Looking back at Covid?

I had made this post on a FB page April of 2020 with little care and no clue where we would be today.   I found the post gain this morning and like the reminder. 

We aren't totally locked down in Idaho but practicing social distancing is lowering the curve and making a big difference in new numbers. First time out in a month and was able to get in a tortured 18 mile one way ridge line tour. Bad snow so it went a little longer than planned. Skiing is skiing even if you are just walking in knee deep isothermal chit snow that wouldn't support a ski.

I should add this considering the current situation via the virus and 1st Responders. By the time I realized I was going to be really late for my pickup and with no or little phone reception to call this one off I was feeling pretty stupid. It would be an easy run up the ridge line via the road I was following on a snow machine to pick me up if something had gone wrong. Not like post holing has ever caused a sprained knee or an easy slow motion fall hasn't caused a nasty spiral fracture. I am use to getting in over my head and getting out again...knock on wood....but I was feeling pretty chagrin at the thought of having to ask for help to get off an easy ski tour. I was having a hard time imagining what all would have been involved had my ride home decided to call 911 when I was 6 hours late. Some lessons learned and relearned again. Ya'll be careful out there!

Late?  Yes...hours late.

Tifosi Sledge sunglass with CLARION RED FOTOTEC lens?

Common for me to go back and look at a product I really like. Less common of me to go back and buy something again that I really like and to my surprise have been using a lot.

 https://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2020/05/sledge-sunglesses-by-tifosi.html 

 We are having an outstanding Fall here. The riding has been exceptional. 

 My general review format is, "did I notice the gear". If I did notice the gear it is likely not such good gear for me. If I didn't notice the gear past, "was actually helping me enjoy the sport", then I am likely impressed. For a few decades Oakley has been my go to sunglass on the bike. 

 I don't like change much so I keep one good pair around to keep me and my eyes happy. The Tifosi Sledge was inexpensive by comparison to any Oakley and silly me, made a lot of judgements on the lens quality and technology just from the price.

 Until wearing the Sledge I just thought of Tifosi and a "cheap" sun glass brand by comparison to a other more well-known glasses. Admittedly really dumb on my part. 

 I really like the huge field of view in the Tifosi Sledge. Reminds of some of the old school Oakleys from the 80s that the Sledge profile (and others now) resemble. I liked it enough on the bike that I went looking for others just so I didn't have to look through the frame of the glass if I didn't want to or was incapable of lifting my head to look ahead on the bike. So much that I bought a couple of cheap pairs with similar frames off Amazon. 

 Silly move there. Lens were OK for the price...but nothing to write here about. My experience is lens are really, really good or they are crap. But the frames...they were no question, crap. Nose piece was killing me on just a 30 minute ride. Ditched them asap. 

 The Tifosi Sledge on the other hand was really comfortable. Even more comfortable than my favorite Oakleys I hold in reserve for the adventure rides. So comfortable I simply don't notice the fit, the frame, the lens, in any condition even after hours on the bike. My better half with a much smaller face seems to agree with me. Impressive to me that one glass can be used by both of us and we are happy with the results. Next up for me?    This glass and skimo soon enough. 

 SLEDGE-MATTE BLACK-CLARION RED FOTOTEC $79.95 

 May be something a little special if you have the need. We bought ours (wife and I) on sale. I really like them a lot. Enough so, to write about them a second time! The lens changes from a cat 1 to a cat 3 lens in a very short amount of time. The Tifosi Fototech is as least as good/fast on lens change as my favorite ski glasses by Julbo.   That is saying something!    Julbos like Oakley also easily cost dbl the retail of the Tifosis.

The list?

 I have seen this before but seems like a better list now that I live 600 miles closer.  But a wonderful story of life in the mountains as well.  Worth a look if you haven't seen it.

Inspiration?

 

I have no clue if I am anything like other people when it comes to inspiration and imagination.  I do know that as long as I can remember I have admired other athletes for their known skills and likely even more for what they could imagine.  

Early on in my climbing I had read somewhere that one of the great alpine climbers of the 1920 or '30s said, "where there is snow, I can go".  That to me was imagination, as silly as it sounds now.  That quote opened my eyes to what might be possible.  Then as now I do a lot more reading than actual climbing.

But it wasn't long after reading that I went looking for snow to climb.   The quote might well have been from Wilo Wasenbach.

  

If you have been around the climbing community long enough if becomes pretty obvious it can be a dangerous sport no matter the level you climb at.  The higher the level of your achievements puts you at a higher level of risk.  It doesn't take much research or experience to see that many of the "best" in every generation of alpine climbers don't generally live full lives.  

What I am really thankful for, isn't the technology advances that a good many climbers have brought to the sport but the level of imagination they bring to do things differently.  Making adventures and efforts once thought impossible, eventually common place.  Even if those sorts of efforts were only being done by a very capable few. 

The inspiration you get for free.  And often as not that will still spark my own imagination and give me a goal to aspire too.  It doesn't have to be a cutting-edge goal.  Just a goal.   For that I am grateful. 

Gear geeking and why it can pay off.

Bear with me ;)

10 years ago I came home from the Alps tired and not recovering well.  One of the toys I had to play with trying to stay on top of my efforts and recovery was a polar heart rate watch.  I'd used in in Triathlons and running in general prior.  And I'd used a Mio HR monitor prior to that.

I was lucky enough to be sponsored by Polar for a few seasons and had great faith in the Polar products because of their support.

I am genetically blessed with a resting heart rate of 44 to 46.   So when I couldn't get my heart rate below 60 after any of my efforts in the Apls (and none of them I'd consider BIG efforts) I figured I was just burn out, and needed some time off and a rest.   That as in April.   By June my resting heart rate was still in the low 60s or high 50s.  Still not good enough.   I just kept blowing the discrepancy off to no working hard enough and by mid-summer intentionally being a lot less active.

My annual physical is in Sept. every year   Even my GP thought I was healthy but thought I should see the ENT guy for some swelling on th exterior of my neck.   I was getting concerned as my throat and side of my face's symmetry seemed slightly off.  Enough that I could see it shaving.    Thankfully a Physician Assistant (who had previously been a MD in Russian) knew what he was looking at.  it was bad enough that 48 hrs. later I was in surgery for stage 4 throat cancer. 

I knew there was something wrong.  My resting pulse was sky for me.  I was lucky my cancer was caught before it could go any further or get any bigger.    

Neat thing about the older Mio HR monitors was it didn't need chest strap.  The Polar HR monitors did.  They are a pain to use.  But not enough of a pain to ignore one.  I'm glad I didn't. 

Today?   I bought my wife a Fitbit watch not long ago to help her on her own fitness program.  Turns out she really likes it.  The little watch tracks her steps, her HR and he sleep patterns.   Handy tools all if you wonder why you aren't feeling as healthy as you might.

I found myself a little jealous of a little watch that does so much.   I have my own testing and endurance data going back to the '80s.  And I like making comparisons to a 40 year younger version of me.  Even more so with some of the health issues I've worked through.

Which got me thinking a watch HRM might well be a handy thing.  Might just tell me when i ma stoking out on the side of a hill or the ditch where I fell off my bike :)

So the bike?  (follow along I'll get there eventually) Power meters 10 years ago were very expensive.  I always wanted one to up my training but never had the coin I was willing to drop on one.  Turns out the price has been chopped in half these days and better yet the data is even better.  

Recently I was wanting to rebuild one of my 10 speed Cervelos and though the addition of a power meter would be a fun toy at 1/2 price while doing that.  And it was.  I learned more from 5 ride on a power meter than i had on years training with just a HRM.  Basics is by the time a HRM shows you have blown up you have pretty much toasted the effort for the day.

A power meter can tell you how to ride a fine line and never intentionally blow up if you are paying attention.   I ended up buying a Wahoo Element and a Quarq Power meter.  If nothing else I wanted to see just how different the power of each leg was after breaking my pelvis.  No additional straps and the Element takes care of the rest through a phone app that you can study and apply at home.

Quarq DZero DUB Power Meter Spider | Competitive Cyclist

ELEMNT BOLT GPS Bike Computer Bundle | Wahoo Fitness

I was liking the power meter a lot and learning from it.  It didn't take me long to start thinking GPS tracking of my actual ride would be pretty cool.  But I wasn't interested in another computer upgrade.  I also started thinking a no strap HRM  and  the addition of a I phone might be really handy climbing, running, and swimming.  Might be a few other things I could use it for as well.  I'd seen them from Garmin and Yahoo and thought what a waste of money originally.

I had ended up with a good size credit at my LBS selling my tri bike.  On a lark really, I bought the Yahoo Element Rival watch.

On the best purchases ever for me.   If I had known I'd likely not have bought the power meter.  I am still learning how to run the watch but so far it gives me way more info than I can use at the moment for training and a GPS route of every workout with a lot more useful additional data.      

I like tech tools that surprise me and help me do more with less.   I like knowing exactly how my main machine is working.    The Rival makes that happen.  YMMV.

Wahoo Triathlon Watch | ELEMNT RIVAL GPS Smartwatch | Wahoo Fitness

Not a place I really like to be.....

I've never been on terrain skiing in North America or the little bit in South America where I really thought I need a technical tool in my hand let along on a harness or in a pack.

France?  I can't say that.   Stuff gets skied most every were that would likely scare me bad, put me in a pity party and really wanting a rope.  Just seems to be easier to access and more common in Chamonix for me.    But one thing for sure it is not common need for me.

I used this axe from Camp on a trip of the Classic Haute route from Cham to Zermatt.  It never came out of my pack on the couple of small bits of boot packing we did.

A week later when we skied the Cosmic in hard conditions and I actually did want to rap one more rope length, and needed an extra anchor the aluminum head wasn't my 1st choice for a tool.   But it was what I had.  And it sucked.

A trip the next day to Snells I picked up this one.   This one or better yet a pair of them you can climb ice with.  Pretty much any ice  :)

The old hammer version, and shortest, Petzl Sum'tec.   After a couple of uses I bought two and used them a couple of times instead on Nomics on easy alpine ice that I skied in and out of.   Only down side in the pack is they are heavy.   The weight is a good thing for me when I am scared and trying to set dubious anchors or want a self-belay while I am trying to set dubious anchors.    

I wrote this in Jan of 2017.

Cold Thistle: Petzl's new tools?!

Been a while but now we know what was then "new".  I had hoped for Ueli's "mini Nomic" but that is not what we got.  Recently I bought a pair of the Gully tools.  Ace and hammer combo.   Chances are I'll be using them some in March.   FWIW...I bought mine on sale in the off season at $99 per tool.  Having seen now where and how they have been used the last 5 years I hope to be pleased with the purchase.   I have a short trip planned mid-winter specifically just to play with them.  

Any one care to comment on their own set of Gully tools?

 

Currently $127.50 at backcountry.com

Petzl Gully Ice Axe - Climb (backcountry.com)
  

Thanks Anthony!   Among others Colin, Ueli and Kilian have been standouts for adding new techniques and specialized gear for us all in the last decade and more.   Fun trying to keep up! (with just the gear)

Nomic weights are a perfect fit on the Gully tools.   And an obvious advantage in anything but neve conditions.  

Gully hammer       362g with high rubber wrap and pick weights

Gully  axe             352g with high rubber wrap and pick weights

Sum'tec hammer   496g with full rubber wrap

Nomic hammer     588g  that is bone stock

100g = 3.5oz

Kinda funny when you look closely at all three.  The fly weight.  The other arguably most versatile ice tool to date.   And an old school knuckle dragger tool that will likely get you up and down anything reasonably moderate in the mountains.  Sum'tec reminds me of the Chacal and the Terro before it.  Both were very capable tools on ice and alpine mixed.  No flies on any of the old style three.

And I remember a time when I thought a Nomic was going to be too light.

Winters coming!

Alien boots for sale?

 I still have a pair of size 29 Alien 1.0s  I'd like to sell.   Still pretty much new.  I used them one long day in Cham.  My feet paid the price.   No booting in them.     Just too narrow for my feet but I sure wish they weren't.  $470 for the boots with a new and spiffy pair of the Lycra gaiters included.   I'll pay the postage in the US.    This could be a real score for some wanting an extremely lwt boot that skis really well. 

What's up?

The last time I wrote seriously here was in 2015/2016.  

I had left Chamonix in the Spring of 16 burnt out and sick.  I had bailed on a 6 week pre paid trip less than 3 weeks in.  Heart breaking for me.  But my heart, soul just weren't into it.  I needed a change in life style.

Buy the Fall of 2016 we had sold our home of 25 years and moved 500 miles south west to the Idaho desert.   No real snow close to speak of ( really Rainier and Alpental were close) and what therefor snow  is goes fast in the Spring.  I am close to the Sawtooths, and the Tetons.  Sun Valley is just up the road.   Haven't been.   And we are close to where I grew up as a kid, or at least closer than the Cascades. 

Moving was wonderful change of place and pace for our family.  The family grew by 5 more horses on the way.  For a total of 6.  The new 5 all under 4 years old then.  Now we ride them all.   We adding acres of hay to nurture, cut and bail twice a year, water to run during the irrigation season, May to November. and horses to feed every day, twice a day.

I got busier than I ever thought possible.  But no skiing, no climbing and not riding any bikes to speak of.  When I was riding it was a horse.  Something I had really missed from being a kid but just never realized how much.

Less than a year later (Spring of 2017)  my wife got in a horse wreck riding in a remote section of the Snake River canyon.  A badly broken the pelvis the result.  A harrowing day followed with a life flight at the end of it.  Two surgeries and a month in the hospital and then months of rehab followed.

Almost  a year to date (Spring of 2018) I broke my pelvis but thankfully not as bad.  And I was "lucky" enough to do it in our arena, a few feet from the back door on our house.  No surgery but again months of rehab.   Tracy likes to refer to it as pay back for not taking better care of her the first time around :)   Truthfully? Knowing what a broke pelvis is like now....I should have been a lot nicer and way more helpful! 

And you thought climbing was dangerous?

Today were are both back on our bikes and running again.  Life is good.   And I feel like writing again with new adventures just around the corner coming up.  

I get an occasional question  here on the blog.  They always surprise me.  I really thought Cold Thistle  would just cease to exist.   I have only ever written about what interested me.  If anyone else found it helpful or entertaining that too generally just surprised me.  Eventually a few folks saw what I was doing and spun their own web and most of them were doing it better with some rational behind it besides "just for fun".  Good for them!

I had a question on skimo race suits today.  Which I actually know very little about.  But I have two of them and I like to use them on occasion.   You can search that topic here but what I have is a Dynafit suit and a Camp suit.  The Camp is 8 years old now and the Dynafit almost 6 I think.  Likely made in the same factory but also slightly different.  Both are good from my limited use.

If I were looking for a new one today I'll head to: Men's Race Suits (skimo.co) 

They'll answer most any question you can ask and should be able to sort you out quickly.

Race suits are an acquired taste.  But once you try one, you'll likely know pretty quickly if it is for you or not.  The cost seemed a lot of money at the time.  But I've also got a good deal of use out of them and will continue to for some time yet.  Money well spent for me.   If you wear Lycra on a bike you are  probably doomed to own one.  And they look cool on any boot pack :)

So Skis?  Yep I am excited about a new ski that I can find little to no info on.

I have been a big fan of Dynafit since the TLT5.  Most of the skis I do use are still Dynafit.  There are 2 dozen pairs of skis in my shop, many still unmounted.   I just slowed down mounting and testing once I found a couple of skis I really liked and was writing less.   But may be I am just a hoarder?!  I had a chance to go to Las Lenas late summer of 2015.   And lucky enough to snag a pair of early Dynafit Denalis to take along.  I simply loved the ski.  There on a mostly Spring corn or glare ice conditions.    I looked for the ski on sale the next summer and was able to buy a couple of spare pair, cheap.  But still skiing on my original pair that have been drilled twice.  The early word came down that the Denali was breaking and was going to be discontinued and then replaced.  I thought bummer!  At least we'll get another ski like it.  The replacement was called the Dhaulagiri and bright pumpkin orange in color.  

The 176 Denali weighted in at 2# 12oz for one ski.

The 177 Dhaulagiri was @ 3# even for one ski.

Your probably asking, "why do I care?" by now.  You may not but here is why it interests me.

Enter the new Black Light 95.

The Black Light 178 weights in at the same old 2#12oz for one ski  or 1247gr. in my 178cm length.

 

All these skis are/were '95 plus under foot  I found the Denali and amazing all mountain ski.  Back country, touring, even lift skiing.  Amazing on ice and hard snow.  Good for the width in soft.  I really like it.  And have yet to break a pair.  The  Dhaulagiri is virtually the same ski as the Denali for side cut and rocker, "I think",  but I have yet to ski them.   The plan was I would mount them after I broke my current Denali.  Not happened yet.

The '95 Black light  I have to assume was a replacement for the Denali/Dhaulagiri size touring ski.   It is a slightly different shape and rocker.  And will obviously ski a little longer.  But a 177 aint gonna ski very "long" at any time.   Either way I wanted a pair.  Just wasn't willing  to fork out $750 for the experience.  As I said I have plenty of skis.  BackCountry.com was running them on sale this week.  $599 for a pair.  I bought in.

Dynafit Blacklight 95 Ski - 2022 (backcountry.com)

       

The Black Light I'll mount with race bindings and ski hard.   Should be fun to give some feed back once I get them on snow.  

Skis?  I am still looking for the magic ski that rules them all for my purposes :)  The stoke is back!

    

It's still Fall. Time to start dreaming!

 

Hello World!

Sledge sunglesses by Tifosi?

    -click on the photos to get a full size version-

My environment has changed a good bit in the last couple of years.     I live in an area now that gets 210+ days a year of sun and 82 days of precipitation.   It is a desert.    Beautiful as it is here the barren land and glare here are both rough on the eyes.

We moved here from a environment of 205 sunny days  and some kind of precipitation, on average, 173+ days per year.   Needless to say there was a lot of green :)

With a enough green in the environment light colored glasses are usable even with blue eyes that are more prone to bright light damage.

If you have read through CT it is likely obvious I own and use lot of different sun glasses.   Skiing, climbing, on a horse or bike, or just in the field,  I literally don't leave the house without a pair of high quality sun glasses on or stashed on my person.  

I rate my own glasses two ways.  Sun protection and eye protection.   On a tight single track or a fast road bike decent I want eye protection.   On a horse here in the desert I want eye protection from the blowing sand and dirt.   Shooting?  Eye protection is mandatory as a safety concern.

Enter Tifoi's newest sunglass, the "Sledge".    Or maybe better described as a "google"?   In the last few years any number of sunglass companies have enlarged their lens to almost the size of a small pair of ski goggles.    The Sledge is one of them  and it was designed ground up specifically for cycling.   And they work extremely well there.  Great protection and most importantly great vision with the super large lens.  There are no blind spots with the Sledge on a bike.  If you have ever been hunched over for hours on aero bars looking through the frames (not the lens) of a poorly designed sun glass frame you know the pain.   That is not a Sledge problem.   Ever done that quick lane change and snapped your head left for a second to check oncoming and not have a clear view of what's coming because of a bad frame/lens design?!

I wanted the Sledge in the darkest lens they had available.  Which is a mirrored gray.  And it is dark (3).  Good enough for the bright summer days here.   But it was the clear and intermediate lens that got my attention for every day use in less harsh conditions.

I have a couple pair of clear lens glasses that I use as safety glass for shooting or crashing through the brush.   If I am weed wacking or mowing the lawn  I use a sun glass of some sort as a "safety glass".    But typically none of them offer the eye coverage and protection of the Sledge.  

The lens come as filter rated clear is a 0, the intermediate lens is a 2 and the gray mirrored version a 3.  All tucked into a handy carrying case.

The last time I had an eye injury was from a shard of ice while climbing.   It actually cut my cornea from a pick placement mid lead .  From then on I have generally climb with a visor attached to my helmet.  A eye injury in the middle of a week long climbing trip was not something I want to ever repeat.   Ice climbing is  a place the typical sun glass might be too dark or too light or simply not offer enough protection all the while guaranteed to fog up on you.   I like having multiple len shades to choose from and good venting.

The Sledge has great venting.  I've had no fogging even when just working while stationary wearing  them during 80F temps and 70% humidity and sweating badly.    On a bike...I don't think you'd ever have a problem.  Ice climbing?   I still need to check out.

The company spiel?

Grilamid TR 90 frames.   My Dynafit ski boots are made of some sort of Grilamid.  I have yet to break any of them.  Not without trying!   :)

Polycarbonate lens...tough stuff.  Ballistics tough.
100% UVA and UV protection
Hydrophilic rubber on the frames that gets stickier as you sweat
Lens are coated to reduce eye strain

[b]and a lifetime guarantee against defects[/b]

Sold in four colors, you’ll have the choice of Crystal Orange with a Clarion Blue lens, Crystal Red with a Clarion Yellow lens, Matte Black with a Smoke lens, or Matte White with a Smoke lens – all of which are shatter proof and provide 100% UV protection.

May be the best thing about the Tifosi Sledge from my point of view is the price....$80. MSRP     I am way over what most are asking as the going rate for a decent pair of sunglasses these days @ $200+.  The Sledge is my first pair of Tifosi.   I am impressed.  They won't be my last pair of the brand.

Rethinking tech Bindings?

The most difficult lines I have skied have all been in lwt "race level" Tech bindings.    The story linked below isn't the first time I have heard of a major failure on a tech binding toe while in use.    

Y'all be careful out there!

"How a Close Call in La Grave Changed My Thoughts About Bindings" 

Gear failure is part of the risk we accept as skiers—so how do we stay safe?

https://www.powder.com/gear-locker/how-a-close-call-in-la-grave-changed-my-thoughts-about-bindings/

The top three Arcteryx Cold Weather Synthetic jackets?

The top 3 Arcteryx cold weather jackets?

• I'm well into the process of wearing them out                 
• Fit: True to size
• Size Bought: large in the Kappa and SV, XL in the SL (all seem to have a similar  fit in those sizes)                   

Unusual review for me.

I was looking for the warmest jacket I could find with literally some of the best cold weather climbing jackets hanging in my gear room now. That included both the Arcteryx Kappa and a Fission SL. The list got one more this winter with the Fission SV. I ordered up new versions of each from BC. Tried them all on and kept the SV. The others went back...nothing new there from what I already had.

A life style new to me, but for the last 6 months I've been getting up just prior to dawn, rain, shine or snow to feed livestock for the last 6 months. One of the coldest winters on record here.   Going on 60 days at or below freezing now.  The Kappa, a trusted friend for winter climbing in the Alps and Canada wasn't warm enough most days early and late. The Fission SL, the "go to" hard core winter climbing coat, wasn't up to the task when the wind started blowing @ -25F any time of day. Mind you both of those Arcteryx jackets are really good cold weather pieces! But this is an honest comparison made by wearing all three day after day of multiple sub zero weeks this winter. The SV is slightly longer, sheds wind much better than the other two and because of both the length and wind resistance, it is noticeably warmer. The double chest pockets are handier if required. I now know why you see this jacket on a lot of full time ski instructors in the Rocky Mtn States. Not seen a warmer jacket that can take a real beating (day in and day out on the ski hill or in the barn) and still do the job just as well at the end of the Season as the beginning. If you really need a cold weather jacket the SV is worth the extra price compared to the Kappa for warmth IMO.  Kappa is a taped Goretex product but not warrantied to be water "proof".   Although feature to feature IMO the Kappa is a better buy if it is warm enough for you.  And if you don't need fully taped and water proof Goretex.  Never needed Goretex frankly other than rain gear but have found the water proof layer really nice when it has been needed here.   Goretex was not something I bought the SV for however.  And would now just for the extra protection.    The Fission SL (fully water proof  Goretex as well) is a great climbing jacket for warmth and weight. But I find it hard to justify the price when compared to the other two. For a climbing parka and really cold dry occasions (think of missing the Tram mid winter on the Midi) my impression is you can do better for warmth and weight (short of snow cave living) by going to one of the better down jackets intended for the same use. Still not a big fan of the SV's fashion styling ( still undecided if I like the collar/hood design or not).  OK I'd will admit I wish the collar was higher".  Glad all the SV jacket has a dbl zipper because when it is not really cold, the jacket is too long and too warm.  When it is really cold and windy the length is perfect :)  The SV is now the only COLD WEATHER jacket I have hanging in our mud room getting daily use. And it is THE jacket I grab when I want to be warm and protected from the weather/elements on foot, on a horse or on a exposed 4 wheeler. Given the choices in cold weather jackets I have available that is saying a lot. It is still not the jacket I would take climbing. It is too heavy and frankly not cut for climbing. Kappa and SL are both lighter and cut to easily climb technical ground in. But the Fission SV is the one jacket I wish I had when I really need a warm jacket. Simply because it is the warmest most weather resistant synthetic insulation I own.

I like the snap on the hem and zipper of all three jackets.  Not a fan of the big toothed zipper used although it does work well but hard to get started sometimes.  I have to take my time and be careful.  Never a good situation when it required for a piece of my climbing kit.  Cuffs are dialed!   But also could be done better with just elastic like the Atom Series.    Hoods as expected, are exceptional with or without a helmet.  External pockets?  Not so much thought there was my opinion.  They work..enough said.  Dbls always better than one for me.  Internal pockets on all of them are awesome!   All three are solid cold weather jackets.  Kappa is the lightest least bulky, easiest to wear.  The Fission SL is warmer, slightly bulkier, more wind proof "perhaps" and costs amore than dbl what you can buy a Kappa for.  But it is water proof :)  The Fission SV is longer, more weather proof and WARMER than either.  It has a funky hood and collar design.  Both are good, neither is perfect.   SV does have double breast pockets....which I really like.   Cost is more than a Kappa, and less than the SL.   Best to find any of them on sale in late Spring or early Summer!

Height: 6'1"

Weight: 197lbs

Reel Rock #11

I was lucky enough recently to preview all of the RR #11 Tour.  Some amazing climbing and even more amazing people profiled.  Well worth a look see,  A little digging on the Internet will give you  a number of options for viewing.   From a guy who use to really look forward to the Warren Miller ski films Real Rock Productions have taken over a good part of that yearly stoke.

Hard not to be inspired by the footage and the climbers involved no mater what part of the climbing world you are involved in.

Petzl's new tools?!

It only took one bad experience for me to want a ski specific axe.  Dropping into a gully late in the afternoon and then running into hard ice after the surface slide off  frankly scared me.  Watching everyone pull out their single aluminum tool while either on skis or a snow board as I began setting screws was a little more hair ball than I really appreciated.  Wouldn't have taken much on anyone's part that afternoon to really fook things up beyond repair. 

Later that week I went to Snells and bought two Sum'tec's   One for me and one for my long time ski partner.  I really, really like the tool.  Hammer is great for setting pro.  Pick and weight is good in hard ice conditions.  The same kind of ice that scares me as a skier.

A pair of them actually make a decent pair of alpine ice tools.  But using them sure made me want a pair of chopped  up and a little less technical Nomics even more.  Easy design transition if you have any imagination.   Take a chop saw to a Quark would do the trick as well.  Thankfully Petzl and Ueli Steck saved most of us the cash and trouble of finding a chop saw..

Two new tools from Petzl this year.  The new "Sum'tec" is just a toned down Nomic.  The lwt skimo axe, The Gully,  handy and lwt if you aren't a chuckle head like me and get yourself into trouble on occasion. 

The new Petzl tools should be available by Late July '17.

Ueli Steck's previous PROTOTYPE lwt technical tool below.  And still the version I would REALLY like to own.

The new Sum'tec: 480g or less in a 55cm in length.

The "Gully"... 280g, 45cm.

Steck ,  Kilian and a few others  have been playing with the proto-types
of both tools for awhile now. A pair of them weighs about the same  as one Quark.

"My big day is always tomorrow"

Colin Haley on gear

"Second, anyone who tells you that gear doesn’t matter is clueless (at least in alpine climbing). I’m 100% certain that Rob and I were carrying less total mass of material than any other roped ascent of the route. My ice axes, crampons and helmet are all significantly lighter than they were just three years ago, and massively lighter than the ice axes, crampons and helmets that Steve and Rolo had in 2001. My helmet is the lightest one on the market. My ice axes are Petzl prototypes which are noticeably lighter than Quarks, which are already some of the lightest technical ice axes on the market. My crampons are steel in front and aluminum in back, and connected by dyneema cord. We cut the leg loops off of our harnesses. Our cams were the new BD ultralights. Our ice screws were the aluminum Petzl Laser Speed Lights. Our carabiners and slings were certainly way lighter than the lightest ones available in 2001. We climbed on a single 7.7mm rope, and didn’t bring a second one. I wore single boots on both ascents – the La Sportiva Batura, of which the current version is significantly lighter than the first version that came out in 2007. Yeah, we brought sleeping bags, they weighed 700g each. Yeah, we brought foam pads, but have you seen how light the NeoAir pads are? We had a Jetboil Sol, which is much lighter than the original Jetboil, which already was much lighter than whatever stove Steve and Rolo had in 2001 (probably a white gas stove)."


It is a good read:

http://www.colinhaley.com/infinite-spur-laps/

DRU mixed with a Petzl ad

Petzl rumors.....new tool?!

So what version of the Ueli Steck lwt axe will we see at OR this winter?

I'm betting on the Sum-Tec/Nomic combo versions in the picture just below that he has been using for a while now.  But you never know....he has so many as the 2nd picture shows.

Lots of shots on video here of what I'd guess we'll see at OR.

http://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/82-summits-in-62-days-ueli-steck-tests-his-endurance-in-the-alps-part-1-%7C-presented-by-goal-zero/603993



More here from a previous comment.. in 2013.  Be fun to see what Petzl decided they could produce.

https://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2013/11/stecks-custom-ice-tool-super-nice-super.html



YEA!  They did it!   Took awhile but Petzl showed both a lwt skimo axe and a new lwt "Nomic" as the revamped "Sum'tec" @ OR in SCL 2017.   Makes sense because the new Sum'tec  was so easy to make up with parts they already had on hand at Petzl.

Carhartt Crowley Hoody VS the Arcteryx Gamma MX Hoody.......seriously?

Let's be honest here.  If I can with a straight face make any comparison to a $119 insulated soft shell,  and a $350 insulated soft shell things are really messed up some where in the outdoor industry food chain.  (prices quoted are typical msrp retail pricing)  If you are just into labels...and not performance you can stop reading here :).

Lets start with what I still consider the gold standard of insulated soft shells, the Arcteryx Gamma MX @ $350 US $ currently.

From the Arctery web site:

"Breathable, wind-resistant, lightly insulated hooded jacket constructed with Fortius 2.0 textile for increased comfort and mobility. Gamma Series: Softshell outerwear with stretch | MX: Mixed Weather."

"This wind-resistant, breathable hoody is perfect for alpine specialists looking for enhanced mobility. A tough, highly wind-resistant outer face sheds moisture and a light fleece backer adds warmth while wicking away moisture.

Helmet Compatible Stormhood™

Helmet Compatible Stormhood™ The Arc'teryx helmet compatible Stormhood™ is designed to provide the ultimate protection in cold or wet weather. The laminated brim and hood adjusters secure tightly and deliver full coverage without restricting movement or visibility.

Key Advantages

• Laminated brim
• Adjustable hood cinch cords
• Tall collar for full coverage"

Honestly the last time I can remember using a insulated soft shell (Gamma MX) for climb was March of 2009 on Curtain Call with Jack.  It was cold outside, little wind and the ice wet.  The Gamma MX was a perfect choice in jackets for the day.  Jack was wearing a Mammut version of a similar fabric and pattern.  Cutting edge and good gear for 7 years ago,.

Jack's Mammut

My original Canadian made Gamma MX

Mind you I still use a lot of "soft shells" just nothing like the Gamma MX that is insulated for my own climbing climbing.   I do how ever use a number of lwt insulated garments as "climbing sweaters".  The entire Arcteryx Atom lineup has been good.  The choice in Arcteryx Atom garments depending on temps.  Or the RAB Xenon are some all time favorites for cold weather winter climbing.  I really like the Pertex shell RAB uses.  But stretchable shells that offer good durability,  water resistance and weather protection from Westcomb, Arcteryx and Patagonia are my likely choices these days for climbing or skiing over a insulation with rare exceptions.

So back to the Gamma MX.  My first MX cost me the then seemingly outrageous price of $300 back in 2003 iirc.   So up front the garments last.  This one was passed on to a buddy working on a ranch.  He used it as his every day jacket rain or shine till seams started exploding.  It then went back to Arcteryx for repair and he is still using it today.

The reason I don't use insulated soft shells for climbing now?  They are certainly warm and wind resistant but I've not found one that breaths well enough to climb in.  The criticism continues even with  the newest Gamma MX. 

The fit of the Arcteyx version is excellent for me.  High marks there for detailing, pattern, fit and finish.  Just as I should be in a $350 dollar outdoor jacket.  The Gamma MX is no longer made in Canada and the fabric not as heavy/warm/windproof as the originals but still a good weight IMO and very stretchy.   Decent wet weather protection for a while anyway and they dry quickly when wet.   No question this thing is durable.  Most will give I away or recycle it on Ebay long before they wear one out.  High praise there.

My take on the Gamma MX today?  Not warm enough to ski in alone mid winter.  Not warm enough for most cold weather outdoor actively unless you are moving quickly.  If you are working hard the Gamma MX doesn't breath well enough to justify the weight or durability.  The Atom LT is a better option for me while climbing.  It breaths much better than a Gamma MX.    They are a straight across trade for me in similar weather conditions.  The Atom LT is lighter and breaths better.  The Gamma MX is more as in, way, way more durable in use.

Some folks love climbing in an insulated soft shell.   There are some great ones out there.  The Neoshell versions really impressed me and still do for over all weather protection.  And nothing wrong with the Gamma MX.  As I said earlier I still think it is the gold standard of the category.  Neoshell is the only thing I have seen that enhances a good insulated soft shell. 

So how does the Carthartt Crowley jacket figure into the technical soft shell mix?
It reminds me at least in feel, warmth and weight of the very best of the Neoshell versions of insulated soft shell.

But first two important numbers....a Gamma MX, size  XL and comparable with a slightly roomier fit, the Carhartt Crowley in Large.

Gamma MX Hoody is 1# 13oz. and $350.
Crowley Hoody is 2# 3oz and $120.

The weight difference is noticeable.  So is the durability and wind protection advantage going to the Crowley on both points.   Think of the MX as a bespoke sport coat for a Fall or Spring night on the town.  The Crowley as a nice fitting leather motorcycle jacket for protection on your sport bike.

The Crowley I might delegate as a full time mid winter ski jacket with a slick insulated layer under it.  The MX makes a good piece of kit on the hill if you are moving or the temps mild.

You might wonder why I am so interested in a insulated soft shell now.  For the last few months I have gotten up just prior to dawn and put on what ever I thought would keep me warn in the coldest part of the day as I walk a few hundred yards to a barn to move/feed 100#  hay bales around outdoors, no matter the weather, clear, rain or  now snow prior to sunrise.  Interesting to me what I have learned from the experience that applies to my other outdoor  interests and may be yours.  Wrestling with 100+ lbs of dead weight that is hard to get a handle on first thing in the morning is like having to lead a hard pitch first thing after a bad bivy.  Rather unpleasant.   What have I learned?   I really want warm feet walking through thigh high wet grass.  I want a decent hood on the jacket (wind). And the least amount of clothes to keep me warm and no bind while working.  Pretty much what I want on that hard mixed pitch after a bad bivy.   Jacket has to be TOUGH and abrasive resistant to survive even a week around the horses and barn.  If the jacket collects hay on sticky fabric (inside or out) it won't be comfortable for long.   From my memory snow seems to stick in a similar fashion.  Insulated soft shells are the perfect barn coat or at least could be.  Price has been a big deterrent for me in such an abusive environment.  The best materials are water proof (Neoshell).  All the best soft shells in this category are pretty abrasive resistant.  The high quality insulated versions might well be warm enough 99% of the time in the "barn" environment even mid winter.

I was so convinced that the Gamma MX was the answer to the "barn coat" that I went to Ebay and bought one "new with tags".   Then before it could arrive I found the Carhartt Crowley version in the local Carhartt store and bought that as well.  Hard  to resist the low buy in $ amount truthfully.   The Ebay price on the Gamma MX and the retail price on the Carhartt added together got me into both jackets for a good bit less than full retail on a Gamma MX.  If nothing else it was a nice score I figured.

Two weeks later I am more impressed with the Carhartt than ever.  Enough so to add a rare new gear review here :)

Carhartt Hood?  Works with a climbing helmet no problem.  Big enough and decent vision.  Hood has a simple draw string system and a good chin protector on the high zip front with a pull tag.  All the pocket zippers also have the same nice pull tags.

Cuffs?  Tapered cuff Velcro closure.
Pockets?  One zippered chest on the outside, two zippered hand pockets on the sides.  Pockets are deep unlikely you'll loose much from them even with the zipper down.  One Velcro tabbed drop pocket internally and two that are not sealed that are unintentional pockets....that work good for something like sun glasses or a light glove/hat.   All the pockets are a light woven fabric lined to enhance breathability and lower bulk is my take on it.  The plan seems to work.
Nice gusset around the hemline.  Draw string there as well.

Bottom line here?  Even for twice the price the Crowley is a damn nice jacket.  At $120 it is a steal.  Equally at home on lift served skiing or a cold mixed route that requires some chimney stuffing.  Likely more than one Harley rider will wear it on his bike.  Basic black for color has some appeal.    Nice jacket to haul on your next plane flight to where ever, just to maintain the image.  And it is comfy.  Good enough for a dinner date, beer and a movie  And it makes a decent barn jacket that I won't ever worry about trashing.  It is a insulated soft shell jacket I would actually take on quick shots of alpine mixed climbing.  That is HIGH praise from me.

This jacket was a really fun find.  I've put some decent mileage on it doing everything BUT outdoor pursuits unless you consider riding a horse something exciting.  For the most part I just find it a quick way to get really dirty.  So far all that has spit shined up with just a wet wash cloth on the Carhartt Crowley.  Be curious to see to it looks this time next year.  Don't imagine there will be any surprises the way Carhartt builds clothing.

Best $120 I have spent in a long time.  The new Gamma MX I ordered?  It is here,  still got the hang tags on it.   Still one hell of a jacket even at $350.  I'll be saving it for spring skiing :)