tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post2937868935103935893..comments2024-03-16T10:11:19.302-07:00Comments on Cold Thistle: Double bootsDanehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08300760603627210620noreply@blogger.comBlogger49125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-15500309037907868032021-11-22T10:34:22.929-08:002021-11-22T10:34:22.929-08:00I would caution anyone from ever using Intuition l...I would caution anyone from ever using Intuition liners in a cllimbing boot. There are better alternatives now. Palua for one that are less likely to abrade your feet like the technology of a ski boot or plastic boot type liner.<br />Danehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08300760603627210620noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-2384943739167251792021-11-22T02:10:24.200-08:002021-11-22T02:10:24.200-08:00Update on my above comment: I used the above descr...Update on my above comment: I used the above described combination (Scarpa Omega Intuition line in Spantik) on Elbrus North route and it worked OK but owing to my pervious observation that the liner didn't come to the top of the boot I was left with blisters on both shins :-(<br />Won't be doing that again. For that kind of trip, if you're really bother by weight on your feet, aluminum crampons may be a better way to go.<br />Nearly lost a Spantik on that trip. There are gofer holes which I think then get washed out by water and some are quite big and deep. When one of my boots fell off my pack it went straight in one of these holes and couldn't be reached even laying on the ground with the full length of my arm down the hole! Fortunately managed to hook it out with a trekking pole lolChrishttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04611204505466727646noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-35306150916980338092019-07-08T05:57:13.188-07:002019-07-08T05:57:13.188-07:00I have some barely used Scarpa Omegas and some bar...I have some barely used Scarpa Omegas and some barely used Spantiks. The weight weenie in me wants to buy the G2SM but actually if I put the Intuition liner from the Omega in the Spantik it fits well, is comfortable and in an EU47 drops the Spantik from 1512g/boot to 1337g - I think I will only save another 100g per boot with the G2 (not counting that I wouldn't need separate gaiters with the G2).<br />Do you see any reason not to use the Omega Intuition liner in the Spantik? Just wearing them around the yard they don't seem any less warm with the light weight Intuition liner. Only think I notice is that the tongue of the inner doesn't come above the top of the outer boot like it does with the original Spantik liner but it doesn't seem any more sloppy or less comfortable.<br />Any comments or advice?Chrishttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04611204505466727646noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-66700761663217540122017-07-07T10:06:45.454-07:002017-07-07T10:06:45.454-07:00Hi Dane,
I am heading to Aconcagua this Dec 2017, ...Hi Dane,<br />I am heading to Aconcagua this Dec 2017, and wondering which plastics double boot has wider toe box, Koflach Artics Expe OR Scarpa Inverno? Currently I am use 11/11.5 EE running shoes. <br /><br />Also I plan to wear smart wool socks and silk liner, any better suggestions?<br /><br />Thanks so much,<br />Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09423212313414141071noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-54940248326703650442017-02-12T10:02:32.847-08:002017-02-12T10:02:32.847-08:00Big trip, big mountain. I'd buy a new pair of...Big trip, big mountain. I'd buy a new pair of modern dbl boots :)Danehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08300760603627210620noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-79965635416181483842017-02-11T21:51:03.392-08:002017-02-11T21:51:03.392-08:00I am looking to do Alpamyo in the summer and am to...I am looking to do Alpamyo in the summer and am torn between my Phantom Tech or my old school Scarpa Omega. The liner is original and I considered trading it out for the Spantic liner or Baruntse. What are your thoughts on either of these choices?Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/18117315873171855808noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-48020102291195967722016-08-17T18:15:21.775-07:002016-08-17T18:15:21.775-07:00yes..some more than others. Most are not leather ...yes..some more than others. Most are not leather but fabric. Nepal is leather. But now you are talking single boots not doubles with a foam liner which would seem to give your ankle (and mine) more options. A modern double boot will give you more options...for fit.Danehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08300760603627210620noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-6411943983061532112016-08-17T18:09:28.849-07:002016-08-17T18:09:28.849-07:00Can the newer fabric or hybrid leather boots like ...Can the newer fabric or hybrid leather boots like the LS Nepal Cube GTX be punched or stretched? Rando Richardhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07896009529865465588noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-24215996825665093822016-08-17T11:58:40.752-07:002016-08-17T11:58:40.752-07:00I would seldom if never suggest going to plastics ...I would seldom if never suggest going to plastics these days no matter how bad your injury was/is. Most dbl boots have a better than Intuition liner now. My take is the Intuition liner is also obsolete. Laces aren't needed on the inner. I sure don't use them in my climbing or ski boots. Yes plastic is moldable but I suspect you would have better luck with the newer fabric boots to fit around your injury and save yourself a bunch of weight.Danehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08300760603627210620noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-7841036371692515772016-08-17T10:39:26.657-07:002016-08-17T10:39:26.657-07:00Hello Dane,
Thanks for the post and information....Hello Dane, <br /><br />Thanks for the post and information.<br /><br />I have one foot that was injured many years ago ice climbing and consequently, it is problematic getting a good fit — my ankle bone projects out a lot, almost touching the shell of mountaineering boots w/o a liner in place, rubbing and causing grief (taping the ankle does nothing).<br /><br />Questions:<br />1. I can get Intuition liners at wholesale, so I am inclined to use this brand inside an old Kastinger double boot shell. If I go with that brand, is there a preferred model for a mountaineering boot? <br />2. Is having a lace up on the liner boot important?<br />3. Are most plastic mountaineering boot shells heat moldable, like AT ski boots?<br /><br />Thanks in advance for your comments.Rando Richardhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07896009529865465588noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-10976262654060021832016-02-02T12:48:23.983-08:002016-02-02T12:48:23.983-08:00Sorry no clue on the Bestard's. But I wouldn&...Sorry no clue on the Bestard's. But I wouldn't buy a boot I couldn't try on first.Danehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08300760603627210620noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-18589989506666772662016-02-02T04:07:35.616-08:002016-02-02T04:07:35.616-08:00Dane,
Great article thank you for sharing! I don...Dane, <br />Great article thank you for sharing! I don't have much experience with mountaineering boots. I've been looking for something for general mountaineering that can also be used occasionally for ice climbing. I have read many reviews on some of the boots you displayed here, but I am very intrigued by Bestard boots, and I cannot find any reviews. Specifically the Top extreme lite(double boot) and the Fitzroy. The Top Extreme lite seems to be what you are describing here as a modern, lightweight, double boot, right around that target weight. If you have an opinion on these boots I'd love to hear it. Also, I like the idea of being able to remove the liner for drying, and the extra warmth as I have problems with circulation in my feet, however I don't do many overnights in the winter. So how important should this feature be for me?<br />Thanks for your input!<br /><br />John SJohn Shttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15826552874390083489noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-65540869959499552972016-02-01T19:23:18.832-08:002016-02-01T19:23:18.832-08:00Sigh...not what I wanted to hear, but needed to kn...Sigh...not what I wanted to hear, but needed to know! Thanks for the input. My husband has Spantiks and loves them, but I know you prefer the Baruntse so I will hopefully check them both out with the desire to heat mold the liners. Thanks again for the input!Stephaniehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02104739193594287861noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-13267992949168774212016-02-01T15:07:36.550-08:002016-02-01T15:07:36.550-08:00Thanks Stephanie,
Koflachs? Not likely what you ...Thanks Stephanie,<br /><br />Koflachs? Not likely what you want to hear. If the Koflachs are old enough to have the liners dissolved I'd be looking at new boots. The plastic/nylon Koflach shelsl are known to degrade (UV) over time and then crack. I think the Intuition liner is too stiff and rough on your feet having used it. Palua Barunste liner is a good alternative. But I wouldn't go to Denali with well worn Koflachs.......too much risk.<br />Danehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08300760603627210620noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-30491765605668188962016-02-01T15:01:41.457-08:002016-02-01T15:01:41.457-08:00Love reading your blog articles! We are headed to ...Love reading your blog articles! We are headed to Denali this June, and I'm trying to figure out what to do with my boot system. I have the Koflach Arctis Expe, but the liners have dissolved. I've read that the Intuition liners are great but are stiff at the shin. I read somewhere(maybe a comment of yours on a forum?) about the option of buying "replacement" Baruntse liners and using them instead. Which would you suggest? I've used the Koflachs comfortably for years on lower mountains (Rainier and friends) but this will be my first foray into high altitude climbing. Thanks!!Stephaniehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02104739193594287861noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-41837277593877550482014-05-11T17:51:34.372-07:002014-05-11T17:51:34.372-07:00Kolflach sizes run true to American sizes and the ...Kolflach sizes run true to American sizes and the UK sizes marked...out of the country no clue, sorry. Hello Argentina!! Las<br /> Lenas this summer ? :-)<br />Danehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08300760603627210620noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-36280226883503923092014-05-11T15:22:39.089-07:002014-05-11T15:22:39.089-07:00Hi, Dane.
Really exelents reviews here. Thanks!
...Hi, Dane.<br /> Really exelents reviews here. Thanks!<br /> Do you know if the sizing is the same for all the new koflachs boots? You say that you can wear a pair of Guardians or Artics with the Intuiton linner and it will fit OK anyway?<br /> Greetings from Argentina!Robertonoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-72667397483708684262014-01-10T04:13:01.936-08:002014-01-10T04:13:01.936-08:00Good review of the sad situation,I am an ex-pat li...Good review of the sad situation,I am an ex-pat living in Italy and have climbed everything available in Europe.<br />My crampons are old (1984)Grivel, bolted, rigid, automatic clamping, welded and re-welded and re-tempered. I have tried almost every brand and have tossed everything but the old heavy Grivels. A local machine shop has made me a new pair of tempered (one piece, rigid) crampons -basically a copy of the Grivels, with more aggressive front points and turned rear teeth to hold better in hard snow.<br />I have spent a fortune in boots, my old Koflak also 1984 (about 99% guardian)are still my favorite for tough going. The new Swiss, no longer Austrian, Koflak will NOT provide spare parts, so I have replaced the upper cuffs with 3mm teflon. I had a custom boot maker here in Italy make new inner boots, 1mm teflon sole,a combination of leather, foam and heavy silk inner lining, plus a velcro rim to prevent the socks from sliding down.<br />Good point on the gaiters, I have also modified two pair of gaiters, maintaining the gortex fronts with a fine mesh rear and an outside zipper instead of the rear zipper. Another combination I like for steep, deep snow is a pair of Descent ski pants with both top and bottom zippers with the top open and a gaiter strap between the boot and crampons holding the pants down to form a good seal.<br />Koflak boots are great for small volume and small footprint for my 45's, and my new liners have held up well on Mont Blanc and Eiger in all weather. I have re-soled the Koflak,s 4 times, but I have a problem buying new boots from a company that will not sell spare parts.<br />Integrated gaiters, this is something invented by someone who may have climbed but has never "lived" climbing. Dry is warm, damp is dead.<br />I am still living the idea of layers, and spare dry under shirts, socks, hat, gloves etc. Gloves, hat etc for climbing can be lighter than the same equipment for overnight or descent. I have changed undershirts in bad weather on Mont Blanc, warmed up quick and slept fine. Riccionoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-19470984935300385232013-05-16T05:04:50.496-07:002013-05-16T05:04:50.496-07:00Holly Toledoooo ...
Great article Dane.
Cheers !...Holly Toledoooo ...<br /><br />Great article Dane.<br /><br />Cheers ! Armadillonoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-52601773164299201312012-10-15T09:41:59.718-07:002012-10-15T09:41:59.718-07:00Too big of boot can be a problem. But try some mo...Too big of boot can be a problem. But try some mole skin first. Plastic boots take some time to get your feet, ankles and shins accustomed to the rough treatment. <br /><br />If you can wear them in comfort they make a perfect boot for Aconcaqua imo. If all else fails try a Palau inner boot heat molded to your yeet.Danehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08300760603627210620noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-55781010429171300722012-10-14T16:09:25.358-07:002012-10-14T16:09:25.358-07:00Hi Dane,
Great blog, and great to hear that you r...Hi Dane,<br /><br />Great blog, and great to hear that you recommend Koflach Guardian, seeing as I recently bought a pair for my trip to Aconcagua in Jan next year. However, seeing as it is my first encounter with plastic boots, I tested them out in Wales for two days on various ascents, and my ankles, feet and especially shins were in absolute agony for days after. Is this normal for plastic boots, and should I be doing something special to wear them in? I've definitely bought them big enough, as I was recommended buying a size bigger than normal - maybe this is the problem?<br /><br />Thanks,<br />Kirsten (Denmark)Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-43319323087206632552012-05-25T15:46:17.563-07:002012-05-25T15:46:17.563-07:00Dane,
I was in a shop in London today looking for...Dane,<br /><br />I was in a shop in London today looking for double layer mountaineering boots for an attack on Mustagata in China (+7500m). I wasn't having much luck, being female and all. Not many shops had the double layer boots and none had female sizes. Ok, it was London, I'll give you that, but this is where I live and am trying to get my kit locally. I will be in Seattle before I go on the expedition so I figure I might have better luck then. My feet are susceptible to the cold so I am keen to find some double layer boots. Can you recommend some for women that can be found in Seattle? You're my last hope obi-wan! JennyJennynoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-14936171516531016992012-04-16T20:19:50.294-07:002012-04-16T20:19:50.294-07:00Sorry Anon..no definative answers for you. But yo...Sorry Anon..no definative answers for you. But you or your shop can use a heat gun on specific parts of the inner boot to expand the foam and get a tighter fit.<br /><br />Just don't heat up the heel again and work on the forfront of the inner boot short of your toe box.Danehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08300760603627210620noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-37672936164862866272012-04-16T19:53:32.028-07:002012-04-16T19:53:32.028-07:00Dane,
I followed your advice in your other articl...Dane,<br /><br />I followed your advice in your other article about heat molding a pair of Baruntse boots, and everything worked like you said. My only concern is that with a 2-sock toe cap my inner boot almost feels too big as my foot can slide around some in the forefoot area (heal fits perfect). How much space do you want in the forefoot area to allow for circulation, and how much space is too much that will lead to blisters?Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6940163880772720830.post-58572306725472659132012-01-12T22:54:34.981-08:002012-01-12T22:54:34.981-08:00Otis...most any ski shop with a decent boot fitter...Otis...most any ski shop with a decent boot fitter can stretch and punch out the Baruntse or Spantik if they are careful.Danehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08300760603627210620noreply@blogger.com