Arc’teryx Alph FL Review

"The abseil off the Aiguille Du Midi Bridge into the Cunningham Couloir"

Nice Toque there Dave!

Arc’teryx Alph FL Review by Dave Searle.

I’m not really a huge fan of waterproofs for climbing being as most of the time I don’t climb in the rain.  As Mark Twight eloquently put it in Extreme Alpinism “if its raining in the mountains, you should just go home”.   I agree.  However summer alpinism isn’t that predictable and more times than I can count I have had a good drenching on the walk out.

When I first laid my hands on the Alpha FL I knew it was going to be a winner and is probably going to accompany me on lots of my alpine adventures.   I have been using it for a few months now ski touring and steep skiing and it’s worked really well.  It really is no frills. No pit zips, only one generous chest pocket, no wired hood and even the zip pulls are just  bit of coloured dental floss!  It doesn’t even have a zip gutter on the main zip because the zip itself is waterproof enough.  I was a bit worried that the zip might not stand up to serious windy wet weather but to be honest I don’t really care.  Wind is one thing and rain is another but together and you wouldn’t see me leaving the house for much more than a dash to the shops.  If, however, I was climbing in Scotland and I knew it was going to be grim (which it normally is) then I might pack something a bit more bombproof but that’s not what this jacket is trying to achieve.  Even then I still think I would grab the Alpha FL because it has a good balance of being burly without all that extra useless stuff….like hand warmer pockets.   Who needs hand warmer pockets when either climbing or belaying? I don’t and I think if you ask yourself then you’ll probably agree you don’t either.  Extra unnecessary weight for sure.  Ueli agrees…..

Three layer Goretex in it's own stuff sack.

Active shell is gore’s most breathable fabric and it hasn’t let me down so far.  I’ve yet to reach the point of thinking “I wish I had pit zips” without just whipping it off and shoving it in the tiny stuff sack provided.  The outer fabric on the Alpha Fl seems pretty sturdy to.  Not a mark on it after tree skiing and scrabbling about on granite for a few months, the two things which are guaranteed to end the life of a lightweight waterproof prematurely. 

The hood is good and it of course fits over a helmet well and reduces down on a bare head neatly. The chin piece isn’t as high as some other jackets I’ve seen but it still covers enough.  As I said it doesn’t have a wired peak but it is stiff enough for that not to matter.   The arm articulation is great, the sleeves don’t ride up my arms at all and the hem stays put.  Exposed waist and wrists is a common problem I face with jackets due to my disproportionately long arms.

So it’s not the lightest waterproof jacket in the world at 295g but it isn’t that far behind either!  I defy any sub 250g jacket to withstand half of what I have put this jacket through in two months.  A little extra weight can go a long way in durability for sure.  Definite thumbs up from me here.   Oh and purple is the new green I have been informed. J

Dave using the Alpha FL in the Cunningham Couloir 

Vince Anderson Interview?

 
From Morten Johansen.  You can listen to it here:

http://dbkk.dk/images/stories/Vince/vince%20anderson.mp3

Crazy snow year in Chamonix!

The Access Fund?

Please excuse the weird formatting here.  For the life of me I couldn't get this letter to appear correctly on the blog.  Message is good though and worth a look. cheers, Dane

"Dear Climbers,

I’ve had the opportunity and pleasure to climb freely in the Red River Gorge. 

This beautiful area boasts a plethora of world-class climbs from easier moderatesto top-notch challenges, including one of my latest achievements—Pure Imagination5.14d.

Whether you’re climbing 5.6 or 5.14, the Access Fund needs the help of climbers 

like us to ensure that there are always places available for us to push our 

limits and to enjoy the great outdoors.

I am writing to encourage you to join the Access Fund—the national advocacy organization that keeps climbing areas open and conserves the climbing environment. Today the Access Fund has over 10,000 members (climbers just like you and me) and affiliates whose support helps protect America’s climbing. This year, they’ll host more than 160 climbing trail and crag cleanup days, and lobby on federal, state, and locallevels to ensure continued access to climbing on public lands. They will also work with private landowners to preserve access to the areas we all love to climb—like the Red River Gorge.

*But there’s more to do.* Become a member of the Access Fund today and be a part ofthe largest climbing advocacy movement in America. For $35, you’ll join the ranks of climbers who respect the land, and our sport. And, thanks to the generous 

support of my sponsor, Petzl, you’ll get a FREE Attache locking carabiner, while 

supplies last! Just enter *Promo Code PETZL04.

The Access Fund exists for you. 

And your membership makes all the difference. Please join today.

Thanks in advance for your support, and welcome!"

See you out
there,

Sasha DiGiulian
Access Fund Member & Sponsored Athlete

P.S. Enter *Promo Code PETZL04* to receive your FREE locking biner!

How is your French?

Climbing pack in Cham?

More on climbing packs from Dave Searle in Chamonix.   Call it a Euro perspective :)  Thanks Dave!

With the recent Cold Thistle theme being centred around climbing packs I thought I’d put in a word or to as well. 

Last year and the year before my climbing pack was the Black Diamond RPM 26.  It was more or less the ideal Chamonix climbing pack and served me well on many good days out from big north faces to sunny rock climbing and hauling 25litres of water on training runs.  Its simple clean design, low weight and smart features where a real winner.  The material is good, tough enough to withstand granite chimneys (cheese graters) without being too heavy.  With two side pockets and a small lid pocket stashing gloves and snacks is easy and with a simple yet effective draw cord compression on the front shedding a layer is easy to.  It was however difficult to carry a rope on the outside (necessary if your packing bivy stuff) and the zip top closure was slightly worrying.  I never had any problems but when the teeth start to sit funny it’s pretty scary to think it could burst open at any time landing you in deep trouble. 

I have recently replaced the BD with a Blue Ice Warthog 26.  26 litres seems to me to be the perfect size for a climbing pack out here in Chamonix.  If you need anything bigger you’re either doing something wrong or something very hard!  The only time I needed a bag bigger last year was on my failed attempt on the Desmaison/Gouseault with would have required two bivi’s on the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses.

I much prefer the lid system on the Warthog which makes carrying a rope a breeze with the separate strap and the helmet carrier is a great idea to, something that the RPM was missing . The Ice ace loops are simple but work really well.  I have even jerry rigged the Rope carrying strap combined with a ski strap through the lower Ice Axe loop to make a rudimentary but effective ski carrying system.  It worked fine with my 108 waisted ski’s and held the ski’s in the perfect cross carry position for bootpacking. 

The material on the Warthog is tougher and a lot more durable so it should last longer than my RPM and also would take the odd hauling session if required.   The removable light waist belt is good to (the same as the RPM).  I never climb with a waist belt but it is good to have one for those long slogs up to the bottom of the Jorasses. 

The quality of Warthog is superb too.  It’s still going strong after half a season of use and abuse without any signs of wear.  I’m looking forward to giving it as much use and seeing how it fairs!

Climbing Packs part 4

Steve House on the N. Face of Alberta, April of 2008

Custom CCW pack made to order.  photo courtesy of Vince Anderson 

http://www.skywardmountaineering.com/

Screen snap shot from a video featuring Colin Haley in the Spring of 2011, Chamonix,

Patagonia prototype pack, no lid.  Same pack Colin and Mikey Shaefer used on Devil's Thumb.  And the pack Colin used in lectures for show and tell here in Seattle. 

http://colinhaley.blogspot.com/2010/08/devils-thumb-diablo-traverse.html

http://www.colinhaley.blogspot.com/

http://vimeo.com/23577174

This is the last blog in a 4 part series on climbing packs.  It really isn't fair of me to emphasize the fact of just how good basic packs are with pictures of Steve House, Colin Haley, Vince Anderson and Mikey Schaefer all using similar type packs for their own climbing.  There are dozens of other pack manufactures out there and lots of extremely good alpinists using much more complicated packs.  I have nothing to gain from promoting these simple pack ideas.  And the same pack ideas were around when I started climbing, long before Twight, House or Haley began their own adventures.   

But these guys are picky about their own gear and can use or have anything they want made.  Which for me means it is likely worth paying attention from time to time to what they are using.

You need to look close in the left hand margins of this picture but Vince Anderson's pack on Alberta is there as well.

Steve with the lid on while on Alberta.

photos courtesy of Vince Anderson

http://www.skywardmountaineering.com/

But the pack style isn't just for the super stars.  Here is another set of packs I mentioned previous.  Stock CCW Ozone on the left in red ballistics cloth and a custom CCW climbing pack on the right in the Spectra grid.  Good side by side size comparison for volume. 

packs and photo courtesy of Ryan@bfmgs

http://bigfootmountainguides.com/2012/04/13/the-perfect-climbing-pack/

More here:

http://www.larsonweb.com/backpacks/id1.html

And finally two more custom CCWs.  My stripped version that weights in at 22oz.    My point here is don't believe the ad hype.  When you start looking at climbing pack weights  make sure you actually weigh your choices or go to someone you can trust to give you the weights.  I have listed most of the major players in the blog at some point.  

Five, 60 meter ropes in this one and 30#

Even at 22oz my custom version is a amazingly tough in Spectra and not a tiny pack.

Nastia's  new, custom version of the Ozone with a 17" back sewn up in Spectra ripstop with compression straps, crampon patch and straps with a lid attached on the left.   It weighs in at 28oz with the lid, removable foam back pad and all.   Nastia's  custom Ozone is a much smaller pack than my 21"  backed custom CCW.  Which makes perfect sense as I am 6'1" and she is 5'4".

In the alpine, where this style of pack excels. 

Photo courtesy of OlegV

Michael Wejchert's  custom Cold Cold World Ozone loaded for late-season ice climbing.  "Inside are boots, extra layers, two water bottles, and my puffy. Under the lid are my crampons and helmet. I love how the lid stretches to accommodate a helmet or rope." 

Lid in the pack..easy. 

The tool attachment system: shock cord, essentially. Four bar-tacked tabs give some options for ice tools or a foam pad for single-push climbs and the like. Randy made sure the tabs were big enough for carabiners also. Totally removable for summertime rock climbing.

More here on Michael's custom version:

http://www.farnorthclimbing.blogspot.com/2012/04/company-next-door.html

Le Fil a Plomb

Gorrilla's in the Mist..alpine rock

Low Impact Training?

FYI..I am not a coach and don't pretend to be.  I'm going to share some training observations here that work for me related to climbing.  They may or may not work for you.  The  fitness comments I make are just the tiny tip of the iceberg on training.  To train and get stronger you really need to educate yourself on the subject and all that it incorporates.   Or do both and climb!  Climb a lot!    Because I don't "climb a lot", I train.  I typically train to my weaknesses, endurance and physical strength.  You have to know what you want from the training first, to get what you need out of the training.

For most who will read this with some interest it is likely because "high impact" training hurt or has injured you previous.

I have never been a big runner.  But I have ran and I do run now.  But for most running on pavement will tear you up given enough miles.  Running on pavement is rough on everything from joints to tendons.  Well it at least tears me up, has in the beginning as a teenager and does now in middle age.  Hilly trail running (which can be a lot more "dangerous") for me is a lot softer impact sport.  I am forced into a forefoot strike instead of a heel strike and the surface is generally a lot more forgiving.  Not to say it isn't easier to trip and bust your ass or an ankle running trails instead of you local high school track, paved trails or the side streets.  And you can run with a forefoot strike anywhere once you learn (relearn?) the skill.

Foot strike is important.
more here on foot strike:

http://barefootrunning.fas.harvard.edu/1WhyConsiderFootStrike.html

http://barefootrunning.fas.harvard.edu/4BiomechanicsofFootStrike.html

But running is not a low impact sport.  Generally you learn early on if you can run.  You either don't get injured running or you do and it becomes a problem trying to keep running.  I am good up to 1/2 marathon distances both for racing and training.  At full marathon distances my body is telling me the mileage and the race efforts are just too much.   I don't have a runner's body at 200# and 6'1" so no surprise.  But even at 180# marathon distances still hurt and take a long time to fully recover from.  Too long if I want to climb during the summer and the risk of injury training, just too great.

So I limit how much running I do.  But there are two low impact sports I try to do a lot of.  I really like them both simply because I have been doing them for as long as I can remember.  Swimming and riding a bike.

And in a controlled environment I don't have to worry about dying doing either.  Both are mindless activities the majority of time for me.  But not always if you up the environmental hazards.  And with even a tiny bit of care neither will hurt you significantly physically even during hardest work outs.

And the fourth sport is Skiing.  Downhill on the lifts, back country and side country on 3 pin gear and Skimo gear.  It is all skiing to me.  And like the bike or swimming something I have been doing a long time.

Here is where I start to define what I want from my training. If you don't know what you want from your exercise efforts you'll likely never get what you want from your exercise efforts.

Running Goals?  (running is always training for the mtns eventually)
Olympic and Sprint Tri racing
1/2 IM race finishes
trail running for endurance
uphill running to simulate and strengthen my climbing

Bike goals? (biking is always training for something)
200+ mile days (road bike)
Tri and TT racing
endurance days in the mtns = endurance days on the bike

Swimming goals? (swimming is generally training for swimming/tris)
IM distance swims
Sprint and Oly distance races
relaxation

Skiing goals (skiing is generally for fun but sometimes it is to better my skills or training for endurance)
technical or steep skiing
endurance days in the mtns
relaxation

And then there is number FIVE which is also low impact
Rock/Ice climbing or crag climbing goals?
get stronger physically as a climber for the mtns or to just up my abilities on tech terrain

Back to the "Principle of Specificity"
But I know why and how I train.  Do you?

You can never be too strong, too rich or too pretty :)    Which is why others advocate the benefits of a crossfit or similar strength training programs.  I don't generally partake but I suggest others do for the obvious benefits to be gained.

Converts?

One of the most personally satisfying things I get to see from Cold Thistle is the guys/gals out climbing every day taking some of the ideas I write about and making them their own.  No greater compliment to me.  I am thrilled that anything I write or suggest actually gets rethought and used.

Here is one that popped up on my blog radar this morning.  Very cool pack Ryan had made up :)   And a great blog!

http://bigfootmountainguides.com/2012/04/13/the-perfect-climbing-pack/

barefoot running?

I often get emails asking what I do to get fit and/or stay fit.  As I work on my own recovery and try to get to a level of fitness I now find acceptable I have to ask myself that same question.   This will be the first in a long series of blog posts that will answer some of that question for the readers here and what I find of interest (but may or may not agree with) for my own training.  The easy answer is always the best, pick your own poison and then just go climbing!


It is called the "Principle of Specificity".
More here:

http://sportsmedicine.about.com/od/glossary/g/Specificity_def.htm

Not everyone gets to climb every day.


The Truth about Barefoot Running

Why barefoot running is not suited for the average runner.


By G.S.Seltzer
http://triabilitycoach.com/


Perhaps you are familiar with the barefoot running craze, started by the book Born to Run by Author Christopher McDougall. Perhaps you have been thinking about giving barefoot running a try. Many run and triathlon coaches recommend running barefoot to some degree on a soft surface, such as grass, to help improve your running mechanics. Most experts agree however, that running barefoot most of the time is neither safe nor practical.


Reality Check


Although great in theory, running barefoot is not for everyone. Raise your hand if you came across any barefoot runners in any race you ran in the last year. The good news is that the running shoe industry is taking note of the interest in barefoot running and minimalist shoes. Minimalist shoes, or minis, are lightweight because they have few bells and whistles, such as built up heels that many experts claim make our legs and feet weaker, causing injury. Shoes like Vibrams provide a barefoot ride and feel, while providing some protection against puncture wounds from debris and road rash.


The Reality


Running barefoot is dangerous for the vast majority of runners for two main reasons. First, rocks, twigs, glass, and other debris will likely cause injury at some point. Second, the muscles and joints of the legs and feet typically are weak because we wear shoes continuously. Some runners attempt to eradicate this, running a few miles each week barefoot, performing foot and leg strengthening exercises, and walking barefoot in and around the house. Running stride drills barefoot on grass, the track, or at the beach are good examples. Strong feet provide a solid platform for the body to ride upon – weak feet do not. Start out slow focusing on your form will help you prevent injury.


Barefoot Running Does Have its Place


If you are determined to take barefoot running to the road here are a few considerations. Start slowly until your calves, arches, and Achilles tendons adjust. Increase the distance slightly each week, and listen to your body if you experience aches or pains as mentioned above. Run on a smooth, soft surface. When transitioning to hard surfaces, such as the road, try using minimalist shoes, which are low to the ground, lightweight, and provide the feel of being barefoot. Vibram, New Balance, Nike, and Newton Running make some of the better-known minimalist shoes.


Final Thoughts


If you are prone to injury using running shoes, running barefoot is not likely to change that; if you do not get injured often in running shoes, than why change? Trade in your heavy, clunky shoes with the anti-sway this, and the heavily cushioned that for a pair of minimalist shoes. Trade your heel strike for a mid-foot strike and rejoice at the results. Allow for a proper transition, and seek a qualified run or triathlon coach for assistance. The time and resources invested will be well worth it in the end.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Gregg Seltzer is a certified USA Cycling and Triathlon coach, as well as strength and conditioning trainer. Gregg owns Triability Coaching, based in Southern California. Contact Gregg via email at gregg@tri-ability.com or phone at 800.884.2194.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The photos below are of my HRM  on a short hilly run intentionally done right at my lactate threshold pace.   Like weighing your climbing gear it is hard to know where you are really at unless you measure it.  In this case the easy way to measure performance (and performance changes) is with a heart rate monitor (HRM).

It is officially Spring here!

My buddy Sol on some fun local rock.  Enjoy!

Simple solutions, leash, sock and picks

When I start thinking I know what I am doing I usually get a lesson in humility.

Umbilicals?  To connect the umbilical to the tools we have mini lockers, flat steel wire gates and a host of do-it-yourself solutions with all offer varying amounts of success.  How hard does it really need to be?  Not very it seems.  For the home made ones just tie a big loop in the end and do the same.  Easy on and off for the alpine where you may want to remove the umbilical all together.  Thanks Jim for pointing out that obvious solution to my my overly jaded imagination.

Boots that don't fit perfectly?  Feet a little different in size?  Not unusual for most folks.

How about using different thickness sock on each foot?   It might just be the simple fix you require to get a better fit.  Not one I have needed but so simple when it was pointed out to me I had to say, "duuuu, of course!" It is at least worth a try.  Thanks for that idea!

Another one that seemed to escape me and most of my climbing mates.  Sharpening tools?  For most things including vertical ice and the majority of alpine mixed a razor sharp pick isn't required. In fact it is just a waste of good steel (and your hard earned cash) to always be sharpening and resharpening your picks.

I know, BTDT myself on numerous occasions.  And until now I am generally loath to go on anything I think is difficult without a set of "properly sharpened" picks.  This spring I decided to see just how much difference it really makes.  Short of super cold  or old hard and brittle ice I suspect it doesn't matter much.  Now I intentionally sharpen my picks differently.

I think the ability to hook the tools easily is equally important as getting the initial stick.
With the best of the new tools hooking is easy and secure.  Which allows us to worry less about the condition of the pick's tip.  Much as we want to think it really does and I have been convinced it does for years.

Pick at the left is now 3.3mm and the newer one on the right is 3.1mm 

The difference in how the picks actually climb in the majority of terrain I use them on is nil.

To make a point the two  sets of picks below started out new and got some use.

The pair above was used on the first ascent of  Dracula,  Mt Foraker.

This pair was used on a solo ascent of the Cassin, Denali

As I said unless it is really hard and cold or  just old ice the pick can be pretty well worn and still very usable.  More so than you might first think.  Certainly on a lot of the mixed we do by simply hooking you don't need a razor's edge on your pick.  The first time you miss judge a placement and slam the pick into rock you'll end up with a dull edge anyway.  The cutting edge of a splitting maul will last a lot longer than that of a scalpel.  Each has their own place in the tool box.  Best to know which you need for your specific job.

I still have picks I haven't touched with a file that get used on fat Canadian ice.  Going a full season there without intentionally hitting rock is not unusual.   They start out sharp from the factory and stay that way if I pay attention.   I also have the pair of picks I climbed on in Chamonix last winter.  Down into the teeth on those simply from wear on the hard granite and old black gully ice there.   One is the rounded and shortened pick seen in the first picture.  The pair look remarkably the same.

I used that pair of picks on several pure ice climbs this spring including the scariest lead I have been on in a while.  Sticks are easy in the spring time slush :)   The shape of my picks never once entered my mind.

The Eiger

The "word" is getting around..."Neoshell" soft shell

New skis? New turns!

The La Sportiva Batura 2.0

To my amazement the most often read blog entry on Cold Thistle is the Phantom Guide/Batura boot comparison.  The page reads on that one post more than double the next most popular blog.   The comparison was first posted in April of 2010.  Almost two full years later and the same blog entry still gets the highest number of reads month after month.

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/04/scarpa-phantom-guide-vs-la-sportiva.html

First generation Batura on M6

While I have always had great hopes for the "super gaiter" style single boots I had no idea just how popular they obviously have become.   I still think the technology could be bettered with a light weight and low profile double boot.   The boot manufactures and the buying public seem to disagree with my theory.

Ok, so call me cynical.

I wasn't impressed with the Batura 2.0's name.  I mean how different could the "2.0" be from the previous 2 or 3 variations or generations of the Batura?  Or for that matter from the Phantom Guide or one of my favorites the Phantom Ultra?

I understand keeping the name " Batura" attached to this model.  The "2.0" was kinda a joke to me on first impression.  How different could the boot really be?  In this case a lot different.  It isn't the same boot really, or even a variation of the old Batura, if you look closely.  If you are like me, I first coughed and muttered BS under my breath when I first heard the rumors of "a much better boot".  But I have changed my opinion on that, it is in fact a much better boot..

That was easy to figure out once the newest 2.0 showed up on FED EX.

Just pulling the boots from the box was a wake up call.

For any one who has climbed in a double boot...any double boot and also climbed in a super light Fruit boot you have to wonder why the two technologies haven't merged over the last decade with better effect.

My idea of a  mountain boot these days is the weight and technical ability of a fruit boot like the incredible Boreal Ice Mutant.  More realistically a Scarpa Ultra with some additional warmth and lighter yet in weight?  The support on ice and warmth of a Spantik or Baruntse would be a bonus.  And the over all profile of the Trango series.    The Scarpa 6000 comes pretty close to that idea but lacks the support on endurance ice in comparison to the La Sportiva models.  And its volume is getting up there in comparison to the Ultra for instance.  After all it generally takes more volume in a boot to offer more warmth, right?

But  if I make that call on the Phantom 6000 then the Batura comes up lacking on endurance ice as well.  A real fruit boot on similar terrain?  Pity the fool!   But a really light weight boot given the right support is such a pleasure to move in on most terrain.

Like the choices made in steel for ice tools, every decision you make in design and materials limits the over all use of any product.  So you first define the product.

Obviously the Batura is no fruit boot but neither is it a double boot.

La Sportiva NA president, Jonathon Lantz calls is a true "1.5 boot".  Half way between the best single boot and the best double boot for warmth.

The Batura has just been defined for warmth.

For difficult technical cold weather ice, mixed and alpine climbing we all know you need a few things incorporated in the design.  Low profile and small volume over all.  Think fruit boot here to be take every advantage of the terrain.  The flip side for technical ground is an awkward and big in volume, ski boot.  Which I assume we all want to avoid.  Make the sole rigid but no so rigid you can't walk in them.  Make that midsole durable so the boots never change in flex.   It is a climbing boot so you want a flexible ankle with enough support for endurance ice when required but enough flexibility for hard technical ground with and without crampons.

It is quite a wish list when you write it all down.

If this were easy we wouldn't have dozens of pairs of boots from many different manufactures trying to attain the same goal with varying levels of success.

The Batura has been successful as a "1.5".  Nothing new here as the basic design has gotten better every year since 2007 from my personal perspective.  There is so much potential yet in this boot style.   The same basic technology can be easily traced back to the early 1970s and Peter Carmen's Super Gator.  And it has worked well in the field ever since.   I am thrilled La Sportiva and now Gore has continue to evolve this style of boot.

So what exactly is different from the Batura Evo?
To continue the evolution of the Batura,  a second Gore-Tex membrane was added .  Now both the outer gaiter and in the inner boot have a Gore-tex layer for more complete protection.

The plastic zipper has also been scrapped in favour of a simple zipper with a Velcro hook and loop closure on the gaiter.  I only which they had added another inch or two to the gaiter.

Otherwise, construction appears to be the same as last year’s model, and the boot continues to be built on a Nepal last (i.e. if Nepal EVOs fit you, these should have the same fit).  The 2.0s feel seriously light. I mean three-season alpine boot light!

Actual weight on my scale?

1130g one 43 Batura Evo 2011
890g one 43 Batura 2.0 2012

Best thing I can do is make a side by side comparison,  Batura Evo to Batura 2.0.

Height of gaiter - same

materials used - lighter in weight for the 2.0

dbl layer Goretex - new to the 2.0

lower profile boot/toe - new to the 2.0

Left to right, new 2.0, last year's Evo and a Ultra

Below, carbon mid sole - new to the 2.0 on the right....earlier Evo version on the left.  Thinner for better feel but also warmer.

Above, the additional sole rocker and carbon fiber midsole of the 2.0 is shown on the right.

On the left is the previous generation Batura EVO.

foot closer to the rock/ice - by design in the 2.0

zipper and Velcro closer on gaiter - new to the 2.0

rocker
lace lock
ankle padding and stiffness
tongue bellows
fit and lacing
lighter in weight


Below, 30mm toe rocker on the Ultra,  38mm toe rocker Batura 2.  Making the Batura 2 easier to walk in.  Much like the rocker profile on the Spanik.

Note the differences in sole thickness with La Sportiva on the left and Scarpa on the right, where you attach the front crampon bail.  The Batura sole profile is a much easier fit to any current crampons

The first thing I noticed is the boot's weight. That you notice right out of the box. In a size 43 the 2.0 is a full 240g lighter per boot than the previous Batura Evo.

240 grams = 8.5 ounces per boot

That is a savings of 17oz per pair in a size 43 over the current boot.. You'll save more weight as the boots get bigger.   Lack of the boot's tongue and the new carbon fiber mid sole will show there.

Interesting that they new Baturas are so light. A good bit of the weight savings was done by using a super thin, honey comb, carbon fiber mid sole. Carbon is being used in the Olympus Mons, the Spantik and the Mega ice, oh and the Stratos AT boot. My take is the Batura has been bumped into a totally difference class of boot by La Sportva simply because of the manufacturing techniques and costs associated with the new Batura 2.0 design and manufacturing effort.
The new mid sole is now lighter, warmer because of the added air spaces in the honey comb and more consistent in flex.  Jonathon Lantz says, "this mid sole is slightly softer in flex but will never get softer,  as the previous 9mm Ibi-Thermo mid sole material did in use".    You couldn't tell that by my samples. The sole is rigid on these!

The thickness of the insulation has changed. For the moment at least Mr. Lantz wasn't offering anything very specific on the insulation. "Lighter and warmer" was the definition :)

No surprise I like a rigid soled boots and a stiff cuff. Generally I like my boots more rigid than most fabric ankle boots are capable of. Good news here. You have to look close to feel it but the actual boot that supports your foot is now made of a slightly stiffer Cordura fabric. Point is the added stiffness in the ankle was intentional and a good addition imo. Make no mistake though, it isn't a fabric version of the Nepal Evo by any means. And I would still be hard pressed to say the 2.0 is any stiffer than a pair of Trango Extreme Evos. Plenty of support but not so much as it limits your technical climbing ability. The Batura 2.0 still incorporates, "The 3D Flex™ ankle hinge allows side to side movement for better footwork while still providing longitudinal lockout when front pointing."

It doesn't appear the stiffer Cordura material will change the fit. But the super streamlined new bellows tongue design, new insulation material and two layers of Goretx will. That is complete coverage by one 3 layer Gortex on the exterior gaiter and another complete sock liner of 2 layer Goretx on the inside. of the boot.

"To stay warm you must stay dry."

If you have followed the previous blog posts on winter clothing you already know staying dry is the key to staying warm in a cold climate. One of the distractions for me in the older Baturas is they held moisture. You had to be very careful on how you manages the sweat from your feet and if out over night how you kept you boot dry internally long term. I have used both Seal Skinz socks and Mitchums antiperspirant to lower the moisture coming from my feet in an effort to keep the insulation in the Baturas working at its best.

Boot soles?  Lighter weight?  One word, traction.
The Vibram Mulaz sole climbs better on technical rock.  But the LaSportiva / Vibram claim the Impact Brake System sole is better for long approaches and big days in the mountains.

I'd rather see an additional drop in weight and the Vibram Mulaz sole used on the new 2.0.

Each boot takes 34 days to put together, most of that glue-drying time, and they continue to be handmade in Italy which makes me feel a bit better about the suggested $650 price tag.

We seldom get a view behind the curtain when it comes to research and development from any European manufacture. (Or the U.S. for that matter)   But in this case I did get a glimpse of the testing that La Sportiva and surprisingly Gore in Italy did on the newest Batura.

Last year to develop the new technology for the 2.0 version, Gore Italy and La Sportiva did some innovative  testing that I have never heard of being done for a mountain boot prototype.  Over several weeks in the Slovenian Alps, Gore scientists and La Sportiva boot makers collected the data from heat and moisture sensors and the personal feedback from 40 pairs of tester's boots and the testers themselves.  That data was down loaded twice a day for weeks.  I am impressed!

So when you ask yourself why La Sportiva uses a Gore product in their boots it should be obvious. Both Gore and La Sportiva  have developed a mutual trust and both are willing to go to the extra effort to  push the technologies available for our benefit.

These are comments from others already using the Batura 2.0:

"the new version with GoreTex Gaiter and GoreTex boot"

"They give a snug fit while letting the toes enough spare place to move which I really like for avoiding
cold feet and kicking hard ice."

"Although if wet, for example if you sweat in them too much while
an approach in warm temperatures they are still hard to dry."

"In general I think the made a good trade of concerning the insulation.
The are thin enough, so that you can wear them in the alps in the summer
time without excessively sweating in them, further more they are warm
enough for ice climbing on cold winter days. But I have to admit that it
can get a bit chilly in them on really cold belay days.

I've had cold feet in them while ice climbing on a day with -17°C."

"The Baturas have indeed changed a lot, the ankle is a lot more forgiving than the old version and I think I could live with them I that respect. The last however has changed unless I’m mistaken. They used to feel like a (slightly) roomier Nepal Evo. Now they feel like a Trango. I get a slight toe crush as I do with my Trango Evo which is not good for a warm boot. The heel has also gone the way of the Trangos, I now get considerable lift which I never got before.  I would also add that we're stiffer
than pretty much any other fabric boot I've seen."


■A six layer fully synthetic boot specifically designed for winter mountaineering.
■Board lasted construction.
■Upper:
- Exceptionally resilient nylon.
- Insulated anti-dragging felt.
- Insulated polyethylene (PE).
- Insulating aluminum layer.
■Gaiter:
- Elastic Cordura® provides waterproof protection, while allowing ventilation for a comfortable environment.
- Schoeller® - Dynamic™ with water repellent membrane.
- Vibram® rubber rand.
- Elastic nylon with impermeable insulating layer.
- Asymmetrical, waterproof zipper for easy, on the go access.
■Lining:
- Polyamide Thermic layer for extra warmth.
- Durable mesh layer extends wear and ensures moisture is transferred away from the skin.
■Insole:
Insulating Ibi-Thermo 9mm.
■Midsole:
- 8-9mm TPU.
- PU Inserts.
- SBR Aircushion.
■Outsole:
- 8-9mm TPU.
- PU Inserts.

Previous Evo version with a plastic mid sole and simple gaiter zipper

The newest Batura 2.0 with carbon fiber mid sole and a Velcro closed zipper on the gaiter.

new Batura 2.0 and the new Salewa Pro Gaiter both in a Euro size 42

Dry tooling

Hopefully my final comment on BD stainless

Is it just me or is it really hard to get a simple and straight forward answer in any public forum?

I posed this question on the BD website (and on the Super Topo thread) and added the bold insert here on the "recall":

Dane Burns @ Cold Thistle
17 Apr 2012, 11:52PM
"In the Fall of '10 or early winter of '11 BD obviously made an inline change and added 30% or more material to the front point area on the frame of the Sabers where they have been breaking.

 We have been calling them Gen I and Gen II for clarity's sake.

As late as last Fall (2011) you could still buy Gen I Sabers at retailers online and in person.

Was there ever a recall internally of the Gen I crampons and replacement with Gen IIs. (the answer is yes in at least one retailer's case)   If you own Gen Is will BD replace them with Gen IIs prior to a failure? Thanks for the reply."

The BD answer is here:
http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb/all/qc-lab-gear-doesnt-last-forever--crampons

and reprinted here:

18 Apr 2012, 4:04PM
"@Dane Burns As previously stated in our QC Lab post on the Black Diamond Journal and in Peter Metcalf's post on Supertopo.com, our designers and engineers always look for opportunities to improve designs through in-line adjustments. These iterative design tweaks are part of any BD product, be it a carabiner, crampon, ski boot, headlamp or trekking pole. And, as stated previously as well, we stand behind all of our products, including all stainless steel crampons."


Looks to me like they are standing behind the crampons.  Swapping Gen Is for Gen IIs should be easy as BD really does stand behind the product.  Here is their warranty info:

http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/customer-service/warranty-repair

North America:

Black Diamond Warranty and Repair

2084 East 3900 South
Salt Lake City, Utah 84124
801-365-5555
warranty@bdel.com

The EU:

Black Diamond Equipment AG

Christoph Merian Ring 7

4153 Reinach, Switzerland
p: +41/61 564 33 23
f: +41/61 564 33 24

service@blackdiamond.eu

Here is how you tell the difference:

"Interesting observation from a picture. 2nd gen Saber on the left and 1st generation Saber on the right. Serac's look to have added the same amount of material to the forward rails. Difference across the flat, in the same area as the breaks above, has gone from .53" to .70". Or if my numbers are correct, a 38% increase in material to the rails. The center bar on the front points went from .50" to .62" or 24%."