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The cold world of alpine climbing.

The cold world of alpine climbing.

Monday, September 19, 2011

Petzl Lynx?

They are being delivered now.  I saw them in several stores in the Rockies while on a road trip this week.
Everyone made a point of saying, "stock is limited".






3 comments:

Zoran said...

I heard Petzl increased production of the Lynx. No one will be left behind!

Bruno Schull said...

Hi--these look great. Two questions/observations. First, has Petzl improved the heel lever in the last few years? I seem to remember you writing something about how the Petzl levers don't have quite the best angle or fit (am I remembering this correctly?) Second, it would be cool if Petzl would keep the same down point configuration, and simple anti-bot plates, and produce a basic horizontal point crampon to match. Regardless, I will probably pick up a pair of these.

Dane said...

A few comments I added to a forum discussion earlier today.

"I picked up a pair late last week. First impressions?

The additional price ($50) only makes sense if you want to use them on multiple boots and boot styles. Looking at it that way you get two pairs of crampons for the price of one. So lots of ways to look at the price increase...and how the additional price might be off set for your own use...... that is just one way. But not the only way.

Mono and dual fronts for example. Off set fronts for another...call it three pairs of crampons just by changing the front points.

For me the off set front points are a crampon I am really looking forward to using on steep ice and mixed.

Counter point..Cyborg will do two (dual/mono) but no offsets. BD decided to make a mono specific crampon by simply copying the Dart. You can just which is a better crampon for your use.

Lighter than a Cyborg, but not as light as they might/ should have been. Bots are still, well, still not so good. BD or Grivel has better bots.

Up side the front bail on a Petzl crampon is way better than BD's or Grivel's. BD's back bails are light years ahead of Petzl's rear bail. Still the wrong leverage on the strap.

Bottom line for me? It is a technical crampon. No technical crampon out there that will allow you to take advantage of the front points like the Lynx will. Is that worth the price of admission to you?

When it comes to putting a technical crampon on a double boot...the Lynx has no competition unless you own two pair of the same style crampons one with a wire on one pair and the other with a basket.

I am not totally awed by the Lynx but it does have some features I like, a few I don't. But a closer look will tell you there isn't anything else around with the same features or that will climb technical ground as easily or as securly imo. The reason? 12 down and the ability to off set the fronts.

Some negative mis-statements posted on the web to date admittedly by those that haven't actually had a pair of Lynx in hand.

So one more time. Is it worth the price of admission?

Personally I like the Dartwin better. But it is costly replacing the front points. I will take advantage of the basket front and the offset front points on my double boots this winter though with the Lynx. Anything that lets you climb harder with less effort in a pair of doubles might well be worth an extra $50.

Likely the last pair (but may be not) of fronts @ $100.+ I buy for my Dartwins.

My prediction? When people get a chance to climb in them I suspect they will make a very good showing on hard technical ground compared to everything else out there. Offset fronts will be why to those that can take advantage of that technology.

My guess it the Lynx and new Ergo will be new touch stones just as the original Dart, Quark and Nomic were.