tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post3689145042025012468..comments2024-03-16T10:11:19.302-07:00Comments on Cold Thistle: Scarpa Phantom Guide vs the La Sportiva BaturaDanehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08300760603627210620noreply@blogger.comBlogger30125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-60467739542677165512017-01-11T01:29:36.434-08:002017-01-11T01:29:36.434-08:00Hi,
I’m from low land of Mumbai and go for Himala...Hi,<br /><br />I’m from low land of Mumbai and go for Himalayan Expedition once a year. Till now I had rented mountaineering shoes from locals shops or agency in Himalaya. But those are generally plastic and never fit good. So this time as I’m planning to go for 7000M peak, I am thinking to buy a new shoes with good thermal insulation and light in weight.<br /><br />I went through various models like Batura 2.0 GTX, Phantom Guide, Phantom 6000 etc. But couldn’t figure out which shoes to buy. On your blog, coldthistle.blogspot.com, I found good information, hence I’m writing to you. Please suggest me a good shoes.<br /><br />Key points-<br /> No vertical and super technical climbs<br /> Climbs up to 70-75° ice wall<br /> Altitude up to 7000 m<br /> Maximum days in expedition- 15 days<br /> Lightweight<br /> Good thermal insulation<br /><br /><br />P.s. Being from tropical region, we never get opportunity to practice on ice walls. So shoes must be light weight and with good thermal insulation. But on the other hand, as I go to the ice climbing only once a year, I’m not interested to invest a big amount.<br />Bhushan Shethttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05853337254800774044noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-23654811294640857512015-09-22T21:26:25.024-07:002015-09-22T21:26:25.024-07:00Thanks a lot, I'm looking for the right boot a...Thanks a lot, I'm looking for the right boot and this is been very helpfull. <br />The mountains in Colombia or specially the Andes, in this case, are temperate glaciers, but altitud are a concern when cold matters a lot. For this reason I guess I will try the TRANGO for Colombia and will borrow some doble boots for Ecuador, Cotopaxi ( Don't think for the last eruption) and Chimborazo in this case. <br /><br />Sorry for my english. <br /><br />Cheers!Crested Outdoorshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01085215205408440275noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-54110462226297146192015-01-26T11:40:48.312-08:002015-01-26T11:40:48.312-08:00That combo will work fine. Yes I used the same co...That combo will work fine. Yes I used the same combo for a season.Danehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08300760603627210620noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-46249492164778947402015-01-25T20:06:39.481-08:002015-01-25T20:06:39.481-08:00Hi dane! I am thinking about buying the Scarpa Pha...Hi dane! I am thinking about buying the Scarpa Phantom Guide as my next boot for ice climbing. Do you know if the Grivel g14s will fit on the Phantom Guides? Any experiences with this combo?<br />Thanks<br />MarcoAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-53339737149593349842014-11-08T20:15:13.951-08:002014-11-08T20:15:13.951-08:006000m any where I'd want a double. But look a...6000m any where I'd want a double. But look at the Scarpa 6000 as well as the Spantik. Buy what fits the best.Danehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08300760603627210620noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-80163243610471984432014-11-08T19:58:13.502-08:002014-11-08T19:58:13.502-08:00Hi Dane,
Thanks for the blog. We are climbing gang...Hi Dane,<br />Thanks for the blog. We are climbing gangchenpo in the himalayas In mid April of 2015. I am trying to determine the correct boots for our trip. Gangchenpo is slightly above 6000 meters. Do you think the la Sportiva Batura's will suffice or would you go with the Spantik? <br />Kat Heldmanhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14476715603669600952noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-30838500308063590082014-04-11T12:04:20.404-07:002014-04-11T12:04:20.404-07:00Hi Ryan, 45.5 or a 46 should fit. I use a 45 but y...Hi Ryan, 45.5 or a 46 should fit. I use a 45 but you really need to try them on. Fit will likely be obvious. I don't size up and use thin socks.Danehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08300760603627210620noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-19856509805199493802014-04-10T16:30:49.329-07:002014-04-10T16:30:49.329-07:00Dane, I wear a size 12 as well. Thinking about pic...Dane, I wear a size 12 as well. Thinking about picking up a pair of the p.guides. Do the p.guides run true to size? Do you have plenty of room or would you recommend sizing up a half size? I usually wear a thin liner sock and a pair of the smart wool mountaineering socks. Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11554726074103267807noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-7857106488140399012013-11-17T11:59:41.424-08:002013-11-17T11:59:41.424-08:00Montana and Alberta? You'll want the Phantom G...Montana and Alberta? You'll want the Phantom Guide. Rebel Ultra is just barely warm enough with good circualtion/feet. As we age you loose both over time. Rebel GTX isn't warm enough for that environment. Danehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08300760603627210620noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-87325889789236024412013-11-17T05:34:54.048-08:002013-11-17T05:34:54.048-08:00Dane...
Curious. I am retiring my scarpa Freny...Dane...<br />Curious. I am retiring my scarpa Freny's this year in favor of something warmer. Not sure if the 7 year old boots or the aging climber are the reason but its just the last couple of years I've noticed cold feet. Looking at the rebel GTX due to the excellent weight. Could use my supergaiters when its cold. or the phantom guide. Ice climbing in montana and Alberta (and places far afield). <br />SteveUnknownhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13644161837612529882noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-46916480297686263962013-01-13T08:46:44.408-08:002013-01-13T08:46:44.408-08:00Scarpa will generally fit a wider foot. Phantom ...Scarpa will generally fit a wider foot. Phantom Guide would be a good bet.Danehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08300760603627210620noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-51014798672557581352013-01-13T02:30:56.317-08:002013-01-13T02:30:56.317-08:00Hi Dane, I have been following the blog for a whil...Hi Dane, I have been following the blog for a while now and love it, thanks heaps. <br /><br />I live in New Zealand and am in the market for a new alpine boot, the Nepal EVO is readily availbale as is the Scarpa Mt Blanc, however both are too narrow for me. <br /><br />The old Batura fits me well width wise, would the Scarpa Phantom Ultra or Guide fit as well? You say they are a similar fit to the Batura, is this true in the toe box width? Also do you have any suggestions for wider fitting boots with similar warmth to the Batura or the Nepal?<br /><br />Thanks heaps.Jameshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11878432177412322031noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-37480287542123424052013-01-09T18:53:40.387-08:002013-01-09T18:53:40.387-08:00Dane, not sure whether this info belongs here or o...Dane, not sure whether this info belongs here or on the Do Your Crampins Fit? string, but I have recently found that DMM Terminator/Gladiator toe bails, retro-fitted onto Grivel crampons, fit well on the narrow toe profile of the Scarpa Phantom Guide. I found that my Terminators went onto the Phantoms perfectly, so I ordered spare bails from Lisa Gnade at DMM Excalibur in Sandy, Utah (xcalibur@mindspring.com). When fitting them to my Grivels, I had to enlarge the holes in the crampons just slightly with a chainsaw file, but then the bails fit nicely. Now there is very little gap (tiny) on either side of the toe and the bail sits in the toe groove right where it's supposed to be. Just wanted to pass on the beta regarding proper crampon fitment for this boot and probably most any other that has the same narrow toe profile. DMM Excalibur has bails in stock at a pretty low price and Lisa is great at responding quickly.<br />Best Regards and Haspy Climbing!<br />KenAnonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07627333604964230148noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-57089478252999925062013-01-07T20:04:13.343-08:002013-01-07T20:04:13.343-08:00Any time. Lots of info here on the Ultra. Try th...Any time. Lots of info here on the Ultra. Try the search function to get it all. I've used a lot of different boots. The Ultra is my favorite single for reasonable temps to date. Much more so than the Guide. But that is also really spliting hairs. Guide is a good boot.Danehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08300760603627210620noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-27907735964447937202013-01-07T19:15:18.351-08:002013-01-07T19:15:18.351-08:00Thanks for the feedback. I also noticed the praise...Thanks for the feedback. I also noticed the praise you gave the Phantom Ultras. How did you get those? They only seem to be sold outside of North America. And how do they stack up against the Guide? Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00067628468010851303noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-16135344454538922112012-12-23T14:00:54.329-08:002012-12-23T14:00:54.329-08:00My suggestion is always, always buy the boot that ...My suggestion is always, always buy the boot that fits first, then fine a crampon that will work with the boot.<br /><br />I use Petzl crampons on my 45 Scarpas and they fit fine with minor tweaking on the fron bails. <br /><br />All the brands of crampons are notoriously ill fitting imo these days given the wrong combos of crmapon and boot. But from what I have seen you can make any of them work on all but the tiniest boots.Danehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08300760603627210620noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-14362985653352267112012-12-23T13:51:41.285-08:002012-12-23T13:51:41.285-08:00Hey Dane,
Great and very descriptive review. I&#...Hey Dane, <br /><br />Great and very descriptive review. I'm looking into getting the guides and I went to the store and got my size. I like the way they fit, but I am still on edge because I am having concerns about the crampon fit for the guide. Can you give me an opinion on it? It is a deal breaker? I am planning to buy a pair of crampons along with the boot, but obviously I want to crampons to fit well. No just "good enough" Any thoughts would be great. Thanks!Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00067628468010851303noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-14597711518536935732012-02-17T09:04:09.646-08:002012-02-17T09:04:09.646-08:00Awesome blog!
La Sportiva used to be about qualit...Awesome blog!<br /><br />La Sportiva used to be about quality. These days it's not. Their Goretex-shoes leak worse than sandals (trango trek evo), just unbelievable and they are not helpful in solving these problems. It's a shame really because they still make shoes with very good fit but for me they are unusable.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-91748876783695919972011-11-28T23:22:22.767-08:002011-11-28T23:22:22.767-08:00hey Dane,
I am thinking about buying the old ...hey Dane, <br /> I am thinking about buying the old phantom lite boots from a friend can you tell me anything about the differences between them and the phantom guide...fit, warmth, performance etc... id appreciate it!njfhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12674873911994947211noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-35957764207074875812011-06-13T12:14:10.559-07:002011-06-13T12:14:10.559-07:00Nepal and the Mt Blanc are very similar boots. Th...Nepal and the Mt Blanc are very similar boots. The fit is different which is why I suggest try both if you are looking for a warm, more traditional leather boot.<br /><br />I don't have any experience with the Scarpa Jorasses Pro, sorry. <br /><br />But I suspect it is better compared to the Trango Extreme Series from La Sportiva.Danehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08300760603627210620noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-90968677107075057852011-06-13T11:49:50.579-07:002011-06-13T11:49:50.579-07:00Hey, Dane!
I see you recommend the La Sportiva Ne...Hey, Dane!<br /><br />I see you recommend the La Sportiva Nepal Evo and the Scarpa Mt Blanc in the same paragraph. Would you say that they are each others' closest match? How does the Scarpa Jorasses Pro compare? (I know it is not leather, but other than that... sole stiffness, ankle stiffness, warmth, etc.)<br /><br />I'm looking for a boot for -15 C ice cragging, through mountaineering (glacier walking and steeper rock/snow/ice) in -10 C through to +10 C, and also good enough for approaches up to about 15 km. From what I've gathered, the LS Nepal Evo would be a good choice, but I've had trouble with LS fit, so I'm looking at Scarpas instead.Gibsonhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09159570029667824294noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-90220611373354742802011-02-14T08:01:35.428-08:002011-02-14T08:01:35.428-08:00I wear a 45 Batura and a 45 Guide.
They seem very ...I wear a 45 Batura and a 45 Guide.<br />They seem very close in size to me.Danehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08300760603627210620noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-25832531777224688102011-02-14T01:40:29.361-08:002011-02-14T01:40:29.361-08:00Hey,
in your foot, is Batura 45 similar size in P...Hey,<br /><br />in your foot, is Batura 45 similar size in Phantom Guide?<br /><br />Maybe, Phantom Guide is bigger thant Batura in the same size???<br /><br />Thanks.<br />Jose.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-58009283665713614242011-01-03T23:21:20.646-08:002011-01-03T23:21:20.646-08:00Federico,
Nepal is an exceptionally good boot I th...Federico,<br />Nepal is an exceptionally good boot I think. Guide is good as well. The Ultra even better.<br /><br />best<br />DaneDanehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08300760603627210620noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-18365825116841060962011-01-03T09:59:48.502-08:002011-01-03T09:59:48.502-08:00Really interested this blog, and especially this a...Really interested this blog, and especially this article regarding the phantom guide, that I think it is the best now around the market..<br />So far I used Nepal Extreme (leather) and it is really indestructible and enough warm in my opinion.<br />Ciao and good climbs!<br /><br />federicoFederico Oggionihttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06489262081235048015noreply@blogger.com