Posts
Photo courtesy of Jon Griffith
More here but there is a link on my blog list on the right margin as well.
http://www.alpineexposures.com/blogs/chamonix-conditions/3849152-innominata-ridge-mont-blanc
Last Spring in the Sierra
8 years ago
Saturday, August 20, 2011
Oh my!
Simply stunning photo from Jon Griffith, again!
Courmayeur in the moonlight
Photo courtesy of Jon Griffith
More here but there is a link on my blog list on the right margin as well.
http://www.alpineexposures.com/blogs/chamonix-conditions/3849152-innominata-ridge-mont-blanc
Photo courtesy of Jon Griffith
More here but there is a link on my blog list on the right margin as well.
http://www.alpineexposures.com/blogs/chamonix-conditions/3849152-innominata-ridge-mont-blanc
Wednesday, August 17, 2011
Braver than? Frank Jourdan?
Even Steck admits to an on sight climb as being the better accomplishment. Jourdan didn't require pre inspection or multiple laps in the alpine.
And a bit of tongue in cheek when I say "brave than". Just wanted a little shock value as most haven't heard of, or understand Jordan's accomplishments in North America. Some perspective? Many of these climbs take a full day's walk just to get to the base. Most if not all, have rock much worse than on the Eiger. There are no trams, no cell service, no fixed gear with few climbers out compared to the Alps. And finally only the easier routes have seen much traffic. Almost everything Jordan did was an early solo ascent if not the 1st solo ascent. I've never heard of anything remotely comparable having been done by one climber in such a short amount of time in North America. You would have to look long and hard in the Alps to find anyone so eager, capable and most importantly committed today, let alone in 1994. Read on if you want to know more.
Pictures are literally only of Jourdan's "easy" routes from these trips!
Frank Jourdan?
David Dornian wrote the following about Frank Jourdan's summer for the Calgary Mountain Club World News' alpine report in 1994.
"A stiff little reminder of what can be accomplished when you put a few caffeine pills into your butt bag, hang a couple of ropes and your shoes off your harness, and get out whilst everyone else is still "waiting for things to come into condition"
What did YOU do on your summer vacation? In July, visiting German alpinist Frank Jourdan managed a quick two-week trip to the Canmore/Banff/Jasper corridor to finish off a North American tour.
Discovered sleeping in his car at the ACC clubhouse parking lot in Canmore, he was taken into town by staff, coffeed up, and the following amazing tale was extracted in halting English.
It seems that a few days previously, Frank had driven north to the Columbia Icefields where he soloed a route he referred to as "Skyladder Direct" on Mt. Andromeda. He then descended the line, crossed the glacier to the northeast, and ascended "The Shooting Gallery". From there, he traversed the summit of Andromeda, climbed down one of the "Practice Gullies" and moved across too the base of "The Andromeda Strain".
In the dark now, he ascended the "Strain" by headlamp, carried on past the Andromeda/Athabasca col, over the summit of Athabasca in blowing conditions and what he called "...very strong snow" and arrived back at the parking lot 45 hours after he had left.
There's more.
Moving north a bit, Frank then soloed the Robinson/Arbic on the North Face of Cromwell.
And more...
Next, he attempted the North Face of Alberta. Going up without a rope, Frank decided he didn't like the inconsistent nature of the rock band above the icefield, and so he traversed off the face and descended the NE ridge. As a consolation, he bagged the peak by the Japanese Route before returning to the highway.
And still more...
He drove to Jasper and had a look at the North Face of Edith Cavell, coming down because of wet rock and unconsolidated snow.
And finally.
Returning south past Mt. Kitchener, where he soloed the Grand Central Couloir - "Only to be climbed ven zer's eis..." - apparently spending over an hour tunneling through the summit cornice.
Wait...
After resting and cragging around Canmore for a few days, Frank decided that he wanted "...perhaps one more peak" before he headed home to Germany. When he showed up at Acephale around noon on Sunday, looking for Todd, we mercilessly insisted that he have a go on Mirror Stage 12b. Heh, heh. After all, we pointed out to this quiet little guy in the pilled fleece, there was already a rope on it; he might as well give it a shot. Protesting that he was "probably quite tired...", he dutifully pulled on a pair of shoes and sent the rig first try. A little while later, he did the same to Bleu du Ciel 12b, loosing his feet during the hideous sloper match at the crux and simply pulling up and locking off while he reached across for the next crimp edge in the sequence.
Now willing to let him be our friend, we engaged Frank in conversation. Turns out he had spent the day before climbing the Blanchard/Robinson on the North Face of Howse Peak, avoiding the A3 chimney and block via the ice in the gash out right (which he admitted was slow going and "very technical" [and which Peter Arbic, the only other person to go that way, reportedly characterizes as "Death" - ed.] and had been forced to sleep on the mountain that night, prior to descending and running up to meet us at the crag."
Dave Dornian
There is more...
From:
http://www.alpinist.com/
Frank Jourdan
Posted on: December 1, 2004
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP09/climbing-note-jourdan
The east face of Mt. Assiniboine, showing Cheesmond-Dick (V 5.9 A2, ca. 1200m, 1982). Frank Jourdan soloed the route in July for its second ascent. It was his third trip to Canada; in July 1994 he soloed a direct variant to Skyladder Direct, then climbed The Shooting Gallery, and then climbed The Andromeda Strain, all on Mt. Andromeda, car-to-car in forty-five hours. He then soloed the Robinson-Arbic on the north face of Cromwell. Next, after attempting the north face of Alberta, he climbed the Japanese Route; then attempted the North Face of Mt. Edith Cavell; then soloed the Grand Central Couloir on Mt. Kitchener; then soloed the Blanchard-Robinson on the north face of Howse Peak. His 2004 tour showed his enthusiasm to be undiminished. Photo courtesy of Raphael Slawinski
in his own words
"In July I traveled for the third time to Canada. In spite of bad conditions on the alpine faces I picked off a couple of good routes. After installing a bivy cache at Eiffel Lake I succeeded in climbing the Greenwood-Jones (V 5.8 A1, ca. 1400m, 1969) on the north face of Mt. Temple,
then, after a bivouac at the cache, the Supercouloir (IV 5.8, Lowe-Jones, ca. 1200m, 1973) on Mt. Deltaform (the final pitches of which are especially brittle).
Two and a half days later, when I was feeling more confident with this type of rock again, I headed to the glacier at the base of the east face of Assiniboine (the longest "twenty-kilometer" hike I ever did). This impressive mixed face was not in good shape either. After resting at the base I started climbing the Cheesmond-Dick (V 5.9 A2, ca. 1200m, 1982) at 2 a.m. I gained height pretty fast, but around 8:30 a.m. I got stuck just below the start of the upper, steeper sections because of intense rockfall. I searched for shelter and waited for dropping temperatures. At 4 p.m. (!) the rockfall abated and I kept going as fast as I could. In some sections, especially the steeper waterfall pitches, the snow and ice were almost gone. Therefore I was forced to climb very tricky, scary, loose and wet mixed terrain with sketchy pro. A ramp system and a traverse to the left leads to a steep rockface which is usually the crux, but, compared to the lower sections, the rock was not too bad. Using free, aid and drytool techniques I reached the easier exit slopes. A final, vertical, ice-and-soft-snow pitch through the cornice at the top made me shit my pants. The face took me thirteen hours to climb (with the stop, twenty-one hours). Another longtime dream was fulfilled.
After some rest days and a twelve-day visit to the remote Waddington Range, where I managed to solo three routes (the Flavelle-Lane route [TD+: 55 degrees 5.8, 980m] on Waddington; a possible new route [5.9+, ca. 650m], left of Perseverence, on the south face of Combatant; and the Southwest Face [TD+: 5.8, 1450m] on Tiedeman), I headed farther north to the main goal of the trip: the 2000-meter unclimbed northwest face of Devils Thumb, the ultimate challenge for a fast solo push. From Petersburg I flew in, highly excited to look at the face, but what a mess: there was no snow and ice at all, only very broken and chossy-looking rock (especially in the lower part). I realized that there is no way to climb this vertical quarry. I left for Canada, where I sat in my car near the river ready to start another attempt on the north face of Mt. Alberta (which I had attempted in 1994, failing below the upper rockband, which scared me too much at the time)—but I hesitated. The last weeks had hurt my knees and back painfully. The stress of being alone in a lot of scary situations had blown my mind, and I decided to not go: I was not motivated or calm enough any more. I started the car, anxious to get back to life, to my friends, to share my beloved red wine... and realizing that once again, I had been lucky to survive."
— Frank Jourdan, Pforzheim, Germany
Some holiday :)
And a bit of tongue in cheek when I say "brave than". Just wanted a little shock value as most haven't heard of, or understand Jordan's accomplishments in North America. Some perspective? Many of these climbs take a full day's walk just to get to the base. Most if not all, have rock much worse than on the Eiger. There are no trams, no cell service, no fixed gear with few climbers out compared to the Alps. And finally only the easier routes have seen much traffic. Almost everything Jordan did was an early solo ascent if not the 1st solo ascent. I've never heard of anything remotely comparable having been done by one climber in such a short amount of time in North America. You would have to look long and hard in the Alps to find anyone so eager, capable and most importantly committed today, let alone in 1994. Read on if you want to know more.
Pictures are literally only of Jourdan's "easy" routes from these trips!
Frank Jourdan?
David Dornian wrote the following about Frank Jourdan's summer for the Calgary Mountain Club World News' alpine report in 1994.
"A stiff little reminder of what can be accomplished when you put a few caffeine pills into your butt bag, hang a couple of ropes and your shoes off your harness, and get out whilst everyone else is still "waiting for things to come into condition"
What did YOU do on your summer vacation? In July, visiting German alpinist Frank Jourdan managed a quick two-week trip to the Canmore/Banff/Jasper corridor to finish off a North American tour.
Discovered sleeping in his car at the ACC clubhouse parking lot in Canmore, he was taken into town by staff, coffeed up, and the following amazing tale was extracted in halting English.
It seems that a few days previously, Frank had driven north to the Columbia Icefields where he soloed a route he referred to as "Skyladder Direct" on Mt. Andromeda. He then descended the line, crossed the glacier to the northeast, and ascended "The Shooting Gallery". From there, he traversed the summit of Andromeda, climbed down one of the "Practice Gullies" and moved across too the base of "The Andromeda Strain".
The gully of A-Strain
In the dark now, he ascended the "Strain" by headlamp, carried on past the Andromeda/Athabasca col, over the summit of Athabasca in blowing conditions and what he called "...very strong snow" and arrived back at the parking lot 45 hours after he had left.
There's more.
Moving north a bit, Frank then soloed the Robinson/Arbic on the North Face of Cromwell.
And more...
Next, he attempted the North Face of Alberta. Going up without a rope, Frank decided he didn't like the inconsistent nature of the rock band above the icefield, and so he traversed off the face and descended the NE ridge. As a consolation, he bagged the peak by the Japanese Route before returning to the highway.
And still more...
He drove to Jasper and had a look at the North Face of Edith Cavell, coming down because of wet rock and unconsolidated snow.
And finally.
Returning south past Mt. Kitchener, where he soloed the Grand Central Couloir - "Only to be climbed ven zer's eis..." - apparently spending over an hour tunneling through the summit cornice.
N. Face of Kitchner
Wait...
After resting and cragging around Canmore for a few days, Frank decided that he wanted "...perhaps one more peak" before he headed home to Germany. When he showed up at Acephale around noon on Sunday, looking for Todd, we mercilessly insisted that he have a go on Mirror Stage 12b. Heh, heh. After all, we pointed out to this quiet little guy in the pilled fleece, there was already a rope on it; he might as well give it a shot. Protesting that he was "probably quite tired...", he dutifully pulled on a pair of shoes and sent the rig first try. A little while later, he did the same to Bleu du Ciel 12b, loosing his feet during the hideous sloper match at the crux and simply pulling up and locking off while he reached across for the next crimp edge in the sequence.
Now willing to let him be our friend, we engaged Frank in conversation. Turns out he had spent the day before climbing the Blanchard/Robinson on the North Face of Howse Peak, avoiding the A3 chimney and block via the ice in the gash out right (which he admitted was slow going and "very technical" [and which Peter Arbic, the only other person to go that way, reportedly characterizes as "Death" - ed.] and had been forced to sleep on the mountain that night, prior to descending and running up to meet us at the crag."
Dave Dornian
There is more...
From:
http://www.alpinist.com/
Frank Jourdan
Posted on: December 1, 2004
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP09/climbing-note-jourdan
The east face of Mt. Assiniboine, showing Cheesmond-Dick (V 5.9 A2, ca. 1200m, 1982). Frank Jourdan soloed the route in July for its second ascent. It was his third trip to Canada; in July 1994 he soloed a direct variant to Skyladder Direct, then climbed The Shooting Gallery, and then climbed The Andromeda Strain, all on Mt. Andromeda, car-to-car in forty-five hours. He then soloed the Robinson-Arbic on the north face of Cromwell. Next, after attempting the north face of Alberta, he climbed the Japanese Route; then attempted the North Face of Mt. Edith Cavell; then soloed the Grand Central Couloir on Mt. Kitchener; then soloed the Blanchard-Robinson on the north face of Howse Peak. His 2004 tour showed his enthusiasm to be undiminished. Photo courtesy of Raphael Slawinski
in his own words
"In July I traveled for the third time to Canada. In spite of bad conditions on the alpine faces I picked off a couple of good routes. After installing a bivy cache at Eiffel Lake I succeeded in climbing the Greenwood-Jones (V 5.8 A1, ca. 1400m, 1969) on the north face of Mt. Temple,
2000m N. Face of Temple
then, after a bivouac at the cache, the Supercouloir (IV 5.8, Lowe-Jones, ca. 1200m, 1973) on Mt. Deltaform (the final pitches of which are especially brittle).
Dave Cheesmond photo of Tim Friesen on Deltaform's crux
Deltaform's 2000m N. face. Cheesmond's picture above is the last bit of rotten rock on top of that narrow ice gully.
Two and a half days later, when I was feeling more confident with this type of rock again, I headed to the glacier at the base of the east face of Assiniboine (the longest "twenty-kilometer" hike I ever did). This impressive mixed face was not in good shape either. After resting at the base I started climbing the Cheesmond-Dick (V 5.9 A2, ca. 1200m, 1982) at 2 a.m. I gained height pretty fast, but around 8:30 a.m. I got stuck just below the start of the upper, steeper sections because of intense rockfall. I searched for shelter and waited for dropping temperatures. At 4 p.m. (!) the rockfall abated and I kept going as fast as I could. In some sections, especially the steeper waterfall pitches, the snow and ice were almost gone. Therefore I was forced to climb very tricky, scary, loose and wet mixed terrain with sketchy pro. A ramp system and a traverse to the left leads to a steep rockface which is usually the crux, but, compared to the lower sections, the rock was not too bad. Using free, aid and drytool techniques I reached the easier exit slopes. A final, vertical, ice-and-soft-snow pitch through the cornice at the top made me shit my pants. The face took me thirteen hours to climb (with the stop, twenty-one hours). Another longtime dream was fulfilled.
After some rest days and a twelve-day visit to the remote Waddington Range, where I managed to solo three routes (the Flavelle-Lane route [TD+: 55 degrees 5.8, 980m] on Waddington; a possible new route [5.9+, ca. 650m], left of Perseverence, on the south face of Combatant; and the Southwest Face [TD+: 5.8, 1450m] on Tiedeman), I headed farther north to the main goal of the trip: the 2000-meter unclimbed northwest face of Devils Thumb, the ultimate challenge for a fast solo push. From Petersburg I flew in, highly excited to look at the face, but what a mess: there was no snow and ice at all, only very broken and chossy-looking rock (especially in the lower part). I realized that there is no way to climb this vertical quarry. I left for Canada, where I sat in my car near the river ready to start another attempt on the north face of Mt. Alberta (which I had attempted in 1994, failing below the upper rockband, which scared me too much at the time)—but I hesitated. The last weeks had hurt my knees and back painfully. The stress of being alone in a lot of scary situations had blown my mind, and I decided to not go: I was not motivated or calm enough any more. I started the car, anxious to get back to life, to my friends, to share my beloved red wine... and realizing that once again, I had been lucky to survive."
— Frank Jourdan, Pforzheim, Germany
Some holiday :)
Tuesday, August 16, 2011
The 2012 Batura 2.0 GTX?
This is just a teaser as the newest 2012 version of the Batura just showed up on FED EX and I wanted to share!
Of course I think La Sportiva has some amazing designers. The newest version and the "Super Gater" clearly show cases that. We were adding Velcro and zippers on our Super Gaters back in the mid '70s. And most importantly none of us ever had a failure. Labor intensive so it adds to the price but a "good step" in the right direction I think.
More to come with a side by side comparison of the current Batura Evo and this ne 2.0 version that will be available in the Spring of 2012. But first impression? I had admittedly scoffed at the title "Batura 2.0." Adding Goretex to a old boot design doesn't make it a "new" boot. But it seems this is a total rebuild not just a glossy new paint job. It may look like a Batura but my impression is we have a new player here not just a few fancy cosmetic improvements. The under 900g weight per boot should be a head turner for those that keep count! And it would seem an even more rigid midsole than the previous boots. Hopefully I'll have some details from both Gore and La Sportiva to fill in the cracks I miss on the newest boot.
I've been duped by early prodction prototypes before. Hopefully this boot will prove that theory wrong.
Till then enjoy the pictures and think..... ICE :)
Of course I think La Sportiva has some amazing designers. The newest version and the "Super Gater" clearly show cases that. We were adding Velcro and zippers on our Super Gaters back in the mid '70s. And most importantly none of us ever had a failure. Labor intensive so it adds to the price but a "good step" in the right direction I think.
More to come with a side by side comparison of the current Batura Evo and this ne 2.0 version that will be available in the Spring of 2012. But first impression? I had admittedly scoffed at the title "Batura 2.0." Adding Goretex to a old boot design doesn't make it a "new" boot. But it seems this is a total rebuild not just a glossy new paint job. It may look like a Batura but my impression is we have a new player here not just a few fancy cosmetic improvements. The under 900g weight per boot should be a head turner for those that keep count! And it would seem an even more rigid midsole than the previous boots. Hopefully I'll have some details from both Gore and La Sportiva to fill in the cracks I miss on the newest boot.
I've been duped by early prodction prototypes before. Hopefully this boot will prove that theory wrong.
Till then enjoy the pictures and think..... ICE :)
GORETEX
Batura II, Batura Evo, Phantom Ultra
Monday, August 15, 2011
Saturday, August 13, 2011
More on rockered skis...
This is a good read. Should be no surprise why I like the La Sportiva Hi5 so much...with a 410cm of rocker on tips on my 188s. The lwt weight and straight tail profile I like even better in the back country.
http://skitheory.blogspot.com/2011/08/dps-wailer-112-rp-ski-review.html
Not everything is rockered on this list some simply have an early rise tip which isn't the same as rockered but it makes decent comparison, I think. All are great ski in my opinion
Mustagh SL 187cm 6lb 9oz 122-88-111 early rise tip
Aspect 186cm 7 lb 2 oz* 130 / 90 / 117 trad tip profile
Drift 186 cm 7 lb 10 oz 138/ 100/ 123 early rise tip
Hi5 188cm 8lb 10oz* 135 / 105 / 125 410mm rockered tip, straight and square cut tail
Stoke 191cm 7 lb 14oz 134 / 108 / 122 early rise tip
Wailer Carbon 190cm 8lb* 141/ 112 / 128 450mm rocker tip and 400mm rockered tail
Megawatt 188cm 11 lb 4 oz 151-125-131 rockered tip and semi rockered tail
* actual weights of my skis, not the factory numbers
For a side country and lift ski I'll have a review up on the DPS Wailer 112 Carbon when the snow flies again.
More on my thoughts of another seriously fun rockered ski.
http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/06/la-sportiva-hi5-skis.html
http://skitheory.blogspot.com/2011/08/dps-wailer-112-rp-ski-review.html
Not everything is rockered on this list some simply have an early rise tip which isn't the same as rockered but it makes decent comparison, I think. All are great ski in my opinion
Mustagh SL 187cm 6lb 9oz 122-88-111 early rise tip
Aspect 186cm 7 lb 2 oz* 130 / 90 / 117 trad tip profile
Drift 186 cm 7 lb 10 oz 138/ 100/ 123 early rise tip
Hi5 188cm 8lb 10oz* 135 / 105 / 125 410mm rockered tip, straight and square cut tail
Stoke 191cm 7 lb 14oz 134 / 108 / 122 early rise tip
Wailer Carbon 190cm 8lb* 141/ 112 / 128 450mm rocker tip and 400mm rockered tail
Megawatt 188cm 11 lb 4 oz 151-125-131 rockered tip and semi rockered tail
* actual weights of my skis, not the factory numbers
For a side country and lift ski I'll have a review up on the DPS Wailer 112 Carbon when the snow flies again.
More on my thoughts of another seriously fun rockered ski.
http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/06/la-sportiva-hi5-skis.html
For those that wonder..
http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1030762/Re_Mega_gear_sale#Post1030762
Thursday, August 11, 2011
Wednesday, August 10, 2011
Adventure?
I get a little stuck at times between work, family and life. I really just want to play full time. Love this video because it reminds me, of me some times. Love the snow board scene ...although I prefer skis :)
Ya, what the hell! I entered as well. Now I just have to figure out what to do with our crazy dog when I win! Like that should be a big worry.
http://www.sierradesigns.com/ayearofadventure.aspx
Little confusing when you read the contest info but I was assured the guide services and lodging are covered during the trips. But never hurts to ask again when you win!
Ecuador is a 12 day trip.
Everest is a 24 day trip
Alaska is 5 days of Heli Skiing
Good luck!
Ya, what the hell! I entered as well. Now I just have to figure out what to do with our crazy dog when I win! Like that should be a big worry.
http://www.sierradesigns.com/ayearofadventure.aspx
Little confusing when you read the contest info but I was assured the guide services and lodging are covered during the trips. But never hurts to ask again when you win!
Ecuador is a 12 day trip.
Everest is a 24 day trip
Alaska is 5 days of Heli Skiing
Good luck!
Sunday, August 7, 2011
Summer OR 2011 wrap up?
Rafal has done a nice job covering most of the alpine climber's interests. (look at the link below) It is summer after all, not much new for the alpine. But what is new is pretty exciting. Look for indepth field tests and written reviews on almost everything Rafal has mentioned ASAP. The idea is to get the word out before the first big freeze of fall. The Salewa Pro Gaiter and the third generation Batura (they call it #2 but that is incorrect) will be up first It should be a good comparison. Gen. three La Sportiva against the new kid on the block for technical Mtn boots, Salewa.
The new Lynx crampon from Petzl looks even better in person than on paper. Those I already know I want! Big raves from the last year's prototypes I am told. Just too many options to ignore in the new design that no one had yet put in a single package, until now. And a reasonable retail of $240. Not the $300+ I was first quoted, thank goodness! Petzl has upped the game again by all accounts.
My list of winners is La Sportiva's newest Batura, Petzl of course ( new 'pons and the Nomic and Ergo are BACK!) as always and the new blushing bride, Salewa's alpine boots are hopeful.
Rafal, thanks for a well written, detailed update.
http://rafalandronowski.wordpress.com/2011/08/07/or-summer-market-2011-report/
The new Lynx crampon from Petzl looks even better in person than on paper. Those I already know I want! Big raves from the last year's prototypes I am told. Just too many options to ignore in the new design that no one had yet put in a single package, until now. And a reasonable retail of $240. Not the $300+ I was first quoted, thank goodness! Petzl has upped the game again by all accounts.
My list of winners is La Sportiva's newest Batura, Petzl of course ( new 'pons and the Nomic and Ergo are BACK!) as always and the new blushing bride, Salewa's alpine boots are hopeful.
Rafal, thanks for a well written, detailed update.
http://rafalandronowski.wordpress.com/2011/08/07/or-summer-market-2011-report/
Beware the Punter! A cautionary tale.
On the then unclimbed N. Face of Mt Hunter, Alaska 1981
Punter (plural punters)
1.One who bets (punts) against the bank (banque).
If you don't know what you are capable of, one way to find out is to bounce your head off a few projects and see what sticks. Risky business if you are looking for what is possible while alpine climbing. You could end up dead even if you do get up a new line or two and do everything right. You are rolling the dice every time you go out...but you do that going to the corner store as well. More than today at the store than back in '81 it might seem.
You try to limit the odds by experience.
None of these if you are looking for something new. You'll have to write your own when you are done.
Bradley topo courtesy of Mark Allen
Strong has no excuse...
Yes, I did see that on a T shirt yesterday.
In 1981, I had already climbed in the Alaska Range 3 times and done a couple of minor first ascents. But I thought we were prepared technically by climbing harder technical ground in other parts of the world. My partner this time had already done the S. Face of Denali, a route on Foraker and he had solo'ed the N face of the Matterhorn. More importantly he was hungry for more.
Together we had done climbs in the valley in a quick day that seemed pretty good. We were convinced we really rocked! Truth is we were punters :)
When we helped Mugs and Paul over the 'shrund that morning we were pretty much kitted the same with two glaring exceptions. One was visible and one wasn't. The most powerful tool we were missing was a duplicate of Mug's experience and mind set. Like having an over grown Ueli Steck as you partner. Ya, we lacked that :) Not to say either Brad and I were gumbies, we weren't. The other thing I left behind was a set of ice tools capable on hard Alaskan ice.
I bet there are few rolling their eyes on that one. I still do.
I though I knew my shit. But I didn't.
Brad reminded me after 30 years..not so gently that I had a "small issue at home", a pending divorce.
Never good for the mind. But here is the real truth or at least part of the truth. I got scared.
More than one rather speedy modern day alpinist has been brought to reality of the climbing on the North Butt. The realization, if you aren't up to climbing fast, you are going to spend some miserable nights out. That hasn't changed. The fact that some accept the top of the Butt, with still a full 1000m of climbing as the goal, has.
Photo courtesy of Will Sim
Jon going old school here on Hunter with no tent. And suffering through the coldest hours of the twilight night.
The tools? Ya, I know. Which is one reason I write this blog. In 1980 I sewed much of my own gear and tools were changing almost by the month. I figured any tool would work. How hard can alpine ice be?
Imagine taking a set of randonee race axes on steep, colfd, hard ice. Possible but not reassuring.
I had just climbed one of the longest water falls in the world. No water falls on Hunter. (roll of eyes here) Lwt tools that I could easily plunge make sense...or so I thought. How bad could the ice climbing be on the Butt?
The answer? Bad enough.
And no plunging required.
Mark Twight and Scott Backes do the climb, Deprivation, in
a single round trip push, 13 years later after extended schooling on Chamonix granite and the correct mind set.
Below is the crux where Brad and I bailed in the first rock band (and I got scared) and now known at the "death pitch" 30 years later. I could see that whipper coming. I had no intention of earning my alpine wings there and wanted no part of it. A few 50m rappels soon followed.
http://www.colinhaley.blogspot.com/
http://www.alpineaddiction.no/
Strike One..unsettled mind
Stike Two...the wrong bit of kit
Strike Three..the reality of a bad night out
The Banque wins! A hard lesson but we lived to play another day.
The divorce was final a few months later.
Strong has no excuse!
And very likely something Mugs would have gotten a good laugh from!
Take only what you need and ignore the rest.
The scene of the crime in May 1981
Old rock!
It is August after all and I thought we could afford a tiny break from crampons and all this talk of past skiing and ice on the way. Hopefully no one will be too offended. Dbl click for full value.
Couple of friends on "Illusions", 11a, a stellar thin crack climb I did a life time or so ago.. It is a perfect 0 TCU crack. Just scanned in 300 slides and negatives from climbing in the 70s and 80s. Only another 500 or so more to go. Got a look at climbs I have forgotten even existed let alone stuff I had done. I'll add a few of the better ones when I get time. Dbl click the photos for full value.
Another thin crack crux and another favorite climb of mine, "Rock 106" .11c face, bolted. Wendy leading again.
This is where I first put on my big boy pants. Max on the 2nd ascent of "Yahoody".11b, Hands, fingers and fists. No one gets left out here. You'll have to excuse the tights :) Six years previous Darcy and I did the first ascent. A big adventure in *many* ways in 1980. Likely the purest line I have done and some of the most beautiful rock. Back then it was jeans, a tee shirt and EBs.
Thursday, August 4, 2011
Mtn Hardware and the Ueli Steck connection?
This is interesting and worth clicking on and taking in the video.
Creating the Ultimate Alpine Speed Climbing Kit from Mountain Hardwear on Vimeo.
Creating the Ultimate Alpine Speed Climbing Kit from Mountain Hardwear on Vimeo.
Salewa's new Pro Series Alpine climbing boots.....
This one looks pretty slick at first glance but so does the La Sportiva Batura, Zamberland's 4000 Eiger, the Kayland 6001 or the Scarpa Phanom Ultra and Phantom Guide.
But this boot does something no other boot to day will......look closer.
Make sure to dbl click on all the photos for full effect.
,
But this boot does something no other boot to day will......look closer.
For those that read the blog on a regular basis it is obvious I am into the fit and the design concepts of mountain boots. I had thought that I had either seen or dreamt about every boot technology currently possible. Boy was I ever naive! I have been pushing for and thinking about a concept boot with the ability to climb like say a Batura on mixed, a Spantik on ice and ski as well as a TLT5 Perf. and be as warm as a new Scarpa 6000 dbl boot. All while be lighter than any of them and have a lower foot profile It is a tall order that I don't expect to see any time soon. But you never know when you might be surprised by this industry!
One of the things I have long thought about and recently discussed with my podiatrist is the damage a soft cuffed and rigid soled mtn. boot does to your feet. Having already climbed in that style boot for several decades I didn't see any options available and to be honest figured having a rigid sole was mandatory and if my feet suffered long term, so be it. Just part of the price we pay.
Then earlier this week I got a few pictures and a tease about the basic idea behind the newest Salewa Pro Series of boots.
There are no samples available yet to play with but my take this far is. "very cool!"
Here is why. A sole that you are suppose to be able to change the flex on? Say what? A boot you can use and walk with in comfort. Virtually "flip a lever" and have a rigid boot sole for technical climbing, skiing or crampons and ice?
It sounds like science fiction to be honest and I can't read the printed pictured clearly so I am guessing on most of this past what I have been told.. But the technology is simply amazing if it proves workable. Imagine a boot you can easily do a long walking approach and then flip a lever and have a dead rigid boot sole for either a ice climb or a ski boot if that was required?
I'll reserve judgement until I get to use a pair. But this is definitely technology I have never even dreamed about. May be you have. Obviously some one has! I am really looking forward to getting out to climb and walk in a pair.
,
The Pro Gaiter
This is a single boot with a built in gaiter like a Phantom Guide, Kayland 6001 or the Batura.
Salewa claims this one as the "new bench mark for high level mountaineering and ice climbing". Bold statement indeed. I am looking forward to adding to that theory as a end user. Unknown water proof breathable material in the gaiter, Thinsulate for insulation and a T-Zip. It is a good start.
The Pro Guide
The Pro Guide should be very similar to the Nepal Evo or Mt Blanc.
If you are at OR, better stop by and look at this one today. I'm impressed but let me know your thoughts on this one.
Tuesday, August 2, 2011
Summer OR show SLC 8/3 through 8/7 2011
I'm not posting live from the summer OR show as I have done at the winter shows in the past. But obviously a few things are leaking out. The Blue Ice Warthog pack and the Petzl Lynx crampon are two early examples. There is more to come. Old and new technology being show cased. Pictured are some wild ones and some old stand bys from the past and a few current "game changers" thrown in. Just to get the process going :)
I am sworn to secrecy for a few more days. But I have to say...some of this stuff I hadn't even dreamed of yet. And that is a long list of gear dreams when you start talking about ice gear and technical boots.
The Summer OR Show gives retailers a chance to see what will be available for Spring 2012 delivery and in some rare instances a few things that will be available for Fall 11. But most new Fall items are generally shown at the winter OR show the previous Jan. Delivery for the Winter OR show is Fall of that year, a full 9 months later. So Winter OR 2012 will show clothing, ski and climbing gear available in the stores the Fall of 2012. Summer OR shows the summer sporting goods and clothing that will be available in the spring of the following year. Hopefully that makes sense.
More to come by the end of the week.
The Summer OR Show gives retailers a chance to see what will be available for Spring 2012 delivery and in some rare instances a few things that will be available for Fall 11. But most new Fall items are generally shown at the winter OR show the previous Jan. Delivery for the Winter OR show is Fall of that year, a full 9 months later. So Winter OR 2012 will show clothing, ski and climbing gear available in the stores the Fall of 2012. Summer OR shows the summer sporting goods and clothing that will be available in the spring of the following year. Hopefully that makes sense.
More to come by the end of the week.
Monday, August 1, 2011
New Petzl Lynx Crampon!
This should stoke up the ice and alpine climbers
The new Lynx crampons from Petzl offers a forged and easily replaceable monopoint or dual point option all done with a single bolt and spacer size with nothing else to cut or "screw" around with! And they are about to be introduced here in North America later this week. Typical Petzl design quality. Some cool innovations like having the option of two sets of boot toe attachment systems with the same crampon. Mono point can be centered or off set, your choice! The front points (single or dbl) can also be adjusted forwards or back or off set, along with two versions of the toe bail. Much lighter as well than the past M10 version. And a much better bott system than the M10. Although I haven't had a chance to weigh a pair yet likely the lightest crampon on the market with replaceable forged front points. Better yet IMO a full set of 12 (yes twelve) down points in addition to the forged front points. Full botts as well. Finally a company did it all in one package! Petzl has just upped the game, again!
I'll do a complete review once I get my hands on a pair! (or even better a pair on my boots ;) Delivery should be Nov. 2011, may be even a bit earlier! Retail is being quoted currently @ $240.
Reported weights are:
1080 g (configuration with two points and ANTISNOW)
910 g (configuration with one point, no ANTISNOW)
And the the obvious rivals that will be slugging it out next winter. And a previous review of the newest BD Stinger here:
http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/01/preview-of-fall-2011-black-diamond.html?showComment=1313220566067#c8734409473319898100
Modular crampon for ice and mixed climbing, with new LEVERLOCK universal bindings
From snow couloirs to dry tooling, the LYNX is a versatile crampon. Modular front points allow for many options: dual or mono-point, long or short, and/or asymmetrical. They come with two types of interchangeable front bindings to adapt to boots with or without toe welts.
Selling points:
• Versatile crampons for ice and mixed climbing
• Configuration and length of front points can be modified with one screw:
dual points in short, long or asymmetrical position
offset mono-point in short or long position
• Crampons adaptable to boots with or without toe welts:
interchangeable front bindings: stainless steel toe bail wires for shoes with toe welts, or flexible “Flexlock” style toe bindings for boots without toe welts both types of toe bindings can be adjusted to accommodate shoe width and provide sufficient point length
• LEVERLOCK heel bail is height-adjustable, designed for boots with heel welt
• Integrated front and rear ANTISNOW plates
• FAKIR carrying pouch included
• Marked bars facilitate crampon adjustment
• Comes with:
FAKIR carrying bag (V01)
front and rear ANTISNOW (T24960)
flexible front binding
stainless steel wire heel bail
Product specifications:
Number of points: 14
Boot sizes: 35 to 45 with M linking bar (included), optional L linking bar fits boots sizes 40 to 50 (T20850)
Weight: 2 x 540 g = 1080 g (configuration with two points and ANTISNOW)
2 x 455 g = 910 g (configuration with one point, no ANTISNOW)
Certification(s): CE, UIAA
The new Lynx crampons from Petzl offers a forged and easily replaceable monopoint or dual point option all done with a single bolt and spacer size with nothing else to cut or "screw" around with! And they are about to be introduced here in North America later this week. Typical Petzl design quality. Some cool innovations like having the option of two sets of boot toe attachment systems with the same crampon. Mono point can be centered or off set, your choice! The front points (single or dbl) can also be adjusted forwards or back or off set, along with two versions of the toe bail. Much lighter as well than the past M10 version. And a much better bott system than the M10. Although I haven't had a chance to weigh a pair yet likely the lightest crampon on the market with replaceable forged front points. Better yet IMO a full set of 12 (yes twelve) down points in addition to the forged front points. Full botts as well. Finally a company did it all in one package! Petzl has just upped the game, again!
I'll do a complete review once I get my hands on a pair! (or even better a pair on my boots ;) Delivery should be Nov. 2011, may be even a bit earlier! Retail is being quoted currently @ $240.
Reported weights are:
1080 g (configuration with two points and ANTISNOW)
910 g (configuration with one point, no ANTISNOW)
Shown above for an easy comparison is the earlier Petzl M10 that is now discontinued.
http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/01/preview-of-fall-2011-black-diamond.html?showComment=1313220566067#c8734409473319898100
This follow up came later from Petzl:
The new Lynx crampon from Petzl offers a forged and easily replaceable monopoint or dual point. The Lynx will replace the M10. A much lighter replacement and should make a lot of people happy.
Modular crampon for ice and mixed climbing, with new LEVERLOCK universal bindings
From snow couloirs to dry tooling, the LYNX is a versatile crampon. Modular front points allow for many options: dual or mono-point, long or short, and/or asymmetrical. They come with two types of interchangeable front bindings to adapt to boots with or without toe welts.
Selling points:
• Versatile crampons for ice and mixed climbing
• Configuration and length of front points can be modified with one screw:
dual points in short, long or asymmetrical position
offset mono-point in short or long position
• Crampons adaptable to boots with or without toe welts:
interchangeable front bindings: stainless steel toe bail wires for shoes with toe welts, or flexible “Flexlock” style toe bindings for boots without toe welts both types of toe bindings can be adjusted to accommodate shoe width and provide sufficient point length
• LEVERLOCK heel bail is height-adjustable, designed for boots with heel welt
• Integrated front and rear ANTISNOW plates
• FAKIR carrying pouch included
• Marked bars facilitate crampon adjustment
• Comes with:
FAKIR carrying bag (V01)
front and rear ANTISNOW (T24960)
flexible front binding
stainless steel wire heel bail
Product specifications:
Number of points: 14
Boot sizes: 35 to 45 with M linking bar (included), optional L linking bar fits boots sizes 40 to 50 (T20850)
Weight: 2 x 540 g = 1080 g (configuration with two points and ANTISNOW)
2 x 455 g = 910 g (configuration with one point, no ANTISNOW)
Certification(s): CE, UIAA
Saturday, July 30, 2011
Blue Ice, the new Warthog alpine pack!
Finally back to some alpine climbing content! It is almost August after all...skiing has to stop some time right? Well for the moment anyway...I want another run from the top of Rainier before I am done skiing for the season!
If you have seen this:
http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/01/my-climbing-pack.html
You know I am into really basic climbing packs. And I continue to use really simple climbing packs. Once in awhile I get side tracked and try the newest options that interest me. Of course I have used the older Blue Ice packs, the 45, the 30 and the Mono among others. But I am pretty set in what I think works.
The Mono has kept my attention but I've been too lazy to get that review done. Some how it seems a conflict of interest since I sell Blue Ice gear as well. And the fact my wife has stolen my personal Mono. Hard to write it up. I'll work on that review when she is out of town and I have my hands on the Mono again.
But the new Warthog is hard to ignore (as you can see by the color). No way anyone is sneaking this one off without me knowing. So I am going to give you my take on it now before it happens.
If you look at the custom CCW packs I have Randy make for myself (30L) you'll likely notice the similarities of the Blue Ice Warthog (27L) my custom packs and the original, stellar CCW Ozone. First is they are very close in size, with the Warthog being the smallest of the bunch.. Second they are are really simple packs with very complicated and intricate patterns, which takes a high degree of skill to sew.
I'd really like to take credit for some of the Warthogs design work. But sadly I can't. Not even a tiny bit. I first saw the early prototypes of the Warthog at the Blue Ice offices last March. I was impressed then because it is a pack I might have designed if given the chance. More impressed now that I have one in hand.
I probably mentioned this once before. Back in March one of my partners was looking in Snell's (all over Cham actually) for a new climbing pack. Randy wasn't interested in more pia custom work. So Matt was out of luck on a custom CCW piece. Of the two walls full of new packs at Snells' only one Grivel and one Blue Ice offering interested him. Which should tell you a lot about the currently available climbing packs. He made a trip to the Grivel factory first. And his choice in packs was eventually found worthy on the Ginat among other climbs that winter and spring.
As good as the pack he has is, too bad he didn't get to see this one.
I try lots out a lot of gear. But having a full set of made to order custom sacs kinda limits my interest in other climbing sacs. It isn't easy to live up to my admittedly harsh and very critical standards for a climbing pack. I have put a lot of thought and money into what best works for me. There is no reason to take second best into the mtns.
Enter the newest, Blue Ice pack, the Warthog!
Love the color. I Iike that the pack is small, light and simple. It actually fills the "small pack" gap in my pack line up. Same kind of sac both Randy and I like a lot but no one seems to be able to sell consistently. Good shoulder straps on this one and a easily adjustable sternum strap on sliders.
the Sternum straps misaligned on purpose
Two different thicknesses on the foam used in the shoulder strap. The thicker stuff is set high in the strap where it can take the bulk of the load. Straps are attached to the bag via small wings sewn to the pack body. And sewn cord loops on the straps as well. Nice detail. The narrow and unpadded waist belt is tape with a buckle and easily removable. The perfect choice for this pack. The bottom of the bag is reinforced but not dbl. layered. All the tie in points are reinforced and ARE dbl layered. Nice detailing. I'll say that a lot in this review. It is worth repeating.
reinforced sewing and taped seams
All the seams are taped internally. Shoulder straps tighten by pulling them down. There is a full size (water bladder) internal hydration pocket that has been pleated and bellowed. It makes a full badder easy to fit.
Hydration pocket and more taped seams
Again nice detailing. A Velcro hydration hose holder as well.
Thin foam pad is sewn into the pack. Call it a bivy pad or just pack padding. Either would be accurate. But it is not removable.
The packs back has a definitive "S" cut to the back panel. Huge advantage for fit on a simple climbing pack.
The rather pronounced S shaped bottom of the back panel from the side
Single lid strap for hold down. Lid is sewn on tightly to the pack's top hem. And the straps are the right length. Elastic keepers on every strap, shoulders, waist and lid. Another great detail. Lid is perfectly sized to cover a fully loaded pack with the skirt drawn tight. None of this stuff is easy to do or more importantly, easy to do right. There is a hole for your hydration hose through both pack and lid. And a single rope strap that is fixed via a Fast Tex style nylon buckles made by Duraflex. Pack is actually sewn in Vietnam under Blue Ice's and Giovanni's personal supervision.. The lid has three (yes three) pockets all YKK zippers Two of them are on the out side and one underneath the lid.
The small back pocket also holds a net of sorts that is easy to deploy or store back in the pocket when not in use. It is made to attach your helmet easily to a full pack. Helmets aren't the only item the net will hold, just the most obvious. Jackets pants, skins or crampons can just as easily be stashed under the net Slick design work on this one. Did I mention I like the color combo. It is going to be great for pictures :)
The "hair net" on top of the pack
Crampons can go under the lid, with the rope strap holding them in place with the pack body offering some protection from sharp points. There are two traditional ice axe holders on the pack..both with reinforced dbl layering sewn through attachments. Easy enough to securely lash on a tool a little less traditional. A small quick link in place of the mini biners would be even cleaner but I was going with a quick "green" solution. A little imagination here will go far if you are using the newest technical tools. Should be little worry on that one.
Wow! Some sweet looking Nomic hammers there :)
The pack closes on a 3" skirt with a single draw string closure. The haul loop is flat 3/4" nylon tape that is folded in thirds and sewn to make an easier to manage haul loop which can be connected to the axe upper tabs as well for a 3 point lift. Again a nice detail. The back panel on my early production pack is a full 18". Surprisingly, it is a size I can work with on this pack. Long shoulder straps and a good pattern on the back panel allow it to fit my long back.
Short or tall most will be able to get a good fit with this pack. It is a climbing pack, and there is plenty of head clearance while looking up with the helmet of your choice when the pack is fully loaded up.
Cost: 78 Euro
Directly from Blue Ice (it should be close to that here in the US)
Weight is 1# 10.4oz or 750g...on my digital scale. Right on!
Pack material is Cordura, with a pack cloth externally and a smother material against your back and skin on the shoulders.
I can carry 20 to 25 lbs this one. That is more than I want to climb with for weight. Less is always better given the option.
Rope strap, hydration hose hole and short skirt
How big is 27 Liters? The pack will just hold two 60m 10.5 ropes in the main bag. With two ropes you can still get the cuff closed, if only barely. A one liter water bottle, will fit in the top lid pocket with a tiny bit of space to spare for the odd packet of GU to keep you running or the odd bite to eat if you pack small. Pull out the net for your helmet or other pieces of gear/clothing as required.
John Bouchard BITD with a Karrimore climbing a new mixed route on the Grands Charmoz, August 1975 with Steve Zajchowski.
I need to add a few words about Blue Ice. I am pretty sure everyone in the office climbs. Easy when you live and work in the best alpine climbing environment i nthe world! Easy to see the influence by the design work, like the Boa, the Chouca and now the Warthog that the designers know what they are looking for. By my acocunt some serious energy and effort went into this pack. It is the first off the shelf, production, alpine pack I have seen in several decades that I will climb with. For those that do remember the old Karrimore Joe Brown pack or a Chouinard Fish pack, the Warthog is better done than either and in modern materials but very similar for what they were designed for. It is a simple sac. And for those that actually know what it is to be used for (single push alpinism) it is simply a stellar design, with a great attention to detail and sewn very well. It is obvious to me it comes from a group of climbers serious about making good kit...not just any bit of kit. Bravo to Blue Ice for the effort!
http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/02/light-is-always-right-part-duex.html
The party line?
Weight:
720 gr. (mine came out a bit more @ 750g)
Features:
■helmet holder
■top lid with external & internal pocket
■chest buckle with security whistle
■rope attachment under the lid
■dual ice axe holders
■hydration-compatible
■removeable hipbelt
■safety pocket with key holder
Finishing:
■high quality Duraflex buckles
■durable YKK zipper
Fabrics/material:
Main: 500 denier CORDURA®
Reinforced bottom: 1000 denier CORDURA®
Lining: Nylon ripstop 210D
To build a highly resistant pack we have chosen to work with CORDURA®. CORDURA® is one of the most durable nylon fabric manufactured to date and it is widely used for high end applications and for producing gear where tearing and abrasion resistance are crucial. Moreover, the CORDURA® we use, is certified by Blue Sign, which is an important factor for our philosophy of minimizing our impact on the environment. Read more about CORDURA® on our technologies page.
Product overview:Minimalist backpack for fast and demanding one day ascents.
Design & features:The Warthog 26L is a light, extremely resistant backpack with all the essential accessories you need and nothing more. This is the ideal backpack for light and fast one day climbs on technical routes: it is compact to allow freedom of movement and it is super resistant for the most demanding conditions.
As the larger Blue Ice packs the Warthog can hold two ice axes. The simple system of webbing loops and cord locks allows not only a quick attachment but also a steady hold. Additional features are rope holder, helmet holder, exit for hydration tube and a removable hip belt.
Thanks to its stability, shape, volume and comfort it has proven an excellent pack not only for climbing but also for back country days when skis are to be kept on the feet during the whole ascent.
Ideal uses: single day climbs, mountaineering
(Agreed 100% btw on that observation and bet you'll see some Cham ski guides using the Warthog next winter. Might be a wise color choice if so ; )
No way it could be just this easy though to put ski on this pack...or could it? My Se7en Summits strapped right on like the Warthog was made for them. Next test is to see if the axe loops can haul a 6# ski set up.
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