tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post6652924431420718884..comments2024-03-16T10:11:19.302-07:00Comments on Cold Thistle: More on mid weight down jackets comparisons and a surpriseDanehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08300760603627210620noreply@blogger.comBlogger40125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-79824933172822686252016-10-30T10:01:34.325-07:002016-10-30T10:01:34.325-07:00Dane,
Have you had a chance to play with any of th...Dane,<br />Have you had a chance to play with any of the new "hydrophobic" down jackets by Rab and others? I would be very curious about your opinion on those. I really like down, but I can sweat like crazy and have soaked out my older neutrino endurance in subzero(Fahrenheit)weather. Not an experience I am anxious to repeat!<br />I really enjoy the blog and have found some excellent winter climbing garments thanks to your efforts.Timhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16339382626850849073noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-15457214700781728492015-12-10T14:16:20.068-08:002015-12-10T14:16:20.068-08:00Sounds like the Nilas and Positron are now very si...Sounds like the Nilas and Positron are now very similar in construction. I haven't kept up with all the new versions, sorry.<br /><br />While I have a few others in the closet including a new Nilas, I'm using a Mirage myself currently and have for the last 2 seasons. Danehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08300760603627210620noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-5505688340798737282015-12-09T18:39:37.819-08:002015-12-09T18:39:37.819-08:00Now that Rab replaced Neutrino Plus with Positron ...Now that Rab replaced Neutrino Plus with Positron which has a stitch-through construction on sides and arms, how does Positron compares to Neutrino Plus and MH Nilas?Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-86244506145520966272015-04-07T08:29:09.032-07:002015-04-07T08:29:09.032-07:00Hi Antony. I too think the Peak XV will be the wa...Hi Antony. I too think the Peak XV will be the warmest. My wife ended up with the model down from the Peak XV, still a serious winter coat, but looks like it is no longer available. Best buy is the XV for sure. I use a Montbell Mirage myself. Good luck!Danehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08300760603627210620noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-45212060049929995162015-04-06T13:54:44.782-07:002015-04-06T13:54:44.782-07:00Dane,
My wife runs very cold and I am picking up...Dane, <br /><br />My wife runs very cold and I am picking up a parka for her, the options are Montbell Frost Smoke(175g fill weight fill, baffled), $215. Peak XV, $175, and Neutrino Endurance, $205. Of the bunch based on my research the XV is going to be the warmest, the weight winner is the frost smoke, plus it's baffled, and the endurance although sewn through and slightly heavier has more down than the frost smoke. I have a few montbell jackets and I absolutely love them. of the bunch, if forced to buy one belay parka to last for as long as possible/provide most warmpth for weight, what do you think? The XV is warm but relatively heavy, and I am mainly wondering what your thoughts are on 175g fill baffled vs 200-225 sewn on the frost smoke vs endurance. Fit would also determine it but I dont have access to these, I know comparatively the XV will be larger than the other two because of US sizing vs euro and japanese plus my experience with the brands. My wife is tiny so really it seems, unless you think the XV is that amazing (plus crazy warranty), that the choice is between the frost smoke and endurance. I value your opinion and time and I appreciate your thoughts! I'd get her the neutino plus but i can't find her size. Lastly, at the $200 price point anything else off my radar?Anthonyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00119272742212089291noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-36492541755832197222015-01-18T19:41:18.172-08:002015-01-18T19:41:18.172-08:00Three pretty drastically different climates. You ...Three pretty drastically different climates. You could get buy with one for Acon. and Denali. But Denail is a LOT colder generally if you are making Jan/ May comparisons. Kili...? No need for something that warm. Danehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08300760603627210620noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-35613348680116986912015-01-18T19:27:11.946-08:002015-01-18T19:27:11.946-08:00Debating between Neutrino Endurance and Neutrino P...Debating between Neutrino Endurance and Neutrino Plus - will be using it this summer on Kilimanjaro, and hopefully later on Aconcaqua and Denali - better to get different jackets for the different mountains, or do you think one of these Rab jackets could work for all 3?Kolinnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-86176746125180868682014-05-05T03:28:56.463-07:002014-05-05T03:28:56.463-07:00Compare? Really? Data on both is listed above.Compare? Really? Data on both is listed above.Danehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08300760603627210620noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-84547288864663500102014-05-04T11:31:19.991-07:002014-05-04T11:31:19.991-07:00How does the rab neutrino plus compare to the mont...How does the rab neutrino plus compare to the month bell permafrost?<br />Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-27169620887810832292014-04-19T08:40:58.509-07:002014-04-19T08:40:58.509-07:00Are you sure that weight for the Infinity is corre...Are you sure that weight for the Infinity is correct? Rab advertises it as 500g not 400g.<br /><br />Also I notice Crux are now selling in the US. I think their gear is right up your alley, Dane. (www.crux.us.com)Jeremynoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-20767951814334116242014-02-27T13:43:33.250-08:002014-02-27T13:43:33.250-08:00Mount Bell..try a search for the MirageMount Bell..try a search for the MirageDanehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08300760603627210620noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-44558505546509704232014-02-27T10:33:16.682-08:002014-02-27T10:33:16.682-08:00Who makes the lightest weight baffled down jacket?...Who makes the lightest weight baffled down jacket?Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-87651979629225121142013-11-02T12:09:15.639-07:002013-11-02T12:09:15.639-07:00New Lyngen with 250g of down looks to be a very go...New Lyngen with 250g of down looks to be a very good climbing jacket.<br /><br /><br />Would seem the lwt version is intended to be a ski touring jacket.Danehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08300760603627210620noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-74832715073575036212013-11-02T07:12:50.128-07:002013-11-02T07:12:50.128-07:00Which jacket would you recommend for general alp...Which jacket would you recommend for general alpine use, (alpine and ice climbing, ski touring..). New Norrøna Lyngen Down (250 grams of down) or New Norrona Lyngen Lightweight Down750 (185 grams of down and no chest pocket)? Because I got a good deal for both and The price difference among them is negligible.<br />Thank you!!NaumHNhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13750144455807449147noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-74783234989381417662013-10-21T22:10:03.822-07:002013-10-21T22:10:03.822-07:00What you say about the amount of down used is true...What you say about the amount of down used is true. But there are many factors that need to be looked at, considered. Amount of down, quality of down and how much over fill is used. I don't make this stuff up and it is easy enough to see the differences when you have the jackets in hand, side by side. Few jackets I know of are as "plump" and as warm for the weigh as a Nuetrino Plus. Few yet that will retain that loft in wet conditions as the N-Plus will. Another nice jacket I really like is the Mount Bell Mirage. But it would be an even better jacket if it had 3 or 4 more oz of down. It is under filled iMO. <br /><br />I know by simply making direct comparisons that the Nuetrino Plus is one of the very best down jackets available...when I made the comparisons. I doubt much has changed with that jacket in a year and a half. I know some of the "best" jackets I tested back then are not nearly as good IMO now. Nuetrino has added 800-fill hydrophobic and Pertex Endurance fabric. If the new down holds up if is still a contender. I have a new Patagonia jacket here now and it is nice..if the new down holds up under use. But btter than a Nuetrino Plus? Not IMO.Danehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08300760603627210620noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-58997135422812405912013-10-21T21:38:58.787-07:002013-10-21T21:38:58.787-07:00I think it's worth pointing out that loft is a...I think it's worth pointing out that loft is at best only a rough indicator of a jacket's warmth. Several studies have shown that down can be compressed up to 2.5 times its nominal density (i.e. minimum density, i.e. max loft per unit mass) before you get a decrease in warmth. So for example a jacket with 100g of down and 1" of loft will be significantly less warm than a jacket with 200g of down and 1" of loft (with loft being limited by the baffling). If you assume all manufacturers overfill to the same level then loft is a reasonable way to compare jackets, but this is not always the case nor is that information easy to get. A better indicator of warmth is a jacket's fill weight.<br /><br />This is why I'm not convinced by the Neutrino Plus. 275g of down seems low compared to some other jackets of similar spec.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-64214636215105446442013-01-29T23:02:55.141-08:002013-01-29T23:02:55.141-08:00I like this stuff!
Thanks for sharing.I like this stuff!<br />Thanks for sharing.Comfort color cool jacketshttp://www.gotapparel.com/st-comfort-color-cool-jackets.aspxnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-25716368709322328432013-01-13T17:36:40.493-08:002013-01-13T17:36:40.493-08:00How about the jacket that fits you?
The best? If ...How about the jacket that fits you?<br />The best? If you are asking likely we would have different opinions on what is the "best".<br /><br />If it helps I don't bother reviewing jackets I don't like. <br /><br />And I could likely live with anything listed here. The RAB Neutrino Plus is THE standout of the bunch IMO, everything considered. jacket Danehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08300760603627210620noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-59637336190832774012013-01-13T16:11:28.745-08:002013-01-13T16:11:28.745-08:00Sorry I really want to know what is the absolute b...Sorry I really want to know what is the absolute best mid-weight jacket for mountaineering. There are pros and cons to every jacket but I want to know what is the best one for technical mountaineering!<br />Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-9002903468656073502013-01-07T18:22:05.769-08:002013-01-07T18:22:05.769-08:00I really liek the RAB stuff..consistant performers...I really liek the RAB stuff..consistant performers but haven't seen either new jackets sorry.Danehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08300760603627210620noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-75450073824902756952013-01-07T12:24:52.528-08:002013-01-07T12:24:52.528-08:00RAB's just come out with the Jannu jacket..loo...RAB's just come out with the Jannu jacket..looks impressive...cant decide which one to get -the Jaanu or the Narrona Trollveggan. Suggestions <br />pls? <br /><br />cheersKangrihttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08702970134555661530noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-19911214179837222082012-12-31T14:29:18.699-08:002012-12-31T14:29:18.699-08:00Ok i didnt know that the trollveggen had recently ...Ok i didnt know that the trollveggen had recently been redesigned. I have the down/primaloft design and i think its a nice warm jacket and was surprised to read that someone would say that its useles as an insulating jacket. But if you tested the old design then i understand. I know that its not the lightest jacket around, but i love that its verry warm and not so bulky at the same time. <br /><br />I also have a Mountain Equipment Gasherbrum jacket. I highly recomend it! ME makes top quallity stuff! 5" loft, 380g down (750 eu fp) box wall throughout and it only weights 785g in size L. you can get one for about 250 euro.Rhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17569767520695798735noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-39014321394443112472012-12-31T11:37:02.960-08:002012-12-31T11:37:02.960-08:00Robin, I suspect there is some confusion. First t...Robin, I suspect there is some confusion. First that is the last version of the Narrona Trollveggan 1063g/ 37.5 @ 3" and not the new Primaloft hybrid you are talking about. And yes it is the loft that makes these jackets warm and their fill weight along with the quality of the down. <br /><br />For climbing we look at warmth verses weight. Which is exactly why the Narrona Trollveggan was redesigned. It wasn't warm enough for the weight.<br /><br />Rab Neutrino Plus @ 94g / 28 and 5" of loft will be hard to better. Even the MH Nilas is hard pressed to do so for warmth. The past Lyngen was a very good jacket. The Trollveggan was not. I haven't been bothered to look at the newest Trollveggan. I suspect they simply bettered the last Lyngen pattern. Easy enough to do. The hybrid Primaloft and down combo was brilliant first time around.Danehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08300760603627210620noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-85988434408765665932012-12-31T05:01:10.663-08:002012-12-31T05:01:10.663-08:00Loft alone wont tell you how warm a jacket is. The...Loft alone wont tell you how warm a jacket is. The amount of insulation and the quallity of the insulation is a better indicator on how warm a jacket is. The Neutrino Plus jacket has 275 g of 800fp down and 5" loft. The Trollveggen has 240g (size L) 750+ down and 55g primaloft in the shoulders and in some parts of the arms. So the fill weight of these jackets is about the same, but the neutrino plus has about 70% more loft. Does that make the neutrino 70% warmer than the trollveggen? No it doesnt! the differens in warmth is maybe 5-10% in favour of the neutrino. but its also 70% bulkier than the trollveggen. I have used my trollveggen jacket in around -20c with just a t-shirt underneth. It was a slow 1hr walk and i stayed warm.Rhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17569767520695798735noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-14450575410094399242012-12-09T02:01:38.222-08:002012-12-09T02:01:38.222-08:00Looking farther into the Narrona line. The newest...Looking farther into the Narrona line. The newest Norrøna Trollveggen now has Prima Loft 1 in it. I am hoping it is as light and as technical as the last Lyngen was...and if the lyngen is really a 1# down jacket I'l lbe impressed.Danehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08300760603627210620noreply@blogger.com