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The cold world of skimo & alpine climbing

The cold world of skimo & alpine climbing

Thursday, June 27, 2013


Directissime Baxter-Jones by carrard-atypeak

4 comments:

John Sanders said...

I am really enjoying your ski mountaineering postings. You have commented before on how the TLT 5 is actually a good ice climbing boot. Have you had any experience doing technical ice/mixed climbing in the really light weight boots, say the Alien, PDG or EVO?

John

Dane said...

Hey Jon, I don't. Only because I haven't been able to get a pair in my size yet. But from all the guys I know using them everyone is very happy with the lwt race boots even while climbing in them. Seems the Aliens might even be better than the Dyna EVO/PDG. But I was convinced last year and simply haven't been able to get into a pair yet. As good as the TLT has been I can't wait to drop even more weight and add some flexibility. This video was just a hint at what the boots are really capable of imo. M10 not likely but M4 or M5 isn't going to be a problem and if you need skis along the way it is an easy decision. Let me know if you get a pair and what you think!

Don't need skis? The lighter yet and newest La Sportiva and Scarpa mixed boots are going to dominate on mixed and steep ice.

Diarmuid Duggan said...

Dear Dane, I am after a little advice. I am going to get a new touring boot for next season as my Garmots are killing me. I plan on spending a lot of time touring next season on trips up to 10 days. I really like the Dynafit TLT 5 Mountain as it is light warm enough, and climbable and it fits my price range. However they don’t fit me as they are just too narrow. I know the TLT 6 is coming out for next season, but I fear it will be out of my price range. I am trying to get all my new kit now in the summer as there are some great deals to be had on winter gear. 8just got a pair of Line Mr Pollard Opus for 300 Euro new). My question to you is what if any boots are there out there currently that rival the TLT 5 but are just a bit wider to suit me feet? Thanks for the blog and keep ripping. Dee

Dane said...

I like the TLT5 better than the 6 for climbing. Have to finish that comparison and get it up here. I also think the 5 is wider than you might first suspect. The inner boots mold very well in the oven and give a much better fit. adding a decent insole will get you off the bottom of the boot a little where the shell is wider. Unless you have a really wide foot I think most will get a decent fit in the TLTs with just a littel effort. I switched my Mountain liners to my TLT Ps this spring and had them molded. Boots are now HUGE internally and the liners packed out soem as well. More comfotable now and they still ski just fine. All of which really surprised me. Never thought I could ski in such a "sloppy" ski boot fit. But is is a great climbing fit with now many miles on them in crampons and skins.

I'd suggest another boot but nothing even close tot he TLT Series as a climbing boot IMO.
The Dynafit One should allow you an easy fit and has most of the attributes of the TLT series of boots. And they ski much better. It is a excellent choice. The Maestrale is another using either version. But it is no ONE or TLT. It is a ski boot that you can use to climb in...and not very well I don't think. That boot in either version would be the other boots to look at.