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The cold world of skimo & alpine climbing

The cold world of skimo & alpine climbing

Thursday, January 5, 2012

Bjørn-Eivind Årtun interview with Rolando Garibotti

"We need to allow ourselves room to be more daring. Too often by over-analysing and over-intellectualising climbs we confuse fear for real danger. It is important to learn to distinguish one from the other. There is a big difference between getting intimidated by the steepness, difficulty or length of a climb, and real dangers such as avalanches, rock-fall, limited options of retreat, cold, etc. Venas Azules is a good example, an intimidating line that is reasonably safe, with little objective danger. Being brave and open minded without compromising your safety is the fine line we walk in our hunger for adventure."


Bjørn-Eivind Årtun

Great interview with one of the leading alpinists in the world today.  More here:

http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=38981

And the online guide book with more info here:

http://www.pataclimb.com/

Torre Egger, Patagonia Photo by archivio Bjørn-Eivind Årtun

Venas Azules, Torre Egger, Patagonia.



Torre Egger, Patagonia Photo by Rolando Garibotti


The south face of Torre Egger in Patagonia and the line of the route established by the Norwegians Bjørn-Eivind Aartun and Ole Lied in December 2011.


Thanks to Bruno for the heads up on this one!

4 comments:

Morten Johansen said...

This new is route is just totally awsome! Bjørn-Eivind is truly inspiring, taking the alpine routes to a new level! I saw a lucture by him last year talking about his and Colin´s route on Forakker, highly inspiring!

davesearle.me said...

Wow, that's awesome!

Brian said...

Beautiful pictures,the route looks incredible!

Becky J.Banuelos said...

You could certainly see your expertise within the work you write. The world hopes for even more passionate writers like you who aren't afraid to say how they believe. Always follow your heart.
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