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Monday, January 10, 2011

My climbing pack?

I have gotten a number of emails asking me to be more specific on my own climbing pack design that Randy sews for me @ Cold Cold World.

These are the specs off the Spectra Ripstop version of the Ozone:


Pack weighs in at less than 1.5 #. Material is Spectra ripstop. Shoulder harness is off a full size CCW pack for the extra padding required on heavier loads. Some where above a 35L in my 21" back size.

Pack weight goes up as you add material weight.  Same pack in the red ballistics nylon shown in the pictures is 2.5#.   Better weigh your own pack if the maker published the weight.  I found one of the current manufactures a full 1/2#  heavier than advertised on their "2 LB" 210d Dyneema Ripstop, 30L sack with a 17" back panel.  I use a quality digital postal scale which seems to help.  My packs have a 21" back panel and the weights published above are those pack's actual weights in Spectra and Ballistics nylon.  No gimics.

(details)
Custom sizing (which everyone should do if it is available to you)
custom pattern originally based on the Ozone size but with a bigger more oblong bottom
2 liter+ water bottle size top pocket
2nd zippered pocket in bottom of the lid with key holder
Zippers reversed on the pockets for use on hanging belays
pull down shoulder straps instead of "pull up"
main bag has a zippered "guide book" pocket...I use it for food and a head lamp generally
covered lid buckle which protects it while being hauled
removable foam pad
oversize shoulder straps for the extra weight when required
Perlon haul loop which is easier to clip on and off the anchor in difficult stances
dbl strap patches on lid  (which I have yet to  use but couldn't live with out)
dbl rope straps across the top of the pack, attaches ropes or tools just as easily
dbl bottom
10" extension with draw string
lid is extendable and or removable
bar tacked daisy chain on the bottom of the lid strap

There are no other attachment points on the pack...everything including, helmet, tools and crampons go inside the pack.  You are forced to pack light.

I generally climb with the pack without the lid.  If the lid is attached, it is likely stuck down inside the pack while climbing.

I've been using this "same" pack for years in many different and seemingly unlikely places.  Randy's version is the best of those packs for my own use.

Sitting on a similar sized pack, during a quick ascent of the West Buttress of Denali in the late 70's, using three pin skinny skis below 11K.




Bottom pattern shape we ended up using for more comfort and volume is the larger orange pack.   Shown with an earlier smaller CCW prototype.

Final pattern for the bottom panel of these packs.



Internal, 8" x9"  pocket in the main sac.  The higher, second zipper is the foam pad pocket.


Sewn on Ozone lid and an the extendable lid version I prefer with Velcro showing on the right.



Loaded and slightly extended, with tools strapped across the top under the lid.  The tools also easily fit inside the pack as well...as hard as that may be to believe.


In all the pack is very simple.  But it is the detailing and attention to details when it is being sewn that makes the pack so awesome for my own use.  The internal pocket for a bit of food or gel and a head lamp as an example,  the extra thick, full size shoulder straps, the easily accessed and manipulated haul loop, the clean design when you need to haul, the easy extendable or removable lid, the small unpadded wings to give extra support on the hip belt when needed with heavier loads.
 
who, what and where:
 
Randy Rackliff  @ Cold Cold World  603 383 9021
 
http://www.coldcoldworldpacks.com/

8 comments:

Anonymous said...

Does it come with rope strap or do you put rope inside? Why not just ask CCW to sewn on ice tools holders?

Dane said...

I have two rope straps sewn on. Generally I'll put ropes on top of the pack or ropes and my tools.

Just depends how much you are packing. I've also put everything including the ropes (twins) in the pack.

I prefer a clean pack as they last longer if you have to haul them. So no tool, crampon or ski attachments. It is an acquired taste.

Anonymous said...

Question for you- I've been thinking about using your pattern at CCW to sew a pack for me. Why did you go with the tear drop/pear shape as opposed to the cylindrical shape that the Ozone has? Also, how do you think the oblong shape would for a tall thin person? And, did you have Randy make a pack for you in red Cordura or the gray/black pattern rip stop I see in this blog entry? Thanks! Brian

Dane said...

I have found the pear shape carries much better. Took me using the original Ozone pattern for a while to realise that fact.

The real trick is to get the pack to fit you. Order the right size to fit your back. If you do that the pear shape will carry better.

I had a friend recently tell me that he wanted a climbing pack to carry above his harness. I don't. I do want my climbing pack to carry well with or without a harness on. I seldom (if ever) use a waist belt when climbing but do use the sternum strap. But going in and out of climbs I do use the waist belt.

I have both a red codura pack and a black rip stop one in the exact same patetrn. Worse yet I have another one on order in a different fabric, yet to be delivered ;-).

kinsan said...

Thanks Dane! You rock! Yeah, I have been experimenting with various packs over the years and I'm still looking for "the one." Thanks for the tips, I'm going to have Randy sew one in the standard red with the larger bottom as you suggested. I'll let you know how it works out. I may have him had some compression straps- I often don't carry a full load and don;t want it flopping around. Thanks! Brian

brian p. harder said...

Shit, Dane. I had no idea Randy was still making packs. Nice surprise, really.

I guided Denali with a Chaos, if you can believe that. One day moving from 14K to 17K with clients whining and falling apart and me taking shit out of their packs until they would move, I probably had 100 lbs on that thing. All I know is that I could not get off the ground without someone pulling me up. That's HEAVY!

I used some after market Dana Design side pockets to increase room. Seemed abusive to me and the pack but the thing held up. Solid work.

Cole Nelson said...

Hello Dane,
Enjoying your blog. I have some questions for you. Unfortunately I have been unable to play around with any of the cold cold world or blue ice packs, but am looking at them for my new mountaineering pack. Previously I've just been hauling things in with my old green monster 100+ L Lowe Alpine and stripping it down, compressing as much as possible, and climbing with a baggy mass. Not the most stylish, but cheaper than buying a new pack and it gets the job done. So, no matter what I get it'll be in an improvement while climbing.

I've got a fun year planned, AK for the summer, PNW for the fall, first trip to Chamonix in the winter, and hopefully cordillera blanca next summer. I need a new pack or two....

Questions:

How small does the chernobyl get when fully compressed/tightened down?

I like the Blue Ice and Cold Cold World designs...what are your thoughts on chernobyl vs BI 45 L for a multi day pack?

Same question for the BI 30 L, BI warthog, and CCW Valdez and ozone?

Thanks for your thoughts!
Cole

Dane said...

Hey Cole, I'd suspect you'll need a couple of packs. I would anyway for what you have planned. Best to just compare the sizes and volumes of what is available and what you think you'll need.

Get very big (over 45/50l) and you'll simply have a nice back packing rig not a climbing pack.