kinda like this amazing modern trip of Maxine Turgeon's...just different :)

http://www.sportiva.com/live/page.php?id=26&at=24

Paul Diffley's wonderful film, PINNACLE if nothing else showed the fitness required of Smith and Marshal  for just one week in the Ben in 1960.  MacLeod and Turner were hard pressed to keep up that pace.

So what has changed? From a myopic perspective two things, gear and attitude.   Attitude came first.  New gear enabled the attitude to infiltrate the masses.

Once the "race" began in alpine climbing, gear became less important than the mental attitude of the climber.
Pared down to crampon's and a a pair of  curved ice tools,  the LIGHT IS RIGHT ethic literally sped to the forefront.

Messner's solo  on le Droites 1969 (8hr30min) and again with Habeler on the Eiger  in 1974 as a "traditional" team (10hr) , come to mind.

Messner's climb of le Droites in 8.5hr on a route that is longer and harder than le Ginat should make one step back and rethink what light and hard climbing is.   The Eiger's current team record was 6:50,  then 6:10 set in 2008.  Le Droites?  2:08 on the Ginat, which doesn't even go to the summit as Messner did via a new route.


Below, Ueli Steck on le Ginat.

http://www.alpineexposures.com/blogs/chamonix-conditions/1457202-ueli-steck-speed-solo-of-the-ginat-on-the-droites

Photo courtesy of Colin Haley, here on the lower ice field, during a quick ascent of  le Ginat, le Droites

Colin's blog links beloiw from two of his le Droites climbs.
http://colinhaley.blogspot.com/2009/04/les-doites-le-ginat-solo.html

http://colinhaley.blogspot.com/2010/04/back-in-chamonix.html


"Some of the best climbers in the world stopped their ascents and watched through binoculars, aghast, as Messner hacked his way up Les Droites, then regarded as the most difficult ice wall on earth. The fastest ascent until then had taken three days; three previous expeditions had met with disaster and death. "

By the late 1980s, Wild Things' packs and harnesses had attained cult status among the world's elite climbers. "When they started the company in the late '70s, Wild Things was way ahead of everybody else in pack designs, sewn slings and one-piece suits," explains American Alpinist Mark Richey. "These are things we all take for granted nowadays, but John and Titoune developed the designs for climbers and brought the ideas to market. I suspect that from 1982 through 1987, nearly every big climb was done with Wild Things' gear."

There were two climbs in particular that Bouchard put his (and Titoune's)  "light is right" philosophy to the ultimate test.  The South Face of Aconcaqua  in 1983 (with Titoune) and again on the East Ridge of Shivling in 1996 (with Mark Richey).  

As important as the ascents of Messner and  Bouchard were in the Alps, and later, on bigger peaks it wasn't their climbing that influenced several generations of alpinists to follow that path.  It was their writings on the idea of "light is right".  Mark Twight started climbing in 1980.  He later worked for John Bouchard at Wild Things and has his own legacy in the Alps and Alaska.  Twight was able to push the "light is right Koolaid" to another generation and may be even more so by one piece of his writing,  "EXTREME ALPINISM: Climbing Light, Fast, and High" .

I am continually amazed at the detail that Mark addressed in his book.  I reread parts of it on occasion.  Often times to just get a refresher on some idea or project I am bouncing around in my head.  I think in retrospect it is the most influential text on alpine climbing ever written.  You may love Twight or hate him or lay some where in between but no question his "EXTREME ALPINISM" has and will continue to influence alpine climbing for a long, long time to come.   A good thing, I think. 

I've heard several aspiring alpinists tell me much of Twight's info is dated.  And I would agree on some small details, like glove choices and tool leashes.  But clothing systems, sports nutrition and tools will change over time, the basic philosophy of climbing light, hasn't.  Twight had (has) the majority of that process down pat as did his mentor Bouchard.

So if you think Twight is out dated.....and for what ever you think this is worth.   I reread Twight's book quite often for new ideas and ways to solve my own problems on difficult climbs I want to do in a light weight manner.   Pimping "EXTREME ALPINISM" isn't just lip service.  I use the resource.

Will Gadd's book, ICE & MIXED CLIMBING is another good reference piece for similar projects.

"Messner was able to move so quickly because he climbed alone, alpine-style—meaning he took only a rucksack. "

There is something magical about climbing steep terrain with nothing but a rope, a rack and the (small) pack on your back .    Yvon Chouinard simply paraphrased the great German alpinist,  Willo Welzenbach in the late '60s,  and finally published in 1978,  "carry light packs. leave the ten essentials behind and remember, if you take bivouac gear equipment along, you will bivouac."

What is left out in that converstaion to put it into context?  You had then better be prepared to climb well into the night and the next morning if neccessary.   Failure can be painful and lasting.  Climbing just became a athletic endurance event and the risks higher..   It pays to know the game and the rules you will be playing by.

Even mountains like Denali become a lot more friendly and fun when you climb (well acclimatised)  from 11,000 to the summit and back in a long day.    Light is right could just as easily be described as "long days"!

Photos courtesy of Colin Haley, Bjørn-Eivind Årtun soloing the Cassin.

Several hrs later and a good many meters higher on the Cassin...it should be obvious what was in Bjørn-Eivind's pack.

http://colinhaley.blogspot.com/2010_06_01_archive.html

"Big" climbing packs for long, difficult, alpine routes will generally weight under 25# now.  Your entire clothing kit,  another 10# past that.   The smart guys carry and climb in less.  Generally a lot less.  The now classic test piece on the North Buttress of Mt Hunter is being done with light days sacks on two and three days climbs to the summit and down.  The Eiger is done in two days or less now, mid winter.  The Ginat on le Droites or  the MacIntyre/Colton on the Grand Jorasses both commonly done now in a day, and  again in winter.

"Climbing light" is as much more about the climber's personal desire to climb fast and push their own physical limits, than it is about using light weight gear. 

The easiest way to get "light weight" is simply take LESS gear.  Which might in turn push the envelope on your own skills and experience.

But where do you start?  How do you cut weight besides the obvious, exercise and a healthy diet? Go long with less.  Double the length of your next trail run and take nothing more. Or soloing on easy to moderate terrain are both good places to start a "light is right" training program.   Get in where you are comfortable and then push yourself until you are uncomforatable.  It is easier that you might first imagine to find your own limits on what is too light and what is right for you at the moment.

The fast track on gear?  Take a look at the weights for some of your own kit.   Might be well worth taking a serious look at (and weighing) what you are using for gear and clothing.  If you don't actually know what each item weights how do you know what is the lightest?      My list is a year old and I am continually surprized by the results of even the most obvious comparisons.


Packs:
Cold Cold World 35l custom climbing sack, Spectra rip stop, 1#9oz 709g
REI Flash 18l 9.2oz / 261g
Arcteryx Khazri 35l 2#13oz / 1275g

Boots (size 45)

La Sportiva Spantik 3#.05oz / 1362g
La Sportiva Spantik with a Baruntse liner 2# 12oz / 1247g
La Sportiva Baruntse 3#2.5oz / 1503g
La Sportiva Batura 1st gen. 2#7oz / 1106g
La Sportiva Nepal Evo 2#10.5oz / 1205g
La Sportiva Trango Evo Extreme GTX 2#3oz (35oz) / 992g
Scarpa Phantom Ultra new 2010 model 2#3.5oz (35.5oz) / 1006g
Scarpa Phantom Guide new 2010 model 2#7.5oz / 1120g
Scarpa Phantom 6000 new 2010 model 2#10oz (a full dbl boot with intergal
gaiter) / 1190g

Ice tools

Original Petzl Quark hammer 1# 8oz / 682g
Petzl Nomic with mixed pick/weight 1# 6.8oz / 648g
Black Diamond Cobra or 1 lb 5 oz (mini hammer) / 600g
Black Diamond Viper or 1 lb 6 oz (hammer) / 625g
2nd gen Black Diamond Fusion (green) 1#9oz / 680g
Chouinard 55cm bamboo 770g
Chouinard alpine hammer 533g
Terrodactyl hammer 790g

Carabiners (times 20 or 30!)

Black Diamond solid D 50g
Black Diamond wire gate D 46g
Wild Country wire gate D 40g
Trango lwt wire 28g
Black Diamond Oz 28g

Cams:

Metolius Master cam 2.5" 110g
Original Wild Country Friend #2.5 130g
Original Wild Country Frend #3 142g
Wild Country Tech Friend #3 152g

Ice screws

12cm Grivel Helix 5.1oz / 144g
13cm Black Diamond (newest) Express 4.8oz / 136g
16cm Grivel Helix 5.8 oz / 166g
16cm Black Diamond Express 5.1oz / 144g
19cm Black Diamond 5.6oz / 159g

Belay jackets

Wild Things, Belay Jacket, 34oz pre 2010 / 963g
Eddie Bauer XV 38.5oz / 1091g
MEC Tango, 31.7oz / 898g
Patagonia DAS (new) 36.9oz / 1046g
Arcteryx Duelly 28oz / 794g
Narrona Lyngen 26oz / 737g
Narron Trollveggen 37.5oz / 1063g
Arcteryx Atom Hoody SV 19.0 oz / 538g
Mountain Hardwear Compressor Hoody 19.8oz / 561g
Mammut Ambler 47.2oz / 1338g


Lightly insulated jackets (belay sweaters) and shells

EB Downlight Hoodie Pullover XL 15.4 oz / 455g
EB Frontpoint XL 18.5oz / 547g
Arcteryx Atom lt Hoody large 14.4oz / 429g
Arcteryx Atom Hoody SV 19.0 oz / 562g
Mountain Hardwear Compressor Hoody 19.8oz / 586g
Arcteryx Gamma MX Hoody XL 24oz / 710g
Arcteryx Squamish pullover XL 5.6oz -166g

Pants

Paradox, mid weight longs 8oz / 227g
Arcteryx Gamma Lt large 12.4 oz / 351g
Mountain Hardwear Ridge Runner 3/4 16oz / 453g
Arcteryx Gamma MX large 19oz / 539g
NWAlpine salopettes large 21.6oz / 612g
Arcteryx Gamma MX salopettes large 30.4oz / 861g
Arcteryx GoreTex Theta Bib large 23.3oz / 660g

Helmets

Black Diamond Traser 8.5oz / 241g
Black Diamond Half Dome 12oz / 340g
Petzl Ecrin Roc 16oz / 453g
Grivel Salamander 13.7oz / 388g
Petzl Elios 12oz / 340g
Petzl Meteor III 7.9oz / 224g

Crampons per pair

Black Diamond Stinger, w/ full bot 32oz / 900g
Petzl Dartwin 1/2 bot 30.5oz / 865g
Petzl Dart no bot 28.8oz / 816g
Grivel G12 ful bot 35.6oz / 1010g
Grivel G 20 28.2 oz / 800g
Grivel G 22 w/full bot 900g
Black Diamond Stainless Sabertooth full bot 34.2oz / 969g
Black Diamond Stainless Sabertooth no bot with Petzl bail toe 28.4oz / 808g
Black Diamond Stainless Cyborg full bot 39.4oz / 1116g
Black Diamond Stainless Cyborg, mono, no bot, 28.6oz / 811g
Salewa/Chouinard hinged with straps (1980) 880g
Salewa/Chouinard clip-on rigids (1990) 920g

So how easily does it add up?  The real world weight comparisons?

I wanted to make an actual comparison of gear and see what the real world differences are on a team with very similar gear set ups and how small choices might or might not effect us.

We are suited up for a long one day of climb that is realistically rated a Grade V but generally done in a day. Although with perfect conditions I have done the climb in 5 hrs while roped to a partner and placing pro.  The flip side to that is in early January's short days, in fairly cold conditions, the climb easily lives up to the overall Grade V label.

The brothers Grimm masquerading as "Team Arcteryx LT" for this discussion.... ;-)

More here:

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/01/real-world-weight-comparisons.html

 88.8 oz or ........... 2517g  difference.

What does 5.5# or a 22517g mean to you?

Most of that weight difference is in the actual pack's weight we used (same Cold Cold World basic designs, different material, one stripped, one not ) and the decision on the amount of extra water carried. The helmets stand out as well. Interesting with that the same manufactures helmets, that the heavier hard shell helmet broke when hit by a dinner plate and the lighter, foam core one did not with a similar hit. We were out 10 hrs total and both of us brought water back to the car.  Low temps were -30C or -22 F.
 
Some times even I wonder just how important tracking you gear weights really is.

If you wonder as well take a quick look at what I used on Polar Circus in '08 and what I used on the same climb in similar conditions in '09 as I intentionally cut weight.

pack-CCW in ballistics nylon 2#6oz
boots-Nepal Evo 2#10.5oz
screws-12 -12cm Helix 60.7oz
belay parka-Mtn Hardware Compressor Hoody 19.8oz 561g
soft shell-Arcteryx Gamma MX Hoody XL 24oz 680g
pants-Arcteryx soft shell Bib large 30.3oz   858g
helmet-Grivel Salamander 13.7oz 388g
crampons-Grivel G12 full bot 35.6oz 1009g

total weight in 2008 16.5#  7484g

pack-CCW Ozone, custom, 20" back, Spectra 1#9oz no lid
boots-Trango Evo Extreme GTX 2#3oz
screws-8 -12cm Helix 40.8oz  1156g
no belay parka
hard/soft shell-EB Frontpoint XL 18.5oz  524g
pants-Gamma Lt large 12oz 349g
helmet-Petzl Meteor III 7.9oz  224g
Dartwin 1/2 bot 30.5oz 864g

Total weight in 2009 10.6#   4592g 

How does that relate to effort in the real world? In '08 we climbed the route as fast as I ever have with a partner. In '09, with more comfort and significantly less effort than I have ever used on the climb and not actually trying to climb any faster than normal we almost cut that time in half! And in very similar conditions.

It is always a learning experience. The system I'll climb in this year given the right conditions in late spring?
But now I am getting very "condition specific" with this particular level of kit.   Not a lot of leeway here if anything unforeseen happens on the climb.  One would be pretty miserable if you had to spend a night out.

pack-REI Flash 18L 9.2oz  261g  less weight
boots-Scarpa Phantom Ultra 2#3.5oz  1006 more weight
screws-8-13cm BD Express 38.4oz  1088g less
Arcteryx Squawmish XL 5.6oz  159g less
pants-Gamma Lt large 12oz 340g equal weight
helmet-Petzl Meteor III 7.9oz  224g equal
Stainess Sabertooth stripped/Neve heel 25.4oz  720g less

Total weight 8.2#  /  3685g

Finally when you are stripped totally bare someone will invariably ask..."what goes in the pack?"

Depending on how big your pack is, and how high, far and long you plan on being out any combination of the following, food, water, stove, gas, belay jacket, insulated pants, small foam pad, file, picks, extra socks or gloves.

Classic " light is right" kit for today's big alpine ice routes. Will Sim's and Jon Griffin's climbing sacs after a quick trip up the Solvanian start to the Croz Spur.

http://www.alpineexposures.com/pages/croz-spur-with-slovenian-start-video-grandes-jorasses

Part one of the thought process is here:

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/01/light-is-always-right.html

I wrote this gear article for UKC earlier in the week.  Less than  72hrs later it had 5000 reads.

Here is the UKC forum discussion:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=445899

Petzl picks?

I've been asked several times what the difference between the new Petzl ICE and DRY picks are compared to the older Nomic Astro and Cascade.

Both of the newest picks are now T rated  instead of the older style picks that were B rated.  Still  with the same 3.3mm tips on the DRY and Astro.  And 3.25 on the old Cascade with the ICE at 3.3mm.  None that I have examined are the 3mm claimed by Petzl.

More on picks and ratings here by Andy Kirkpatrick:

http://www.psychovertical.com/choosingatechnicalaxe:

"All technical tools these days sold in Europe must pass minimum CE norms. The shaft of a technical tool must pass the T (technical) test, guaranteeing a minimum strength of 350kg. This is carried out by applying a load to the shaft as if it was being used in a snow belay, which although far from practical - after all you'd be hard pressed for an axe belay to hold more the 35kg - does mean that when you're jamming the shaft into cracks and standing on it, it should be up to the job.


Of far more importance is the pick rating, which is either denoted by a 'B' or 'T' stamped on the pick. The 'permanent deformation' test does not necessarily relate to practical application either; picks are clamped in a vice, a lever of 330mm (often the shaft of the tool itself) is used to apply 42 (B) or 60 (T) Newtons of force for 60 seconds. At the end of the test period the lever must not show more than 70mm of permanent deflection from its start position.

Unfortunately, most picks that are noted for their 'high performance' are B-rated, which suggests a contradiction between the best performance and the greatest strength. The 'cyclic fatigue' test applies only to T-rated picks, which must endure 50,000 flexes at the end of a 250mm lever in order to pass. What this means to you the climber is that B probably stands for 'bent' if used for full on and intensive mixed climbing, while T stands for 'Tourquer', aimed at some serious twisting.

Of course. this doesn't mean that if you climb mixed routes then you need a T-rated pick, just as climbing ice doesn't mean you need a B-rated pick. What it tells you is what they were intended for, meaning you take more care with a B-rated pick when it comes to a full-on horizontal torque."
Andy Kirkpatrick

The big changes for Petzl are on the the tooth profile of the newest picks.  I find that they hook better and are also more difficult to clean on ice because of the first tooth change and more defined teeth.  The original Nomic Cascade and Astro picks will work fine with no changes in all three of Petzl's newest tools, Quark, Nomic or Ergo.   Still great picks.  Little change in actual strength past the new CE rating.  They were relisble and durable before and are even more so now.  I've seen bent Petz picks from the past generation.  All bent  indoors mind you.    But I have yet to see a broken one.

When we are discussiong Nomic picks, old picks fit new tools, new picks fit old tools.   Same with the new Quark and Ergo.   Old picks will fit the new tools,   New picks require a spacer...which is a major PAIN to replace in the field if you use Petzl's spacer.  Buy the old Astro or Cascade if you need to carry spares and think you'll break or bend a pick or need to replace them on a climb. I like the original Cascade pick design with the weights on pure ice. Fine a hardware store washer and fit it as required to use as a spacer before you take the tools climbing.


Cascade and Ice picks show in comparison.  The differing tooth designs do make a noticeable difference in actual use.  First tooth the most.  DBl click to enlarge the photo for details.

The Astro and Dry picks...are how ever very similar with the exception of the larger front tooth.

Update!

2/17/2011

Just when you think you can sleep soundly again something is bound to pop up.  This week it is broken Black Diamond Sabertooth crampons  Uneasy on that topic at best.   If i had more time I would look for more info on that issue.  Instead I'm taking mine out on some ice.  You'll here the bitching at home behind a closed door if I break a pair...trust me.

But back to the Petzl pick issue and why an update?

Turns out there is some clever mods going on at Petzl that are unspoken.  Can't figure out why a company would do a change and not make it public.  In this case I think it is a big change.  Besides the T rating and the extra long front tooth on the picks.  Petzl has also changed the pick angle on the Cascade not Ice ice between 2 and 3 degrees.  It is a big deal.  I noticed it climbing on them in Bozeman in early Dec.  Just figured it was a change in the teeth.  But it isn't.    BD went to less angle on the shaft of the new Fusion.  Petzl changes the pick angle so all the tools will have a deeper angle...Nomic (old or new) Quark and Fusion.

Some how I wasn't asked. 

Top is an exact over lay of the Cacade on top of a new ICE.

Ice pick in the middle and a Cascade on the bottom of the picture.

Close up in the over lay of the 2 or 3 degree increase of pick ange and extra hook.  Cascade on top ICE underneath it.

New ICE below that and a Cascade in the bottom of the pictuure.

You don't know Jack!

The NW face of M.t Kennedy, "A pair of Jacks"  Jack Roberts and Jack Tackle 1996

OK, Pete Takeda has been telling me he was going to write that line, "you don't know Jack!" for half a decade now about Jack.   I'm still waiting but no story?    So I finally stole the line..  (my apologies Pete but I'll make it up to you and your blaster some how;-)

 "So You don't know Jack!"

As in Jack Roberts. and "The Timeless Face" on Mt. Huntington or the epic new route on the SW face of Denali.

1978 North Face of Huntington, Jack Roberts and Simon McCartney, summit reached on July 6, 1978.

"Timeless Face VI 5.9 WI5, McCartney-Roberts). Simon McCartney and Jack Roberts climbed and hid from objective dangers and avalanches for five epic days to gain the summit.   Taking  five more to get down  and reach their base camp.   Pounds lighter for the experience.  It remains unrepeated as of 2010.  And apparently no known suitors in tow.  Alpinist 20 has a good write up on the history of Huntington,

Jack collected a few good second ascents early on in Yosemite including the Shield, Cosmos, Tis-sa-ack, The Zodiac and many FAs in the High Sierras.

But ice and alpine has been his real forte over the years. In Canada the second free ascent and third overall of Polar Circus, first winter ascents of Robson's North Face and Kitchener's Grand Central Couloir. In Alaska he has made four FAs in the Kichatna Spires, Huntington's NW Face, the SW face of Denali and on the NW face of Mt. Kennedy to the NW Ridge.  And a fist full of good routes in  the Alps as well.

So Jack has been around some and likely does know something of big walls, alpine and ice cliimbing.

From the La Sportiva web site.
"Do you have a claim to fame?"

"Jack sez: The reputation of the shape and condition of my toes and feet have made me infamous. Even Reinhold Messner wanted to see them! Also, I'm the only male Sportiva athlete to appear in a dress in any ad.

"What really scares you about climbing?"

It's very easy to mistake the sensation of feeling omnipresence for omnipotence and get severely hurt trying to understand the difference.

"Do you wish you had sexier feet?"

No one has sexier feet than I have. Didn't we have this discussion earlier?"

I've seen Jack's feet..and understand why Messner would ask.  Trust me..you don't want to ask.

  The Timeless Face- Huntington

The Roberts/McCartney line is pretty much a plumb line from the right hand summit knob to the rock buttress below the lowest hanger just right of center.

Jack's recently drawn topo of the line.  Be sure to dbl clik this one.

Some speculation on this climb in the community over the last 30 years.  It hasn't been repeated.  Few have tried.  From what I know,  most of the speculation came from one source. Simon McCarthney virtually disappeared after the new route on Denali and final rescue, which hasn't helped.  Does any one know Simon's where abouts today?   A party that summitted shortly after Roberts and McCartney wrote of being surprised at seeing their foot prints coming up the North Face.   More recently a set of stuck and chopped ropes suspected to be from Roberts and McCartney were found melted out, near the Nose, on the Harvard route, long buried under the snow and ice there.   I have no reason to doubt the ascent.

Jack is always in it.  Guiding full time, writing on occasion and still climbing hard.  March of 2011, underneath le Droites, N. Face, Chamonix.

http://www.jackrobertsclimbing.com/

What does Jack think are 10 winter climbing tips that are worth writing down?

TECH TIPS WINTER

10 WAYS TO SPEED UP YOUR ALPINE CLIMBING

When you are climbing in the mountains you want to be able to move swiftly and efficiently if you want to increase your margin of safety and increase your chances of success. Moving quickly though also usually increases your enjoyment as you feel yourself becoming more adept and sucked into what you are doing at the moment you are doing it. Moving fast doesn't necessarily mean climbing harder. It isn't about getting stronger or becoming more supple. Speed climbing is all about becoming a more cerebral climber and therefore the skills necessary can be learned by anyone. I have listed ten tips that I feel are important and that will help anyone become faster.



RHYTHM

Moving fast in the mountains isn't so much about sprinting from the tent like an Olympic champion but more like being a ultra-marathoner where you find your rhythm and learn how to stick to it. You have to learn and to teach your body the art of maintaining a cadence and pace that suits your body best and that allows you to always move forward hour after hour. This cannot be learned if you are always at your limit both technically and physically. You can however, learn your own personal cadence by practicing on long routes that are a grade or two below your limit and by building upon that. If your limit on single pitch traditional rock routes is 5.10, then try longer routes of up to 5.8. Concentrate on moving with intent. Placing protection. Setting up belay anchors etc. All these factors practiced on longer , less difficult routes will increase your speed and without realizing it you will find yourself being much faster and having more energy.



Move up a grade when you feel like it and practice the same things.

BE EFFICIENT

Do you really know just how long it takes you and your partner to lead and second a pitch? How long does it take for you to sort out the rack and begin the next lead? You and your partner must have a system worked out that takes the minimum of time to complete. Whether it be racking the gear as you follow, setting up the belay, stacking the rope at the belay incorporating speed and still staying safe is critical. As you climb and when you reach the belay NEVER let up on your pace. Set-up the anchors. Stack the rope, keep the rope tight for the second and pass off the gear rack swiftly and immediately. Use the Reverso or an auto-block plate for belaying, thereby allowing you to eat or drink whilst still belaying the second up. While the second is following the pitch he is racking the gear in a prearranged manner so that there is no time wasted when passing the rack between partners. The goal is to move upward at all times. Taking ten minutes at each belay for six pitches is 60 minutes time which can mean getting down in the light or by headlamp.

KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID

The only way to avoid wasting time is to eliminate the complexity of your systems. A simple way to begin this is to reduce the number of ropes you climb with. Do you really need double ropes or will a single 60 or 70m rope work. This is usually long enough to link pitches together (eliminating the belay sort-out time) and one rope is easier to stack and handle than two. If you need an additional rope for rappelling consider taking a lightweight 7mm) tagline and carry this in your pack or tied onto your back.



The rack can be simplified by reducing the number of cams and nuts to one set each. Cams go in and out faster plus the are easier to locate. Of course deciding how big the rack will be depends on the difficult nature of the climbing but in general most climbers require less protection than they place on their rack. Take more 60cm slings and fewer quickdraws. In this way you encounter less rope drag which is a must when linking pitches together. Rack onto a should sling rather than your harness gearloops. In this way the rack can be switched over from partner to partner with minimum time wasted. Use two pieces of bombproof gear for the belay anchor rather than three and tie off the pieces with your rope instead of using slings. A cord-de-lette works well but does take practice in order to not waste precious time. Have a repertoire of belay techniques you can incorporate depending on the severity of the pitch. Know how to do a shoulder and hip belay. Belay through the belay anchor using just a overlapping close hitch.

KEEP IT LIGHT

Every thing you wear or carry is weight. Even the lightest equipment adds up and will slow you down, tire you out and will contribute to not getting up your desired route unless you give paramount importance to how much each piece of gear and clothing weighs. Can you substitute your heavy oversized carabiners for smaller wire-gates that weight a few grams less. Do you really need 22cm length screws when 17cm length ones work just as well. Can you get away with a smaller and lighter belay device. Do you ALWAYS drink two or three quarts of liquid or generally do you stay dehydrated and drink less? One quart weights two pounds which is quite a lot of extra weight to carry if you don't use it. Drink it or lose it!! Do you really need that extra pair of gloves or cap?



A good way to force a light pack onto yourself is to carry only a small pack and NOT overstuff it. The old adage of "whatever size pack you have you will fill" is very true. Carry a smaller pack and you will have less weight. Think about what weight you can take away not what you can add. In today's climbing culture we have a gimmick for just about any level of comfort or purpose. Thoreau's adage of "Simplify, simplify, above all simplify" is most important here. Don't carry a piece of gear if it only has one use to it. Bubble wrap insulates, is padding and its weight is practically non-existent. Climbing clothing is fashionable clothing. Critique what you wear. Is an item going to be used as equipment or to make you look sexier in the photos? Do you really need a fork and spoon for a bivouac meal or can you do without.

KNOW YOUR PARTNER

Having a partner who is able to move at least as fast or faster than you is critical. If you are always waiting for your partner to catch up it quickly becomes tiring and demoralizing. Understanding how your partnership climbs together, communicates, moves, not only speeds things up but also makes your climb much safer and more fun. Having a clearly defined way to communicate that you both understand helps reduce misunderstanding and increase safety.

MOVE TOGETHER

The single best way to maximize the entire team moving upwards is to move together on moderate terrain. Nobody said that this technique is 100% safe yet when practiced enough by two or three partners who know each other's movements well, this technique (simul-climbing) can be safer than being belaying on ground which may be dangerously exposed to objective dangers. However, this is a technique which must be practiced ahead of time so it is learned and understood well.



Always make sure that when simul-climbing you have one or two points of protection between you. As long as the rope remains relatively taught between each climber everyone is protected. Both climbers should go at a steady pace and treat this technique as if one were soloing. This is especially important when the leader is climbing over the crux and the second is on moderate ground. Another safe option to try is using a Wild Country Ropeman or a Petzl Tiblock to improve safety when climbing.



The leader would place a Ropeman upside down on a very solid anchor and place the rope through it. Placed this way the rope would run easily through it when the leader is climbing. In this manner should the second fall then the Ropeman cam would jam against the rope and stop the fall while not putting any pressure on the leader. A Petzl Tiblock can be used in the same way but is less trustworthy. The Tiblock has teeth which can shear the sheath of a rope. A Ropeman does not have any teeth and therefore will not damage the rope.



It is important to note that when setting up the Ropeman at the anchor it be able to stop and upward AND downward fall, that it be matched to the locking gate carabiner that it is clipped into and that it locks correctly when screwed. This technique seems to work best when using a thin rope. Anywhere from an 8mm to 9.2 works best. Anything bigger and there is too much rope drag. Be sure and play around with this system on something easy so that you understand completely how it works and how to avoid any dangers that might arise.

LEAVE EARLY

Pretty much the earlier you leave for your intended ascent the better are your chances of success or survival. I've had to turn back from many summits early because I ran out of time, ran out of light, didn't get there ahead of the party in front of me etc. all these failures could have been avoided if I'd gotten out of the sack just one hour earlier. Alpine climbing is an adventure and adventures always have unexpected twists and turns. You will be better prepared for the unknown if you and your partner get an earlier than planned start to your day.

DRESS SERIOUSLY

If you want to move fast then dress lightly so that you don't become too warm and comfortable. Dressing seriously means that you wear a baselayer underneath a windproof top (pants and bottoms) and you use movement as a means to keep warm. Should you slow down enough whereby you get chilled and start to get very cold then ADD an insulating layer on top of what you are already wearing. If you really want to see how light you can go purchase a micro wind/water-resistant nylon shell from Go Lite or Patagonia along with a thin silk balaclava, liner gloves, Petzl Tika headlamp, a few GU packets into a chalk bag and wrap your lightweight insulating jacket around your waist for speed.

DRINK AND EAT

Sometimes nothing is more debilitating than becoming thirsty and experiencing low blood sugar. Hitting the wall or bonking is no fun and is easy to do because the all-absorbing attention we give to our movement over rock and ice sometimes distracts us from how dehydrated and hungry we have become. I make a rule to keep some power gel or GU handy in my outside pockets so that I can easily and quickly take a bit of 100-200 calories when I need it without slowing myself down. Done regularly a person should be able to go for hours if they snack along the way in order to keep their glucose level up. Becoming dehydrated is just as tiring as not having enough food. For this reason it is worth looking into having a pack which will hold a water bladder with a tube you can suck on. In this manner you will be able to have continuous little gulps of moisture to keep you motivated and feeling fresh. These days most bladders seem to be pretty leak-proof and the only kink to work out is how to keep them from freezing. I still haven't worked that one out yet so I usually just climb in a state of dehydration which isn't good.

TRAIN AND TRAIN SOME MORE

Lastly there is no substitute for being physically and mentally trained for your project. Climb easy rock in poor weather in mountain boots. Climb regardless of weather conditions or how hungover you may be from the excesses of the evening before.

Train, train and train some more.

© 2003-2010 Jack Roberts. All rights reserved. Site / bluetrope.


CLIMBING magazine....BITD.  The story of the first winter ascent of the GCC Direct, Mt. Kitchener,  Jack Roberts and Tobin Sorenson.  It was cold enough the colors froze to shades of gray..

Ya gotta like it...

Short, but dang, it looks hard!


Palenville Coronary from Chris Lamme on Vimeo.

Rock'in the new Petzl Ergo!

Ya just gotta love those sticks (trick sticks) on the ice.  They are good..just not that good :)


Gordon McArthur from Karman Line Productions on Vimeo.

Ice Screw length?

Flow Reversal in typical conditions, early Winter 2008.

When the original Chouinard screws came out...you know 30 plus years ago,,,most every one had the rack full of 22 and 28cm screws and maybe a Snarg or tow.  A full rack then was 8 may be even 10 screws.

Kinda shocking really just how few screws we used BITD for some fairly steep climbing.  Considering it generally took two men and a boy to place  the screws of the day in cold ice.  

I don't mind giving an opinion (ya that is obvious) of what I wear or what I think on most things but the tools or crampons that  you choose are up to you.  Same with the other gear you use.  The idea here is info, comparisons and opinions.  Choices.  The length of screws I choose generally depends on the quality of ice.   Ice quality isn't something always easily known from the ground when sorting gear.  The links below offers some ice screw info that has been passed around in the community.  That info convinced me to change what I use for ice screw sizes a few years ago.  

This is not a blog post I would have ever thought to make but Runar asked so here ya go. 




My climbing rack includes BD Express and Grivel Helix screws in the 10cm through 16cm sizes.  Generally I like the 13s if given a choice and I have good ice.   I'll use a 22 or a 16 for V threads.  But prefer a 22.

That said a number of better climbers than I use only 16cm tubes and up for everything,

More here.

http://www.jjgeng.com/html/body_ice_screw.html

http://www.needlesports.com/catalogue/content.aspx?con_id=095232e4-4caf-49ec-8495-9c9e00a633da


More of Oscar on Flow Reversal in really fat conditions, late winter 2010.

Mountain fashion?

I admit to having at one time or another wanting to be one of the "Guys".   Living in a mountain town or just hanging with your climbing buddies some times you want to look the part.  At some point most everyone does.

Dachstein sweaters or Francital  jackets come to mind from my past.    But a good puffy down sweater seems to be the status symbol these days.   Fashion?  It comes and it goes only to return....like a nice mullet :)

So you have to imagine when I meet one of our NW gear reps what my thought is about the "climbing" clothing he is describing to me.   His side of the conversation was something like this.  " Merino wool sweater with a Primaloft 1 body, nice stand up collar and thumb holes on the sleeves.  Super, technical piece.   Beautifully tailored, athletic fit.  You can just image, someone really cool, getting out of their fancy Porsche in this one!"

I'd heard of, but knew zip about this particular company that Kurt represented.   In for a penny, in for a pound I thought as I had already spent most of my day meeting with Kurt and discussing another company he represented in the US, Boreal.

So when Kurt described, "someone really cool"  I already  had someone in mind :)


"cool guy" winning the Bogus Hill climb in his Porsche.


But come on...throwing a light weight, high powered Porsche around is fun but nothing compares to sinker sticks on really steep neve.   Even tossing a 2200#, 300hp Porsche around aint that much fun!.

So while I can grudgingly settle into old age driving a Porsche...doing it right in the USA means you either do it on a track or risk going to jail.    I find neither appealing even while wearing stylish clothing.

As one might imagine Kurt was now going to have his hands full if he was going to impress me with a "highly technical sweater".   But I do get the lingo.   Let me back up just a bit.  I am now down to the last couple of weeks before leaving on a trip.  Things are hectic and I am tight on cash.  The last thing I need right now is to be buying gear I don't need for this particular trip.  Even the time away from my work bench is more expensive that usual.   So looking at a new product line I know virtually nothing about isn't high on my priority list.

Once through the doors of the Sherpa Adventure Gear headquarters in Renton, WA, Kurt and I quickly get down to business.  The first item he shows me is the "stylistic and highly technical sweater".   It is called the "Mantra sweater".  Damn it!  I want one.  Even a black one.  Although flaming hot RED would have been a better color.  Or really bright blue.   I can't decide if it was the ever so subtle "Porsche" sales pitch or that I really like the sweater.  Likely a little of both.  Do they some how know I designed and built/rebuilt my own Porsche?  Am I overly paranoid? (yes...they say in unison)  I REALLY don't want to spend any cash today.  Worse yet he shows me the women's model.  Screw the Porsche fashion connection.  This is the version I want for myself.  The purple is HOT!  I should have painted my car THAT color.  Same set up as men's Mantra but with a hood.    My lovely wife is no ice climber but she wears a hoody or two almost everywhere when she isn't working in a suit.  I know I have to buy this one for her.  I'll likely not get another chance at wholesale pricing.   Damn it!   Like a fool, I blurt out..."Can I buy this for my wife?"    "Of course...."    "This guy is a total tool", I am sure Kurt is thinking.

We go through the majority of the SAG line, much of it designed for alpine climbing.  A couple of things I have not seen else where I decide  I'll  have to buy as well.   Thankfully Kurt and SAG decide I might be worth *giving* a couple of samples for testing, including my very own Mantra, in "cool guy" black.   I get to avoid the perils of an "athletic fit" that way :)    But out the door, I am still a few hundred down on cash.  I am just too damn easy!   No control..zip...de nada....Damn it!

I know what I want in my own climbing gear.  The hood or even just that huge stand up collar pattern...I want.   Besides her favorite purple, here is what I could see of Tracy's Mantra hoody.

 

I've already used my Mantra version over a Patagonia Sun hoody and under a EB down hoody on ice, depending on the conditions.  The use of Merino wool in the sleeves and the body insulation, in vest form, of Primaloft 1 is brilliant.  As I expected, it should be one of my main layers climbing ice in the up coming trip.  I admit I did wear it to dinner yesterday.  And Tracy gracefully commented, "You look so handsome".   Damn it!  The problem now is I'll need another one to wear while hanging out in the local Chamonix bistros and not smell like a goat.

And maybe a third one to keep clean and nice for the occasional dinner and the Porcshe track days when the Nomex isn't required......damn it!   ;-)
Ya, lucky for me, I now know the Sherpa Rep....Damn it!

Useful Metric weight comparisons?

Many have asked so I've started doing metric weights to follow the rest of the civilised world :)
I'll add more as I get time.

The original here:

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/04/weights.html


Packs

Cold Cold World 35l custom climbing sack, Spectra rip stop, 1#9oz 709g
Same CCW in balistics nylon 2#6oz, sans lid 1#14oz
REI Flash 18l 9.2oz / 261g
Arcteryx Khazri 35l 2#13oz / 1275g
CCW Chaos, custom 21" back, Spectra r/s, 3#10 no lid 2#10oz
Jensen red pack cloth LG 1# 11oz
Jensen green 8oz Cordura 2#3oz
Cilo 30L in 210d Dyneema r/s 17" back 2# 9oz

Boots.. one boot .. (size 45)

La Sportiva Spantik 3#.05oz / 1362g
La Sportiva Spantik with a Baruntse liner 2# 12oz / 1247g
La Sportiva Baruntse 3#2.5oz / 1503g
La Sportiva Batura 1st gen. 2#7oz / 1106g
La Sportiva Batura 2nd gen. 2#9oz / 1170g

La Sportiva Nepal Evo 2#10.5oz / 1205g
La Sportiva Trango Evo Extreme GTX 2#3oz (35oz) / 992g
Scarpa Phantom Ultra new 2010 model 2#3.5oz (35.5oz) / 1006g
Scarpa Phantom Guide new 2010 model 2#7.5oz / 1120g
Scarpa Phantom 6000 new 2010 model 2#10oz (a full dbl boot with intergal gaiter) / 1190g

Ski Mountaineering Boots (one boot measured)

Dynafit TLT 5 Performance size 45.3-29.5 mono, no tongue 42.5oz/ 1210g (NT) - 45.5/1290g with tongue
TLT 5 Mountain TF 42.5oz./ 1200g (no tongue) - 45oz/1280 (with tongue)
TLT 5 Mountain TFX 48oz/1360g - 50.5/1440g
Black Diamond Prime 28.5 mono  62.5oz/1720 (Palau liner dropped 100g)
Vintage Salomon Sx 80 DH boots 51oz/1440g  (boot I used for any type of skiing)

Ice tools

Original Petzl Quark hammer 1# 8oz / 682g
Petzl Nomic with mixed pick/weight 1# 6.8oz / 648g
Black Diamond Cobra or 1 lb 5 oz (mini hammer) / 600g
Black Diamond Viper or 1 lb 6 oz (hammer) / 625g
2nd gen Black Diamond Fusion (green) 1#9oz / 680g
Chouinard 55cm bamboo 770g
Chouinard alpine hammer 533g
Terrodactyl hammer 790g

Carabiners (times 20 or 30!)

Black Diamond solid D 50g
Black Diamond wire gate D 46g
Wild Country wire gate D 40g
Trango lwt wire 28g
Black Diamond Oz 28g

Cams

Metolius Master cam 2.5" 110g
Original Wild Country Friend #2.5 130g
Original Wild Country Frend #3 142g
Wild Country Tech Friend #3 152g

Ice screws

12cm Grivel Helix 5.1oz / 144g
13cm Black Diamond (newest) Express 4.8oz / 136g
16cm Grivel Helix 5.8 oz / 166g
16cm Black Diamond Express 5.1oz / 144g
19cm Black Diamond 5.6oz / 159g

Belay jackets

Wild Things, Belay Jacket, 34oz pre 2010 / 963g
Eddie Bauer XV 38.5oz / 1091g
MEC Tango, 31.7oz / 898g
Patagonia DAS (new) 36.9oz / 1046g
Arcteryx Duelly 28oz / 794g
Narrona Lyngen 26oz / 737g
Narrona Trollveggen 37.5oz / 1063g
Arcteryx Atom Hoody SV 19.0 oz / 538g
Mountain Hardwear Compressor Hoody Primaloft 1 19.8oz / 561g
Mammut Ambler 47.2oz / 1338g

Lightly insulated jackets (belay sweaters)

EB Downlight Hoodie Pullover XL 15.4 oz / 455g
Arcteryx Atom LT Pull Over Lg 10.7oz / 304g
RAB Xenon  Hoody XL 11.0oz /316g
Arcteryx Atom lt Hoody Lg 14.4oz / 429g
Arcteryx Aphix  Lg  18.5oz/  540g
Arcteryx Atom Hoody SV Lg 19.0 oz / 562g
Mountain Hardwear Compressor Hoody (1st gen) 19.8oz / 586g
Arcteryx Gamma MX Hoody XL 1# 8oz, 24oz / 710g
Patagonia North Wall Hoody Lg 1# 12oz/ 790g

Shells

RAB Cirrus Wind-Top large 130.5g / 4.6 oz
Arcteryx Squamish pullover XL 5.6oz -166g
Westcomb's, Shift Neoshell ajcket Large 12oz- 340g
EB Frontpoint XL 18.5oz / 547g
Patagonia Knifeblade Xl 1#4.8oz / 588g
Patagonia Mixed Guide Lg 1# 6oz/ 620g

Pants

Paradox, mid weight longs 8oz / 227g
Arcteryx Gamma Lt large 12.4 oz / 351g
Mountain Hardwear Ridge Runner 3/4 16oz / 453g
Arcteryx Gamma MX large 19oz / 539g
Patagonia Guide Pant 34" 1# 5.5oz/ 602g
Patagonia Alpine Pant 34" 1# 5.8oz / 610g
NWAlpine salopettes large 21.6oz / 612g
Black Diamond Northwall Pant 27.5oz / 778g
Arcteryx Gamma MX salopettes large 30.4oz / 861g
Arcteryx GoreTex Theta Bib large 23.3oz / 660g

Helmets

Black Diamond Traser 8.5oz / 241g
Black Diamond Half Dome 12oz / 340g
Petzl Ecrin Roc 16oz / 453g
Grivel Salamander 13.7oz / 388g
Petzl Elios 12oz / 340g
Petzl Meteor III 7.9oz / 224g

Crampons per pair

Petzl Dartwin 1/2 bot 30.5oz / 865g
Petzl Dart no bot 28.8oz / 816g
Petzl Lynx dual points/bot 1080 g 
Lynx Mono point no bot 910 g

Grivel G12 ful bot 35.6oz / 1010g
Grivel G 20 28.2 oz / 800g
Grivel G 22 w/full bot 900g

Black Diamond Stinger, w/ full bot 32oz / 900g
Black Diamond Stainless Sabertooth full bot 34.2oz / 969g
Black Diamond Stainless Sabertooth no bot with Petzl bail toe 28.4oz / 808g
Black Diamond Stainless Sabertooth no bot with Petzl bail toe, Neve hee. flex bar 24.8 oz / 704g
Black Diamond Stainless Cyborg full bot 39.4oz / 1116g
Black Diamond Stainless Cyborg, mono, no bot, 28.6oz / 811g

Salewa/Chouinard hinged with straps (1980) 880g
Salewa/Chouinard clip-on rigids (1990) 920g

New Beal rope!

I am a big fan of Beal ropes.  And I have climbed on just about every rope made.  When I pay my own money for a rope I want the best made for my own use.  Lots of decision making goes into the process of deciding, "what rope".  Beal most closely matches my own thoughts on ropes.  I generally climb on either the Ice Twins or the Joker given a choice if it is a serious climb for me.

I got this press release from Beal via email this morning.  I have not seen or felt the new rope but always expect great things from Beal.  It would seem they have delivered something special from the video.

  Craig has left a new comment on your post "New Beal rope!

"This process was used with the Wallmaster rope and an low stretch called the Access. Both rope's suffered from the glue, which bonds the inner and outer of the rope together, dissolving when wet and leaving the rope lumpy. I've first had experience with this as I got a Wallmaster rope wet and found it really awful to use."

I obviously need some more info from Beal...but we are talking about an indoor specific rope, the  "Wallmaster" and an outdoor rope the "Diablo" here.

Thank you Matt, for pointing out the original confusion between the indoor (Wallmaster) and out door (Diablo)  ropes.


Beal's speil:
"We are happy to introduce you the latest BEAL rope, diablo 10.2mm Unicore, which wins an ISPO Award. This dynamic rope is the first outdoor BEAL rope made using the BEAL Unicore Process. Only used with semi static ropes until this year, the Unicore technology is now available on BEAL DIABLO 10.2 mm outdoor dynamic ropes. Thanks to this BEAL technology, which sufficiently binds the sheath and the core of the rope, durability is markedly improved while the rope remains supple and easy to use. Application of Unicore technology results in an astonishing new rope construction. It sufficiently binds the sheath to the core of the rope, radically decreasing the occurrence of slippage while keeping the rope very compact. The DIABLO rope is supple, easy to use and is extremely durable."


Just released video on The DIABLO rope...




 This is NOT a GOOD sign!  Old video to lauch a new product?   

A quick Internet search for the old Wall Master rope turns up this!    "Wall Master Rope-English"




Beal's answer 2/10/2011  and my question previous:

Hi Dane,


I understand it is a bit confusing...

To be precise, the Diablo uses the Unicore Process technology, the same as the Wallmaster and the Acces. But we went forward in the development of this technology and we achieve to have a better rope than the Wallmaster, dedicated to indoor but also outdoor climbing.  When you use this 10.2mm rope, you fell like using a 9.8mm rope... we just come back from ISPO when we got an Award, and visitors, climbers and journalists were very impressed by this new product.  (at least one journalist -me- that is  not impressed at this point)

To be clearer, we changed the video on Youtube. Please could you change the link on your blog ? Here is the new and good video :    



I are preparing a more precise press release for next week and we will tell you more about the availability of this rope in the coming weeks. Thanks for your question and your support.

All the best,

pierre-emmanuel


Le 6 févr. 2011 à 17:30, rdburns@cnw.com a écrit :

Greetings Pierre-Emmanuel,

Could you briefly explain the difference between the new Diablo and the past Beal Wallmaster and Access ropes that were such disappoointments?

Using the old Wallmaster rope video is not encouraging with the newest Diablo release.

One of my audience caught that error with in literally seconds of my posting your press release. That never bodes well.

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/02/new-beal-rope.html

regards,

Dane Burns
@ Cold Thistle

And from our Friends in Finland!

From the top of Europe a great blog and an approprieate picture for the current and reaccuring topic of crampons.

Thanks Toby!

Gotta watch that crampon fit.  Nepal Evos and Black Diamond Cyborgs should be good to go though.  That one might well be operator error.  Sorry Toni...as I was cheering for you!    But I know the head of Black Diamond's hard goods program uses the same set up and hasn't lost a crampon yet.

More here:

http://lightfromthenorth.blogspot.com/2011/01/january-ice-climbing-and-hiking.html


Black Diamond field testing the same boot/crampon combo on Utah ice last winter.

More on crampons, this time from Joe Palma

Joe Palma?   The early Polar Circus topo was Joe's work.   He has been around.

Ya just gotta love a guy who is well on the way to winning the gear war by attrition :)

"Dane,
I'm going to try to sit down with all my boots/crampons this weekend, fit them stock and modified and get you some photos, if you're interested. In terms of selection I believe I have:
Boots:
Salomon Super Mountain 9 Guides (uninsulated, damn...loved the fit on these, perfect, just weigh a ton)
Scarpa Freney (blue first gen)
Kayland Super Ice
LS Nepal EVO GTX
LS Batura (first gen)
LS Trango Prime
Scarpa Phantom Guides (latest gen)

Crampons:

Dartwins (sidelock)
G14s (crampomatic)
G20 (both 2009/2010 and 2010/2011 versions, additional small frontpoint on the 2010/2011 version)
Air Tech (newmatic)
Rambo 4
Rambocomps
Old Sabretooth Pro
SS Sabretooth Pro
Finding the G20s and SS Sabretooths are the go-to choices on the Primes
and Phantom Guides
Joe"

"Hey Dane,


Attaching a few pictures from some setups. the possible permutations would take days to run through so I haven't got a complete set. My observation is that the Petzl front bale is the most likely to fit other manufacturers crampons,

BD's/Grivel's are generally too wide to swap to other frames. However, I'm not 100% happy with the fit of any combinations...was in the Daks this past weekend and was annoyed that I had a rattle in my Phantom Guide/Sabretooth combo (right boot only) that I was able to eliminate by cranking down the
tension on the heel bale. Didn't seem to impact performance at all, but I don't want to be wasting energy thinking about losing a crampon!

(my note) * I ended up bending Petzl bails to fit my Phantom Ultras with Sabertooths till I got a almost perfect fit.    The Ultra and Phantom 6000 likely have the hardest toe priles to fit currently.   The modified Sabers now fit my Guides as well.*  

(back to Joe)
End of the day, I'm running G20's (latest ones) and new Sabretooth crampons stock, interchangeably on both the Phantom Guides and Trango Primes. Just need to modify the length and adjust the heel level tension. Relatively happy with both setups, as long as I carefully adjust the heel bale tension.

I really would like to be able to use my Rambo 4s on either set of boots, but regardless what I do with it I can't get a bomber fit. The flat profile of the frame and rocker in my boots just don't play well together."


La Sportiva Prime with Stainless Sabertooth with a Black Diamond Bale on the lft and the Petzl bail on the right.

By all accounts the new Scarpa soles are difficult to fit. Stock Rambo IV and a Scarpa Guide.  Note the gap at the toe.

 toe gap.....on the Rambo/Guide combo

 Rambo/Guide combo with a Petzl front bail...better but not perfect

More from Joe on 2/07/2011

Made an interesting discovery regarding the Rambo 4. Happened in to Mountain Equipment Co-op, here in Toronto, last week and noticed that the pair of Rambo 4s they had on display appeared to have a much more pronounce rocker to them. Dropped in again on the weekend with my Phantom Guides, Trango Primes and original Rambo 4s in to take a closer look. Sure enough the frames are different, there's a visible dfference in rocker between the pair I had (purchased late 2009, original active anti-bots) and the new (all

black ABS antibots). Makes for a much better fit on both boots. MEC was kind enough to do a straight exchange for me, assuming that the flat frame on my pair must have been a defect. Climbed in 'em yesterday with the Trangos...man, they're fantastic for pure ice.

Arcteryx Atom LT Hoody....just how good is it?

Jim asked,  "You have mentioned that you use the Atom LT.  I looked at one in the store and really liked it, but two things stopped me.

What is with the stretch side panels? I haven't seen this on any other parka. Seems like this would cost warmth with little upside.

No hood adjustment at all. WTF? Seems like this would be a huge PITA. Doesn't this make the hood next to useless?"


Yes the Atom LT is one of my main stay pieces for cold weather climbing.  And one of my better investments in awhile for my own gear. I have and use two of them constantly. The vents are critical for using this jacket/sweater and do allow you to use a super light weight (as in .oz)  insulated garment  that is a lot warmer for the weight than anything else I can think of,  because it breathes so well. Wild Things and Mtn Hardware have now copied the technology/design for their own versions. Hood is actually very good!  No issue what so ever and easily fits over a helmet. It is extremely user friendly in fact.

The down sides?  The shell material doesn't fair well rolling around on hard mixed.  Rock climbing, chimney and off width, will shred them pretty easily.   Soft shells are the weapon of choice there.
The stretch panels?  They aren't very wind resistant.  A lwt wind shirt under the Atom Lt will up the warmth in a cold wind.  But the Atom is still no belay jacket imo.  It is a climbing garment not a belay garment in cold weather.  Think sweater, not jacket.  The zipper?  I had it pointed out to me that the zipper has no lock on it.  Intentional by design to make it last longer I was told.  I'd been using the Atom Lt for a year before I realised this fact.  Read it actually.  Loaned a buddy one of my spare Atom Lts and he hated the zipper.  I have never, ever noticed it.  So no down side for me at all.  But worth knowing.

And the Atom LT can be used as a mid layer easy enough in the rock climbing situation to beef up the temps a soft shell can be used in with some comfort.  The Atom LT's pattern and trim fit help there.  It isn't the most intuitive way to layer (with a wind short or soft shell) but it works for certain projects.

Weight comparisons?

Lightly insulated jackets (belay sweaters) and shells:

EB Downlight Hoodie Pullover XL 15.4 oz   455g
EB Frontpoint XL 18.5oz   547g
Arcteryx Atom lt Hoody large 14.4oz   429g
Arcteryx Atom Hoody SV 19.0 oz   562g
Mtn Hardware Compressor Hoody 19.8oz   586g
Arcteryx Gamma MX Hoody XL 24oz   710g
Arcteryx Squamish pullover XL 5.6oz   166g

On that list only the Compressor, Atom SV and EB Down Hoody are warmer.  All are a tiny bit heavier and generally too warm to climb in alone as the 2nd layer because.....they don't breath nearly as well as the Atom LT.   I will most typically add any of those three as a third layer when belaying or for climbing (more likely descending) when it is really cold out or the wind comes up.


It is a green Atom Lt in this picture with the black Compressor Hoody jacket used as my belay jacket over it.  Pretty cold belaying in this picture and then again, I peeled the Compressor and just climbed in the Atom LT and a R1 hoody.

The Atom lt can be a mid layer for warmth. But I use it generally as a outer shell garment for cold weather climbing when I am very active. I no longer use a mid layer   Some type of Hoody on the skin,  likely a SAG Khushi, NWAlpine Hoody or R1. Then my 2nd layer, generally a Atom LT or a shell garment like the EB Frontpoint or a soft shell Arcteryx Gamma MX.  The Atom LT (or anything similar in weight like the Nano Puff)  is NOT a belay jacket...more a "belay sweater" and not that warm in the grand scheme of things if you are going to use it like that. Which I do if the temps permit it.

More here on what I think is a better layering system.

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/11/winter-layers.html

In the Ice fields late Nov. Good wind blowing while we discuss the avi conditions.

The Joke Slinger in his Atom LT at -20 something when the extra venting under the arms is crucial.

Another pretty cold day and in the shade.  But that is the point, the Atom LT allows you to climb in relative comfort (and it was "relative comfort" on this day in lwt single boots) on some pretty cold days.

More here on the idea of a climbing sweater.

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/12/climbing-sweater.html

Joe Tasker and Dick Renshaw English Alpinists?

Much of the ideas you read here from my own climbing came early on as I and my partners were testing our own limits as young men.  The climbs I aspired to then are still the climbs I aspire to do now. Ice and mixed climbs generally not higher than 6000m.  More typically less, at around 4500m.   That covers most of the alpine faces in Alaska, the Canadian Rockies and the Alps.

Some how I am not surprised that the same discussions in gear choices we had in the '70s are the same discussions we are having today.   Frozen feet and frost bite in single boots have brought us the warmest double boots ever made.  But may be not the best double boots ever made.   High tech clothing, insulation and fabrics are exceptional now .  But the designs and products you can buy off the shelf may not be the best designs for climbing.   Designs intentionally must do multi tasking as ski, snowboarding  and climbing clothing.   "Climbing designs" being the last in line generally as the smallest consumer group.
Long gone are the days when most serious climbers owned a sewing machine and actually knew how to use it!

Tasker and Renshaw did a number of first British and first British winter ascents in the Alps from the mid '70s  on.  Including a winter ascent of the Eiger in 1975.  There were others that were just as impressive at the time as the Eiger.  Both went on to succeed on bigger climbs.  The climbs are the same.  Our gear has gotten better.  I would be hard pressed to say we as climbers have gotten better.  Certainly our imaginations have grown as have our capabilities.

A lot has changed in alpine climbing over the last 35 years.  Including the weather.  It is generally warmer.    But much of the basic challenge has stayed the same as well,  which is why winter alpine climbing still interests me..   

This article is from the August/September 1975 issue of MOUNTAIN LIFE.   

Jonathon Griffith photo @ http://www.alpineexposures.com/

One Man's Gear
 by Joe Tasker (1948-1982)


"Are you taking your long-johns?"

The author of the "Wall in Winter", an account of his seven-day epic on the Eigerwand with Dick Renshaw, featured in MOUNTAIN LIFE 20, will need no introduction to readers. Here Joe Tasker presents his own personal likes and dislikes in Alpine equipment.

Even after years of practice I still find that before an Alpine route the same questions about clothing and equipment get asked: 'Are you taking your "long-johns"?'

'No, I've got my overtrousers. They'll do just as well. How many jerseys have you got?'

'Just one spare.'

And so it goes on, the ceaseless evaluation of weight against eventuality; the number of krabs and pegs estimated in accordance with the difficulty of the climb and then whittled down to a manageable load. Each time it all needs rethinking and there is no guarantee that one has chosen the right combination and amount of clothing and equipment until one is back safely off the mountain. But some things can be seen to be more useful and better suited to Alpine climbing than items of clothing and equipment currently in use. One of the most awkward pieces of clothing that many people wear are those much praised thick, woollen breeches [I think Americans call them knickers]. They are meant to be warm even when wet, but in practice they tend to be too warm and uncomfortable when it is hot, and when it is cold the snow sticks to the wool, melts from the body warmth and freezes into an icy armour-plating, stiff to walk or move in and storing up moisture to melt later in the warmer surroundings of a hut or bivouac. Much more sensible - but much more expensive and not readily available - is a salopette. This is a chest-high trouser with sewn-in braces; for climbing the leg of the salopette ends low down on the calf and for skiing it is ankle-length. The design is excellent; the height of the 'waist' virtually eliminates the cold spots which can develop there from jersey and shirt getting separated from breeches. The length of the leg cuts out the cold spot below the knee where gaiters and breeches often part. On top of that the material dries readily if it does get damp and consequently does not freeze solid. The material is a stretch fabric, not completely waterproof but, more importantly, snow does not adhere to it. Skiers have been used to much more sensible material for dealing with snow for years but I wouldn't recommend rushing out and buying a climbing salopette derived from the ski salopette, even if you can find any on sale. They were retailing last year in Chamonix at £27 per pair!

As with so many articles of clothing the salopette can be readily made from materials obtainable in many big stores or by mail order. It only requires a bit of patience and a few hours with a sewing machine.

It is difficult, however, to compromise on footwear. Even for summer climbing in the Alps double boots seem to be the best thing. This may simply be a reflection of the sort of climbs that Dick Renshaw and myself have been doing over the last few years, but we have done some hard rock routes in 'doubles' too - such as the Walker Spur and the Bonatti/Gobbi route on the Eckpfeiler. At first it wasn't through choice that we climbed such routes in doubles but because they were the only boots we had. Although such routes were quite trying in doubles the boots came into their own on mixed climbs. We rarely experienced cold feet on stances and once survived a whole night on the Dent Blanche North Face standing up on a step cut in the ice, unable even to take our crampons off, never mind slacken our boots (as the books advise). Although we had to wiggle our toes to make sure they were still there we never had the slightest trace of frost-bite afterwards.
Except for the Galibier Hivernales, most double boots seem similar in their warmth-retaining properties and clumsiness; my own are Harlin Leroux, which don't seem to be made anymore. There isn't a lot one can say about krabs, nuts, slings and pegs, except that we British climbers seem to take far too many. Perhaps this is due to the habit of taking meticulous care to protect pitches on a British climb - a precaution which is out of place in the Alps, where protection is usually more straightforward and must be more rapidly arranged. Some of the 'super-strong' krabs on the market today seem to be too fat for ease of manipulation in awkwardly-placed pegs or where one wants to slip a piece of line or tape through the eye of the peg. I do not really think that there is any one set of equipment that is the answer; it depends on what you grow accustomed to. Of the various models of curved pick axes available Dick and I have been using Chouinard axes and hammers. At the time we got them there were few others available. In summer the combination of axe and hammer curved picking' seemed to work well, though Dick was justifiably apprehensive of his axe after the tip broke off on a winter climb in Scotland - an eventuality one dare not contemplate on a big ice route like the North Face of the Droites. When the ice is very hard, though, as it can be in winter, the Chouinard hammer is very unsatisfactory - the shaft being too short. This causes poor purchase in the ice due to the limited arc of swing and also damages the knuckles, even through Dachstein mitts. In very hard ice we were often making a Terrordactyl-type insertion movement, and that sort of axe/hammer might be more efficient on certain ground - but against that would have to be weighed its disadvantages on more general ground.

On the question of crampons I am undecided. I climbed a lot in a pair of Salewa adjustables which someone described as 'bent tin' and another lad, whose gear hadn't arrived in Chamonix, declined my offer to loan them to him until I said that they had taken me that year - amongst other climbs - up the North Face of the Eiger, Dent Blanche and Eckpfeiler. I didn't see them again for another six months and was consequently forced to buy another pair. I chose the Chouinards but didn't find myself on really difficult ground in them until a year later. Meanwhile Dick had used his on various hard climbs and was visibly startled one day on the camp-site when doing the ritual sharpening of the points to find fracture lines across both crampons; they subsequently came apart in his hands. A couple of weeks beforehand he had been on the North Face of the Col de Peuterey. They fractures must have occurred then.

It constantly surprises me to think of how much crampons do put up with and that the front points don't just buckle up.

As far as performance goes the 'bent tin' Salewa crampons seemed perfectly satisfactory, but I did feel that Dick had the advantage over me on the North Face of the Eckpfeiler, when we were climbing very steep ice for about 1500 feet and he was wearing the Chouinards. They do give very good support for front-pointing but after one or two unnerving moments on difficult mixed ground I've never really felt at home in Chouinard crampons where there is rock around. The more flexible crampon seems to mould itself to the contours of the rock and hold better.

The sharpening of crampon points is overdone in the Alps. When you think of how much rough ground you often cover before meeting the real difficulties of a climb it is quite clear that all the effort put into sharpening them - and quite a bit of steel - is lost. I felt the points of my crampons at the foot of the Eckpfeiler; they had been razor-sharp to start with but were more blunt than they had ever been - and that was just with the descent from the Trident bivouac hut, and Col Moore! I don't think the same holds true for axe and hammer.

The drive-in/screw-out ice screw is the most useful ice peg around. The oddly-shaped Salewa-type, however, tends to hold too well in very hard ice. It can take far too long to extract and precious time is wasted hacking it free from the ice or riskingmaking it unusable by warping or even snapping it while it is still tight. A much more manageable drive-in/screw-out is the Simond-type,which has a round, slightly tapering shaft with a fine thread. It seems to hold well and is extracted with a minimum of effort. However, in some ice the Salewa does hold better.

Finally a word about food. Sometimes our food seems to weigh a bit heavy but at least we know that what we have got is nourishing. Over several seasons we have evolved a bivouac menu that has nothing to do with dehydrated foods and soups - which seem to be the standby for many teams. Quite apart from any considerations as to whether there is actually any food value in the dehdrated stuff, it takes too much heating and cooking.

For soup we take bouillon cubes - a continental equivalent of Oxo - in various flavours. This is a meat extract, very tasty, and replaces a lot of the salt lost in the day's exertions. It only needs to be put into hot water and it's ready.Into that you can put polenta, a ground corn, easily obtainable abroad and far more nutritious than powdered potato (Hiebeler survived several days in winter living solely on heated-up polenta. You can also buy fairly cheaply big, fatty lumps of meat to cut up into the bouillon. This makes the 'soup' into a tasty concoction of real value.

These comments are not meant to be definitive but might suggest new possibilities and improvements. The End!


More here on Taker and Renshaw:

http://reference.findtarget.com/search/Joe%20Tasker/

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Joe_Tasker

http://cc.bingj.com/cache.aspx?q=dick+renshaw&d=5037361146364964&mkt=en-US&setlang=en-US&w=54fd9b70,895d08b0

I'd like to thank IAN PARSONS for tracking down this article for me and making the effort to email it from England to the far side of the USA.  The effort is much appreciated!

A Bar? What Bar?.Black Diamond crampon connecting bars?

My new BD Stingers may or may not come with a flex bar.  They are lighter, but it seems counter productive as we are talking a new technical crampon. I'd want a rigid bar, a rigid crampon and rigid boots.

So I pulled the bars off my Cyborgs to use on the Stingers.  But that left me one pair of bars short if I wanted to try some crampons side by side.  Or like with the Stingers one with a Flex and one with a solid bar.  So locally I run down to REI and buy a spare pair of bars.  But these are long bars as there are no reg bars in stock.  No worries just wack them off, right?

But then I realise if I want the most rigid crampon I can get from Black Diamond, what I really want is the long bars and wack them off on all my crampons.   Well may be I do?  Less holes and more rigid if your boot size will allow them for size.  Mine will.   I use rigid or nearly rigid boots to climb in it shouldn't be a durability issue even in my size 12s.   The more rigid the crampon bar is the more rigid the crampon is.  And on pure ice the better they will climb.  The tighter the bar/crampon inner face is the more rigid the crampon.   To keep from breaking connecting bars you add a flexible bar.  To allow more flex you loosen the crampon/bar inner face.  Reliability?  Flexlible things generally don't break unexpectantly?

Know your bar is the answer.  Mix and match accordingly but pays to be cautious!

BD stainless crampon connecting bars

Flex bars 1.6mm
Asymmetrical bars 2.6mm
Standard bars 2.6mm
Long bars 2.47mm (1/25th less material strength than the standard bar)

You get the idea :) 

How about we ALL get on the clue bus?

It is so easy to avoid a train wreck...why wouldn't you?

Just the simple, basics of life... you know... like:

Packs you don't need to be Houdini to figure out how to get on, get off or pack

Hammers that you can actually hammer something useful with

Stop trying to sell down insulation as a "belay" parka

Trying to tell me why a detachable hood is a good thing on a belay parka

Umbilical attachments or even umbilicals actually designed to stay attached

Tool handles actually as strong and reliable as the leashes they replaced

While we are at it, a commercial  umbilical that can take 2000lbs static load

"Soft mid sole ice climbing boots"......which makes about as much sense as "melting ice cream".

Just say *NO* to flexible crampons, you life will be better for it

And say *NO* to climbing gear that you throw away after it hits a file twice


(hit and run, Rant mode off )