Blue Ice, the new Warthog alpine pack!

Finally back to some alpine climbing content!  It is almost August after all...skiing has to stop some time right?  Well for the moment anyway...I want another run from the top of Rainier before I am done skiing for the season!

If you have seen this:

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/01/my-climbing-pack.html

You know I am into really basic climbing packs.  And I continue to use really simple climbing packs.  Once in awhile I get side tracked and try the newest options that interest me.  Of course I have used the older Blue Ice packs, the 45, the 30 and the Mono among others.  But I am pretty set in what I think works.

The Mono has kept my attention but I've been too lazy to get that review done.  Some how it seems a conflict of interest since I sell Blue Ice gear as well.   And the fact my wife has stolen my personal Mono.  Hard to write it up.  I'll work on that review when she is out of town and I have my hands on the Mono again.

But the new Warthog is hard to ignore (as you can see by the color).   No way anyone is sneaking this one off without me knowing.  So I am going to give you my take on it now before it happens.   

If you look at the custom CCW packs I have Randy make for myself (30L) you'll likely notice the similarities of the Blue Ice Warthog (27L) my custom packs and the original, stellar CCW Ozone.  First is they are very close in size, with the Warthog being the smallest of the bunch..  Second they are are really simple packs with very complicated and intricate patterns, which takes a high degree of  skill to sew.

I'd really like to take credit for some of the Warthogs design work.  But sadly I can't.  Not even a tiny bit.   I first saw the early prototypes of the Warthog at the Blue Ice offices last March.  I was impressed then because it is a pack I might have designed if given the chance.  More impressed now that I have one in hand.

I probably mentioned this once before.  Back in March one of my partners was looking in Snell's (all over Cham actually) for a new climbing pack.  Randy wasn't interested in more pia custom work.   So Matt was out of luck on a custom CCW piece.  Of the two walls full of new packs at Snells' only one Grivel and one Blue Ice offering interested him.  Which should tell you a lot about the currently  available climbing packs.  He made a trip to the Grivel factory first.  And his choice in packs was eventually found worthy on the Ginat among other climbs that winter and spring.

As good as the pack he has is, too bad he didn't get to see this one.

I try lots out a lot of gear.  But having a full set of made to order custom sacs kinda limits my interest in other climbing sacs.  It isn't easy to live up to my admittedly harsh and very critical standards for a climbing pack.  I have put a lot of thought and money into what best works for me.  There is no reason to take second best into the mtns.

Enter the newest, Blue Ice pack, the Warthog!

Love the color.  I Iike that the pack is small, light and simple.  It actually fills the "small pack" gap in my pack line up.  Same kind of sac both Randy and I like a lot but no one seems to be able to sell consistently.   Good shoulder straps on this one and a easily adjustable sternum strap on sliders.

the Sternum straps misaligned on purpose

Two different thicknesses on the foam used  in the shoulder strap.  The thicker stuff is set high in the strap where it can take the bulk of the load.    Straps are attached to the bag via small wings sewn to the pack body.  And sewn cord loops on the straps as well. Nice detail.  The narrow and unpadded waist belt is tape with a buckle and easily removable.  The perfect choice for this pack.  The bottom of the bag is reinforced but not dbl. layered.  All the tie in points are reinforced and ARE dbl layered.  Nice detailing.  I'll say that a lot in this review.  It is worth repeating.

reinforced sewing and taped seams

All the seams are taped internally.  Shoulder straps tighten by pulling them down. There is a full size (water bladder)  internal hydration pocket that has been pleated and bellowed.   It makes a full badder easy to fit.

Hydration pocket and more taped seams

Again nice detailing.  A Velcro hydration hose holder as well.
Thin foam pad is sewn into the pack.   Call it a bivy pad or just pack padding.  Either would be accurate.  But it is not removable.


The packs back has a definitive "S" cut to the back panel.  Huge advantage for fit on a simple climbing pack.

The rather pronounced S shaped bottom of the back panel from the side 

Single lid strap for hold down.  Lid is sewn on tightly to the pack's top hem.  And the straps are the right length.  Elastic keepers on every strap, shoulders, waist and lid.  Another great detail.  Lid is perfectly sized to cover a fully loaded pack with the skirt drawn tight.  None of this stuff is easy to do or more importantly, easy to do right.  There is a hole for your hydration hose through both pack and lid.  And a single rope strap that is fixed via a Fast Tex style nylon buckles made by Duraflex.  Pack is actually sewn in Vietnam under Blue Ice's and  Giovanni's personal supervision..  The lid has three (yes three) pockets all YKK zippers   Two of them are on the out side and one underneath the lid.

The small back pocket also holds a net of sorts that is easy to deploy or store back in the pocket when not in use.  It is made to attach your helmet easily to a full pack.  Helmets aren't the only item the net will hold, just the most obvious.  Jackets pants, skins or crampons can just as easily be stashed under the net  Slick design work on this one. Did I mention I like the color combo.  It is going to be great for pictures :)

The "hair net" on top of the pack

Crampons can go under the lid, with the rope strap holding them in place with the pack body offering some protection from sharp points.  There are two traditional ice axe holders on the pack..both with reinforced dbl layering sewn through attachments.  Easy enough to securely lash on a tool a little less traditional.   A small quick link in place of the mini biners would be even cleaner but I was going with a quick "green" solution.  A little imagination here will go far if you are using the newest technical tools.   Should be little worry on that one.

Wow!  Some sweet looking Nomic hammers there :)

http://coldthistletools.blogspot.com/

The pack closes on a 3"  skirt with a single draw string closure.   The haul loop is flat 3/4" nylon tape that is folded in thirds and sewn to make an easier to manage haul loop which can be connected to the axe upper tabs as well for a 3 point lift.  Again a nice detail.  The back panel on my early production pack is a full 18".  Surprisingly, it is a size I can work with on this pack.  Long shoulder straps and a good pattern on the back panel allow it to fit my long back.

Short or tall most will be able to get a good fit with this pack.   It is a climbing pack, and there is plenty of head clearance while looking up with the helmet of your choice when the pack is fully loaded up.

Cost:  78 Euro
Directly from Blue Ice (it should be close to that here in the US)
Weight is 1# 10.4oz or 750g...on my digital scale.  Right on!
Pack material is Cordura, with a pack cloth externally and a smother material against your back and skin on the shoulders.
I can carry 20 to 25 lbs this one.  That is more than I want to climb with for weight.  Less is always better given the option.

Rope strap, hydration hose hole and short skirt

How big is 27 Liters?  The pack will just hold two 60m 10.5 ropes in the main bag.  With two ropes you can still get the cuff closed, if only barely.  A one liter water bottle, will fit in the top lid pocket with a tiny bit of space to spare for the odd packet of GU to keep you running or the odd bite to eat if you pack small.  Pull out the net for your helmet or other pieces of gear/clothing as required.

John Bouchard BITD with a Karrimore climbing a new mixed route on the Grands Charmoz,  August 1975 with Steve  Zajchowski.

I need to add a few words about Blue Ice.   I am pretty sure everyone in the office climbs.  Easy when you live and work in the best alpine climbing environment i nthe world!   Easy to see the influence by the design work, like the Boa, the Chouca and now the Warthog  that the designers know what they are looking for.  By my acocunt some serious energy and effort went into this pack.  It is the first off the shelf,  production, alpine pack I have seen in several decades that I will climb with.  For those that do remember the old Karrimore Joe Brown pack or a Chouinard Fish pack, the Warthog is better done than either and in modern materials but very similar for what they were designed for.   It is a simple sac.  And for those that actually know what it is to be used for (single push alpinism) it is simply a stellar design, with a great attention to detail and sewn very well.  It is obvious to me it comes from  a group of climbers serious about making good kit...not just any bit of kit.  Bravo to Blue Ice for the effort!

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/02/light-is-always-right-part-duex.html

The party line?

Weight:

720 gr.  (mine came out a bit more @ 750g)
Features:
■helmet holder
■top lid with external & internal pocket
■chest buckle with security whistle
■rope attachment under the lid
■dual ice axe holders
■hydration-compatible
■removeable hipbelt
■safety pocket with key holder

Finishing:
■high quality Duraflex buckles
■durable YKK zipper

Fabrics/material:
Main: 500 denier CORDURA®
Reinforced bottom: 1000 denier CORDURA®
Lining: Nylon ripstop 210D

To build a highly resistant pack we have chosen to work with CORDURA®. CORDURA® is one of the most durable nylon fabric manufactured to date and it is widely used for high end applications and for producing gear where tearing and abrasion resistance are crucial. Moreover, the CORDURA® we use, is certified by Blue Sign, which is an important factor for our philosophy of minimizing our impact on the environment. Read more about CORDURA® on our technologies page.

Product overview:Minimalist backpack for fast and demanding one day ascents.


Design & features:The Warthog 26L is a light, extremely resistant backpack with all the essential accessories you need and nothing more. This is the ideal backpack for light and fast one day climbs on technical routes: it is compact to allow freedom of movement and it is super resistant for the most demanding conditions.

As the larger Blue Ice packs the Warthog can hold two ice axes. The simple system of webbing loops and cord locks allows not only a quick attachment but also a steady hold. Additional features are rope holder, helmet holder, exit for hydration tube and a removable hip belt.

Thanks to its stability, shape, volume and comfort it has proven an excellent pack not only for climbing but also for back country days when skis are to be kept on the feet during the whole ascent.
Ideal uses: single day climbs, mountaineering



(Agreed 100% btw on that observation and bet you'll see some Cham ski guides using the Warthog next winter.  Might be a wise color choice if so ; )

No way it could be just this easy though to put ski on this pack...or could it?  My Se7en Summits strapped right on like the Warthog was made for them.   Next test is to see if the axe loops can haul a 6# ski set up.

Blue Ice Warthog 38L

For those not familar with the smaller, original version of the Blue Ice Warthog, the 26L pack take a look here:

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/07/blue-ice-new-warthog-alpine-pack.html

12Ls bigger to start with over the 26L Warthog.  Probably more realistic for most  of us in North America.   Same basic volume that I have been using for a long time most everywhere here, Canada and in the Alps.  It is an aquired taste/size.  All the same features as the original.

Same 18" back length and 3" spread at the top of the should straps.  Weight is 910g or 2# even.   Weight listed on the Blue Ice web site is 890g.  But stripped of straps and the removable waist belt it would be lighter than the 780g.    Material is 500 x *50 denier Cordura.  And a nice mellow red in color.  YKK zippers and a double fabric bottom.

Nice, simple and useful alpine pack.  I really like it.

http://www.blueice.com/en/home/

Climbing pack in Cham?

More on climbing packs from Dave Searle in Chamonix.   Call it a Euro perspective :)  Thanks Dave!

With the recent Cold Thistle theme being centred around climbing packs I thought I’d put in a word or to as well. 

Last year and the year before my climbing pack was the Black Diamond RPM 26.  It was more or less the ideal Chamonix climbing pack and served me well on many good days out from big north faces to sunny rock climbing and hauling 25litres of water on training runs.  Its simple clean design, low weight and smart features where a real winner.  The material is good, tough enough to withstand granite chimneys (cheese graters) without being too heavy.  With two side pockets and a small lid pocket stashing gloves and snacks is easy and with a simple yet effective draw cord compression on the front shedding a layer is easy to.  It was however difficult to carry a rope on the outside (necessary if your packing bivy stuff) and the zip top closure was slightly worrying.  I never had any problems but when the teeth start to sit funny it’s pretty scary to think it could burst open at any time landing you in deep trouble. 

I have recently replaced the BD with a Blue Ice Warthog 26.  26 litres seems to me to be the perfect size for a climbing pack out here in Chamonix.  If you need anything bigger you’re either doing something wrong or something very hard!  The only time I needed a bag bigger last year was on my failed attempt on the Desmaison/Gouseault with would have required two bivi’s on the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses.

I much prefer the lid system on the Warthog which makes carrying a rope a breeze with the separate strap and the helmet carrier is a great idea to, something that the RPM was missing . The Ice ace loops are simple but work really well.  I have even jerry rigged the Rope carrying strap combined with a ski strap through the lower Ice Axe loop to make a rudimentary but effective ski carrying system.  It worked fine with my 108 waisted ski’s and held the ski’s in the perfect cross carry position for bootpacking. 

The material on the Warthog is tougher and a lot more durable so it should last longer than my RPM and also would take the odd hauling session if required.   The removable light waist belt is good to (the same as the RPM).  I never climb with a waist belt but it is good to have one for those long slogs up to the bottom of the Jorasses. 

The quality of Warthog is superb too.  It’s still going strong after half a season of use and abuse without any signs of wear.  I’m looking forward to giving it as much use and seeing how it fairs!

Climbing Packs Part 2

“Perfection is achieved not when there is nothing left to add, but when there is nothing left to take away” – Antoine de Saint-Exupery

The very first model Karrimore pack, the Grimpeur, on a snow arete low on the Innominata route, Mont Blanc © rif, Aug 1967

Climbers: Rob Ferguson  (photo by Pete Cartwright)


The Grimpeur pictured above is not a lot different in design simplicity from what I am using for a pack today.  S. House and C. Haley are using similar, very basic pack designs as well.

Two recent posts on one of the climbing forums this past week...

"SO you ask what is so great about a $500 pack that falls apart then? The ride and the W/NW Dyneema material. Despite one of the lower ice axe buckles coming clear off, one of the buckles on the lid snapping in half when i was unlatching it, the buckles that hold the lid on coming undone along with various other buckles just coming undone for no apparent reason and loosing them in the snow...."

and my  totally biased response....
"Man that is so pathetic it makes me want to actually just give you a quality made pack. But then you could buy one for $150 delivered so I'll restrain myself."

What I didn't want this series of  blog posts to be was a advertisement for the custom packs I use.  They are after all custom packs.  But then all my packs I pay retail for and have yet to pay more than $250 for any one of them, including delivery.   Generally the packs I use the most are about half that price, including the ones Dave and I are using and pictured below.  So it is hard to ignore the stark differences in price and quality.   I'm not here to  bash anyone either just a little reality check from the packs I saw being used in the last month or so.  That said I will eventually point out some pretty bad examples imo of current packs.  So don't kill the messenger here.   I have no dog in the fight just reporting what I saw and my opinions on the topic. My suggestion to you as a smart consumer here is read between the lines...take a close look at what you see and  decide according to your own needs.

I have seen and used a lot of packs over the years.  The design and workmanship I still find fascinating.  If you are new to climbing specific packs (yes there is such an animal) or have yet to find one that really fits you hopefully this group of blogs on climbing packs will help you get more for your dollar and the best pack for your own needs.

As I repeat often and honestly mean,  "what I use may not be what you want to use and what works for me may not work for you."      And it pays to remember I am not trying to sell you anything.  The info and opinions here is free.  The real question is.....is the information useful to you?

The same custom CCW packs are pictured here made from different fabrics.

2lbs 7oz. for the red ballistics cloth below and  2 lbs. even for the black Spectra ripstop pack pictured above.

Mark Twight @

http://www.marktwight.com/discourse.php?id=4

"June 24-26 Steve House, Scott Backes and I climbed the Czech Direct on Denali. The first ascent, in 1986, required 11 days and approximately 1000' of fixed rope. Kevin Mahoney and Ben Gilmore made the second ascent over 7 days in May, 2000. We climbed it in 60 hours non-stop. We carried no bivouac gear apart from a 2lb Down or Polarguard jacket each and two MSR XGK stoves in order to melt snow fast enough to stay hydrated. Starting with just 22oz of fuel for each, these ran out of gas at hour 48. A total of 55lbs was split between two packs, (18lbs were water), leaving the leader pack-free to move fast.

The Czech Direct is 9000' high but only 5500' present any climbing difficulty: ice climbing up to 90°+ and rock to UIAA V+ (USA 5.9). We belayed 31 (60m) pitches, simul-climbed some terrain and soloed the rest including the first 1000' where the Czechs belayed 9 pitches. After crossing the bergschrund at 6am, we passed the Czech's 2nd bivouac site at 8am and their 3rd bivy by 11 and reached their 4th at 2pm where we brewed and ate. The climbing was fantastic and there was a lot of it. The Czech topo showed 24 pitches of UIAA III (USA 5.4) or harder. Ice conditions were such that we never holstered our tools -- but we did have to file them twice during the climb."

In his book Extreme Alpinism, Twight for better or worse defined how much a climbing pack should weigh.

The magic number?  Less than 3.8 pounds. 

Twight also said, "frameless packs work fine for loads up to 35# and carrying more than 35# usually guarantees failure" 

There are two points I am trying to make here.  The first is most of us carry too much crap around and don't pay attention to what it is we put in our packs.  The other is the pack materials (fabric used ), the weight and the costs don't have to be exotic or astronomical to have a awesome climbing pack.  Here is why.

The pack I am using today is based on a 70's vintage Chouinard FISH pack.   The FISH name came from the smell of the early ballistics nylon used for that pack's body.  When I finally retired the pack in the '90s the shoulder strap seams were literally rotting and falling apart.  But the pack body was still intact and usable after hundreds of miles of hiking and thousands of vertical feet of climbing and hundreds of feet of hauling.

The heavily modified FISH pack's weight in ballistics nylon with a foam pad?  1lb 15oz.

Bottom line?  Nothing wrong with good pack cloth fabrics even today.  Yes they add some weight to a climbing pack compared to the super lwts.   But in a 35/40 Liter sack size like what I am using it is 7 oz of long term durability.  It is easy to get well under 3# on a realistic climbing size pack these days.

My personal climbing pack and its design here:

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/01/my-climbing-pack.html

More on climbing packs in general here:

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/12/climbing-packs.html

I like most I suspect I have been easily swayed by the outdoor industry and their paid advertising.  I see gear being used on hard climbs, I want to emulate those climbers and their climbs and a good place to start I figure is having like gear.  Right?  Well it turns out that much of that gear is either given freely or given at such discounts that it is hard not to accept the favor if it is something you will use.  So the guys with the biggest budgets get their products show cased more often in the climbing rags, climbing forums  and on places like this,  climbing blogs.  That gets spun into the best makers even adding labels from the biggest players on to some of the highest quality goods.  Or the weakest attempts at gaining credibility simply claiming it is your product being used when it clearly (to those who really know) it isn't. 

OK lets talk a bit about pack design.  Climbing packs should be simple and sturdy in construction.  The design and pattern for a good climbing pack is how ever pretty complicated.

Just one example of pattern cutting and complicated or simple design efforts.  A pear shaped pack on top and a cylindrical pack shape on the bottom.  Each has its place.

Good look at the S shaped curved back panel pattern from a BI Warthog.   Simple pack complicated design.

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/07/blue-ice-new-warthog-alpine-pack.html

All three of  these packs have only two main vertical seams and are made from two main pieces of fabric (front and back)  plus the bottom piece which is the third.  

No where near the total but try counting the load bearing seams on this pack.  The number of pieces of fabric and the resulting seams left untaped in this particular pack surprised me.

Try counting the number of seams and fabric pieces in your favorite pack.  Every seam is a weak point in the pack's design.  It is much better to cut a perfect pattern than it is to build a shaped pattern by using many different pieces of fabric and sewing them together.  Even the very best fabrics easily fail at a poorly sewn seam.   Use a poorly designed pattern, add bad sewing and quality control and you end up with packs that fall apart in use.

This from an email exchange earlier in the week with one of my climbing partners:

"I bought my white one 30L NWD (which is now tearing apart and all taped up) in April 2010. Its my "go to" alpine multi day pack pretty much in summer in Cascades.  Oh, did I tell you what I found the other day?  One of the shoulder straps attachment seams is half torn apart which implies I need to fix it (again!). I am afraid it would not survive another trip."

Mind you this is a less than 2 year old,  current production, $500 retail pack the owner is discussing with me!   And it is not the same $500 pack being discussed on an Internet forum at the top of this blog!  Just the same US domestic manufacturer.  I've seen this particular $500 NWD pack in person and truthfully...it is duct tape holding it together.   I wouldn't personally take it on another climb.  Happily it is not my pack or my choice.  'Cuz I would be pretty pissed.   I'm being kind here by not posting the pictures.

Take a look inside your favorite pack.

Here are some examples of well built packs and their stitching and tape jobs.   The FISH pack not so much.  But hard to argue its durability after 20 years of hard climbing and ZERO required repairs.  I included the last pack pictured from a Canadian manufacture that uses multiple seams and fabric pieces with an exceptionally well fitting pattern that is sewn extremely well.  Lots of ways to build a quality pack.  Pick your own wisely.

It is worth noting the bit of fabric here to back up the externally sewn accessory box/X  sewing pattern.  The tape job on the seam is also well done imo.

 This one's sewing is very clean and much more likely to hold up because of multiple stitch lines.  These are the shoulder strap tacks.  It is also a well worn 3 year old pack.  In fact it is the the red ballistics nylon one I have posted any number of pictures of in the past.  The clones to this pack in Spectra and Dyneema ripstop look the same internally.   All the sewing and taping is very clean and tidy.
 

Clean taped seams here.  And just as likely cleanly sew seams under the tape.  Note the dbl seams under the tape and the double sewn over seams just outside the tape on this pack bottom.  All of that is why these packs will take year after year of abuse and stay usable.  Not a season or two of use and a roll of duct tape to keep them just functionable. 

Here is my 30+ plus year old Chouinard FISH pack.  Good enough sewing and no taped seams...which was the norm for a $40 pack in the late 70's.   The sewing looked like shit but lasted  through 20 years of hard use.  But why would you put up with this level of  workmanship today at 5 or worse yet 10 times the price.

I won't. 

This one is from a Canadian manufacture that uses multiple seams and fabric pieces with an exceptionally well fitting pattern that is sewn extremely well.  This one is 5+ years old and used hard.  Internally it still looks new.

A climbing pack in use!

Alley Swinton climbing, Dave Searle photo

http://davesearle.me/

Let me leave you with some facts.  The actual weights of packs I have had here on my digital scale.

CCW 35l custom climbing sack, Spectra rip stop, 2# even (based on a Ozone)
Same CCW in ballistics nylon 2# 7oz
Same CCW in Dyneema r/s 1# 12oz
REI Flash 18L 9.2oz 
Arcteryx Khazri 35l  2# 13oz 
CCW Chaos, custom 21" back, Spectra r/s, 3# 10oz
Jensen 4oz. red pack cloth LG 1# 11oz
Jensen green 8oz Cordura 2#3oz
Cilo 30L in 210d Dyneema r/s 17" back  2# 9oz

Part 3 of "climbing packs" will be a discussion of what IMO you really need on a alpine climbing specific sac.

Slipstream....

Doing the 2nd ascent, in a day, of Slipstream was a life changing event for me.  Sadly we didn't take a camera.  Finding Chris' photos last night has allowed me to relive that experience in a small way from the comfort of my computer desk :)

The new cover photo on Cold Thistle shows a team topping out on Snow Dome after climbing Slipstream.

Some truly amazing photos.  Thanks Chris for sharing them.

http://sidestreamphotography.com/

https://www.facebook.com/ChrisScharfPhotography/?pnref=story

A few more but not all from Chris' face book page.

Gary Silver and I used a half dozen old Chouinard tube screws, one Warthog, one 9mm x 150' rope    and these ice tools to climb Slipstream in early Jan. '81.   

 

Gear giveaway?

I decided tonight as a celebration of C-T's 2nd "birthday" I'd give some gear away.  The only way to *win* is to be one of the members here and on the published list.  More to come....good time to sign up at Cold Thistle. :)

I'll pull the first winning member the first of March.  That prize will be the winner's choice between the two Blue Ice packs, the Warthog or the Octopus.    The second drawing will come shortly after that.  No clue yet what that prize will be. 

The Monkey on my back!

It is possible to teach old dogs new tricks.  If just isn't always easy to teach the trick.

One of the fun things about working with Blue Ice from Chamonix is that I get to see their newest designs.  (and make a few bucks from my own fun)    But while I get to see a lot of new gear there isn't a lot of "new gear stuff" that gets sorted into my everyday climbing gear.  Especially now that I climb like once a week or once a month instead of every day.

So back in July when the newest products showed up here in the USA from Blue Ice I immediately ran outside with my Warthog for a show and tell.  The one Double Mono was gone the next morning to a anxious wall climber.  And the Octopus pack and a tiny (from my perspective)  chalk bag sat ignored.  Not like I planned to order any of of the chalk bags or the Octopus packs.

When I do use chalk I generally like to dust up to my elbows :)  A big chalk bag makes a good place to stash your sun glasses when the thunder showers roll in or your approach shoes if they are small enough as well.  So if I am such a dolt on my chalk bag size image what my first impression of a climbing specific duffel bag is?   Let me say I love the color but the whole idea of a climbing duffel?  Not so much.

  Enter the Blue Ice Octopus pack

I've owned and used a few "climbing duffels".  Great bags for throwing your kit into and hauling it around your local rock climbing area or even the gym.  Extra clothing, food, water, your harness and shoes plus what ever is required for hardware that day, drop right in.  Lucky for you if your duffel has a tarp to keep everything organised and out of the dirt.

I kinda figure they were a "sport climbing thing" as I generally walk to the rocks with a funky ruck, my sheet everywhere, impossible to find in 2 minutes and the rope gets immediately thrown in the dirt. That system has been tried and true for years.  And it worked.

Of course Giovanni is a smart guy so he decides to make the Octopus.  Not that I think the Octopus is a great idea mind you.  I'm the only one who thinks I know everything.  And I am pretty sure I do most days.    So the Octopus that arrives here and sits in the corner of my office for months.

Until today.  

Couple of us decided a little exercise is mandatory for today.  And I'm sure we'll need most all our kit and hardware to do a little dry tooling in the rain.  Boots, ropes, hardware, ice tools, extra clothes go in the bag...you get the idea.  Way more junk than you would ever think about bringing on an actual climb.    And lot of extra awkward shaped shit to pack around.   It is an hour R/T walk tothe walk may be less.  Lee hauls out his huge North Face duffel.  I could have used my Brooks Mountaineering version of the same bag.  But I am thinking at least the Octopus might be a  more manageable size and still not be over stuffed.

So I pull the Octopus out of the corner and strip the wrapper.  And then unzip the back panel.  What we are doing today in the rain is kinda like sport climbing.  Throw all the sheet in the bag and trundle 20 minutes down the trial and pull it all out, sort through what you might need and get on with it. 

Generally is a lot of nonsense and a short walk.  But a duffel can suck if you put enough weight in it as can any decent sized well designed climbing pack.

This one didn't suck.  Even with unprotected Boreal Fruit boots (my new Ice Ninjas) stuffed in the Octopus it was comfortable and nothing poking me in the back. 

As comfortable as any of my climbing rucks and more junk in there, all packed poorly and with little planning.  I thought that impressive and pretty cool actually.

So I was pretty happy with how the thing carried.     Some surprising features for me on the actual pack.  One good sized zipped pocket on top which ate a couple of the newest full size rain shells.  A half panel mess pocket internally to sort the small stuff or may be your rock shoes or chalk bag.  Even my size of chalk bag.   And then there is the very nifty pull out "grocery bag" with all your kit in it...or your rope more typically I suspect.

And then the thought came to mind...this would make a decent piece of travel luggage.  And you could ski and climb with it if you were pressed and not actually be unhappy doing so.  Might even make a really nice ski/mo pack if it had a ski carry system.   OK, seriously it would, but it ain't made for that.   But it could be:)    What was not to like?

Guess I shouldn't be so cynical.  From a piece of gear I "would never" use yesterday to one I'm now pretty excited to own.  Old dog, new trick.  But I still have that streak of cynicism.

I suspect I'll sell more of these than any other Blue Ice piece of kit I have here in the US.   Once the word gets out...and I actually order a few from France.  A little slow may be but I eventually catch on.

Crikey!   May be I should rethink those pesky little chalk bags as well.

Blue Ice Warthogs are back in stock...

Photo courtesy of  Dave Searle collection

I have a good number of the Warthog packs back in stock.  Pre-orders were shipped today. 

If interested you can order one here: 

http://coldthistletools.blogspot.com/2011/04/blue-ice-gear.html

Summer OR show SLC 8/3 through 8/7 2011

I'm not posting live from the summer OR show as I have done at the winter shows in the past.  But obviously a few things are leaking out.  The Blue Ice Warthog pack and  the Petzl Lynx crampon are two early examples.  There is more to come.  Old and new technology being show cased.  Pictured are some wild ones and some old stand bys from the past and a few current "game changers" thrown in.  Just to get the process going :)

I am sworn to secrecy for a few more days.  But  I have to say...some of this stuff I hadn't even dreamed of yet.  And that is a long list of gear dreams when you start talking about ice gear and technical boots.

The Summer OR Show gives retailers a chance to see what will be available for Spring 2012 delivery and in some rare instances a few things that will be available for Fall 11.  But most new Fall items are generally shown at the winter OR show the previous Jan.  Delivery for the Winter OR show is Fall of that year, a full 9 months later.  So Winter OR 2012 will show clothing, ski and climbing gear available in the stores the Fall of 2012.  Summer OR shows the summer sporting goods and clothing that will be available in the spring of the following year.  Hopefully that makes sense.

More to come by the end of the week.

Blue Ice Yeti 45 review

Reviewed by Jerry Johnson (one of my very first climbing mates)

Here is what I really like about the Blue Ice Yeti 45 – throw anything in it and don’t worry about screws poking out or crampons tearing through. Frankly, I am tired of the ultra light pack I need to watch around sharp implements, branches during the inevitable bushwhack, or ski edges.  There will no need to constantly patch this pack with Aqua Seal and a hodgepodge of Cordura scraps.

Readers of this blog are well acquainted with Blue Ice. They build a few specialized products for the alpine world. I already use the Boa leash and the 27 liter Warthog. The Yeti is their solution to the need for a pack for bigger loads up to overnight.  Like any well designed pack it carries just fine and has the usual features we like. Two compression straps, a waterproof zipper down the front for quick access to spare gloves (something I am learning to appreciate with use), and an adequately padded, and removable, hip belt with a accessory pocket.  Most packs nowadays share these and additional features. The design crew for the Yeti did a couple things with these features I really appreciate.

The lid is, of course, removable via four Fast Tex style nylon buckles made by Duraflex. A gripe I always seem to have in these systems is that the lid doesn’t cinch down as tight over the pack as I would like. Most of the time when I have a partially loaded pack I just tuck the lid insight and cinch it shut but, for moderate loads when you use the lid as intended, most lids fit sloppy at the back, flop around and don’t really seal all that well. On the Yeti, they sewed the rear lid buckles slightly further down the back so the lid fits as it should. Mine didn’t come with two zipper slides on the main pocket but they should in future production runs.

Speaking of strappage. The pack came with two long webbing straps for attaching crampons or whatever. Many packs have some daisy chained webbing that works well enough but involve a lot of extra sewing and so expense. The strap tie on points on the Yeti are stellar. The base is a thin neoprene impregnated nylon with well formed loops. Threading webbing or a Voile strap is a no brainer and clearly they are strong enough for haul loops if needed. Here is a request for Blue Ice – make straps out of the neoprene material with strong steel buckles. They would replace the old Beck Crampon Straps we used in the 70’s and still in use as accessory straps today. I’d buy them. And one other thing – I wish pack manufacturers would sew straps with a little extra on the ends. I seem to always strain compression straps to their full extent and a little extra webbing to grab on to would be very cool.

 Reflecting the alpine roots, the pack has two small gear loops on the pack straps. I didn’t like them. They make the pack harder to get in and out of and I don’t quite see the point. I sometimes climb with a bandoleer system but these just seem to get in the way and make rack changeovers just that much more complicated. Others may feel differently and should give them a go. There are gear loops inside the pack but again, I don’t see the need. I hadn’t owned a pack with the new school axe system and was skeptical but they work well with my Quarks – easy off/easy on.

Frame is a plastic sheet with two metal stays. I recently swapped it out for a piece of foam and it seems to work just as well, offers a bivi pad, and saves a few ounces. Again, it likely comes down to a personal preference or need.

Blue Ice gear is bomber – really well sewn and finished. My only real gripe is that the black color makes it hard to see in the pack in dim light. Not a deal breaker by any means.