tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post313202192101679558..comments2024-03-16T10:11:19.302-07:00Comments on Cold Thistle: The Apprentice... aka ice skills againDanehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08300760603627210620noreply@blogger.comBlogger19125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-836485974620979622012-03-07T08:06:54.638-08:002012-03-07T08:06:54.638-08:00I just got back from Canmore on Monday and I have ...I just got back from Canmore on Monday and I have to say, I flailed my ass off. Avi danger was very high when I was there so we did mostly ice crag instead of the iconic stuff which was probably best. I'm planning a trip next year but I am going to head to Ouray first.Ianhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10023513087034699039noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-86639021093683478142012-03-05T17:10:30.445-08:002012-03-05T17:10:30.445-08:00First off, thank you for the time you put into thi...First off, thank you for the time you put into this blog. I find the information is always helpful. At the very least, your reviews help me to think more critically what I expect out of gear and what best suits my needs.<br /><br />Second, I seem to recall you were planning to do another ice ax review in February or so. Is that still in the works, or was it not able to come to fruition?Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-59558250466479186422012-03-01T22:19:51.484-08:002012-03-01T22:19:51.484-08:00Thanks Purple! The Beal Ice Twins?
My third set....Thanks Purple! The Beal Ice Twins?<br /><br />My third set. I love them for any type of ice and/or long walks.Danehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08300760603627210620noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-4991173394646563442012-03-01T22:14:58.283-08:002012-03-01T22:14:58.283-08:00Been lurking for quite some time. Joined a week or...Been lurking for quite some time. Joined a week or two ago?<br /><br />How do you like the Beal 7.7's in the pics of you climbing this last week?PurpleJesus1994https://www.blogger.com/profile/07673195378805844243noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-35574207393097360972012-03-01T07:24:47.090-08:002012-03-01T07:24:47.090-08:00Sieto van der Heide?
Of course. Thanks for askin...Sieto van der Heide?<br /><br />Of course. Thanks for asking.Danehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08300760603627210620noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-4709074746796778122012-03-01T06:22:39.880-08:002012-03-01T06:22:39.880-08:00I am by no means up to the level that probably a l...I am by no means up to the level that probably a lot of people are that read your blog, so take it for what is worth, but I totally agree with your comments on the importance of down climbing. Ironically, my one experience with extended downclimbing (Chair Peak) probably taught me more about ice technique and increased my confidence than any number of laps top roped that I have done.Davidhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07162516360562655580noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-37162669578916145322012-03-01T01:05:49.463-08:002012-03-01T01:05:49.463-08:00Hi Dane,
great post, thanks. I've just started...Hi Dane,<br />great post, thanks. I've just started ice climbing and am very much in a learning stage. Your post helps in reminding what is important.<br />Would ik be ok if I re-post it (with credits, off course) on my blog?Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11304177493235331059noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-88033221390419155602012-02-29T18:22:04.650-08:002012-02-29T18:22:04.650-08:00Looking for a copywriting job per chance?Looking for a copywriting job per chance?Danehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08300760603627210620noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-45305699239490820052012-02-29T18:17:47.768-08:002012-02-29T18:17:47.768-08:00ASSESS not ACCESSASSESS not ACCESSAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-56473232899037238062012-02-29T11:55:00.855-08:002012-02-29T11:55:00.855-08:00My two cents:
I totally agree that fitness is vita...My two cents:<br />I totally agree that fitness is vital in the mountains. However, last year I could do 15-20 pull ups on any given day. This year, 10; 15 on a really good day. Yet, this year I am COMFORTABLY leading ice that is a grade harder than I was TRing last year. This year I have been TRing a lot to work strictly on technique and really learn to understand the intricacies of ice. My technique is far better this year than last and it has improved my ice climbing immensely. So, I agree, technique trumps fitness.Gear:30https://www.blogger.com/profile/18125730756250323507noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-22423693895236370332012-02-29T10:20:55.008-08:002012-02-29T10:20:55.008-08:00Agree with Dane on the pull-ups, fitness is defini...Agree with Dane on the pull-ups, fitness is definitely not as important as technique and skill. Once you have those two, fitness will help you get further, but fitness without technique will probably get you killed.<br /><br />Feet and body position are a lot more important than strength. Find a piece of hard ice and TR it endlessly. Climb with one tool, one crampon, no crampons, climb when injured, climb with extra weight, climb fast, climb slow. One day of doing random shit like that will teach you much, much more than miles of within-your-limits multi-pitch.<br /><br />I would even venture a suggestion that, if you want to become good and comfortable on ice, and are within driving distance of Banff / Canmore, a weekend of TR on Tokkum Pole (30-35m of WI5/6 that's 10 minutes from the road, you should be able to run 6 laps on it in a day) will teach you more than a whole week of climbing the classics (WW, Cascade, Professors, etc.)<br /><br />As far as the apprenticeship, I whole-heartedly agree - there's nothing quite like learning from those with more experience. I started ice climbing with someone with 10 years of experience and a solid WI6 leader. Within a few months, I was leading WI5/6 myself, mostly due to the consistent and frequent exposure to ice at that grade (though I do live in Canmore...) Now I find that even one day of proper alpine-mixed with really good climbers teaches me more than I could ever learn by trying to advance myself at a crag.<br /><br />Get out there lots, practice often, know your limits, climb with someone who'll allow you to push your limits. Keep in mind that an epic day climbing big lines isn't always the best way to progress.Rafalhttp://blog.rafalandronowski.com/noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-63119786281734129062012-02-29T09:56:00.978-08:002012-02-29T09:56:00.978-08:00Good catch Brad. I was testing a pair of the new ...Good catch Brad. I was testing a pair of the new Sabers. Note there are no botts on them so I can easily check every pitch for cracks. Climb was Professors. Easy to walk off every pitch if it is required.<br /><br />I used them on one day of climbing out of 5 this trip. As the reports of failed stainless crampons keep coming in here @ CT. Just trying to get a feel for the extent of the problem myself without actually dying.Danehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08300760603627210620noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-16964178440594666372012-02-29T09:48:28.726-08:002012-02-29T09:48:28.726-08:00Dane,
Great article - thanks. In the photo, loo...Dane, <br /><br />Great article - thanks. In the photo, looks like you're climbing in Stainless steel B.D. crampons. Interesting, given your recent posts....<br /><br />Brad.Bradnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-50296004203365949442012-02-29T08:43:53.487-08:002012-02-29T08:43:53.487-08:00Seems everyone wants to fixate on pull ups. One c...Seems everyone wants to fixate on pull ups. One can never been too light, too strong or too beautiful :)<br /><br />But that said I'll take skill and technique any day over brute strength.<br /><br />In the grand scheme of things how many pull ups you can do means little.Danehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08300760603627210620noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-83920836854284748962012-02-29T08:17:48.946-08:002012-02-29T08:17:48.946-08:00Hey Dane,
Thanks for the article. As a newbie try...Hey Dane,<br /><br />Thanks for the article. As a newbie trying to learn the trade, a lot of what you said ring true. It's easy to get in over your head and get into dangerous situations, and reading this is a good reminder for me to always keep things in perspective and to be honest with myself about my abilities. Always time to learn more and practice more.<br /><br />Awesome pics and TR too. Looks like a great time and I'm glad you're getting back out there! Canmore looks amazing; I think I know where my next trip is going to be.Aaronhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10650552975947650888noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-10427474469097123042012-02-29T04:37:50.447-08:002012-02-29T04:37:50.447-08:00Doing loads of pull ups certainly isn't hurtin...Doing loads of pull ups certainly isn't hurting a guy like Markus Bendler and we all know, how good of an ice climber he is :).Dersunoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-35869030649522076522012-02-28T23:21:12.896-08:002012-02-28T23:21:12.896-08:00Thanks Ian, Here is a link to a TR of sorts:
http...Thanks Ian, Here is a link to a TR of sorts:<br /><br />http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1059671/Re_why_you_should_go_to_Canada#Post1059671Danehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08300760603627210620noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-1126721572563724302012-02-28T21:16:17.701-08:002012-02-28T21:16:17.701-08:00Dane, I'm stoked that you're out! Your pic...Dane, I'm stoked that you're out! Your pictures are of exactly where we're headed tomorrow, I'm bummed I missed you by a week. <br /><br />By the way, fitness always helps never hurts. On the bright side gaining weight will be a positive for you.Ianhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10023513087034699039noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-63138661992373344762012-02-28T16:48:41.168-08:002012-02-28T16:48:41.168-08:00hey dane,
99% a whole-hearted 'hell yeah!'...hey dane,<br /><br />99% a whole-hearted 'hell yeah!' in agreement.<br /><br />only contention is about pull ups: they do help, lots.<br />training is always the equal to gear. once you get those crampons properly fitted the training takes over - both on the ice of course, but also elsewhere for the 90% of time you cant be on the ice.<br /><br />pull ups?<br />anyone who can do 15 pull ups almost undoubtably has a good condition over all.<br />its not about strength, its about integrity, focus and application.<br />its not all thats needed, but theres a lot to be gained from upper body strength, endurance and integration.<br /><br />personally id rather older gear and better condition than the latest stuff and no condition.<br />i can buy the gear, but i have to develop the better condition, theres no short cut.<br /><br />the good climber refines both i believe.eddy icenoreply@blogger.com