tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post1786286651783085729..comments2024-03-16T10:11:19.302-07:00Comments on Cold Thistle: Be attentive when placing ice screws!Danehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08300760603627210620noreply@blogger.comBlogger14125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-82739095823787353732011-12-13T14:22:41.814-08:002011-12-13T14:22:41.814-08:00I can send you the original article about the ice ...I can send you the original article about the ice screw accident.Andreahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01998186528771795899noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-26347694956164660912011-10-11T15:44:26.694-07:002011-10-11T15:44:26.694-07:00Wait a minute....are people falling while ice clim...Wait a minute....are people falling while ice climbing now?? I thought that was verboten. Just kidding.brian p. harderhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03223537483494451530noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-85834643105253307212011-02-08T14:02:02.879-08:002011-02-08T14:02:02.879-08:00Neil I would..you can send it here.
rdburns@cnw.c...Neil I would..you can send it here.<br /><br />rdburns@cnw.com<br /><br />I'll post it asap. thanks!Danehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08300760603627210620noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-35236947837404046672011-02-08T13:55:33.506-08:002011-02-08T13:55:33.506-08:00Hi Dane,
If you would like a full translation of ...Hi Dane,<br /><br />If you would like a full translation of the original artical let me know.<br /><br />Yours,<br /><br />Neil Newton TaylorNeil Newton Taylorhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05513825029277479395noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-9691794507169395142011-01-22T07:34:00.382-08:002011-01-22T07:34:00.382-08:00So, did the rope sheath cut on the hanger part of ...So, did the rope sheath cut on the hanger part of the ice screw that is exposed when the knob is open or on the crank knob itself? This is best seen in the photo with the purple BEAL 7.8 rope.<br /><br />Chad from CT.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-86311092018200552042011-01-20T07:55:01.104-08:002011-01-20T07:55:01.104-08:00My bad, I made a mistake while posting. Here is th...My bad, I made a mistake while posting. Here is the message I wanted to leave. <br />Have a good day.<br /><br />While were splitting hairs,<br />If you fall on a correctly placed Grivel helix, and your rope catches the knob, wouldn’t the torsion applied to the screw be transferred to the ice, thus weakening or breaking it?<br />Add the potential of the rope being released from the knob and shock loading an elongated alpine draw after the above situation. Terrible situation eh?<br /><br />Food for thoughts while were trying to find out about the un-findable…<br /><br />Louis-AlexisAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-78475594907784291272011-01-20T06:30:49.095-08:002011-01-20T06:30:49.095-08:00Louis-Alexis
"If?" :) Now you are ju...Louis-Alexis<br /><br />"If?" :) Now you are just trying to scare me! I am a big believer in not falling on ice.Danehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08300760603627210620noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-61918123845201604782011-01-20T06:24:19.355-08:002011-01-20T06:24:19.355-08:00Hi Dane,
If you fall on a grivel helix placed kno...Hi Dane, <br />If you fall on a grivel helix placed knob up, and your rope catches the knob, wouldn't the torsion applied break the ice around the said screw? Thus once again reducing holding strengh? Add the extra shock, if it happens, of the rope sliding off the knob and being cought by an elongated alpine draw and that sounds pretty bab. <br />Food for thoughts while were splitting hairs...<br /><br />Louis-AlexisAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-343201709599486142011-01-19T22:27:11.827-08:002011-01-19T22:27:11.827-08:00Peter,
"Known issue, and specifically highlig...Peter,<br />"Known issue, and specifically highlighted in the instructions for BD"<br /><br />Yes known. But note it was a BD inner office memo not mine. This was the first time an accident was investigated that the knob was almost the deciding factor in a fall. <br /><br />Never hurts to get a reminder or be made aware of it.<br /><br />I also don't believe all fixed knobs are the same, which one might think with only a quick read of the English synopsis.Danehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08300760603627210620noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-26656588086615756342011-01-19T21:16:28.049-08:002011-01-19T21:16:28.049-08:00Known issue, and specifically highlighted in the i...Known issue, and specifically highlighted in the instructions for BD express screws. See:<br />http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/uploads/black-diamond/files/MM5820_D_Ice_Pro_InstSheetWEB.pdf<br /><br />Specifically the paragraph:<br />"""<br />When placing the Express Ice Screw, flip the handle out after the<br />screw is started and stable, then turn the hanger in a clockwise<br />direction using the handle. ALWAYS flip the handle to the closed<br />position after placing the screw.<br />"""Peter Valchevnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-26771530339784192752011-01-19T19:43:51.834-08:002011-01-19T19:43:51.834-08:00FWIW.... "the climber fell 12m without ice c...FWIW.... "the climber fell 12m without ice contact or injury".<br /><br />35+ foot fall "without ice contact or injury" sounds like vertical ice to me. But I'll check into it.Danehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08300760603627210620noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-74679066146894414732011-01-19T19:01:02.553-08:002011-01-19T19:01:02.553-08:00Hi Oscar, I don't think it is very likely on t...Hi Oscar, I don't think it is very likely on the Helix. Sure it is possible. I've only seen one real fall on ice but it was a big one and on dbl ropes. We were using Helix but the ice was vertical so no issues on hanging up the rope. PC?..earlier than I have been on it in a few years but the ice was so cold, snowed hard all day and the avi danger so high it pretty much became a slug fest. Fun but more hard fun than real fun :) Cold hands just aren't a pleasure!<br /><br />Larry? I agree it is obviously going to be an issue of just how steep the ice is as to the potential on hanging a rope. I can't read German and the English synopsis doesn't mention it, sorry. I'll see if I can get that info though and post it.Danehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08300760603627210620noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-48502518928505515082011-01-19T16:36:54.131-08:002011-01-19T16:36:54.131-08:00Dane,
It really does not come as a suprise that c...Dane,<br /><br />It really does not come as a suprise that catching the rope on a knob of any ice screw could be potentially dangerous to a rope or any item that catches on to the knob. Since I only use BD screws, I always push the knob back down, after placing the screw, unless I forget because I'm too pumped or gripped and I forget because I am trying to move on quickly.<br /><br />I'm curious as to the angle of the ice where the fall occurred? It would appear, the steeper the ice, the less chance your rope, clothing, etc., would hook or catch the knob.<br /><br />Thanks for sharing the information.<br /><br />LarryAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-58737701980581141142011-01-19T15:47:55.885-08:002011-01-19T15:47:55.885-08:00Watch out for the Omega screws with a fixed knob. ...Watch out for the Omega screws with a fixed knob. Like the old BD Turbo Express but the knob always sticks out and doesn't fold. I can totally see these knobs catch the rope...<br /><br />Great important blog post... Any further thoughts on the rope catching behind the knob lever on the Grivels? You mention it in your post, but seem to make no big deal of it...<br /><br />Also, how was Polar Circus this year?Unknownhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10500981569115916225noreply@blogger.com