The Non Insulated Soft Shells (part 3 of 4)

Jack on Curtain Call in a Mammut soft shell.

It is kinda funny for me to sit down and write these reviews never knowing what the end result of all the testing will be.  I take notes while or immediately after using them.  But past that I don't keep track until I finally sit down to put it all together at my desk.   In some cases it might be months later.  In this case it has been on and off use for well over a year.  I do know that if I have a week off to climb and am out every day I gravitate to the gear I like the best.  That is most often defined by the gear I actually notice the least while  I am actually climbing.  If I am wet or cold or over heated I notice. The best gear you never notice, it just works.  Better not to notice.   

 

 

The Non insulated soft shells:

 

 

NW Alpine Big Four Jacket $235 17.5oz / 524 Lg

 

"Made from premium Schoeller Dryskin the Big Four Jacket offers excellent breathability and 3XDry Technology ensures superior water resistance."

 

This is a soft shell you will not notice.  Which is a good thing.  I also really like the price point.  Excellent hood, good length on the arms to keep the glove jacket gap closed.  Good length on the body to keep the jacket tucked into your harness.  The material is seemingly light weight so it doesn't get all bunched up under your harness.  It breaths well when you are really active and is wind proof enough that you aren't scrambling to get a belay jacket on at every belay to conserve body heat. It is a really simple climbing specific jacket.  NW Alpine is a new start up company that just keeps getting better with every production run and every product they offer.  Only down side on this one for me is the forearms are a little tight on their pattern.  But there is plenty of stretch in the current Schoeler Dryskin fabric they are using so the pattern wasn't a deal breaker for me.  One of the three or four "best" for climbing out of the 11 jackets I have included.  High praise when you look at the other price points.  One external chest pocket and two internal stretch glove pockets, one good sized hood with easy adjustment.  Two sleeves attached and Velcro adjustable cuffs.  All the stuff you need and none of the fluff you don't.  Nice bit of actual climbing kit.  There is so little of it available these days!

 

 

 

Rab Scimitar $190 22.7oz / 644g XL

"The Scimitar is constructed using 2 of our own Matrix DWS fabrics, these are non-membrane, stretch, double weave, soft shell fabrics which are highly wind and water resistant and come with a factory DWR treatment. The main body is Matrix DWS in 182g/m weight and the darker panels are a tougher fabric in 275g/m weight for abrasion resistance"

 

This is another soft shell specifically designed for climbing. Good hood design, certainly one of the best I have seen.   But it doesn't completely cover the vents on my Petzl Meteor helmet.  So while good it is not what I would consider a great hood.  But again it is "good".

 

"The Scimitar is a medium cut and has adjustable cuffs, hem and hood, plus hand-warmer and chest pocket plus there's a storm flap behind the 2-way front zip."

 

I might speculate on that "medium cut" comment.  Mine is a US XL  It is cut slim by any standard.  Tighter than the Arcteryx cut for sure.  I cna use a large Arcteryx for example.  I like the Scimitar and the cut except for one issue....again tight forearms.  So tight in fact that with nothing but a short sleeved T shirt on underneath this one I can easily tighten the seams just below the elbow with just a couple of unweighted wrist curls at my desk.  On a climb it was annoying and worse yet tiring.  On the upper arm even my puny re-attached biceps almost strain the seams there with just the same T shirt.  Add a mid layer and I'd be, well,  I'd be really unhappy.  I like to climb in as little clothing as possible but the Scimitar limits me to a R1 hoody at most under it. A Sherpa Merino wool hoody is even better.  That is good part of the year but is limiting as a winter ice climbing jacket.  You had better be able to run fast and jump high to (keep warm) and use this jacket a lot.  The up side?  The sleeves are plenty long and make the glove- jacket connection easily sealed and secure.  That is done well.  The heavier weigh fabric is on the outside of the forearms and upper shoulder and on the point of both hips.  This is a jacket to do some hard mixed in and not shy away from the off width groveling.  The jacket can take it and come out shinning still in one piece.  Plenty of stretch in the material as well so you likely not know you have it on while you sweat bullets on a crux.  I found the breathability really good in this one and the water resistant decent.  Water resistant enough to be a really good water fall cragging jacket even when it is wet.    It is not a rain jacket but it BREATHS really well and is good wind protection.  I have no doubt it was designed as a climbing specific jacket.  I really liked the fact that the extra material at the point of the hip will save this jacket some holes when you have a full rack of screws on your harness.  The hood is decent but could be a little better for coverage.  The arms are pretty tight...almost unusable for me.  But the stretchy material allows a little adaptation.  If the sleeves were a tiny bit bigger I would use this one a lot more.  If it fits you well I suspect you'd love it.

 

 

Patagonia Knifeblade on Carlsberg

And yes it is true..I have four orange soft shells each from different manufactures.  So keeping pictures sorted correctly is tough!

 

 

 

Patagonia Knifeblade $350. 20.6oz / 586g XL

"Polartec Power Shield Pro fabric with a tricot backing, combines lightweight weather resistance and incredible breathability."

 

This is a third jacket here designed specifically for climbing.  Mine is an XL.  It showed up here when I was 50# heavier and needed a XL!  Thankfully not an XL today if the sizing/pattern is reasonable.  At least I can generally wear and climb in anything now that is a US Large with no complaints. (I know that might be hard to believe as I write all this negative stuff about some really nice soft shell jackets!)  Reading another online review last year I caught their reviewer raving about this jacket.  At the time I was NOT impressed by the jacket or the review.  

 

And I should have been.  Jacket is climbing specific.  It is a pull over which I really like because of the simplicity.  But even back then the thing fit me like a sack.  Patagonia is known (at least known at Cold Thistle and my closet as a terrible fit)  as having some really funky patterns and sizing.  The Knifeblade has really long arms and a decently long body.  I think back now and realise that it was the first jacket I had seen (or would review) that had I'll call a "technical climbing specific" fit.  The Gamma MX had been my go to soft shell and while a great jacket for climbing it didn't have extra long arms or a extra long body as some of the newer jackets do now. 

 

Some how it seemed to work fine climbing though.  I never knew I was missing anything...not sure I am convinced now!

 

So when the written review I saw didn't mention either..long sleeves or long body I was thinking the author had simply been bought off by the "free" gear.  Call me cynical as I am still not totally clear on that.  But the Knifeblade jacket really is impressive in use.  See it in the store hanging on the rack or try one on and you may not think so.  I certainly didn't.

 

But given a chance in use, the Knifeblade really did shine though.  Remember I don't want to notice my gear?  I never noticed the Knifeblade from day one.  Day one for me and a Knifeblade was a nasty bit of water fall ice that was falling down around me.  1st pitch was sketchy but seemed doable.  2nd pitch plan was make it to a fixed pin at 60' and hopefully at least one decent screw on vertical ice.  I clipped the pin (actual BD knifeblade of course) while water was running down every where around me.  I wasn't sure my partner would have ice to climb on in a few minutes.  I jerked on the sling and out came the pin.  Quick! Bail time before I fall off!  Down climbing that disintegrating mess was the best lead I had last year.  Best lead in some time.   I had most of these soft shells I am writing about with me for that trip.  I ended up climbing a lot in the Knifeblade after failing on that climb.  It doesn't look like much.  Fit is dismal but the basics are all there and the fabric does everything they claim.  I like this light weight a lot.  It became my favorite cragging jacket of the bunch.

 

 

 

       

Outdoor Research Axiom $375 13.6oz / 386g Lg (soft shell?)*

"Outdoor Research jacket is made with premium 3-layer 20D Gore-Tex® ACTIVE SHELL fabric to block out rain, snow and sleet while letting body vapor escape to keep you dry inside."

 

Ya, OK, this one I *think* Outdoor Research actually lists as a hard shell. But trust me on this..if the Patagonia Knifeblade is a soft shell the Axiom is as well.  The Knifeblade uses Polartec Power Shield Pro.  The Axiom uses a even lighter weight  3-layer 20D Gore-Tex® ACTIVE SHELL fabric.  In hand and actual feel there is a noticeable but very little difference.  In use the materials seem to me every bit as capable as its competitor.  Although the Polartec material offers more stretch.  The Axiom has plenty to spare I think.  Worth noting here I am making a side by side comparison of the Knifeblade that I really like and the Axion.  I think the pattern, fit and detailing is better on the Axiom.  Mine is a size Large.  And while the Knifeblade XL fits me like a sack, I can't use a Large Knifeblade from Patagonia.  The Large is just too tight over all.  remember I said Patagonia sizing is "off" for me.  Good example here on the Knifeblade.  If Goldilocks's ice climbed she would like the Axiom, because it is "just right".  I like it too.  

 

The Axiom's sleeves have the extra length required.  I know long wonder if my arms are deformed with the Axiom as I can actually bend my elbows with a layer or two on under this shell.  (soft or hard?!)  And a trick Velcro closure on the cuff.  It really is "trick" and works better than most.  Simple but great design effort.  I like that the side pockets vent into the body of the jacket for ventilation if required.  I like the chest pocket.  And the length is long enough, but not too long to bunch up or get in the way without a harness.  As a shell this was one of the favorites last year comparing it to all the shells we (Doug Lee and I) tested.  It likely would have been a favorite for ice cragging as well...if I had bothered to take it.  It was a "hard shell"  after all!  So it stayed home on several trips this spring.  I have no clue what the durability of the Goretex  ACTIVE SHELL fabric is but as a cross over from soft shell to a full hard shell level of weather protection this is a stellar jacket.  It has the only hood that rivals (and may be betters) the Arcteryx hood pattern domination.  For anyone that wants to really cut weight (13.6 oz in a Large) and  needs full weather protection this is the only jacket in the review that will do everything I asked of a good climbing jacket and has sizing through out the pattern that is "normal".  I'd give my eye teeth to have this one in a stretchy and insulated  Neoshell for the added warmth.   Lacking that option I can certainly live with this one as my only climbing "soft shell".

 

I didn't put these jackets (all eleven of them) in any specific order when I started writing them up.  I just searched out Internet links as I wrote and dropped them in cut and paste.  This is the 10th jacket I have reviewed in detail now on this set of blogs.  And I find it really interesting that of the Axiom is the ONLY jacket that fulfilled all my requirements for a ice climbing jacket.  Sure there are things I'd like to see changed (or better yet a 2nd jacket in this style offered with insulated Neoshell, like the Zion) but the pattern, detailing and hood are so important.  Even the very best materials go to waste if you simply can't use the jacket off the rack to climb in because of bad design or pattern work.  When it all comes together perfectly, fabric and design) like it does on the Axiom, it becomes an easy choice.  The Axion ties with the Venta MX for #1 for the best of the bunch here.

  

Mammut Gipfelgrat Neoshell $450 (*discontinued) 29.5 oz / 822g Xl

"Lightweight layer of Polartec NeoShell; waterproof, windproof, and breathable"

 

Likely it was the Marmot Zion that made me think I could leap tall buildings with a single bound and defeat evil villains (big North Faces?) with only a casual glance.  Only the hood being unable to cover my super hero mask put an end to that thought with the Zion .  A few months later my one- off NWAlpine Neoshell actually had me thinking similar thoughts.  I got a Doctor's note to get me out of that one.  But may be it was the bumble bee look that robbed my super hero powers with the NWApine jacket and not just being scared!?  Because the NWAlpine is an almost perfect jacket.  Almost. 

 

The Mammut Gipfelgrat (thanks forthe spell check!)  Neoshell how ever brought all the super hero crap back to the surface of my warped little brain.  I forget the cold, the aching feet and the lack of water and sleep.  Put me i my favorite Neoshell salopettes and a "perfect" Neoshell jacket and there is not reason for me NOT to climb every and any objective...anywhere!

 

The Gipfelgrat is obviously Neoshell.  But it is not like the Neoshell in the Westcomb Apoc jacket.  The  Gipfelgrat uses a heavier and more elastic material.  Call it tougher for sure when it comes to abrasion.  But the jacket is also heavier.  Twice and more the weight of the Axiom and no question if you are on sharp Chamonix or Alaskan range granite the Gipfeigrat will last longer.

It is water proof they say.  And I know it is very wind resistant.  Sleeves and cuffs are good to go.  Hood again is very good maybe not as good as the Axion and a step down from what Arcteryx does.  But not a big step.  It is a good hood.  There are under arm zips. 

 

Let me stop there for a moment.  Do the designers ever really look hard at the fabrics they use?  Here is a jacket in a mid weight Neoshell that really doesn't need pit zips imo.  And they could drop some weight.  Fully featured with pit zips sure.  But no outside chest pocket.  A little more effort on the design side would have had stolen the show here.

 

Back on track.  No chest pocket.on the outside but there is one on the inside.  All the zips are water proof.  It is a jacket that could take a serious alpine  climber could take some serious abuse in.

It is heavy at 29.5 oz.  But using the right clothing system might allow you to drop a mid layer here and  no other shell required.   But the Gipfelgrat is by far the heaviest jacket here.  Even a couple of ounces heavier than the actually insulated Marmot Zion in Neoshell.  The Zion and Gipfelgrat better compared as "full featured" jackets than to the NWAlpine Neoshell version which is 7oz lighter in Neoshell.  

 

My take, and I'll get into the idea deeper in the last part of this comparison coming up next, is Neoshell has yet to be fully utilised.

 

Easy for me to say as the Gipfelgrat has been discontinued in a Neoshell version and is now using one of the new Shoeller fabrics I believe.   Don't quote me on all of that just what I was told by a source at Mammut and have yet to verify.

 

Bottom line on the Gipfelgrat?  I spent a year trying to get one.  It may not say much to you but I don't spend that kind of time on a garment unless I think it has real value.  Perfect?  Nope.  It is too heavy and way over built imo. But the details and pattern are right.  Another one that is very close but just missed the boat by a few feet.  That said it is the one jacket here I would take on a multi-day alpine wall where multiple requirement are required of a good jacket.    The Axion ties with the Venta MX for #1 for the best of the bunch here.The Gipfelgrat is #3 in my comparisons.    

 

But I could make a case for any one of these 3 jackets as being my 1st choice of the eleven  depending on your own priorities.  They aren't the only jackets out there of this quality or with well thought features.  Look around, ask around.   Buy what best fits you and your needs and of course fits you wallet.

 

The Insulated Soft Shells (part 2 or 4)

Perfect conditions for a insulated soft shell.  I was using a Gamma MX here.

It was difficult to even start this commentary when you look at the eleven (11) jackets I am writing up.  My first thought was to do the group that I used the most and liked the best as climbing jackets.  I had assumed they would all be in one category.  Again a bit of an eye opener to me that wasn't  the situation.   I like jackets in both the insulated and uninsulated categories.  And I interchange them freely in similar weather conditions.  As I said previous these are the jackets I hand picked as the best for my own use.  But even I am surprised just how good all of them are when you get down to the tiniest details.

Insulated:

Arcteryx Venta MX $450.00 22oz / 628g in a XL

The Venta MX is an interesting jacket.  Definitely more than the Gamma MX Series which I thought was a "heavy" soft shell to begin with.  Not heavy in weight but "heavy" as in warmth and very capable in every condition.  The Venta weighs in at 4+ oz less than the Gamma MX which was until very recently my Gold Standard in soft shells.

"This hooded soft-shell incorporates two weights of Windstopper for easy mobility and protection from the elements. Light, breathable Windstopper is used on the torso and underarms, while warmer, more durable, stretch Windstopper is used on the shoulders, hood, and back." 

Arc'Teryx designates jackets designed for more severe weather with SV.   The Venta MX is designed for more mixed conditions and uses the heavier Windstopper on the shoulders, hood, and back for weather protection, but a lighter weight Windstopper for the underarms and torso.

I don't think you can get a very good perspective on the SV/MX and LT designations from Arcteryx unless you use a number of their garments.  Atom SV and Atom LT insulated shells as an example.

I have been told by an industry insider that *windstopper* is simply Goretex that is not seam taped.  I don't know how accurate that is but the Venta acts like a Goretex hard shell when shedding rain.  It is good at it.  It is not the most breathable jacket in these tests.  But it does breath well and is the only jacket here that offers pit zips. (which, personal preference, I really don't like)  While I don't like a pit zip it does allow better ventilation if it is required to dump both heat and moisture.   Arcteryx has the fit and the hoods simply DIALED on all their garments for my own use and body size.  Every other manufacture plays a distant second fiddle here on both counts of pattern and hoods.  How good are they?  The clothing I climb the most in and have for a decade now are all Arcteryx!  I have a few other pieces of clothing that I use on a regular basis but no single company dominated my climbing wardrobe as Arcteryx does.  And I generally pay retail for it!

That said the Venta was not one of my least favorite garments of this comparison.  It is very, very good but the Goretex fabrics used just aren't up to the capabilities of the Neoshell imo.   At 22oz in a generous XL the Venta is the lwt (by 6oz or more) of the more burly shells with Neoshell.  But then the Neoshell really is water proof and, imo, breaths better in use.  I am cutting some fine hair here, and compared to NW Alpine, Marmot and Mammut Neoshells only the NW Alpine hits the same weight as the Venta.  But the NWAlpine version is a very simple and basically "stripped" alpine climbing jacket.  The Arcteryx Venta is a fully featured, state of the art jacket sewn with articulated patterning, and gusseted underarms and detailed by the best in the business.  The Venta is hard NOT to like.  It does stretch, no doubt there.  The top pockets can also ventilate the jacket and are placed exactly where I want them.  I do like the fabric style cuffs of the Gamma MX better than the Venta's

Velcro tab seal however.  The "brimstone" color is really bright.  I like it.  The retail price is also $450.  Right at the top of the food chain, where it should be. 

Bottom line...I have to admit the Venta is a damn nice jacket even at $450.  There are no flies on this garment.

Roger Strong is a industry sales and a Arcteryx and BD sponsored athlete. Their video covers the Venta MX features as well as anyone has for climbing climbing specific features.

                                         

 Arcteryx Gamma MX $345.00 24oz / 684g XL

I have experience with several generation of the Gamma MX now.  And although I don't use one now as much as I have in the past I could easily go back and make it (old or new) my primary climbing jacket.  The Gamma MX breaths well, is a very simple jacket to use.  The cuffs, hood and sizing are  seemingly designed specifically for climbing.

PolarTec Power Shield was the original material used.  That technology has been replaced it with a new more flexible material.  The added fleece face inside the jacket's arms make ti difficult to get on and off.   The new Fortius 2.0 synthetic fabric insulates better for warmth, dries quickly.  A  DWR coating allows the fabric to repel light moisture. 

"Articulated arms and a trim fit keep this mid weight layer close to the body without restricting movement when you're alpine climbing. More versatile than your base layer and more breathable than your storm shell, this jacket will be the one you live in the most, even if there's a little light precip falling from the dark clouds above."

Again the cut and sewing on the Arcteryx stuff is really, really good.  Better than anyone else in this comparison right now.  But again it is not the jacket I now choose to climb in.  However in the last decade the older (and maybe not as good) Gamma MX is the jacket I have climbed the most in.  The newest version is even better than the last.

Gamma MX will stand up to some tough mixed conditions.  I used one here as well. 

NW Alpine Big Four Jacket in Neoshell $375 22.6 oz / 640g Lg

The water-resistant, breathable, and wind-resistant Polartec Neo Shell fabric delivers the *protection* of a hard shell with the breathability, mobility and comfort of a soft shell.

NWAlpine Big 4 Neoshell

I had climbed and skied in a couple of Polartec Neoshell garments last winter prior to this one off  two piece set Bill at NWAlpine sewed up for me.

They garments used in the picture above while on Professors Gully was my first day in them.  The pair are a set of NWAlpiniust salopettes and a Big Four zip front shell jacket.  The Neoshell material used was supplied by Polartec, has a soft hand and a tiny bit of stretch.  The inner face of the fabric is a soft, short and plush.   I intentionally didn't seal the seams.  I was able to change the layering system I climb in by using a this Neopshell material.  That is a BIG change for me.  More about all of that in part 4 which will be Neoshell specific.

The Big Four Jacket is a light and minimalistic soft shell truly designed 100 percent with climbing in mind.   This one is made from a fairly heavy weight Neoshell, soft shell material.   The material is very similar to what Marmot used for their Zion Jacket, which is reviewed below.   The cut is long enough to efficiently stay under your harness and the sleeves are long enough to keep your wrists covered while your arms are above overhead. The jacket has one chest pocket and two internal stretch glove pockets.  There are no side pockets.  The forearms on this one are a little tight for me however.  I use it but the pattern could be better imo. As I mentioned...the Big Four is a simple, climbing specific design, with a well thought out and useful hood that a helmet will easily go under.  The second best hood design only behind Arcteryx imo.  The pattern of the jacket could use a little work yet but the price of the regular Big Four is really difficult to compete with.  Both are really good climbing jackets.   I haven't asked Bill @ NWAlpine if he plans of building the Neoshell version in any kind of numbers yet.  If he does this is a jacket you will really want to check out.

Marmot Zion Neoshell $385 27.5oz / 778g Lg

"The water-resistant, breathable, and wind-resistant Polartec Neo Shell fabric delivers the *protection* of a hard shell with the breathability and mobility of a soft shell."

Marmot doesn't say it but this one should be water proof with taped seams.  My call would be this is a truly "fully featured" jacket.  It is not quit as technical as the Arcteryx Gamma or Venta MX jackets but it is a darn nice jacket.  I really like how it fits and feels in my size large.  I don't remember if it was the Mammut or the Marmot Neoshell "soft shell's" that I first tried on locally.  May be it was the Marmot.  What I do remember thinking was, "this is the jacket that could change what I climb in for clothing."  And it was the jacket I REALLY WANTED wanted to use on a big alpine face.  If was the first jacket since the Gamma MX I'd used previously that I though might really get me back into a soft shell.  Mind you I wanted to be in a soft shell if they were light enough in weight and could keep me dry all the while breathing extremely well.  My previous experience with the Neoshell "hard shells" had convinced me Neoshell might actually make all that possible.   

Until actually seeing the Zion I had no clue the Neoshell process could be applied to any material.  Once that fact became obvious...all sorts of ideas started popping into my head for a new set of climbing clothing.  The Big Four jacket and NWAlpine Alpinist Salopettes were the first venture on the quest (this time) for a better set of alpine clothing. 

But with the Zion, one thing KILLS this jacket for me.  Everything from fit, cuffs pattern and feel are dang near perfect.  Easy even to find a color I like.  But the hood is terrible.  It simply does not fit a climbing helmet.  Worse yet is the fit is very close on a helmet as in "almost fits" so you might easily be convinced in a store.  But no way to zip up the jacket while using one.  Huge BUMMER here!   Glad I have the NW Alpine version to show me just how good the Neoshell would be in a climbing specific shell.  If you don't wear a helmet this would be a great jacket for almost any outdoor environment.

*Rab Vapour-rise Lite Alpine $175.00 * (*soft shell?) 11.7oz / 332g Lg

This one I am still not quit convinced is actually a soft shell.  But that is how RAB has labeled it so I have included it here.  If you haven't noticed it is also the lightest weight in ounces jacket I tested.  I have no doubt it can replace a number of the jackets listed but it won't be as durable.  It might well be warmer however and more breathable than many of them.  I'd call BS on the "soft shell claim because the Vapour-rise Lite is so similar to the Atom LT (another very good climbing jacket) but the shell stretches....where only the side panels offer any stretch on the Atom Lt.

RAB sez:  "For Spring 2012 we have taken everything we have learnt from the Vapour-rise clothing system and put it on a diet! The result is an incredibly breathable and weather resistant 'soft-shell' system that really works.  The Pertex Equilibrium outer fabric, when combined with the light tricot lining,gives you a jacket that is wind and water resistant and that offers fantastic moisture management that dries quickly and maintains a comfortable working environment.

Features that include rucksack and harness friendly pockets, a useful under-helmet hood that is unobtrusive when not in use, a 2-way front zip, adjustable cuffs and an adjustable drawcord hem make the Vapour-rise Lite Alpine an ideal all round mountain jacket."

Again this is another jacket with huge potential but not at the same party as some of the better climbing jackets listed here.  For me this one makes a good summer alpine rock jacket or even a super lwt run up Rainer or Mt Blanc.  For quick super lwt trips to the alpine, sans helmetrequirements this one really rocks.   But as a climbing jacket it is a VERY athletic cut in a group of very athletic cut jackets.  In other words it is tight and not made to take much under it.  I use it alone to run in.  But for once the forearms are not too tight :)  The hood on the other hand is...not one that RAB makes many mistakes on.  But this hood is too small for a helmet.  So my verdict on this one is, "A AWESOME 3 season jacket for lwt trips where you don't need a helmet. Or don't need a hood"  I included it because I think it really does have some serious potential once you figure out a place for it in your own adventures.  I have but it is not a go to ice climbing piece for me....yet,  Too bad because I think the Vapour-rise garments (and this one in particular) have the same or more potential as the Arcteryx Atom Lt.

Which is high praise indeed coming from me. 

 

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/02/arcteryx-atom-lt-hoodyjust-how-good-is.html

REI Neo Jacket $125. (*no hood) 25.4oz / 722g Lg

Some might get a laugh on me for including this one.  But I paid for it and I like it a lot.  On sale it cost something like $65 for it plus WA. sales tax.   You could buy a lot of them for what a Venta would cost you @ retail.  I would imagine the Neo will last as long as the Venta will as well.  The REI warranty is certainly easier to use.

Although there is no hood, which is better in my opinion than a hood you can't use, the jacket wasn't designed as a climbing jacket.  It was designed to be a price point soft shell for "about town wear".  I have used it  for both and really like it in both arenas.  The first time I wore mine was on a date with my wife.  I thought I looked sharp...she allowed me that fantasy.  For climbing it is cut well.  The sleeves close with Velcro and are long enough and the body of the jacket is long enough to go into your harness and stay there.  Neither the sleeves or body are overly long or get in the way while in the car or running around town.  Seems almost perfect to me.  The fabric looks ot be the same as the material Marmot used in the Zion Neoshell.  Just no Neoshell, so it is cheap.  The DWR repels water like a duck's back and the thing breathes VERY well considering the insulation value if the lwt fleece backing on the fabric.

I like this jacket a lot.  And I like it for a lot of uses.  Spring skiing, a decent day ice climbing or off to town for a latte and dinner.  Multifunction and a very good price.  If you don't mind black or brown and have yet to own a soft shell you can use long into 3 seasons. this is a good place to start and see what you think of the idea.

 

The winner here by overall weight, stretch, and weather protection is the Arcteryx Venta MX.  Add the fact that the sizing, cut, pattern and details are typically impeccably Arcteryx and state of the art and it is a smack down even at $450.

Soft Shells.........finally! (Part 1 of 4)

Patagonia Knifeblade top and NWAlpine Neoshell "soft" Salopettes

 

The first parts to this review were written some time ago.  Sorry, life, among other things got in the
way on this one.  But it has been on my mind now for well over two full years.

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/08/big-shell-shoot-off-active-shell.html

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/11/part-two-soft-shell-intro.html

The problem if you take reviewing gear seriously is the more you know, the more you realize how much you really don't know.  Which is OK, since damn few others know much when it comes to comparisons.  Those that do aren't making any real effort to write about it from what I can see.

Having an educated opinion worth listening to isn't the only problem.  Most that are worth listening to (myself included here) get jaded by free gear, or just as bad, and may be even worse, so much gear that you don't have time to make a proper comparison within any kind of reasonable time line.

But I have found that the majority that actually do know something worth sharing already are sponsored by or work for one manufacture or another.   They will most often have little or no current experience with  comparisons of other/similar gear.  I believe you can include everything from ice screws and tools to clothing and boots in that comment.

As an example, one of my favorite jackets included in this review took me almost a year ( I admit I begged for this one and eventually got a current sample for free.  The retail price was $450) only to see it discontinued this season.   Another jacket that is in a similar situation but now replaced by a better designed/tailored  jacket retailed for $385.  I begged and finally got this one as well.  I only ask/beg companies for products because I don't think the reviews would be fair without that particular product.  I really don't like asking.  Having to ask a number of times...well you can imagine my frustration with the players involved when that happens.   These days my last resort is to actually buy them with my own money and then only on a pro deal or on sale.  But buying gear at this point (which  has been a BIG change from when I started Cold Thistle 3 years ago)  is becoming less and less of an option. No more maxed credit cards at Cold Thistle!  I simply can't afford it financially.  More importantly...it is not like I actually need any more of this stuff or want to horde climbing gear or clothing!  Trust me, I REALLY don't!

The problem now...and I know this one may be hard to believe,  is what to do with the gear after I have used it in testing.

30 year old Swiss soft shell salopettes

(hard faced wool/nylon blend)

OK, on to soft shells and how I use them or don't use them.  My first introduction to stretch soft shells was in a pair of Swiss salopettes.  I still think that pants are one of the best uses for a stretch soft shell material.  More on that eventually in a later blog article.  But generally in the past I mated my soft shell pants to a hard shell jacket.

9 years ago I was introduced to the Arcteryx Gamma MX hoody and pants.  At the time the Arcteryx Gamma MX salopettes and pants didn't seem all that impressive.  I already BTDT with pants.  But the Gamma MX Hoody was a totally different story.  I was convinced for a few year that I would never be without a Gamma MX Hoody.  I used one everywhere, water ice, mixed routes and bigger alpine objectives.

The MX cut the wind and was warm enough.  It would generally breath well enough.  But when I was working hard just barely well enough.  In the conditions I like to climb in (dry cold conditions, mid winter)  over heating and getting wet just isn't an option.  As I started to climb more often and get more fitness, with the Gamma MX as a top layer, I found one of two things happened.  I either went slow enough to stay dry and not sweat or I went at a reasonable pace and got wet from the inside.  That just wouldn't do.

To solve that problem I went looking for a more breathable outer layer.  The result of that search was the Atom LT and similar garments that I use now in its place.

So my biggest priority in a "shell" is that it breathes exceptionally well.  The second thing I want these days is it must have some stretch.  The more stretch the better imo.  I judged these shells as climbing pieces.  I used them in all of my activities and weather conditions.  But how I judged them was as climbing garments used in the typical conditions I climb in.  As always YOUR mileage may vary and this info is worth what you paid for it!

Arcteryx Atom Lt in spindrift

 

The conditions?  I make a real effort to climb in good weather, just not always perfect conditions.  I want blue sky, and as little wind as possible.  That doesn't always work out.  And if you are climbing ice or in the alpine, spindrift and running water are pretty common.  But  just so there is no confusion I don't climb in the rain intentionally.  I will however stand in a pouring water fall or climb through a torrent of spindrift if required.  Wet snow is always a potential hazard if you are out in fickle mountain weather.

Goretex hard shell at night in wet snow

 

 So  what I want from a soft shell garment first is breathability.  Then decent resistance to wind and water.  Stretch is always good and some insulation if it doesn't lower the breathability of the garment.  Short list not so easy to accomplish in one garment that you will use as a single layer.  

 

But it is getting more difficult every day to distinguish between  "hard shells" and "soft shells".  I use to know just by judging the *hand* (feel) of the material.  These days that may not tell you everything or anything if you aren't really paying attention and have an informative hang tag to read.   Some stretch and DURABILITY has been the calling card of a soft shell compared to a hard shell.  But these days durable fabrics can offer some stretch or none at all.  And what would normally be thought of as hard shell can offer stretch and durability way beyond expectations.  I can only write up what I get in my hands to test and use personally.   There are so many good garments out there, the ones I profiled here are NOT the end all of what is available.  But they are ones I really liked and not everything I had to review.   The best of what I have seen anyway.   Some of the jackets I tested here are actually no longer easily available.  And I have pushed the limits of what even I think is "soft shell" technology.  But as you will see the garments now over lap for function and use and continue to do so more with every new buying season.  If you don't see your favorite "soft shell" here,  feel free to add it to the comments section.

 

It is best I think to split the soft shell garments I tested into two categories, insulated and non-insulated.  There is a third category here I think that needs more discussion and that is Neoshell.  That will be in the last blog comments. Part 3 of this 4 part series.  (this is part 1)

 

But first let's wade through the "basic" soft shell technologies...insulated and non-insulated.  The term "soft shell" is by no means written in stone here.   Jackets like the Arcteryx Acto MX  FLEECE (not reviewed in this article but comments on the blog previous) blends these garments and their use even further.  Even writing the basic descriptions below of "insulated" or "uninsulated" or hard shell/soft shell is confusing for me with all these jackets literally at my feet and at hand.  But I would never describe any of the ones here as FLEECE. 

 

The Patagonia Knifeblade, the OR Axiom and the RAB Vapour-rise all make my generic labels confusing.  Neoshell can apparently be laminated to any material so just because it says "Neoshell".....does not mean you will get the same material (or the exact same functioning garment) from different companies, let alone the same company.  More on all this in the actual reviews.

 

The prices quoted are retail.  Look around on the Internet for more accurate pricing.

 

The insulated garments I looked at:

 

Arcteryx Venta MX $450.00

Arcteryx Gamma MX $345.00

NW Alpine Big Four Jacket in Neoshell $375

Marmot Zion Neoshell $385

*Rab Vapour-rise Lite Alpine $175.00 *  (*soft shell?)

REI Neo Jacket $125. (*no hood)

 

 

 

The uninsulated garments:

 

NW Alpine Big Four Jacket $235

Rab Scimitar $190

Patagonia Knifeblade $350. 

Outdoor Reasearch Axiom $375

Mammut Gipfelgrat Neoshell $450 (*discontinued)

 

This is a big review and for you to get the most out of it I'll be talking about the fit of each of these jackets in some detail.  Knowing how they fit me and how that might reflect on your own sizing requirements should help.  Knowing my current sizing will help you.

 

I'm 6'1", 188# with a 33" waist, 44" chest.  A 17"- 35" dress shirt fits me well with some comfort and 16.5"-33" is too small.  I can wear a men's Large and they will generally fit me a little loose.  For shell garments that I'll climb in I have generally been wearing XLs since I was in my early 20s.  They are loose, may be even baggy, but much easier to climb in.  Today's styles are typically sew with much better patterns than 20 years ago, with one exception that I'll get to in a minute.  For the better climbing specific garments you will see long bodies and a more trim fit.  They will tuck into a harness with ease and stay there when climbing hard with your arms up and doing athletic moves.    The arms are longer to keep you covered with no glove gap when reaching high.   RAB, NWAlpine and Patagonia have those two pieces of the pattern wired.  So wired in fact when I try those garments on I feel like a little kid in Dad's clothing.  The body is too long and arms are too long.... while in the store!  They are perfect for actual climbing however.  

 

The exception to modern patterns fitting me well is the circumference of the elbow/forearm.  For this one area both RAB and NW Alpine really cut their patterns tight.  So tight in a few of these garments I wouldn't walk out of the store with them.  

 

I am not Popeye!  If I were, I might understand this problem that is too tight of sleeves.  I took a moment to eye ball some of the Montana ice hardmen's forearms while standing in a vendor's both at Summer OR.  Hell, every one of them had bigger forearms than I do now!  I lost an inch of forearm diameter during last winter's chemo.  My forearms are now a measured 14" when pumped up in front of the TV.  Likely a bit bigger when sketched and pulling hard on lead!  I suspect you get the picture here.  Not everyone that climbs ice is a stick man. Damn few in fact.  Some of the manufactures mentioned here really need to go back to the pattern boards because of that mistake.  If the garment feels tight in the store it is going to really SUCK on a climb.

 

Enough so (as in SUCK) I generally play it safe and buy a XL.  But even that won't help on some of these jackets.  When cut well, like the Outdoor Research Axiom, or the Marmot Zion a size Large is fine for me to climb in with a nicely tailored fit.   Heed the warning and check your own sizing on the forearms before you buy.  Hoods are a totally different story as every company seems to have a different idea on what a good hood consists of.  That is another critical piece of the puzzle for pattern cutting.  Those two areas will be addressed specifically on every jacket reviewed here.

 

OK, on to the list.

Materials used, over all weight and size tested first.

 

Insulated:

 

Arcteryx Venta MX $450.00  22oz / 628g in a XL

Lightweight, breathable 520SNP is used on the torso and underarms to aid in temperature regulation

Heavier weight stretch WindStopper is used on the shoulders, hood, and back for added protection and unlimited range of motion

Arcteryx Gamma MX $345.00 24oz / 684g XL

Fortius 2.0 synthetic fabric insulates for warmth, dries quickly, DWR coating allows the fabric to repel light moisture

 

NW Alpine Big Four Jacket in Neoshell  $375 22.6 oz / 640g Lg

The water-resistant, breathable, and wind-resistant Polartec Neo Shell fabric delivers the protection of a hard shell with the breathability and mobility of a softshell.

 

Marmot Zion Neoshell $385  27.5oz / 778g Lg

The water-resistant, breathable, and wind-resistant Polartec Neo Shell fabric delivers the protection of a hard shell with the breathability and mobility of a softshell.

 

*Rab Vapour-rise Lite Alpine $175.00 * (*soft shell?) 11.7oz / 332g Lg

Lightweight Rab® Vapour-rise softshell jacket using Pertex® Equilibrium fabric and lightweight tricot lining

 

REI Neo Jacket $125. (*no hood)  25.4oz / 722g Lg

4-way stretch fabric is soft yet durable, and with a Durable Water Repellent? finish, Neo resists moderate rain and wind while allowing breathability; windproof to 45 mph

Brushed fleece laminated interior feels great on cool days

 

 

Non insulated:

 

NW Alpine Big Four Jacket $235 18.5oz / 524 Lg 

Made from premium Schoeller Dryskin the Big Four Jacket offers excellent breathability and 3XDry Technology ensures superior water resistance.

 

Rab Scimitar $190 22.7oz /  644g XL

The Scimitar is constructed using 2 of our own Matrix DWS fabrics, these are non-membrane, stretch, double weave, soft shell fabrics which are highly wind and water resistant and come with a factory DWR treatment. The main body is Matrix DWS in 182g/m weight and the darker panels are a tougher fabric in 275g/m weight for abrasion resistance

 

Patagonia Knifeblade $350.  20.6oz / 586g XL

Polartec Power Shield Pro fabric with a tricot backing, combines lightweight weather resistance and incredible breathability

 

Outdoor Reasearch Axiom $375 13.6oz / 386g   Lg  (soft shell?)*

Outdoor Research jacket is made with premium 3-layer 20D Gore-Tex® ACTIVE SHELL fabric to block out rain, snow and sleet while letting body vapor escape to keep you dry inside.

 

Mammut Gipfelgrat Neoshell $450 (*discontinued) 29.5 oz / 822g Xl

Lightweight layer of Polartec NeoShell; waterproof, windproof, and breathable

 

 As an after thought I found the retail prices interesting.  I intentionally picked these jackets for this review with no concern on their pricing.  It will be interesting to see how this all shakes out for "value of your dollar " on my "climbability" scale.

 

Insulated

$450

 $345

$375

$385

$175

$125

 

The uninsulated garments:

$235

$190

 $350

$375

$450

  

 

I

This review is a first in many ways!

Garments for this review were donated by RAB, Outdoor Research, Marmot, NW Alpine, POLARTEC and Arcteryx.  Three of them I wanted bad enough I bought them myself.  I'll let you figure out that combo ;-)   Where you find it appropriate please support the companies mentioned here who trust and support Cold Thistle enough to make reviews like this possible.  Without them Cold Thistle would be little new content of this scope on new gear. 

Next week's blog will continue the review with a detailed look at the first six "insulated" soft shells.

  

 

 

 

 

Ueber Steigeisentechnik- Crampon Manufacturing in 1908 Oscar Eckenstein

This is an interesting read  I had not seen previous from the inventor of the modern crampon, Oscar Eckensteinn written in 1908.

From the original,
"More than thirty years have passed since I first ventured into the Alps and in this time alpinism has made many advances. One need only compare today's rock technique and climbing knowledge with what it was three decades ago to be impressed! But there remain sections of alpinism that look the same as they did fifty years ago. This is especially true of ice technique and everything involved with this type of climbing. I often read trip reports from alpinists, (both guided and self-lead, who are respected as good climbers) who often write that they were forced to cut steps despite the fact that they wore crampons."

More here from Alpinist.com :

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web12f/wfeature-eckenstein

Alaska's Kichatna Range

Lance again?

Here is a link to the complete USADA
report on Lance Armstrong.

http://d3epuodzu3wuis.cloudfront.net/ReasonedDecision.pdf

The referenced George Hincapie signed affadavit can be found here:

 http://d3epuodzu3wuis.cloudfront.net/Hincapie%2c+George+Affidavit.pdf

I was likely the last to believe it but there should be no doubt LA doped now.

It must be the shoes, right ;)

On what is suppose to be a gear blog, once in awhile I see something that  just delights me.  It obviously is not gear making a difference in this case.  Imagine what this guy could do if he ever got into climbing!

The Ultimate question isn't it?

Good interview here as well:

http://www.tetongravity.com/blogs/Interview-Tempting-Fear-With-Andreas-Fransson-And-Mike-Douglas-6378877.htm

and more here on another huge line....

http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=40154#

Two good repeats in the Mt Blanc Range

Great stuff here!  The new ice season has definitely started!

Both these routes were freed as hard mixed lines.

Jeff Mercier and Korra Pesce on a exceptional mixed line originally done in two days, August 1967 by Jacques Léon Dard Reppelin. It was repeated again in two days in July 1972,  by Jean-Michel Cambon and Jean-Marc Boivin.      And again in two days by Jean-Claude Droyer in the winter of '72 solo.

(my French translation my be faulty on the details above, my apologies if so)




And one of the few *complete* ascents of  Beyond Good and Evil by Matt Helliker and Andy Perkins.  This one a 20 year old test piece put up  by Andy Parkin and Mark Twight in 1992.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67490

Kilian again!

Photo of Mont Blanc courtesy bigstockphoto.com




A few of us took note of this when it happened back in Sept. but I was  unable to put it into context here.  His run on the Grand is likely better understoof by the NA locals.

More here on that one:

http://outerlocal.com/hiking/the-grand-teton-a-runners-peak-outpost

This should help with the Innominata climb.

"Kilian Jornet, 25, one of the world's great endurance runners, has speed soloed the long, technical and exposed Innominata on the Italian side of Mont Blanc in a scant 6:17. The time is amazing on many levels. While technically the climb is easier than the north faces of the Eiger or the Matterhorn, the scale is much greater and the objective dangers are higher. Jornet, who is not even known as a climber, started from the church in Courmayeur at roughly 3,300 feet and ran the 12,000 feet to the summit of Mont Blanc, then ran over 12,000 feet down the French side arriving at the church in Chamonix in a total time of 8:43."

There is more and worth a look.

""Can you imagine what I could do if I had the physique of Kilian?" Steck told Rock and Ice."

http://www.rockandice.com/news/2250-kilian-jornet-takes-speed-soloing-to-next-level  

More on the Grand climb:

http://outerlocal.com/hiking/the-grand-teton-a-runners-peak-outpost

Running Grand Teton trailer from Teton Movie on Vimeo.

Calories in and Calories out?

Calories in and Calories out?  I had always thought all calories were the same.  They are not.

Loosing 50# in 9 weeks during chemo last winter made a huge impact (for the better) on my life.  I am still within 5# of that lower body weight.   Not having the support then that I wanted and am still looking for in diet and nutrition has sent me on a rather strange and long term journey.  Today a good friend sent me a couple of emails with links that I really didn't have time to watch.  But I did make the effort tonight.  They were well worth my time.  Thanks Bruce!

We train for climbing and sort through tons of gear and clothing but the real "tools" is our mind and our body.  How are you treating yours?   If you think that your age or life style changes are catching up to you and you are gaining weight because of it, this might be an eye opener.   One point I found very interesting was the difference in what and in what amount the additives changed in the mid '80s.

This is a short version on "calories".  The material gets pretty technical but it is well worth watching as many times as required to get the best understanding of the subject.



The original version is here:

Super light wind shells?

5.11 trad, circa 1988 with a Patagonia wind shell in tow

There are few pieces of gear that have been a consistent staple in my gear collection for a few decades.

I can limit it to boots, pack, crampons, and a set of axes for the most part.  And in that tiem frame all of them have changed several times over.  Except one.  When it comes to clothing two items have remained pretty consistent.  A decent lwt down jacket and a light weight wind shell.

Only the lowly wind shell has literally saved my life a time or two.   Literally considered "emergency equipment" for the most part.  Like in the picture above tied around my waist and unnoticed until needed.

Same shell on the summit of Rainier circa 1984

I generally take one of these along  when the weather is "perfect" in the mtns but I'll be out long enough or up high enough that  the weather can change in short order.   Alpine rock climbs with a good change of a thunder storm or a perfect day on the local volcanos that is bound to be windy at sunrise.  Or for my ultra light trips where I generally end up suffering a bit if my plans don't go as first thought out and I end up huddled around a fire all night to keep warm.

2012

Or when I just want something to add a little warmth and break the wind while while still breathing well as I try to move quickly on a easy approach like walking out to Professors in chilly temps.

Spring 2012 and still the same wind shell @ 6oz for my Large.

They seem to last awhile and are light in weight (around 5 oz in a large) and for the most part pretty wind proof and breath well.  The best fabrics these days also offer some rain protection with the most modern fabrics.  For my ancient gear I just give them a good soaking to get a DWR with something like Nikwax fabric coating.  And try to keep them away from an open flame and wind blown embers.

I get teased every time I put on my 80's purple Patagonia pull over shells (I have 2 ) because the bright colors gives away the age.  Not like my white hair doesn't!  So while my Patagonia piece is the for runner of the current Patagonia Houdini (retails @ 125 or under, some times WAY under so look around!) of today the only thing that seems hard on any of the them is fire.  After I collected a bunch of pin holes in my favorite shell during an unplanned overnight stop with a resulting fire to keep me warm till morning I went looking for a new shell.

I found three I think are worth mentioning but there are any number of them out there.  Patagonia Houdini is a good place to start if you don't like what I ended up with.

The first up is really the rock star of the bunch.  Camp's MAGIC ANORAK aka Flash Anorak.  Brian (who convinced me to buy one)  has a great write up on it here:

http://www.getstrongergolonger.com/journal/2011/12/24/camp-flash-anorak.html

Yep, no back on this one and you cna add or take it off without removing your pack.  At first I thought it only a skimo gizmo for the race guys.  Now it is one if nto my favorite for serious stuff in the mtns.

MAGIC ANORAK • Climbing, Running, Skiing, Hiking, Cycling • The lightest, most compressible hooded wind shell in the world! • Proprietary Araneum fabric is uncoated, yet windproof and water resistant • Built-in stuff sack measures just 4” x 2.5” • Chest pocket closes with a Velcro flap • 9-inch front zipper for ventilation • Velcro tab holds rolled up hood to prevent flapping • Lycra cuffs on the bottom hem and sleeves Constructed from innovative Araneum fabric, the Magic Anorak weighs only 3.4 ounces and fits in the palm of your hand. Araneum is a 20 denier nylon ripstop (35 g/m2) that is 33% stronger yet only 10% heavier than 15 denier fabric. The Magic Anorak is indispensable for light and fast outdoor athletes who cannot afford to carry extra weight, but may find themselves in adverse conditions. Clip it to a harness for long climbs or toss it in a pack as an emergency piece on aggressive cross-country hikes or ski tours. Because Araneum fabric has no coating (its technical features are gained from the tightness of the weave), the Magic Anorak can be washed time and again without affecting performance. SPECS ID: 1669 Sizes: S - M - L - XL Weight (medium): 91 g, 3.2 oz  (4.2oz for my XL) $89.95 USD The RAB Cirrus Wind Top: Next up is my now "every day" lwt.  The Camp Flash was so good I figured I needed something with actual full coverage for when...like I wasn't wearing a pack! I am using this one every where and for things I would never pull out an anorak for.  Running, biking and even throw it in my pack for a day of cragging.  Or off for a beer in town if the weather is decent enough to sit on the patio.  Love the full zip but it still seems like I am cheating some how.  But one of my now favorite pieces of kit.             Useful kit as Ally shows on the summit of Mt. Blanc. photo courtesy of Ally and Jon Griffith @ Alpine Exposures http://allyswinton.blogspot.com/2011/08/innominata-ridge.html http://www.alpineexposures.com/ The Cirrus Wind-Top is the full zip version of the Cirrus  Pull-On. Using the same Pertex Quantum 15 Denier fabric as the Pull-On the Wind-Top also features an under-helmet hood and 2 zipped hand-warmer pockets.Designed for fast and light use the Cirrus Wind-Top is a fully featured jacket that can be used over layers to create a warm and windproof clothing system yet weighs in at  just 120g / 4ozThe Cirrus Wind Top is ideal for adventure racers,  mountain marathons, fell runners, mountain bikers, or even for super lightweight alpine style ascents on rock where wind proof protection is required. Sizes: S - XXL Weight: 120g / 4oz  (4.6oz for my Large) $110 retail http://us.rab.uk.com/products/mens-clothing/windshell_1/cirrus-wind-top.html Last but not least is an interesting new shell from NW Alpine. With a retail of $475.00 American DOLLARS I am not sure what to think yet.  I have yet to wear a lwt shell out..even the less than $100 ones.  But then I try to take care of them and they don't generally get to touch granite.  Simply because it will shred a normal lt weight.  Bill @ NW Alpine may be on to something here.    My Eyebright weighs in at  5.4oz for a size Large.  Mind you Bill is looking at the Eye Bright as "the lightest fully featured waterproof/breathable jacket on the market". As in "fully featured" like any of the Gortex, H2No or Event shells offered by others in a similar price range.  This could well be the ultimate lwt waterproof and breathable jacket and a lwt wind shell or body armor as a bonus.  If it is, with the kind of durability claimed the $475. might actually be a be a bargain. Just remember any of these shells will melt if you add a little heat! World’s Lightest Full Featured Waterproof/Breathable Jacket The name Eyebright refers to the genus of many species of flowers  that thrive in high alpine meadows where their small size belies the strength it takes to survive in harsh mountain conditions. The Eyebright Jacket is built from waterproof/breathable non-woven Dyneema® fabric. Unlike other ultralight jackets that will tear at the sight of granite, our fabric provides tear strength and abrasion  resistance superior to any other material of it’s weight. The waterproof membrane is one of the most breathable available on the market. With fully taped seams, adjustable cuff tabs, an  adjustable helmet-compatible hood, and chest pocket, the Eyebright is the lightest fully featured waterproof/breathable jacket on the market. Simply put, if you need a shell that weighs almost nothing, packs small and can stand up to the abuse of alpine climbing, bring this jacket on your next trip. Available in white, made in the USA.

Another ice season is starting!

Alpine Ice

Rockies climbs..?

"Josh Wharton following a pitch in the upper gully section of Infinite Patience. Sustained grade 3 and mixed up to M5 for at least 300 m"

Photo courtesy of Gripped, Josh Wharton and Chris Alstrin  

Nice write up here:

http://gripped.com/2012/08/sections/articles/rockies-lessons-from-novice-to-intermediate/