The North Face of the Eiger - 1938 Route & Free Topo
by Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor Apr/2011
And a slightly different Steck video:
"The crux pitches are usually short-lived, but are very steep and are often poorly protected and mainly on almost bare rock. Usually climbed with ice axes and crampons due to verglas and very low temperatures, an estimation of the difficulty of the hardest sections would be Scottish VI,6 or M5. On many of these crux sections the sloping nature of the limestone is very unhelpful for crampon-shod feet, and the mixed climbing bears little resemblance to the more commonly climbed routes on the superb granite of the popular Mont Blanc range."
Tête du Pré des Saix
6 days ago