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The cold world of skimo & alpine climbing

The cold world of skimo & alpine climbing

Monday, August 1, 2011

New Petzl Lynx Crampon!

This should stoke up the ice and alpine climbers

The new Lynx crampons from Petzl offers a forged and easily replaceable monopoint or dual point option all done with a single bolt and spacer size with nothing else to cut or "screw" around with!     And they are about to be introduced here in North America later this week.   Typical Petzl design quality.   Some cool innovations like having the option of two sets of boot toe attachment systems with the same crampon.   Mono point can be centered or off set, your choice!  The front points (single or dbl) can also be adjusted forwards or back or off set, along with two versions of the toe bail.   Much lighter as well than the past M10 version.  And a much better bott system than the M10.  Although I haven't had a chance to weigh a pair yet likely the lightest crampon on the market with replaceable forged front points.  Better yet IMO a full set of 12 (yes twelve) down points in addition to the forged front points.   Full botts as well.  Finally a company did it all in one package!  Petzl has just upped the game, again!

I'll do a complete review once I get my hands on a pair! (or even better a pair on my boots ;)  Delivery should be Nov. 2011, may be even a bit earlier!  Retail is being quoted currently @ $240.

Reported weights are:

1080 g (configuration with two points and ANTISNOW)

910 g (configuration with one point, no ANTISNOW)






Shown above for an easy  comparison is the earlier Petzl  M10 that is now discontinued.




And the the obvious rivals that will be slugging it out next winter.  And a previous review of the newest BD Stinger here:

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/01/preview-of-fall-2011-black-diamond.html?showComment=1313220566067#c8734409473319898100


This follow up came later from Petzl:

The new Lynx crampon from Petzl offers a forged and easily replaceable monopoint or dual point. The Lynx will replace the M10. A much lighter replacement and should make a lot of people happy.


Modular crampon for ice and mixed climbing, with new LEVERLOCK universal bindings

From snow couloirs to dry tooling, the LYNX is a versatile crampon. Modular front points allow for many options: dual or mono-point, long or short, and/or asymmetrical. They come with two types of interchangeable front bindings to adapt to boots with or without toe welts.

Selling points:

• Versatile crampons for ice and mixed climbing
• Configuration and length of front points can be modified with one screw:
dual points in short, long or asymmetrical position
offset mono-point in short or long position

• Crampons adaptable to boots with or without toe welts:
interchangeable front bindings: stainless steel toe bail wires for shoes with toe welts, or flexible “Flexlock” style toe bindings for boots without toe welts both types of toe bindings can be adjusted to accommodate shoe width and provide sufficient point length

• LEVERLOCK heel bail is height-adjustable, designed for boots with heel welt
• Integrated front and rear ANTISNOW plates
• FAKIR carrying pouch included
• Marked bars facilitate crampon adjustment

• Comes with:
FAKIR carrying bag (V01)
front and rear ANTISNOW (T24960)
flexible front binding
stainless steel wire heel bail

Product specifications:
Number of points: 14
Boot sizes: 35 to 45 with M linking bar (included), optional L linking bar fits boots sizes 40 to 50 (T20850)
Weight: 2 x 540 g = 1080 g (configuration with two points and ANTISNOW)
2 x 455 g = 910 g (configuration with one point, no ANTISNOW)
Certification(s): CE, UIAA

24 comments:

Jon Rhoderick said...

The way the semi-auto toe strap attaches to the toe bail is genius! That could have been done years ago. I totally agree these things look like they will rock.

Max Huecksteadt said...

Jon's point leaves me wondering, if I have semi-auto BD sabretooths, can I convert them to autos (not permanently)? Looks like the lynx is a good reason to buy an auto bail anyway.. :)

Dane said...

Max, Looks to me like the new auto bail from Petzl would convert any crampon clip on pretty easily. Good luck getting a pair from Petzl though. No reason for them to sell them as a part. I sure wouldn't! Game changer imo.

You can't do it with the way BD's set up.

shoo said...

Am I looking at this wrong? I seem to see all the same parts necessary to change from dual to mono as the cyborg: bolt, spacers, and nut. It doesn't look like a "one screw" design to me at all.

Dane said...

One bolt and a lock nut on Petzl and one size spacer. The Cyborg takes two sizes of bolts and multiple size spacers all of which you'll need to keep track of to go back and forth from dual point to monos. The other difference is the Petzls have a bot that will work on all versions without modification. No chop and hack job like what is required on the Cyborg. Once you cut the Cyborg bot you have a hole in it when you go back to a dual.

Cyborg is a good crampon, just dated, stainless not withstanding.

Anonymous said...

NEW ? Looks like the old fashioned 12 pt to me, let me put on my readers. Yep, 12 pts. Took my shoes off to count 'em. FYI:adjust yer poons at home, it's no big deal on the kitchen table.

rimeice

Dane said...

Hey Rime...better get new readers or more toes, as you have miss counted. There are 12 down plus two, makes 14 total. And it does make a difference. Think not? Try these and a pair of Dartwins on moderate water ice terrain. The difference in security is obvious.

Anonymous said...

so... a lighter(?) G14 with a good new bail design?

Anonymous said...

Finally we get to see them in flesh after guessing about them for quite some time.
It seems that Petzl is the real driving force regarding ice tools and crampons that eventually everybody copies them in the end.
Matej

Dane said...

Thanks Matej for the heads up on the name...never been able to nail them down other wise. Petzl is very tight lipped on new products!

Dane said...

Lighter I suspect but not a G14. Petzl's new design is a good bit more refinded.

Travis said...

Wow, been looking around for five months now for the perfect crampon. Everything has been a trade off. This seems to be the ticket. Now if only they will fit both my Trango Extremes and BD Primes. Thanks for the heads up Dane.

Travis

carolyn said...

these indeed look like a game changer. I look fwd to a full review and testing them out. From the photos one thing that strikes me is how recessed the secondary front points look compared the the g14 and m10. Perhaps its just the angle of the photo?

Dane said...

Hi Carolyn...I think you are correct the second set are intentionally recessed. More like a new Sabertooth than the G14 or the Cyborg. Good improvement imo.

Anonymous said...

Was looking this up again to do some drooling and noticed the comment about the recessed secondary points. Why do you feel this is a good change?

I have used sabertooths a fair bit and made the switch to cyborgs because the more aggressive secondary points seemed more stable. It always felt that when front pointing on steeper ice the only contact with sabertooths was the front points where the cyborgs had contact at the secondary points.

Just curious on your take. Maybe I'm just not kicking with enough effort?

Jay

Dane said...

Hi Jay,
Take this one with a grain of salt because lots of folks would disagree. The overly agressive secondary points aren't a huge advantage imo. They have gotten too large and you loose some advanatge on mixed and moderate ice. Better to adjust your crampons points a little shorter and get the mid length seconds to still offer some support.

You have climbed on both, so you already know the differences. But I suspect much of the stability comes from the extra bite and penetration of vertical fronts on the Cyborg instead of the horizontal fronts of a Saber.

At some point it is just opinions, right? If you have climbed on the stuff and know there is a difference (and we both know there is) your opinion is just as valid as mine. Certainly the idea behind the over size secondary was stability (on neve in the Alps originally). But then that technology is 40 years old now. Much older than the most modern vertical fronts. From what I have seen in the industry few actually look at design but are fast to copy.

Petzl looks at the design...well seems to anyway... as everyone is quick to copy them asap.

Anonymous said...

Interesting that the aggressive points were developed for neve. I always learn something here! I would agree that the vertical points add a feeling of stability but never stepped back to view the fronts and seconds separately. There are certainly disadvantages to the seconds I've noticed at times.
I haven't had a ton of exposure to petzl in person, but the more I've paid attention the more I've been impressed. Looking forwards to reading the review this winter. Sounds like these could be a fantastic quiver of one piece of kit.
Jay

Ronan O Keeffe said...

Hi Dane,

Just wondering if you were aware that these are starting to appear in retail outlets in the UK.

I'm looking at a pair to go on Scarpa Phantom Guides. Any opinions on compatibility?
Keep up the good work!
Regards,
Ronan.

James said...

I'm aching to take mine North; just waiting for the UK winter to arrive. They seem great, I've played about with swapping between mono/duo and it couldn't be easier.

Great blog Dane!

mountsun said...

Hello Im Mike from Poland
What crampons would You recommend for the first crampons on ice / mixed terrain ? Darts or Lynx? Lynx are heavier and Im afraid that I would use them as monopoints all the time so the rest of the features would be unnecessary. The darts are lighter but dont have antiboots and seem to be more.. delicate? Would You help me to make up my mind and make a decision between those two? ;)

Dane said...

I like the Darts..they are lighter but pretty expensive when you wear the front point out and half to replace half a crampon.

If you strip the Lynx to a mono with no bots the weight gets close enough to justify I think and they will be a lot cheaper to climb in fo 3 or 4 seasons.

SweBrian said...

Well, I think I'm going to get these to replace my original M10's that have been taking a beating. Since I'm updating my 'pons any good recommendation for an Ice Boot? I have a very old pair of Montrails that I'm replacing after 13 years. Most of my climbing is done in Scandinavia with some light mixed down in the EU.
Help?

Katy K said...

I was finally able to find and purchase a pair of the Petzyl Lynx and love the design/features. However, the heel is very wide resulting in 1-2mm of space on each side of the heel on my La Sportiva Evo Nepals (size 39). Is there a way to work around this? There is no movement of my front points when i secure them to my boots.
Thank you!!!

Dane said...

Katy it is tough on the smaller boots but at least the toe bails fit well enough. A friend uses a 38 La Sportiva. Wide in the back as well so she used BD heel levers. (which you can buy from BD) They snap right on and I think add a bit of security for the smaller boots and easier off and on. Nice thing is you don't have the leverage on a 39 that I do in a pair of 46 so always less of a worry and they don't have to be blindingly tight on the smaller boots. Just snug up the heel lever as tight as you can still get them on and off and you are set to climb!