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Last Spring in the Sierra
8 years ago
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2013
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November
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- Dynafit ONE PF-TF boot....
- Good and Evil......again
- I pissed them off too ?
- Yard sale..skis and boots?!
- Climbing damn it!
- The Scarpa Maestrale RS?
- More ice screw tests
- La Sportiva Spectre! One boot to rule all?
- Steck's custom gear? "Super nice"
- Tinker Toy design Efforts..part 2.. the Dynafit TL...
- How cool would a modern Galbier "Super Guide" be?
- Can you open your mind? A2.16 Pro Trailer, Mounti...
- Skimo gear info request?
- Tinker toy design efforts?
- Zamberlan 3000 Paine Plus GTX single boot.
- "Better to fall than get out the rope!"
- From the Cradle to the Grave...
- Jeff Lowe's Metanoia
- Ice screw technology?
- Patagonia's Encapsil™ Down Belay Parka....
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November
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About Me
- Dane
- "There is a reason the windshield is bigger than the rear view mirror"
9 comments:
Speaking of Ice screws have you gotten your hands on the New Petzl range of Ice screws? Specifically I am interested to see how the laser speed light perform in the long term, given the part aluminum construction. Not that they are the first ( If I recall E-climb ice screws are designed similarly).
I've only played with them at OR in and out of a big block of ice. Tried several times to get out with the Petzl demo rack that was floating around. Finally just gave up on the idea.
It would be interesting to see similar tests done with more realistic shock loading, and whether the results are any different.
It would have been nice to have the values mentioned in the video, as well.
That Petzl video was interesting.
I do wonder about the test results they obtained on the V threads. I seem to remember that part of the strength of the ice for v threads was it being under compression in vertical column. So while the pull tests in a flat creek bed are strong, in vertical ice they may be even stronger. Am I wrong about this?
I'm curious as to whether they tested v-threads with the holes oriented vertically, one on top of the other, rather than side by side.
Interesting video. You guys covered the down sides I think. Creek bed ice, slow loading of the gear, no shock loads and what looks like limited V thread positioning makes it good info generally...but nothing specific to write home about.
An interesting read regarding screws and v-threads.
http://hmga.gr/storehouse/word-acrobat/Ice%20Climbing%20Anchor%20Strength%20-%20MRA%202009%20-%20Marc%20Beverly.pdf
Hey Dane,
A little off the the topic of ice screw and v-thread strength, but do you, or someone you know, have any experience with the Petzl ice screw sharpener? Especially with other brand ice screws such as BD and Grivel (the only two ice screws I currently use). Does it really work well? Should it only be used with Petzl ice screws?
Any isight or information would be welcomed.
Thanks,
Larry
Hi Larry, I have not use it. Only played with one at OR. But I want one :)
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