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The cold world of skimo & alpine climbing

The cold world of skimo & alpine climbing

Sunday, November 17, 2013

More ice screw tests


Well worth a look at testing screws and v thrteads.

http://www.petzl.com/us/outdoor/news/products-news-0/2009/02/12/ice-screws-and-threads-resistance-tests

http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x7z2t1_ice-anchor-workshop

9 comments:

Unknown said...

Speaking of Ice screws have you gotten your hands on the New Petzl range of Ice screws? Specifically I am interested to see how the laser speed light perform in the long term, given the part aluminum construction. Not that they are the first ( If I recall E-climb ice screws are designed similarly).

Dane said...

I've only played with them at OR in and out of a big block of ice. Tried several times to get out with the Petzl demo rack that was floating around. Finally just gave up on the idea.

CCB said...

It would be interesting to see similar tests done with more realistic shock loading, and whether the results are any different.
It would have been nice to have the values mentioned in the video, as well.

jc luddite said...

That Petzl video was interesting.

I do wonder about the test results they obtained on the V threads. I seem to remember that part of the strength of the ice for v threads was it being under compression in vertical column. So while the pull tests in a flat creek bed are strong, in vertical ice they may be even stronger. Am I wrong about this?

Unknown said...

I'm curious as to whether they tested v-threads with the holes oriented vertically, one on top of the other, rather than side by side.

Dane said...

Interesting video. You guys covered the down sides I think. Creek bed ice, slow loading of the gear, no shock loads and what looks like limited V thread positioning makes it good info generally...but nothing specific to write home about.

Anonymous said...

An interesting read regarding screws and v-threads.

http://hmga.gr/storehouse/word-acrobat/Ice%20Climbing%20Anchor%20Strength%20-%20MRA%202009%20-%20Marc%20Beverly.pdf

Anonymous said...

Hey Dane,

A little off the the topic of ice screw and v-thread strength, but do you, or someone you know, have any experience with the Petzl ice screw sharpener? Especially with other brand ice screws such as BD and Grivel (the only two ice screws I currently use). Does it really work well? Should it only be used with Petzl ice screws?

Any isight or information would be welcomed.

Thanks,

Larry

Dane said...

Hi Larry, I have not use it. Only played with one at OR. But I want one :)