Climbing packs?

Ken Glover's photo from the Canadian classic, Deltaform.

Colin Haley said it well, "it's 2000 year old technology...amazing how pack manufactures can still screw it up".

That was just before him showing his audience for the evening  two really basic alpine climbing packs that were prototypes he was using and happy with from one of his sponsors, Patagonia.

Those same packs that could just as easily be copies of the original Wild Things or later CCW packs. Or the Karrimore Brown, Whillians or Haston sacs bitd. See a theme there?

"Colin Haley photo of Bjørn-Eivind Årtun unroped  on the Cassin, June 2010."


It doesn't take a large pack to alpine climb in.  Most have figured it out that somewhere between 18L and 35L is about all they want to climb seriously in anyway.

Nothing has really changed.  Some are going bigger today and most are climbing faster and lighter because of the new technology.

John Bouchard..who had more imagination and an idea of where we would be going that almost anyone else in NA at the time.

In 1981 John Bouchard and Marie Meunier started Wild Things. New to most Americans, the "light is right" idea was already well entrenched by those climbing hard things in the Alpine. Guys like Bouchard pretty much had the idea written in stone for themselves. Generally back then everyone sewed their own stuff (swamis, packs and clothing) to some extent. Wild Things was one of the first to sew up stuff guys were trying to make on their own.

It was a big deal in 1981.

Not that well known but Wild Things supported and influenced and entire generation of serious alpine climbers, Bill Belcourt (now at Black Dianmond), Randy Radcliff (now at Cold Cold World) and Mark Twight (where is he these days?) all got started in the retail/whole sale business to some extent and stayed a while at Wild Things. It was the "tin shed" of alpine climbing on the East Coast (most of NA actually) with Bouchard instead of Chouinard at the helm and a good step higher in technical alpine climbing.  Bouchard  maybe with even more impact on what we do and see today in gear than Chouinard has. Micheal Kennedy, Mark Richey, Mugs Stump were all big Wild Things gear fans. Most were.

Mugs Stump had that same imagination pushed the idea even further by his own climbs.

Wild Things gear was a natural progression of what Lowe Alpine Systems, Don Jensen and Sacs Millet started before them.

You either got it or you didn't, then and now. The gear was exceptional for a certain use. If you weren't using it for that, it likely sucked for your use. Many of those original designs were the first look at very specialised climbing gear...clothing and packs.

Pays to remember that Mugs and Paul went over the 'shrund on Moon Flower with one Wild Things Andinista. It was in part their climbing sac, haul bag, bivy sac and hammock. Today guys do it in day packs. But they wouldn't be able to do that today if a few weren't always pushing the limits on gear and technique before them.


And several generations later.  And here is a Cold Cold World pack..still sewn one at a time by Randy Rackliff. You are looking at 40+ years of experience and technology here.

Few designers have so much experience in the use and application of their own designs.  Chouinard, Todd Bibler, John Bouchard, Don Jensen come to mind.  My point is there aren't many in the same category.  None making climbing packs.  When cutting edge practioniers are directly involved in design and manufacture it makes a difference.

Rackliff's alpine climbing resume is worth a look.   Finding out what he has done is a little harder.  Among his climbs are early solo ascents of Slipstream and Polar Circus, a complete ascent of Moonflower Buttress, and the obvious and unrepeated Reality Bath.

A video and more here:
http://www.marktwight.com/videos.php?id=2

When I wanted to replace my small (30L) climbing pack I looked around, bought a few production packs and one "custom".   One of the production packs I have kept but the others I returned in short order including the spiffy "custom".  Obvious the makers had no idea what the intended use was to be for a "climbing sac".

A little heavy and too expensive, but one I kept and really like, but now use only as a ski pack, the Arcteryx Khazi 35.

Back to Colin Haley's original comment, ""it's 2000 year old technology...amazing how pack manufactures can still screw it up".


For most every climb I have done that didn't require a sleeping bag I've used a pretty basic but actually very complicated pack.

*1973*

So when I went to replace that pack it quickly became obvious I'd want someone building them that was of a like mind set.  The pack I was looking for wasn't full of flash, hype or excuses just the basics done extremely well.

Custom red Ozones in *2009*

I like the option of a removable lid as I seldom use one climbing.

Custom Ozone made from White Widow Spectra Ripstop.

Turns out Randy Rackliff at CCW was already making what I wanted and was willing to make it even better for my own needs with little extra cost.  Although I suspect it was more labor than I imagined, he has been more than happy to oblige when I ask.   No excuses, no argument, just helpful suggestions and a quick delivery time.   With one more even smaller climbing pack in the works now at CCW, my long term climbing pack requirements are covered.

Specs off the Spectra Ripstop Ozone:
Cost $130.
Pack weighs in at less than 1.5 #. Material is Spectra ripstop. Shoulder harness is off a full size CCW pack for the extra padding required on heavier loads. Some where above a 35L in my 21" back size.

custom sizing
custom pattern originally based on the Ozone size
2 liter+ top pocket
2nd zippered pocket in lid with key holder
Zippers reversed for use on hanging belays
pull down shoulder straps
main bag guide book zippered pocket
covered lid buckle
removable foam pad
oversize shoulder straps
Perlon haul loop
dbl strap patches on lid
dbl rope straps
dbl bottom
10" extension
lid is extendable or removable
bar tacked daisy chain on the bottom of the lid strap

Another project from CCW that I am pleased with is a big sack.  Something I don't use often these days but when required a big sack needs every bit of the attention to details as a smaller more sophisticated climbing sac does.

No surprise I suspect that I base my needs on the  Wild Things' original Andinista.  I used one a lot over the years both guiding and my own trips to the greater ranges.

Wild Things took the large pack idea way beyond anyone before them.  The Andinista was a pack you could lug huge loads of gear to base camp with, then zip it down and strip the lid and use it as a summit pack.  Wild Things and CCW were also the some of first to use Dyneema® in pack production.  More than one pack sewn at CCW that went out with a big name manufactures label sewn on for the brand name, sponsored climber.  Saying it, doesn't make it a reality.

From the Wild Things web page:

I went looking for a new larger volume climbing sack. Of course anything I wanted would have to be sewed up to my size and a special order. I have lots of packs but the only company I own several of and continue to use every where, is the CCW stuff.


Built mainly from a black "spider web" Spectra rip stop, Choas in size, leashless tool attach and crampon bag included.

Worth noting CCW retails (and still amazing to me) are less for a totally custom pack than others are for a production pack.

Totally custom pack to my specs, with select materials, harness and accessories with the Chaos' volume. $245 and $10 shipping from the East coast to Issaqauh WA. And amazingly, a week after the order was placed it was shipped out to me. Freak'in stellar customer service!

Not the best know fact...but certainly no surprise if you know their back grounds, Twight, Belcourt, House and dozens of others have used "COLD COLD WORLD" packs off and on for years.

The one shown is a size Large with a 19.5 back.

Postal scale says 2# 4oz stripped (lid and foam off)
Tri folded 9mm Foam 3 or 4 oz (3/4 size and 22"x37")
mongo size lid another 8 oz

Just under 3# all added up and 4000+ cu in. for a size large. Extension is at least another 1500ci. 4000 in³ = 65.5482 L

Big enough to be used as a half bag if required and strong enough to stand in while hanging on the haul loops. Material is 500 denier nylon with a Spectra carbon fiber ripstop reinforcement woven into the fabric. The pack could be made lighter using lighter weight materials and triple the cost. I was looking for something lwt weight, would look good in photos and tough enough to last a decade or so, all without dropping a gazzillion $.

CCW's even sewn up a few "white" ones you've seen in the Patagonia catalog that another company just loves to take credit for :-)  Imagine their customer service with that as a base line.

If you are looking for something really special for your own climbing you should make the effort to discuss your project with Randy @ CCW 603 383 9021 http://www.coldcoldworldpacks.com/

FWIW I have happily paid full retail (which is generally way less than anyone's normal  retail )  for every CCW I own.  This blog post is about as good as a personal endorsement as I'll ever give a piece of kit or a manufacture.  No one even in the same ball game as CCW for design and customer service building climbing packs these days.  When you are that good no incentive to brag about it.

Climbing Packs Part 2

“Perfection is achieved not when there is nothing left to add, but when there is nothing left to take away” – Antoine de Saint-Exupery

The very first model Karrimore pack, the Grimpeur, on a snow arete low on the Innominata route, Mont Blanc © rif, Aug 1967

Climbers: Rob Ferguson  (photo by Pete Cartwright)


The Grimpeur pictured above is not a lot different in design simplicity from what I am using for a pack today.  S. House and C. Haley are using similar, very basic pack designs as well.

Two recent posts on one of the climbing forums this past week...

"SO you ask what is so great about a $500 pack that falls apart then? The ride and the W/NW Dyneema material. Despite one of the lower ice axe buckles coming clear off, one of the buckles on the lid snapping in half when i was unlatching it, the buckles that hold the lid on coming undone along with various other buckles just coming undone for no apparent reason and loosing them in the snow...."

and my  totally biased response....
"Man that is so pathetic it makes me want to actually just give you a quality made pack. But then you could buy one for $150 delivered so I'll restrain myself."

What I didn't want this series of  blog posts to be was a advertisement for the custom packs I use.  They are after all custom packs.  But then all my packs I pay retail for and have yet to pay more than $250 for any one of them, including delivery.   Generally the packs I use the most are about half that price, including the ones Dave and I are using and pictured below.  So it is hard to ignore the stark differences in price and quality.   I'm not here to  bash anyone either just a little reality check from the packs I saw being used in the last month or so.  That said I will eventually point out some pretty bad examples imo of current packs.  So don't kill the messenger here.   I have no dog in the fight just reporting what I saw and my opinions on the topic. My suggestion to you as a smart consumer here is read between the lines...take a close look at what you see and  decide according to your own needs.

I have seen and used a lot of packs over the years.  The design and workmanship I still find fascinating.  If you are new to climbing specific packs (yes there is such an animal) or have yet to find one that really fits you hopefully this group of blogs on climbing packs will help you get more for your dollar and the best pack for your own needs.

As I repeat often and honestly mean,  "what I use may not be what you want to use and what works for me may not work for you."      And it pays to remember I am not trying to sell you anything.  The info and opinions here is free.  The real question is.....is the information useful to you?

The same custom CCW packs are pictured here made from different fabrics.

2lbs 7oz. for the red ballistics cloth below and  2 lbs. even for the black Spectra ripstop pack pictured above.

Mark Twight @

http://www.marktwight.com/discourse.php?id=4

"June 24-26 Steve House, Scott Backes and I climbed the Czech Direct on Denali. The first ascent, in 1986, required 11 days and approximately 1000' of fixed rope. Kevin Mahoney and Ben Gilmore made the second ascent over 7 days in May, 2000. We climbed it in 60 hours non-stop. We carried no bivouac gear apart from a 2lb Down or Polarguard jacket each and two MSR XGK stoves in order to melt snow fast enough to stay hydrated. Starting with just 22oz of fuel for each, these ran out of gas at hour 48. A total of 55lbs was split between two packs, (18lbs were water), leaving the leader pack-free to move fast.

The Czech Direct is 9000' high but only 5500' present any climbing difficulty: ice climbing up to 90°+ and rock to UIAA V+ (USA 5.9). We belayed 31 (60m) pitches, simul-climbed some terrain and soloed the rest including the first 1000' where the Czechs belayed 9 pitches. After crossing the bergschrund at 6am, we passed the Czech's 2nd bivouac site at 8am and their 3rd bivy by 11 and reached their 4th at 2pm where we brewed and ate. The climbing was fantastic and there was a lot of it. The Czech topo showed 24 pitches of UIAA III (USA 5.4) or harder. Ice conditions were such that we never holstered our tools -- but we did have to file them twice during the climb."

In his book Extreme Alpinism, Twight for better or worse defined how much a climbing pack should weigh.

The magic number?  Less than 3.8 pounds. 

Twight also said, "frameless packs work fine for loads up to 35# and carrying more than 35# usually guarantees failure" 

There are two points I am trying to make here.  The first is most of us carry too much crap around and don't pay attention to what it is we put in our packs.  The other is the pack materials (fabric used ), the weight and the costs don't have to be exotic or astronomical to have a awesome climbing pack.  Here is why.

The pack I am using today is based on a 70's vintage Chouinard FISH pack.   The FISH name came from the smell of the early ballistics nylon used for that pack's body.  When I finally retired the pack in the '90s the shoulder strap seams were literally rotting and falling apart.  But the pack body was still intact and usable after hundreds of miles of hiking and thousands of vertical feet of climbing and hundreds of feet of hauling.

The heavily modified FISH pack's weight in ballistics nylon with a foam pad?  1lb 15oz.

Bottom line?  Nothing wrong with good pack cloth fabrics even today.  Yes they add some weight to a climbing pack compared to the super lwts.   But in a 35/40 Liter sack size like what I am using it is 7 oz of long term durability.  It is easy to get well under 3# on a realistic climbing size pack these days.

My personal climbing pack and its design here:

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/01/my-climbing-pack.html

More on climbing packs in general here:

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/12/climbing-packs.html

I like most I suspect I have been easily swayed by the outdoor industry and their paid advertising.  I see gear being used on hard climbs, I want to emulate those climbers and their climbs and a good place to start I figure is having like gear.  Right?  Well it turns out that much of that gear is either given freely or given at such discounts that it is hard not to accept the favor if it is something you will use.  So the guys with the biggest budgets get their products show cased more often in the climbing rags, climbing forums  and on places like this,  climbing blogs.  That gets spun into the best makers even adding labels from the biggest players on to some of the highest quality goods.  Or the weakest attempts at gaining credibility simply claiming it is your product being used when it clearly (to those who really know) it isn't. 

OK lets talk a bit about pack design.  Climbing packs should be simple and sturdy in construction.  The design and pattern for a good climbing pack is how ever pretty complicated.

Just one example of pattern cutting and complicated or simple design efforts.  A pear shaped pack on top and a cylindrical pack shape on the bottom.  Each has its place.

Good look at the S shaped curved back panel pattern from a BI Warthog.   Simple pack complicated design.

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/07/blue-ice-new-warthog-alpine-pack.html

All three of  these packs have only two main vertical seams and are made from two main pieces of fabric (front and back)  plus the bottom piece which is the third.  

No where near the total but try counting the load bearing seams on this pack.  The number of pieces of fabric and the resulting seams left untaped in this particular pack surprised me.

Try counting the number of seams and fabric pieces in your favorite pack.  Every seam is a weak point in the pack's design.  It is much better to cut a perfect pattern than it is to build a shaped pattern by using many different pieces of fabric and sewing them together.  Even the very best fabrics easily fail at a poorly sewn seam.   Use a poorly designed pattern, add bad sewing and quality control and you end up with packs that fall apart in use.

This from an email exchange earlier in the week with one of my climbing partners:

"I bought my white one 30L NWD (which is now tearing apart and all taped up) in April 2010. Its my "go to" alpine multi day pack pretty much in summer in Cascades.  Oh, did I tell you what I found the other day?  One of the shoulder straps attachment seams is half torn apart which implies I need to fix it (again!). I am afraid it would not survive another trip."

Mind you this is a less than 2 year old,  current production, $500 retail pack the owner is discussing with me!   And it is not the same $500 pack being discussed on an Internet forum at the top of this blog!  Just the same US domestic manufacturer.  I've seen this particular $500 NWD pack in person and truthfully...it is duct tape holding it together.   I wouldn't personally take it on another climb.  Happily it is not my pack or my choice.  'Cuz I would be pretty pissed.   I'm being kind here by not posting the pictures.

Take a look inside your favorite pack.

Here are some examples of well built packs and their stitching and tape jobs.   The FISH pack not so much.  But hard to argue its durability after 20 years of hard climbing and ZERO required repairs.  I included the last pack pictured from a Canadian manufacture that uses multiple seams and fabric pieces with an exceptionally well fitting pattern that is sewn extremely well.  Lots of ways to build a quality pack.  Pick your own wisely.

It is worth noting the bit of fabric here to back up the externally sewn accessory box/X  sewing pattern.  The tape job on the seam is also well done imo.

 This one's sewing is very clean and much more likely to hold up because of multiple stitch lines.  These are the shoulder strap tacks.  It is also a well worn 3 year old pack.  In fact it is the the red ballistics nylon one I have posted any number of pictures of in the past.  The clones to this pack in Spectra and Dyneema ripstop look the same internally.   All the sewing and taping is very clean and tidy.
 

Clean taped seams here.  And just as likely cleanly sew seams under the tape.  Note the dbl seams under the tape and the double sewn over seams just outside the tape on this pack bottom.  All of that is why these packs will take year after year of abuse and stay usable.  Not a season or two of use and a roll of duct tape to keep them just functionable. 

Here is my 30+ plus year old Chouinard FISH pack.  Good enough sewing and no taped seams...which was the norm for a $40 pack in the late 70's.   The sewing looked like shit but lasted  through 20 years of hard use.  But why would you put up with this level of  workmanship today at 5 or worse yet 10 times the price.

I won't. 

This one is from a Canadian manufacture that uses multiple seams and fabric pieces with an exceptionally well fitting pattern that is sewn extremely well.  This one is 5+ years old and used hard.  Internally it still looks new.

A climbing pack in use!

Alley Swinton climbing, Dave Searle photo

http://davesearle.me/

Let me leave you with some facts.  The actual weights of packs I have had here on my digital scale.

CCW 35l custom climbing sack, Spectra rip stop, 2# even (based on a Ozone)
Same CCW in ballistics nylon 2# 7oz
Same CCW in Dyneema r/s 1# 12oz
REI Flash 18L 9.2oz 
Arcteryx Khazri 35l  2# 13oz 
CCW Chaos, custom 21" back, Spectra r/s, 3# 10oz
Jensen 4oz. red pack cloth LG 1# 11oz
Jensen green 8oz Cordura 2#3oz
Cilo 30L in 210d Dyneema r/s 17" back  2# 9oz

Part 3 of "climbing packs" will be a discussion of what IMO you really need on a alpine climbing specific sac.

Ski Packs? Camp USA 260 and 600, Arcteryx Khamski 38

 

 

Truth is I am spoiled ("no chit", some of you must say) because I really do have some amazing gear.  And I get exposed to a lot more that isn't so amazing.   Packs in particular for this discussion. Randy at Cold Cold World has indulged me over the last few years by making what I still think is the best climbing sac I have ever used, let alone seen..  And that opinion includes the newest Arcteryx and Patagonia climbing packs along with the no name stuff floating around the Internet as a "alpine pack".   But sadly, a climbing pack is clearly not a ski pack.   It is close mind you but without the ski attachments and the extra "bag" for touring kit you still only have a climbing sack.  Useful but not idea for my own use. 

Climbing Packs part 4

Steve House on the N. Face of Alberta, April of 2008

Custom CCW pack made to order.  photo courtesy of Vince Anderson 

http://www.skywardmountaineering.com/

Screen snap shot from a video featuring Colin Haley in the Spring of 2011, Chamonix,

Patagonia prototype pack, no lid.  Same pack Colin and Mikey Shaefer used on Devil's Thumb.  And the pack Colin used in lectures for show and tell here in Seattle. 

http://colinhaley.blogspot.com/2010/08/devils-thumb-diablo-traverse.html

http://www.colinhaley.blogspot.com/

http://vimeo.com/23577174

This is the last blog in a 4 part series on climbing packs.  It really isn't fair of me to emphasize the fact of just how good basic packs are with pictures of Steve House, Colin Haley, Vince Anderson and Mikey Schaefer all using similar type packs for their own climbing.  There are dozens of other pack manufactures out there and lots of extremely good alpinists using much more complicated packs.  I have nothing to gain from promoting these simple pack ideas.  And the same pack ideas were around when I started climbing, long before Twight, House or Haley began their own adventures.   

But these guys are picky about their own gear and can use or have anything they want made.  Which for me means it is likely worth paying attention from time to time to what they are using.

You need to look close in the left hand margins of this picture but Vince Anderson's pack on Alberta is there as well.

Steve with the lid on while on Alberta.

photos courtesy of Vince Anderson

http://www.skywardmountaineering.com/

But the pack style isn't just for the super stars.  Here is another set of packs I mentioned previous.  Stock CCW Ozone on the left in red ballistics cloth and a custom CCW climbing pack on the right in the Spectra grid.  Good side by side size comparison for volume. 

packs and photo courtesy of Ryan@bfmgs

http://bigfootmountainguides.com/2012/04/13/the-perfect-climbing-pack/

More here:

http://www.larsonweb.com/backpacks/id1.html

And finally two more custom CCWs.  My stripped version that weights in at 22oz.    My point here is don't believe the ad hype.  When you start looking at climbing pack weights  make sure you actually weigh your choices or go to someone you can trust to give you the weights.  I have listed most of the major players in the blog at some point.  

Five, 60 meter ropes in this one and 30#

Even at 22oz my custom version is a amazingly tough in Spectra and not a tiny pack.

Nastia's  new, custom version of the Ozone with a 17" back sewn up in Spectra ripstop with compression straps, crampon patch and straps with a lid attached on the left.   It weighs in at 28oz with the lid, removable foam back pad and all.   Nastia's  custom Ozone is a much smaller pack than my 21"  backed custom CCW.  Which makes perfect sense as I am 6'1" and she is 5'4".

In the alpine, where this style of pack excels. 

Photo courtesy of OlegV

Michael Wejchert's  custom Cold Cold World Ozone loaded for late-season ice climbing.  "Inside are boots, extra layers, two water bottles, and my puffy. Under the lid are my crampons and helmet. I love how the lid stretches to accommodate a helmet or rope." 

Lid in the pack..easy. 

The tool attachment system: shock cord, essentially. Four bar-tacked tabs give some options for ice tools or a foam pad for single-push climbs and the like. Randy made sure the tabs were big enough for carabiners also. Totally removable for summertime rock climbing.

More here on Michael's custom version:

http://www.farnorthclimbing.blogspot.com/2012/04/company-next-door.html

Blue Ice, the new Warthog alpine pack!

Finally back to some alpine climbing content!  It is almost August after all...skiing has to stop some time right?  Well for the moment anyway...I want another run from the top of Rainier before I am done skiing for the season!

If you have seen this:

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/01/my-climbing-pack.html

You know I am into really basic climbing packs.  And I continue to use really simple climbing packs.  Once in awhile I get side tracked and try the newest options that interest me.  Of course I have used the older Blue Ice packs, the 45, the 30 and the Mono among others.  But I am pretty set in what I think works.

The Mono has kept my attention but I've been too lazy to get that review done.  Some how it seems a conflict of interest since I sell Blue Ice gear as well.   And the fact my wife has stolen my personal Mono.  Hard to write it up.  I'll work on that review when she is out of town and I have my hands on the Mono again.

But the new Warthog is hard to ignore (as you can see by the color).   No way anyone is sneaking this one off without me knowing.  So I am going to give you my take on it now before it happens.   

If you look at the custom CCW packs I have Randy make for myself (30L) you'll likely notice the similarities of the Blue Ice Warthog (27L) my custom packs and the original, stellar CCW Ozone.  First is they are very close in size, with the Warthog being the smallest of the bunch..  Second they are are really simple packs with very complicated and intricate patterns, which takes a high degree of  skill to sew.

I'd really like to take credit for some of the Warthogs design work.  But sadly I can't.  Not even a tiny bit.   I first saw the early prototypes of the Warthog at the Blue Ice offices last March.  I was impressed then because it is a pack I might have designed if given the chance.  More impressed now that I have one in hand.

I probably mentioned this once before.  Back in March one of my partners was looking in Snell's (all over Cham actually) for a new climbing pack.  Randy wasn't interested in more pia custom work.   So Matt was out of luck on a custom CCW piece.  Of the two walls full of new packs at Snells' only one Grivel and one Blue Ice offering interested him.  Which should tell you a lot about the currently  available climbing packs.  He made a trip to the Grivel factory first.  And his choice in packs was eventually found worthy on the Ginat among other climbs that winter and spring.

As good as the pack he has is, too bad he didn't get to see this one.

I try lots out a lot of gear.  But having a full set of made to order custom sacs kinda limits my interest in other climbing sacs.  It isn't easy to live up to my admittedly harsh and very critical standards for a climbing pack.  I have put a lot of thought and money into what best works for me.  There is no reason to take second best into the mtns.

Enter the newest, Blue Ice pack, the Warthog!

Love the color.  I Iike that the pack is small, light and simple.  It actually fills the "small pack" gap in my pack line up.  Same kind of sac both Randy and I like a lot but no one seems to be able to sell consistently.   Good shoulder straps on this one and a easily adjustable sternum strap on sliders.

the Sternum straps misaligned on purpose

Two different thicknesses on the foam used  in the shoulder strap.  The thicker stuff is set high in the strap where it can take the bulk of the load.    Straps are attached to the bag via small wings sewn to the pack body.  And sewn cord loops on the straps as well. Nice detail.  The narrow and unpadded waist belt is tape with a buckle and easily removable.  The perfect choice for this pack.  The bottom of the bag is reinforced but not dbl. layered.  All the tie in points are reinforced and ARE dbl layered.  Nice detailing.  I'll say that a lot in this review.  It is worth repeating.

reinforced sewing and taped seams

All the seams are taped internally.  Shoulder straps tighten by pulling them down. There is a full size (water bladder)  internal hydration pocket that has been pleated and bellowed.   It makes a full badder easy to fit.

Hydration pocket and more taped seams

Again nice detailing.  A Velcro hydration hose holder as well.
Thin foam pad is sewn into the pack.   Call it a bivy pad or just pack padding.  Either would be accurate.  But it is not removable.


The packs back has a definitive "S" cut to the back panel.  Huge advantage for fit on a simple climbing pack.

The rather pronounced S shaped bottom of the back panel from the side 

Single lid strap for hold down.  Lid is sewn on tightly to the pack's top hem.  And the straps are the right length.  Elastic keepers on every strap, shoulders, waist and lid.  Another great detail.  Lid is perfectly sized to cover a fully loaded pack with the skirt drawn tight.  None of this stuff is easy to do or more importantly, easy to do right.  There is a hole for your hydration hose through both pack and lid.  And a single rope strap that is fixed via a Fast Tex style nylon buckles made by Duraflex.  Pack is actually sewn in Vietnam under Blue Ice's and  Giovanni's personal supervision..  The lid has three (yes three) pockets all YKK zippers   Two of them are on the out side and one underneath the lid.

The small back pocket also holds a net of sorts that is easy to deploy or store back in the pocket when not in use.  It is made to attach your helmet easily to a full pack.  Helmets aren't the only item the net will hold, just the most obvious.  Jackets pants, skins or crampons can just as easily be stashed under the net  Slick design work on this one. Did I mention I like the color combo.  It is going to be great for pictures :)

The "hair net" on top of the pack

Crampons can go under the lid, with the rope strap holding them in place with the pack body offering some protection from sharp points.  There are two traditional ice axe holders on the pack..both with reinforced dbl layering sewn through attachments.  Easy enough to securely lash on a tool a little less traditional.   A small quick link in place of the mini biners would be even cleaner but I was going with a quick "green" solution.  A little imagination here will go far if you are using the newest technical tools.   Should be little worry on that one.

Wow!  Some sweet looking Nomic hammers there :)

http://coldthistletools.blogspot.com/

The pack closes on a 3"  skirt with a single draw string closure.   The haul loop is flat 3/4" nylon tape that is folded in thirds and sewn to make an easier to manage haul loop which can be connected to the axe upper tabs as well for a 3 point lift.  Again a nice detail.  The back panel on my early production pack is a full 18".  Surprisingly, it is a size I can work with on this pack.  Long shoulder straps and a good pattern on the back panel allow it to fit my long back.

Short or tall most will be able to get a good fit with this pack.   It is a climbing pack, and there is plenty of head clearance while looking up with the helmet of your choice when the pack is fully loaded up.

Cost:  78 Euro
Directly from Blue Ice (it should be close to that here in the US)
Weight is 1# 10.4oz or 750g...on my digital scale.  Right on!
Pack material is Cordura, with a pack cloth externally and a smother material against your back and skin on the shoulders.
I can carry 20 to 25 lbs this one.  That is more than I want to climb with for weight.  Less is always better given the option.

Rope strap, hydration hose hole and short skirt

How big is 27 Liters?  The pack will just hold two 60m 10.5 ropes in the main bag.  With two ropes you can still get the cuff closed, if only barely.  A one liter water bottle, will fit in the top lid pocket with a tiny bit of space to spare for the odd packet of GU to keep you running or the odd bite to eat if you pack small.  Pull out the net for your helmet or other pieces of gear/clothing as required.

John Bouchard BITD with a Karrimore climbing a new mixed route on the Grands Charmoz,  August 1975 with Steve  Zajchowski.

I need to add a few words about Blue Ice.   I am pretty sure everyone in the office climbs.  Easy when you live and work in the best alpine climbing environment i nthe world!   Easy to see the influence by the design work, like the Boa, the Chouca and now the Warthog  that the designers know what they are looking for.  By my acocunt some serious energy and effort went into this pack.  It is the first off the shelf,  production, alpine pack I have seen in several decades that I will climb with.  For those that do remember the old Karrimore Joe Brown pack or a Chouinard Fish pack, the Warthog is better done than either and in modern materials but very similar for what they were designed for.   It is a simple sac.  And for those that actually know what it is to be used for (single push alpinism) it is simply a stellar design, with a great attention to detail and sewn very well.  It is obvious to me it comes from  a group of climbers serious about making good kit...not just any bit of kit.  Bravo to Blue Ice for the effort!

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/02/light-is-always-right-part-duex.html

The party line?

Weight:

720 gr.  (mine came out a bit more @ 750g)
Features:
■helmet holder
■top lid with external & internal pocket
■chest buckle with security whistle
■rope attachment under the lid
■dual ice axe holders
■hydration-compatible
■removeable hipbelt
■safety pocket with key holder

Finishing:
■high quality Duraflex buckles
■durable YKK zipper

Fabrics/material:
Main: 500 denier CORDURA®
Reinforced bottom: 1000 denier CORDURA®
Lining: Nylon ripstop 210D

To build a highly resistant pack we have chosen to work with CORDURA®. CORDURA® is one of the most durable nylon fabric manufactured to date and it is widely used for high end applications and for producing gear where tearing and abrasion resistance are crucial. Moreover, the CORDURA® we use, is certified by Blue Sign, which is an important factor for our philosophy of minimizing our impact on the environment. Read more about CORDURA® on our technologies page.

Product overview:Minimalist backpack for fast and demanding one day ascents.


Design & features:The Warthog 26L is a light, extremely resistant backpack with all the essential accessories you need and nothing more. This is the ideal backpack for light and fast one day climbs on technical routes: it is compact to allow freedom of movement and it is super resistant for the most demanding conditions.

As the larger Blue Ice packs the Warthog can hold two ice axes. The simple system of webbing loops and cord locks allows not only a quick attachment but also a steady hold. Additional features are rope holder, helmet holder, exit for hydration tube and a removable hip belt.

Thanks to its stability, shape, volume and comfort it has proven an excellent pack not only for climbing but also for back country days when skis are to be kept on the feet during the whole ascent.
Ideal uses: single day climbs, mountaineering



(Agreed 100% btw on that observation and bet you'll see some Cham ski guides using the Warthog next winter.  Might be a wise color choice if so ; )

No way it could be just this easy though to put ski on this pack...or could it?  My Se7en Summits strapped right on like the Warthog was made for them.   Next test is to see if the axe loops can haul a 6# ski set up.