5 months ago
Birthright on Grands Charmoz
Photo by © archivio R. Libera, C. Pozzi
The first pitches up the Birthright journey (Grands Charmoz, Mont Blanc)
"For Matt Helliker and Jon Bracey it was a brief escape that lasted less than 4 hours. For Claudio and myself it was a true ordeal which lasted for two days; the most intense two days of my life."
Rossano Libera - 2013
"First climbed by the Americans Mark Twight and Scott Backes 20 years ago, Birthright follows the large corner system to the left of the Cordier Pillar. It was attempted in 1982 by England's Andy Parkin and France's Thierry Renault but the two were forced to retreat after the first 6 pitches due to poor weather. Mark Twight and Scott Backes completed the line from 19 - 20 October 1993 and originally graded it ED+, 90°, 5.9, A2. In 2008 the Italians Rossano Libera and Claudio Pozzi made what is likely to be the first integral repeat of this difficult and ephimeral route. Birthright forms very rarely indeed and conditions obviously vary considerably from one season to the next, making grading a difficult task. Nevertheless Helliker feels the aid sections were freed by climbing difficulties somewhere in the region of M5. "