Old school, New school....lost and found?

Hess and Deborah from the North.

In the late spring of 1976, I and 3 others did out first Alaska trip.  Not flying into KIA but going farther north into what was then a little visited area.  David Roberts, Don Jensen had come before us as had others we didn't know and hadn't read about.  For us it was a good adventure

The tail of two tips....Dynafit's carbon, Nanga Parbat, Cho Oyu and Denali

Whole lot of Dynafit love happening on the Haute Route!

I am a big fan of the Dyanfit's newest Nanga Parbat, Cho Oyu.  And I suspect the Denali will be just as good or better of a ski if you need the extra width.   But!   And it isn't a big BUTT... more like a irritating PIA.  One that should have been caught a long time ago by the designers and Dynafit testers.   There is this one small problem.

The tip on these skis suck.  Yes the new tip design takes Dynafit's excellent skins well.  And no. my bitch isn't a square tip thing.  Although one has to wonder why a square tip other than to cut weight or more than likely just to be different..

What is annoying is a little sharp edged bump where the ski's edge and the ski/skin  tip insert meet.

 

If you double click on the photo above and look at the left edge of the ski where the edge and tip meet you'll notice a little indent and the resulting bump where they meet just short of the ski's edge end.

Seems trivial when you look at it.  But for me it isn't trivial.  It is really annoying.

Light weight clothing...ski touring specific.

The morning this picture was taken coming out of the Vignette hut it was cold and windy.  To be honest I don't think any of us thought we would really be skiing into Zermatt later that day.  Weather was coming in, it was cold and all of us were tired from the last 5 days of skiing.

 

Ski poles..me poles? A2.16 Pro Trailer, Mountian Pole! again.

Here is a pole drive by for ya....

My current pole collection dating back to the late '70s from right to left.

And until recently everything was still in use.  No more.

Good idea, but a poor understanding and  follow through on my part here:

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2013/11/can-you-open-your-mind.html

The gear list?

going, going ...gone!

Most won't care.  But a few have asked.   From the many options I have here to ski and climb in what did I take to or end up using full time in Chamonix?  Each was carefully chosen from a lot of options.
Never been to Chamonix when I didn't want to buy or think I "needed" something.  Of course I did eventually!  But this is what I actually used this trip to great satisfaction.  And better yet, never thought I lacked anything for gear or clothing.  I went heavy on ski and could have left the Hauscaran or the GPO at home...but not both.  The other two I used a lot.  Boots as well.  All good choices I'd take again. 

The ice axe......

My first lasting impression of "ice climbing" was a quote.  Don't remember where it came from now but most likely a European from the '30s who had spent some serious time on steep North Faces in the Alps.

"Where there is snow, we can go!"  

Westcomb Shift LT in Neoshell

 

Westcomb sez:
"Industry’s lightest Polartec® NeoShell® Jacket. The Shift Hoody offers no-compromise wind and water protection, in a featherweight shell. Designed so the gram counting outdoor adventurer can maximize experience with minimal weight."

For this year's trip to Chamonix I was determined to not over pack or take so much new gear that I would never get a chance to use it all.  I did exactly that last time.  Besides the over weight and excess luggage charges (which were as much as my original plane ticket!)  the entire process ended up a disaster.  Gear was lost or stolen mailing it back to save money and there was gear in France I never did get a chance to use.

PPP on my part.

Straps or brakes?

Entering the last gully on the Grand Envers

Rant mode on here and at full volume!

Peak Performance BlackLight Synthetic Puffy?

Sking into Zermatt.  Last day of the tour.  Clothing is sorted!

For those reading the  blog long term it is obvious I get pretty excited about my light weight synthetic puffs.  I own a bunch of them from different manufactures and at least attempt to use them all.  Arcteryx, Mountain Equipment, Mont Bell, Patagonia are some of my favorites.

But I am ever seldom happy for long.  The more you use the best gear available, the more it becomes clear on how to better it fro your own use.

FYI on content?

 

If you come here often, I suspect you will have noticed a distinct lack of new content lately.  Good reason for that.  I've been skiing and climbing in France and Switzerland for the past month with another to go before returning to Seattle. 

 

This trip has allowed me to test some theories, get to see and use some of the newest gear to best effect and so far, only scare myself spitless a few times to date.  But the trip isn't over yet!

 

Best part of the trip, and there have been many,  is I am already fully booked for Chamonix in  March and April of 2015!  

 

If you find the upcoming changes and newest content to Cold Thistle (and I have many planned ) interesting, entertaining and fun be sure to let me know.  I am pretty stoked about it all!  If next winter is any thing like the last 6 weeks.  2015 will simply be amazing here at CT!

 

Things should start happening in late May.  Stick around and see what you think!

Grivel Twin Gate?

Ya, I have seen a lot of fluff and faff in the climbing world.  When it comes to bits and pieces stuff comes and goes.  The bad or complicated stuff simply binned early on.  We all have some I suspect.  And really wish we didn't.

OK, skiing is fun. Now back to climbing ;-)

Easy goulotte climbing?  My favorite!

 

BG&E

Beyond">http://vimeo.com/78417409">Beyond Good and Evil
from morganhttp://vimeo.com/user5229233">morgan> on Vimeo.https://vimeo.com">Vimeo.>

Dare!

"Dare to live the life you dream....not the life you think you must."

Steep and fast!

The last resort?

This a project the NW locals should be all over supporting in any way possible!

No matter what you donate in time or money...if you ever need them it will be cheap by comparison.

https://www.facebook.com/SnohomishHRT

Raffle and dinner are only 10 days away.  Don't let the lack of a ticket scare you away!

The world of alpine web blogs?

the skin

 

 

 

Charlie

 

You'll want to dbl click these photos for full effect

A few of us finally got together for some easy but oh so good skiing here in Chamnonix.

TK, Matt, Brian and Charlie all gathered for a really fun ride today.  Simply brilliant skiing starting with a coffee in Chamonix, up the Midi tram and then a short, pleasant skin over into Italy.   Down 1200m of the de Toule Glacier to the Helbronner mid station.  Up that tram and another then back to Chamonix for lunch.  The blogs are here:

http://davesearle.me/

http://chamconditions.blogspot.fr/

http://www.skimolife.com/

I will eventually write more when I have some time but  I am not much on writing up my own trip reports.  Magical days with good friends, old and new, can deserve some pictures and words.  This was truly one of those days for me. 

The picture above is Charlie about to spray me with much of the crew following.  Me?  I'm in the middle of a perfect patch of steep snow with a huge shit eating grin.   Dave is pictured below at the last of the ice fall.  The route?   Half the Valle Blanc then up and down the de Toule Glacier, then up for coffee, and down the  Combe de La Vergie, down the right bank of the Seracs de Geant.

"Super Dave Searle" above"

 

I've skied on a lot of fine days.  Few better than this. 3600+m of vert. total, one "one"run.

 

All enhanced by the Italian coffee, grappa and French sunshine!

Guide de Montagne...

Chamonix is such a great place in so many ways.  For one example, literally hundreds of mountain guides live and work here full time.  For others is is just a stop along the yearly pilgrimage to see and work in some of the very special places in the world.

The Envers?

Day two was fun.

One of my goals this trip was to ski many of the classic Vallee Blanche routes that I hadn't bothered with previous.  One I didn't intend to ski was the Petite Envers.  Generally it is too crevassed for my likely.

Crochues-Bérard tour Chamonix....

As always the views and mountains here are incredible!

Can you name that classic N. Face?

http://www.alpineexposures.com/blogs/chamonix-conditions/11005353-grandes-charmoz-north-face

"Crochues-Bérard was a blast, best I've ever skied it."

Alexandre Buisse

Andy Nesbit interview....

Andy">http://vimeo.com/87197149">Andy Nisbet - 2014 Scottish award for excellence mountain culture
from Dave">http://vimeo.com/user799476">Dave MacLeod on Vimeo.https://vimeo.com">Vimeo.>

Thanks for the link Steve!

Patagonia?

Patagonia">http://vimeo.com/87395294">Patagonia: Attempt To Succeed
from Sam">http://vimeo.com/samvanbrempt">Sam Van Brempt on Vimeo.https://vimeo.com">Vimeo.>


Thanks for the suggestion Sam!

go get some!

Superfeet insoles?

 

 

I have spent 30+  years on Superfeet Kork custom insoles in my ski boots.  Was lucky enough today to spend an afternoon with Jeff Gray who is Superfeet's Director of Education and Training.  And what I got was an amazing education in a short amount of time.

Amazing Mtn photos...

Photo courtesy of and stolen from Cedric Bernardini 's blog

If you haven't seen Cedric Bernardini 's blog you should, if for no other reason than the amazing photos.

http://cedricbernardini.com/tag/cedric-bernardini/

I was gobsmacked...jaw dropping!

Have fun!

Spring ski classic

 

Sweet!

Tacul alpine ice...

Ski Packs? Camp USA 260 and 600, Arcteryx Khamski 38

 

 

Truth is I am spoiled ("no chit", some of you must say) because I really do have some amazing gear.  And I get exposed to a lot more that isn't so amazing.   Packs in particular for this discussion. Randy at Cold Cold World has indulged me over the last few years by making what I still think is the best climbing sac I have ever used, let alone seen..  And that opinion includes the newest Arcteryx and Patagonia climbing packs along with the no name stuff floating around the Internet as a "alpine pack".   But sadly, a climbing pack is clearly not a ski pack.   It is close mind you but without the ski attachments and the extra "bag" for touring kit you still only have a climbing sack.  Useful but not idea for my own use. 

The ice axe that glows... Bhend

 

Bhend Metallbau, Grindelwald Switerland
By Bruno Schull

 

            Who invented the ice axe?  Did shepherds scrambling back and forth between high pastures add crude picks to wooden alpine stocks, or is that just a climbing legend?  How did the long ice axes of the last century evolve into the short technical tools we know today?  I am not a historian, so I can not answer these questions, but I suspect that there are many different interpretations, and that the definitive story remains to be told.  What I can offer is the story of one ice axe, which has been made in largely the same form for over one-hundred-and-forty years, by four generations of the same family.  It’s the story of the ice axe which accompanied climbers on the first ascents of the highest mountain in the world, and the most infamous north face of the Alps.  It’s also a story about craft, an intangible combination of skill, tradition and values, fast disappearing in the modern world.  It’s the story of the Bhend ice axe. 

John Freeman on his ice pillar collapse

Video here:
http://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/ice-pillar-snaps-with-climber-on-it-heres-how-he-survived-%7C-sub-zero-ep-3/274337

Interview here:
http://www.climbing.com/video/watch-ice-pillar-fully-collapse-with-climber-still-on-it/

Gadd's comments here:
http://willgadd.com/riding-the-big-icicle/

"Why decision making is greater than a beacon"

amazing photo courtesy of http://garrettgrove.com/ from the Internet

 

Why decision making is greater than a beacon...

 

 

December 23rd, 2012 by Freeskier Magazine

Interview by Megan Michelson

Editor's note: This is a good read which I totally agree with BTW.

"Drew Tabke has been competing in big-mountain contests for the last eight years. In 2011, (and  again in 2013)  he won the overall title on the Freeskiing World Tour and placed second in 2012 on the Freeride World Tour. When he’s not competing, Tabke spends about 80 percent of his time in the backcountry, notching first ski descents in Washington’s North Cascades or in Chile’s Andes, where he spends three months each summer. Tabke, 28, spoke to us about his thoughts on the state of the backcountry while eating a burger at a pub in Seattle.
What draws you to the backcountry? I don’t like people telling me what to do. In ski areas, you have rules, ski patrol, and so many things that decide what you can and cannot do. In the backcountry, the best experience for me is having an idea of where I want to go and not using a guidebook and not getting too much information and having an authentic adventure. That’s my ideal.
Are there actually places left that haven’t been explored? Sure, in Washington, which is why I moved here from Utah. In Utah, it’s so hard to get somewhere where you can’t see another skin track. But in Washington, you may have a difficult approach, but then you get to a place where you have to figure out where to go, and you see no signs of other humans."

The rest is here:

http://freeskier.com/stories/why-decision-making-is-greater-than-a-beacon-with-drew-tabke

Scott Toepfer, a member of the Colorado Avalanche Information Center, takes depth measurements every 50 feet at the crown of a lethal avalanche near Loveland Pass. (Helen H. Richardson, The Denver Post)

Read more: Colorado avalanche victims were part of snowboard gathering turned tragic - The Denver Post http://www.denverpost.com/ci_23074729/colorado-avalanche-victims-bash-tragic#ixzz2vAUk4S1B

"Why not me?"

Dawn patrol proud of her Dynafit, Praxis and Camp!

If you have ever looked at anything on Cold Thistle and wondered. "why not me"?  I am here to ask you, "why not you?"

Much of life is only two things...actually showing up and when in doubt...run it out.  Take a risk...make a leap of faith.  You never know just how far it might take you!

 

More on this story in April ;-)

Deep Snow Skiing on Modern Equipment by E.C.Greg

photo courtesy of DPS

PNW Deep Snow Skiing on Modern Equipment and Personal Reflections on Skimo Equipment Progression

Guest Blog by E.C. Greg

I had the good fortune to ski in the PNW last weekend at the tail end of this significant storm/snow cycle and try out four excellent skis, all with Dynafit bindings. The skis were: 177 Dynafit Huascaran, 182 Praxis GPO, 174 Dynafit Cho Oyu and 178 La Sportiva Hang 5. The PNW Mountains received 10+ feet of snow in the last week/while we were there. All the skis were lots of fun and appropriate for the conditions.

Heros! Charlie Porter 1951-2014

 

"Charlie Porter has died in Punta Arenas, Chile after heart problems.

Ya, that was a bad idea!

Ever notice how things seem to  go badly when they start out, "Why not?"  "Betcha Can't!" or  "Watch this!"?

Tracy on boots and tech gear...

I'm sitting here at Dane's computer wearing my One's and amazed how great my boots fit!  Gear today is such a completely different world.

The Dynafit One PX-TF ski boot. Rich man, poor man?

Some times it is so easy to miss the obvious.   Last fall Tracy spent some time deciding on what boot she wanted to ski in this winter.  Typical of a lot of women she has a high arch and a high instep. 

Montana Ice

TERRA">http://vimeo.com/80046530">TERRA 824: Life on Ice
from Life">http://vimeo.com/lifeonterra">Life On TERRA on Vimeo.https://vimeo.com">Vimeo.>

PSA for the Eastside of Puget Sound boot fitters

Been to a few brick and mortar boot fitters lately. Shop personal seems to change yearly. Not always for the better. If you are anywhere on the Eastside, (Bellevue/Issaquah/Renton) Kevin and Zach at Gerk's Issaquah are doing exceptionally good work imo. Had them do 3 difficult fits today.

I've driven into Seattle and Bellevue several times this year for boot fits... most of them a waste of time. Much to my disappointment.

I've worked with both guys previous at other stores 4 or 5 years ago and had no idea where they had landed. Anyway, imo, they are doing good work on climbing, AT and Alpine boots.  Including all my double boots, both La Sportiva and Scarpa.  As you might imagine I can be a real pain in the ass fitting boots.   Both these guys have been awesome in every respect.

I've had them fit all three types of boots.  To date,  I have been very pleased on each fit.  Thrilled I found them again today.  Better yet they are even closer for me now.

"Ya gotta stay dry to stay warm" Part 2 and the Patagonia Knifeblade Series

                       
I think it fitting to start this essay with a picture of  Doug Tompkins climbing in Scotland from an old Chouinard poster.

"Ya gotta stay dry to stay warm" part 1

A -28C / -18F day, even well equipped, is verging on unpleasant out of the sun and in the wind.

I have had a problem with cold feet literally as long as I can remember.  Not the first episode I remember but one of the most vivid was having cold, painful feet was out fishing with my father late fall.  No easy way to build a fire in a boat.  That was in the 3rd grade.

Chamonix Alpine Information Service.

by Dave Searle

 

I quite often find myself answering questions about climbing and skiing in the mountains of Chamonix. I love helping people out with information or advice so I’ve decided to offer my knowledge and experience in the form of informal consultations. The idea is to meet up somewhere in Chamonix for a drink and a chat or talk over the phone to help with any questions you might have. 



Email Dave here.


Editor's note:  Besides being a long time and frequent contributor to CT,  Dave is a truly gifted, writer, climber and skier.  Anyone headed for Chamonix and needing some hard won advice on either (in English no less) he's your man!

Two basic axes..two cultures

A tale of two ice axes

by Bruno Schull

This is a tale of two ice axes.  Or two cultures, or two climbing styles, or two ways of dealing with danger in the mountains.  Can we draw cultural conclusions from ice axes?  Many aspects of climbing vary in generally recognizable ways from place to place, for example, rating systems, environmental ethics, techniques and so on.  Why not ice axes? 

Lama in Alaska

Ya, about that mind control thing...

This is a  "step" beyond the typical hair ball solo....

Grivel Machine 3.0, a first look

Grivel was kind enough to loan me a Machine 3.0 recently. Fun to speculate on this one.

I'll let these two pictures from today tease you just as they have me.  Give me a few days yet and I'll have something written up about them.  To date I only bothered to write up a very few loaners.  This will be the first tool in that category.   

I've not been a big fan of any of the Grivel's ice tools.  And admittedly I may have been missing more than I was willing to admit.   A number of knowledgeable friends are BIG Grivel fans.   I was curious enough about this particular tool that I was willing to buy a pair from a photo  over 6 months ago now.  Sad, because at the moment you can't buy a single tool, let alone a a pair, yet.

Disappointing, as this one will go back to Courmayeur this week.

Shown are the resulting hand/grip angles pulling from vertical to a horizontal terrain so commonly the crux on steep ice.  Left to right, original Quark, original Nomic and the new Grivel, Machine 3.0

Skintrack.com and what we didn't see at OR?

Besides the newest Scarpa boots that have yet to be unveiled 

There is a lot of good things to be seen @ skintrack.com

This interview is just a start:

http://www.skintrack.com/people/trevor-hunt-interview-steep-skier/

Looking for ice axe parts and pieces?

Unlikely I suspect but you never know what might turn up if you ask.

2014 Winter OR?

 

The Outdoor Retailer shows are an obligatory destination twice a year to preview the the products that will be available to the public in the next business cycle.  So what you see in Salt Lake's Salt Palace Convention Center the last week of January every winter actually won't be available physically (to most) for 6 or 9 months yet.   Usually for the esoteric items we want (rando skiers and alpine climbers) next fall at best for delivery but usually later yet if the item is actually worth owning.

Dynafit Nanga Parbat ski review.....

Wow, the winter here is actually shocking to me.  We are getting a temperature inversion up high and a damp cold fog (but not freezing)  down below.  We are lucky to have had a good dump of snow a bit ago to keep us skiing but it is getting bleak again.  Frightening how quickly the little snow we do have will go once the temps warm and an early Spring arrives for good.  Snow level here is more typical of  mid May than mid January.

Super Mario and the Dynafit TLT6

TLT6 LIMITED EDITION – A BOOT TO HONOR “SUPER MARIO”

“I’ve always dreamed of a boot that is the perfect combination of weight and comfort.” After years of product development, DYNAFIT boot developer Mario Sartor (known as “Super Mario” to insiders) did it: The TLT6 counts as a true all-rounder. Among ski tourers, expedition mountaineers and ski alpinists around the world, it is recognized as a stable yet agile boot. In 2014, Super Mario, based in Italy’s Montebelluna, will be honored with a TLT6 Limited Edition model that will only have a run of 1,500 numbered pairs.

Training for the New Alpinism

"Training for the New Alpinism, by Steve House and Scott Johnston, translates theory into application to allow you to coach yourself to any mountaineering goal. The authors present training plans for weekend warriors as well as the world's best mountaineers. Filled with photos, graphs, illustrations, and anecdotes. www.patagonia.com/books"

Black Death...

and more WI7 for Robert Jasper....and some Rockies quality stone.  Great vid of hard mixed.




http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=irvPkcSCV_s#t=20

Praxis ski discount?

I am a big fan of what Keith at Praxis is doing with skis.  Both the products (the Praxis in our house are awesome!)  and how he markets..."Internet sales only!"

Tech Bindings? AKA "Dynafit bindings" Part Two:

The Conehead here is smiling, because -0- ramp delta in the bindings and a -.5mm boot pin delta makes the lwt skis really fun and more importantly for me, comfortable to ski in and ski on!

Some background?   I wrote this in July of 2011:

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/07/tech-bindings-aka-dynafit-bindings.html

In the past couple of years I have learned a few things about tech bindings I thought worth passing on.  I find it interesting is that out side the limited back country skiing market,  understanding the tech bindings from both the positive and the negative has so often obviously been missed or simply misunderstood.

Light tools, right tools....

My suggestion is don't get distracted by the Patagonia ad but listen to what House and Kennedy are saying here.  It is good stuff.  Basic Cold Thistle stuff.  Basic Bonatti stuff.  Basic Oscar Eckenstein stuff.

More alpine ice..

 

 

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=05PjRcrzTc8

Super Couloir, Mont Blanc du Tacul

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gAglW5KqPS4

As the snow conditions...

and weather in general continue to SUCK, this is fun :-)

Working">http://vimeo.com/83163983">Working For The Weekend 1 - Tuckerman Ravine
from Ski">http://vimeo.com/skitheeast">Ski The East on Vimeo.https://vimeo.com">Vimeo.>

Dynafit Cho Oyu ski mini review again

This pretty much sums up my feelings on the Cho Oyu today!

Dynafit never fails to impress me with their skis.
And I don't always use them where and for what they were specifically designed for,

Pitons in the alpine?

Is there a future for pegs in British climbing?

Posted by Dan Middleton, BMC Technical Officer on 18/12/2008

"Should we continue to use pegs as semi-permanent anchors, or is it time to retire them from active service? "


If you climb in the alpine  pins are still a part of life and likely will continue to be for a long time.  Some thoughts  on pins in the link below worth considering courtesy of the BMC Technical Office:

https://www.thebmc.co.uk/is-there-a-future-for-pegs-in-british-climbing