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The cold world of alpine climbing.

The cold world of alpine climbing.

Monday, December 17, 2012

How much did it weigh, 1984?


In 1984 John Bouchard wrote of his and Titione's, six day, January ascent of the S. Face of Aconcagua with a total of.....".no more than 10# of clothing and 25# packs".  The details are reprinted above.

I added up a similar and very specific list a few days ago.   The price of this full kit list today could easily make a grown man weep to get it under 10#.

Total is 8.9#

* 2 pair of socks liner and a med weight 
5.25 oz/ 150g

* boots/inner boots
2# 8 oz/ 1134g  Scarpa Phantom 6000 with Baruntse liner
               
*Long john bottom
166g/ 5.8oz wool blend 166g /5.8oz                     

*Pants
602g/ 21oz bib in Polartec's Neoshell/ Power Shield Pro/ grid fleece interior

*t shirt
220g / 8oz Patagonia lwt fleece zip T

*shell
340g/ 12oz Westcomb Shift 12oz

(or combine the two with a Arcteryx Venta MX 22oz / 628g and save 1oz. )

*insulation/ wind shell layer
RAB Xenon Hoody 311g / 11oz

*Belay jacket
Mtn H Nilas 631g/ 22.2oz

*gloves
Mtn Hydra 262g / 9.25oz

*hat
Arc. Rho beanie
36g / 1.25 oz

*helmet
Petzl Meteor
224/ 7.9oz

Lots of different combos available.  This is the best I could do for the warmth involved and a systems approach.   How does your gear's weight measure up to 1984 standards?  And the more specific question I think, "how much better/warmer is it?"

5 comments:

Jon Rhoderick said...

What on earth is a hollow biner?? Yikes!

Dane said...

State of the art bitd. The best wire gates beat them for weight now.

Dane said...

Sorry, they aren't in production yet. I have a pair made from the same Polartec Neoshell Marmot is using for the Zion and a pair from the Neoshell laminated to the same material Patagonia is using for the Northwall jacket and pants.

Both rock. I have high hopes for the Northwall version. Weights are virtually the same. You'll see some side by side comparisons here soon.

Anonymous said...

any commercially available equivalent? i really need to replace my old patagonia softshell pants. any recommendations?
cheers
john

Dane said...

Patagonia Northwall pants..•Polartec Power Shield Pro with a Regulator high-loft grid fleece interior. Amazing fabric.