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The cold world of alpine climbing.

The cold world of alpine climbing.

Sunday, May 2, 2010

Real weight?




Some times even I wonder just how important tracking you gear weights really is.

If you wonder as well take a quick look at what I used on Polar Circus in '08 and what I used on the same climb in similar conditions in '09, '10  and  '11.

pack-CCW in ballistics nylon 2#6oz
boots-Nepal Evo 2#10.5oz
screws-12 -12cm Helix 60.7oz
belay parka-Mtn Hardware Compressor Hoody 19.8oz
soft shell-Arcteryx Gamma MX Hoody XL 24oz
pants-Arcteryx soft shell Bib large 30.3oz
helmet-Grivel Salamander 13.7oz
crampons-Grivel G12 full bot 35.6oz

total weight in 2008 16.5#

pack-CCW Ozone, custom, 20" back, Spectra 1#9oz no lid
boots-Trango Evo Extreme GTX 2#3oz
screws-8 -12cm Helix 40.8oz
no belay parka
hard/soft shell-EB Frontpoint XL 18.5oz
pants-Gamma Lt large 12oz
helmet-Petzl Meteor III 7.9oz
Dartwin 1/2 bot 30.5oz

Total weight in 2009 10.6#

How does that relate to effort in the real world? In '08 we climbed the route as fast as I ever have with a partner. In '09, with more comfort and significantly less effort than I have ever used on the climb and not actually trying to climb any faster than normal we almost cut that time in half! And in very similar conditions.


Even better I didn't add the weight savings of my gloves, harness, 'biners or inner layers all of which added up quickly as well for an additional significant weight savings. So my take is; it really is worth paying attention to what you buy and carry.


It is always a learning experience. The system I last used in warm conditions?

pack-REI Flash 18L 9.2oz -
boots-Scarpa Phantom Ultra 2#3.5oz +
screws-8-13cm BD Express 38.4oz -
Arcteryx Squawmish XL 5.6oz -
pants-Gamma Lt large 12oz =
helmet-Petzl Meteor III 7.9oz =
Stainess Sabertooth stripped/Neve heel 25.4oz -

Total weight 8.2#

And what I used in -30C temps early last winter?

CCW packs 1# 9oz

Spantiks 3#.05oz / 1362g

screws-12 -12cm Helix 60.7oz

Atom Lt Hoody 14.4oz / 429g

NWAlpine Salopettes 21.6oz / 612g

helmet-Petzl Meteor III 7.9oz =

Vertical front point crampons 39.4oz / 1116g

EB down pull over 15.4 oz / 455g


14.5#






Close ups of the upper tiers on Polar Circus.

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