Flow Reversal in typical conditions, early Winter 2008.
When the original Chouinard screws came out...you know 30 plus years ago,,,most every one had the rack full of 22 and 28cm screws and maybe a Snarg or tow. A full rack then was 8 may be even 10 screws.
Kinda shocking really just how few screws we used BITD for some fairly steep climbing. Considering it generally took two men and a boy to place the screws of the day in cold ice.
I don't mind giving an opinion (ya that is obvious) of what I wear or what I think on most things but the tools or crampons that you choose are up to you. Same with the other gear you use. The idea here is info, comparisons and opinions. Choices. The length of screws I choose generally depends on the quality of ice. Ice quality isn't something always easily known from the ground when sorting gear. The links below offers some ice screw info that has been passed around in the community. That info convinced me to change what I use for ice screw sizes a few years ago.
This is not a blog post I would have ever thought to make but Runar asked so here ya go.
My climbing rack includes BD Express and Grivel Helix screws in the 10cm through 16cm sizes. Generally I like the 13s if given a choice and I have good ice. I'll use a 22 or a 16 for V threads. But prefer a 22.
That said a number of better climbers than I use only 16cm tubes and up for everything,
More of Oscar on Flow Reversal in really fat conditions, late winter 2010.
Temple Crag North Couloir
4 weeks ago