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The cold world of alpine climbing.

The cold world of alpine climbing.

Sunday, December 25, 2011

Mountain boots? I just don't get it?

If you look at any given climbing forum there is almost always a thread on going about what boot is suitable for what ever mtn you might imagine. 

The typical forum poster wants to be able to use the same boot on Whitney in summer and Everest in winter...or pretty close comparison anyway.

Hood, Rainier, Aconcagua and Denali are all lumped into one, all inclusive group.

Climbing has always been an elitiest and expensive sport.

19,000' on Aconcagua is not the same for cold as 19,000' on Denali given the same season.

Big difference in that last 3000' from the top of Hood to the top of Rainier.   The gear for a typical Rainier climb is simply just not good enough for an Aconcagua trip.   People need to recognise the facts.

You can pay now or eventually pay later once your luck runs out.
These are the toes of a friend after 24hrs out climbing in late Nov. @ 7000' in the Cascades.


There is no climbing boot made that costs anywhere near the bill here in money and time off.

7 comments:

Anonymous said...

Did your friend have his big toes amputated as a result of his unplanned 24 hour foray in the mountains?

Dane said...

Nope, even as nasty as this looks. He was out of climbing for almost 9 months but didn't loose a thing past the skin that is obviously discolored and dead. You can bet he has cold sensitive feet now though. Not something I would suggest for fun. They were only out for an unplanned 12hrs of that 24 ;) It doesn't take long for things to get really out of control.

Jon Rhoderick said...

Merry Christmas Dane
Thanks for another year of informative critical insight into alpine climbing, here's to many more years of good health!
Jon

Dane said...

Thanks Jon, Merry Christmas as well!

Grant said...

Finished Colorado 14er Disasters: Victims of the Game by Mark Scott-Nash about a week ago. It is very good and has changed my ideas about things. Now I'm ditching fast and light for prudent. Your post is simply another reminder. Very glad to be able to learn from others experience.

southamericapcv said...

Dane, I see your handiwork all over the internet for reviews and forums. Thank you for your input. I'm heading up Aconcagua in Dec. and this has made me think twice about where Id like to save money on the trip. Not the boots, for sure not the boots.

Dane said...

Smart man;)