tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post4478916219262564337..comments2024-03-16T10:11:19.302-07:00Comments on Cold Thistle: Preview of the Fall 2011 Black Diamond "Stinger Crampon"Danehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08300760603627210620noreply@blogger.comBlogger20125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-73205932411047110232017-07-07T11:36:24.704-07:002017-07-07T11:36:24.704-07:00Dane, some time ago I wrote to you about drilling ...Dane, some time ago I wrote to you about drilling holes in the handles of a pair original Ergos (!) so that they could accommodate a tether. I believe that you responded by saying that you had some experience with taking these handles apart and that you didn't see a problem with drilling a hole in them. Much to my surprise, (after drilling a 1/8" pilot hole which gave no indication that there would be a problem), I found that the handle was not cored with a single piece of aluminum which I had imagined would have extended down the full length of the tool thus adding to its torsional (?) strength. Instead what I found was an interlocking matrix of plastic and aluminum components which comprise the handle. This was after drilling a single 1/2" hole. One option now is to give up on the tethering project, fill the hole with an epoxy and save my pennies for a modern tool or to tie off this hole and to trust the "matrix" that I have apparently damaged. Even though this was an early radical tool, I am surprised that Petzl would seemingly compromised the handle strength by not coring it continuously via the shaft of the tool. Your thoughts would be appreciated, even though this is regarding an antique item! Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16666286711126331755noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-32181840775646093452014-04-25T12:55:43.054-07:002014-04-25T12:55:43.054-07:00Do the stingers and cyborgs have the same toe welt...Do the stingers and cyborgs have the same toe welt?<br />Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-25464630858987684812011-12-03T21:38:23.515-08:002011-12-03T21:38:23.515-08:00Dane thanks for your hard work. My friends and I ...Dane thanks for your hard work. My friends and I enjoy your blog very much.<br /><br />Question<br />My Cyborg pros(mono configuration) fit my Lowa Mountain Expert boots very sloppy in front. I will often look down and find my boot twisting towards one side or the other. This is probably due to the very wide front bail. Is there a better bail that I could purchase on the market? Is there a easy way to modify the front bail? Or is my best solution to return them and go with the new Stinger? <br /><br />Thanks again<br />WesAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-45766288825476486632011-11-15T10:01:04.809-08:002011-11-15T10:01:04.809-08:00Basically they are a copy of the Dart and not enou...Basically they are a copy of the Dart and not enough down points for moderate terrain imo.Danehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08300760603627210620noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-60862702825133679532011-11-15T06:13:38.447-08:002011-11-15T06:13:38.447-08:00Why are these not so well suited to moderate ice?Why are these not so well suited to moderate ice?Nicolainoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-87344094733198981002011-08-13T00:29:26.067-07:002011-08-13T00:29:26.067-07:00Thanks for the comments Ian. I do have a full met...Thanks for the comments Ian. I do have a full metal shop at hand. But as the reliability of some of the manufactures kit has already shown, a good crampon is tough to manufacture, even as a one off.<br /><br />Given the choice I would have taken the Sabertooth profile to a replaceable and forged mono/dual. And gone back to chrome moly. I still think the stainless is ill advised after using them in various forms for two seasons.<br /><br />What I wanted sounds a lot like a new Petzl Lynx doesn't it? We'll have to wait and see how true that is. But imo BD dropped the ball on this one.Danehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08300760603627210620noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-43457038649295480802011-08-12T23:30:18.654-07:002011-08-12T23:30:18.654-07:00A very detailed review, very helpful with real wor...A very detailed review, very helpful with real world opinions, not influenced by sponsorship, advertising etc. Your blog is a breath of fresh air.<br /><br />Wrt centre points for standing on cauliflowers etc, all is not lost if your crampons are failing here, just add a nut and bolt or two through the connecting bar. Just like the original heel spur bodges.<br /><br />We should not have to bodge but bodges are how the technology moves on.<br /><br />Dane, do you have access to a workshop? How about knocking up a pair of prototype "perfect pons"?Ian Armstrongnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-24789881130793417972011-02-08T00:15:00.592-08:002011-02-08T00:15:00.592-08:00Dane,
Fantastic site! Thanks for all your hard wo...Dane,<br /> Fantastic site! Thanks for all your hard work.<br /> You are the unspoken voice of every climber.<br /> "Damn this (whatever) why can't we make this better?"<br /> Your blog will make things better.<br /> Ok so here is my little idea. You mention that modern crampons often to not have anything right under the mid foot. I agree, I miss my rambos, though not the weight and that climbing on stilts feeling.<br /> Any way as of late I have been short screws and heads right in the middle of the extension bar. Seems to work. Though I wonder if they are placing dangerous stress on the crampon system. Any thoughts on this?ericwrighthttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12256887297860995044noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-35277900634405974072011-02-05T12:21:20.076-08:002011-02-05T12:21:20.076-08:00No change for production bots....they are just get...No change for production bots....they are just getting a new mold ready for the Stinger and it isn't polished yet...hence the color and texture change on the front piece. Good eye :) Rear is production already.Danehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08300760603627210620noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-3308168232002409532011-02-05T12:16:08.054-08:002011-02-05T12:16:08.054-08:00Ok. Also I may be out to lunch here but is that a ...Ok. Also I may be out to lunch here but is that a new material on the antibotts? They look a different color/texture than the ones out now. Any idea if BD is changing their bott design across the range?Ralph P.noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-80632655319653878312011-02-04T13:58:33.550-08:002011-02-04T13:58:33.550-08:00Neve heels? I have not climbed in that set up but...Neve heels? I have not climbed in that set up but easy enough to do.Danehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08300760603627210620noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-38188167335165483042011-02-04T13:55:36.389-08:002011-02-04T13:55:36.389-08:00Have you tried them with the Neve heel?Have you tried them with the Neve heel?Ralph P.noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-68582594103431291092011-02-02T13:22:38.382-08:002011-02-02T13:22:38.382-08:00Dane,
I currently climb with both the Petzl Dart ...Dane,<br /><br />I currently climb with both the Petzl Dart and Dartwin. My choice for steep ice has been the Dartwin for the last three seasons. Similar to your observations, I find the Dartwins to peform best on steep ice (e.g. the steep ice at Lake Willoughby where I recently climbed). They are definitely not for lower angle ice, general mountaineering or too much walking. Overall, I like them over the G14s.<br /><br />Thanks for the preview on the new BD crampons. (Just what I need; to starting thinking about buying new crampons!)<br /><br />Also thanks for your blog. I really enjoy reading your comments on gear. (Are all ice climbers gear junkies?)<br /><br />LarryAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-11621619131826985862011-02-01T10:38:15.171-08:002011-02-01T10:38:15.171-08:00DMM? Magazine comments here:
http://www.climbin...DMM? Magazine comments here:<br /><br />http://www.climbing.com/print/equipment/dmmterminator/#Danehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08300760603627210620noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-31923741001478273052011-02-01T10:28:00.899-08:002011-02-01T10:28:00.899-08:00I Dane, i just bought a a used pair of DMM Termina...I Dane, i just bought a a used pair of DMM Terminator<br />but you did not mention it when you made somes comparaisons for your review, did it worth something ?<br /><br />Thanks JPAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-25008377722261760352011-01-31T16:31:28.250-08:002011-01-31T16:31:28.250-08:00Looking the details of the secondary points betwee...Looking the details of the secondary points between the short serrated (M10, Sabertooth, Dart, Dartwin and these Stingers) versus longer larger (the G12, G14 and Cyborgs) there seems to be a fundamental design difference. I don't know if this would warrant a full post from you, but I would be very curious what conditions you know or think they were designed for. As a design engineer myself, these little things are what define a product. <br /><br />Thanks for keeping the blog going and interesting, the detailed look at these kinds of things are fantastic.Eric Dacushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14835979583329955534noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-81911816673537131462011-01-31T10:36:35.028-08:002011-01-31T10:36:35.028-08:00I have a lot of brand loyalty to Grivel, at least ...I have a lot of brand loyalty to Grivel, at least their crampons, and I'm pissed that BD sold out. <br /><br />Still, a G20-esque crampon with a replaceable front point? Finally.Jaconnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-55262446719160448872011-01-31T09:52:06.614-08:002011-01-31T09:52:06.614-08:00Anton, I climb on some Grivel gear..Rambo IV and G...Anton, I climb on some Grivel gear..Rambo IV and G12s for example. I only have so much coin and time. The stuff I like and use a lot gets reviewed, not the few things I might get for free.<br /><br />Unless of course I like them and use them a lot :)<br /><br />Grivel is good at copying as is BD. G20 and G22 are the classic examples. Petzl was the real game changer here on crampons and tools.<br />Shouldn't be any surprise I like the Petzl gear.<br /><br />Mid teeth...I haven't used the G22 but might get teh chance soon. We'll see how well they work. I was impressed how well the BD mid teeth version works. No question anything there works better than nothing at all! <br /><br />As I said I have no brand loyality. If I have the access and the time I'll generally climb in it.Danehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08300760603627210620noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-3514143044701983982011-01-31T09:18:53.965-08:002011-01-31T09:18:53.965-08:00Good review / preview.
Seems that BD is again doi...Good review / preview.<br /><br />Seems that BD is again doing well by copying Grivel and Petzl inginuity. In this case they have made one logical change (changeable frontpoint), but are still 100g more than the G20s.<br /><br />I have to disagree that the itsy bitsy "teeth" on the bottom/middle of the foot are somehow better than the G20's... there is barely anything there to grip! However, on an icy approach/descent, the BDs will likely be more stable, but as you noted - the primary concern is going up. <br /><br />I look forward to seeing how well the front bails work with my boots. I've primarily used BD gear over the years, but lately have been appreciating the qualities of Grivel gear. (e.g. G20s, Rambo 4s, Quantum Techs)<br /><br />It would be great to see more reviews of Grivel gear (even if they don't send it to you free). I think you'll be pleasantly surprised in many cases.<br /><br />Cheers,<br />AntonAntonnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-50357591979804159932011-01-31T01:23:46.412-08:002011-01-31T01:23:46.412-08:00Gotta say if they're as good as described this...Gotta say if they're as good as described this is my next pair...<br /><br />On Rambo 4's now but finding the anitbot a pain in the ass. Wtf came up with a rigid anitbot design?? Awesome crampons otherwise!<br /><br />These look like what I've been looking for: low profile, good sole coverage, secondary and tertiary points for hooking, monos for hard ice, and most importantly fit my damn boots!!<br /><br />Thanks for the preview Dane.Rafalhttp://rafalandronowski.wordpress.com/noreply@blogger.com