More from Summer OR 2013

New Trango Cube

I am jammed for time right now and haven't been able to write up much of what I saw at OR.

So here is a drive by of my highlights.  Hopefully more thoughts to come on each piece when I get time.

La Sportiva rock shoes..

The newest La Sportiva touring free ride boot...4 buckles! 

DMM's newest tools

Trango with a proper gear sling and a innovative and nifty rope tarp

Grivel's crampon binding conversion kit!!

OR's Astroman rock climbing shirt...which I really liked!

It is a very limited market, with a really cheap core audience. Bravo for OR  jumping into that snake pit.

New tech approach shoes from Scarpa

a new, flat lasted trad shoe

Much anticipated Pro version of the Rebel Carbon.

It takes clip on crampon now has a bit of insulation and worth the wait I suspect. 

The Rebel Ultra certainly was.

A mini biner I really liked from Edelrid

I hate lockers...but not this one...stoked on Edelrid here!

MSR Reactor is likely headed for the bin....Newest Jetboil rooooocccckkks!

OK, no question, I want a Machine 3.0!

Not really very sociable to just bring pictures to OR ;=)

Two sizes and two colors..Acrteryx's newest climbing pack is slllllick!

Camp as always has the goods...not new but it is the goods! 

New pack from Metolius....that is built from haul bag material

And a 000 TCU...for thinnnn cracks

Mammut's climbing harness in sew into their  pants and shorts now.  Kool idea.

My personal RAB model in the new award winning lwts.

More Scarpa porn.....yes I want two of the three

and no I can't afford them all either!

and some of the newest Dynafits TLT 6s as well!

My '80s brief case for comparison and the smallest Grivel haul pag/day pack.

Rolex Sub and the newest Luminox Navy Spec watch,

Mountain Equipment down!  But they did indeed have more than just down.

There is more but I wanted to get some of the newest stuff out there for you to see.

Beal Unicore

The new "Gully" from Beal is a 7.3 rated double and twin rope with Unicore construction @ 36g/m

available Jan/Feb 2014

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YwtbKe4Vfag&list=PLEB14971E3A7B76D4

Ice tool rotation?

1st gen Petzl Nomic and a new Trango Raptor

"Here is a bit of rehashed info (from 2010) on the rotation issue some are having with the newest tools.

If you have bought a "new" tool that looks a lot like a Nomic something worth pondering if it isn't "working" quite right for you.  A few people coming from a Nomic are finding an uncomfortable "bounce" in a few of the newer tools on ice and the tool being a little scary when pulling bulges. If you are new to this kind of tool likely you will have even more problems climbing pure ice and be blaming all sorts of things. Generally what is getting blamed is not going to be a "fix".

Climbers have little or no no institutional memory generally.
Yes even a couple of degrees one way or the other on pick angle will make a difference.  But  if it were only that obvious  it would be an easy fix.  Blaming the pick angle as "too steep" generally isn't the problem.  I can think of two tools specifically that opening up the grip even just a little and gaining more rotation in the swing makes a big difference.

It is not a hand /glove size issue for length of grip.  Much as one might first think between pick angle and grip size.  I've found that it is neither of those particular issues. 

more rotation

less rotation

Many of us asked for a spike on the Nomic.  Then BD gave it to us as the new Fusion. But if you have climbed very long you'll remember how we all choked the end of a shaft to get a better swing on short tools often almost negating/chopping the spike off all together for steep ice performance to eliminate bounce and help pulling bulges    BD's Fusion spike you can remove.  Take a close look at the new DMM, the newest Grivel "Machine",  Edelrid's, Camp's X Dream offering or Trango Raptor.  Not all the grips are the same.  Tight grips for the little pinky limit rotation as do spikes (most every one's) or additional blades (Petzl).  Bigger is likely better when it comes to the size of the constriction for the little finger.   Smaller is better on the spike.  Simply because either in the wrong size (any size?) will limit the rotation available from the tool.  Limited rotation means a unfriendly tool in many ways on pure ice.

Brian pulling on 1st gen Nomics

For some the arc of swing on a new tools with a spike intact is limited to small side of 180 degrees without changing your grip. While the older Nomic and a smooth pommel (no blade) can go something like 210 degrees. Don't hold me to the exact numbers but realise one tool can swing a bigger arc than the other inside the palm of your hand. It is important for pulling bulges. 

Nomic/Fusion over lay

Very cool to have a removable spike or no spike. Remove the spike for steep mixed and ice and you'll gain some but not all of the arc/rotation back. Most of the bounce will also disappear. With the use of a Dremel/grinder/hand file (or just some good rough emery paper) you can get an equal amount of swing arc on the new Fusion/Raptor by rounding the inside and end of the pommel more like the older Nomic grip. Might make a big difference for you if you are having small issues with any of the newer tools with a tight bottom grip.  Opening up the trigger slot on the bottom of the grip will gain  rotation of the tool in your hand.

A simple, inexpensive mod, takes just a few minutes with power tools, that might make a big difference for you. Down side is you loose the umbilical attachment on the spike. But that's not a big deal on hard cragging anyway and most will use umbilicals and the spike on longer stuff no matter what small disadvantages on hard technical ground they both might create.

More rotation in the shaft will also allow a stronger grip with less effort.  Much as you might like that super tight grip on your little finger.  Some times bigger is better!"

 

DMM Switch

Edelrid's

 

 

Trango Raptor

 

 

Camp X Dream

 

 

That is the modern stuff.  The idea of the tool having enough rotation in the hand to be useful is not new.  I didn't come up wiht this stuff by myself.  Just been around long enough to see how it has changed climbing and always made it easier if the reasoning is better understood.

 

Here are the ferrule and spike from the classic Chouinard Bamboo Piolet (top) and the second more technical tool, the Chouinard Bamboo Zero (bottom).  The Zero has been taped for a better grip.

 

 

 

 

The Ferrule on each tool is the same size.  The spike on the Zero is almost exactly a 1/2 size replica of the original Piolets.  6cm cut down to 3cm.  One reason....and that was to allow better rotation in the hand.  Which resulted in easier sticks and less effort. 

 

Some even went to the extreme and prefered no spike for their own water fall tools.

 

 

 

 

The mystery audience?

In the last week this particular blog post has been read over 5000 times.
Generally you can track that kind of traffic to a source of and understand why the interest.  This time I can not do so for some reason.  No electronic foot print to follow.  Nothing.

Several days with 7K visitors from Germany alone, now this.  Very strange.  Any ideas?


"The Elitist Attitude"..a must read for the Outdoo...
Feb 3, 2013, 12 comments

chouinard ice poster

My long time climbing partner has an original Chouinard poster (this one in fact) for sale if anyone is interested.  If so you can leave a bid in the comments.

super topo comments here:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2200762/Chouinard-Ice-poster

Robson! NA skimo at its best!

Mt. Robson Skimounaineering from Reiner on Vimeo.


Real mountaineering here.  No cow path to follow.  The run off the summit ridge had me puckered at my desk!

And a clear view as to why Brian and I rant on occasion about the CORRECT mount point for skis used on this kind of terrain.

More here:

http://theoutsideout.blogspot.com/

And congrads guys on one of the best efforts with skis this year!  Bravo!

The Skinny ropes?

 

 

I would prefer to use one of the modern lwt single ropes given the choice in most situations.  Lots of them available these days.  No surprise I am a big fan of the Beal Joker pictured above and own two of them.

But on any route I need to rappel off of I would prefer a twin or maybe a double rope.  But generally a twin.  I find the twin format easy enough to use on most ice routes I am doing and "safe enough".  A double rope will generally add to the safety factor while adding some weight.  Many of the better modern ropes will allow you to use them as a twin and a double and in some cases a twin, double and single.

But you need to play close attention to the following on all these ropes.
Falls/ Impact Force/Elongation/Extension

The down side of the skinny twin ropes now available (or at least the pair I have been using for a while now) is they are really skinny and the more common belay plates can be problematic.   Too fast on steep rappels for my taste and too stretchy sometimes if loaded as a single rope.

My current twin rope system is a pair of Beal Ice Twins @ 7.7mm and 37g per meter.  There are other great ropes and I have used most of them.  I just happen to be on Beal at the moment.  My first and more than half of them bought at retail fwiw.

I saw a few new ropes at OR this summer.  Some of them held great interest for me.  Enough interest that I may change a good part of my ice climbing system for some (but not all)  projects.

The Edelrid Flycatcher was one @ 6.9mm and 35g per meter.  And no question the skinny winner!   I comes with a specifically designed belay device...which it needs IMO.  All of the ropes mentioned here need extra care on the belays and rappels.  More on this rope system specifically coming up shortly.

More here on my take on ropes:
http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2013/03/ropes.html

 

 

Beal also has the new 7.3mm Gully @ 36gram per meter.   Twin and Dbl ratings.  Late Jan, 2014 delivery.  36gram per and  7.3mm?   Interesting trade off on the already thin and light weight Ice Twin at 38gram per meter and 7.8mm.  Another rope I will be using as a comparison to my Ice Twin when I get the chance.

Petzl has a new 7.7mm twin.  Sorry unsure what the weight was on the Petzl.  I would suspect it is close to the Beals offerings.  Mammut has at least one twin @ 42grams per meter.

 

" Monster Ropes by Metolius are  7.8mm and 38g/m and a double or twin.  They are a contender." 

Thanks Brian!

I should have more info on all these ropes shortly.

Trango with a 8.1 that is both a twin and a double @ 42grams per meter.  They are a very clean set of ropes and available now.

No doubt I missed a few of the new "skinny ropes".   But things keeping getting lighter and more fragile...truly "race parts" in gear these days.

Problem is..high performance "race parts" fail in a spectacular fashion.  And cost a lot in $ to maintain.  Ask anyone who races cars.  The twins in particular are not "beginners" ropes IMO.  With the current technology I think we are pushing the envelope on ropes.  Sometimes, in some places/circumstances bigger and heavier might just be better and much safer.  I know it is always cheaper.

I like soloing on ice.  Take a look at these ropes yourself.  Decide for yourself just how close you are to soloing.

But you really need to check the ratings (Falls/ Impact Force/Elongation/Extension) on all these ropes to see if they are appropriate for your own use.  YMMV

Seriously?

Hey I am trying to stay on point.  But I get distracted easily.  It is mid summer afterall ;-)  This from a guy that has a hard time riding pavement on a low tubular .  Check this ride on the wall out!

More here:

http://bleacherreport.com/articles/1729554-cyclist-michal-marosi-pulls-off-stunning-wall-ride-to-win-race

and more crazy fun stuff!

Nanga Parbat Massacre Investigators Shot Dead

Thursday, August 8, 2013

"Nanga Parbat Massacre Investigators Shot Dead in Chilas

Three security officials probing the Nanga Parbat Diamir BC Massacre were shot dead in the town of Chilas, on Tuesday. It’s reported that Superintendent Police Hilal Ahmed along with Army officers Colonel Ghulam Mustafa and Captain Ashfaq Aziz were returning from Deputy Commissioner House when unidentified armed men opened fire on their vehicle. "

 

http://altitudepakistan.blogspot.com/2013/08/nanga-parbat-massacre-investigators.html

The "new" alpine ice boots?

These are all new to me and the blog anyway.   After all the blog is suppose to about alpine ice and winter climbing.  Not the foo-foo world of skiing :)  Some really good boots available these days for cold weather climbing.  The key is finding the one pair that fits YOU the best!  Hopefully I'll be able to shed some light on that part of the process with the up coming reviews, weights and comparisons.

A few of the boots here now or coming shortly for reviews.  I can do better than the stock pictures I pulled off the net this morning :)

Zamberlan
3000 PAINE PLUS GTX RR

4000 EIGER RR

6000 DENALI RR

Asolo

 EIGER

 

 

 

 

 

La Sportiva Nepal Cube

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mammut Nordwand TL

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lowa 6000

 

 

and the newest Lowa 6000 below

 

 

Lowa Katok XT

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Salewa Pro Guide

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Scarpa Rebel Pro

 

 

 

OR Day 3

I'm two days behind on this post already.  The Show ended Saturday afternoon.

Day three for me was a marathon of appointments and wild eye wonder (as usual) generally finding something new around every turn.

The OR shows (summer and winter) are the ultimate toy store for grown ups.  And thankfully for me...nothing is for sale that you can walk out the door with.  Much of it not yet available but a 6 month wait on production.

This year three of us went down.  And all of us had differing interests.  Makes for some fun discussions.

Even with three of us looking there is no way we see everything let alone get all the details on what we do see.

I simply get over whelmed so I really try to concentrate on the alpine climbing arena and in general vendors I already am aware of.  Point is I never see everything and what I do see is generally biased in part from the get go. (Part of that is I so easily get lost in the dang place it  really is huge!)

One of the things I find of interest and likely out of date for most climbers  trying to go fast and light is a mini haul bag.   I saw three that really interested me but there might be others I haven't seen or wouldn't recommend.

Grivel  has smaller two models I really like.  And Metolius has a couple of smalelr bags and now some "cross overs" as well.  I'll come back to all of these later.

The super skinny (7mm +/-) ropes from Petzl, Beal and Edelrid have me really interested.  More on that subject shortly.

I learned more again about fitting boots and ice boots in particular as the  science and design continues to  getter better and better IMO on alpine/ice boots.  (8 boot reviews will go up shortly)

Clothes and technical wear?  Oh, my!  There are so many new pieces of clothing and so many exceptional fabrics and insulations.  I started climbing in wool, nylon and Ventile cloth.  

What we have  easily accessible now, I never imagined when we started climbing. 

I still think all the mountain sports from trail running, skimo, skiing, and any form of climbing (rock or ice) are getting closer and closer every season.  The tools and clothing we use now have more cross over use than ever before.   As they get more specialised with every season and every generation as well.  More specialised and still more more cross over applications?   One wouldn't think that would be the direction, but IMO it is.

Many of the cutting edge designers are starting to think along those lines as well...just as they continue to design more and more specific garments.

Much of my driving is along the old Oregon trail from Seattle to SLC to attend OR. The major portion of that drive from the Columbia River to just north of SLC in fact.

In total is a 800+/- miles/1300km drive one way.  I have a lot of time to think and review what I have seen at OR. 

What we have now for hard goods and software for climbing is as diverse in use and application as transportation, infrastructure and the generations of windmills in the current American West.

Amazing time to be climbing.  But like the newest windmills...not all good or all bad.  It will take some time to digest all the new products and add some context to what I think interesting enough to write about.  Cams, passive pro, biners, ropes, boots, packs, haul bags, watches and as always some new clothing and some of the newest TECHNOLOGY (that I think will go much much farther) will all  get some coverage..along with those man sized baby wipes :)

 

Hello Deutschland!

The last two weeks have had some big numbers (numbers of readers) coming from Germany.  I just wanted to thank everyone in Germany for the extraordinary support of Cold Thistle.  Those 6 and 7K page read days in the weekly graph?  Half are from Germany!

Many Thanks!